Shows

Postelegant RTW and Men’s Fall 2019

Name: Postelegant
Main message: One of the six winners of the 2019 Tokyo Fashion Award, Yuya Nakata’s fledgling brand (established only two years ago) aims to make “timeless modern wear with the best materials and details.” For the brand’s first collection shown on the runway, it did just that. The silhouettes were classic and refined, including different cuts of long coats, tailored trousers and calf-length dresses. And while they were beautifully cut to move with the body, it was the fabrics that set them apart from simple basics. Wool blends in sky blue and red, ribbed knits in the perfect shade of medium gray, a fine, bone-colored twill, and a trio of cloths all in dusty pink all begged a second look.
The result: A newcomer on the Tokyo fashion scene, Nakata proved himself as one to watch with a collection that went beyond elegant to something new and undeniably modern.

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.</pRead More…

Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/fall-ready-to-wear-2019/tokyo/postelegant/review/

      

Read more

Cinoh RTW and Men’s Fall 2019

Name: Cinoh
Main message: Takayuki Chino has been heading his own brands for over a decade, but as one of the winners of the 2019 Tokyo Fashion Award, he staged a runway show for the first time this season. With it, he showed his audience just why Cinoh has reached levels of popularity that many Tokyo brands can only hope for, being carried by top retailers across Japan.
The designer showed a relaxed, slightly disheveled sophistication. A leopard print, plush fleece pantsuit and long, fringed straight skirts for women shared the runway with men’s suits that were reimagined with pullovers in the place of button-front jackets. Long satin dresses, pleather overalls, fuzzy knits and easy fit trousers were given a subtle injection of Nineties grunge when paired with oversized plaid jackets and shirts. The theme was also hinted at in the show’s soundtrack, which included an instrumental backing track of Nirvana’s 1991 hit “Smells Like Teen Spirit.”
The result: With equal parts elegance and comfort, it was a collection that will surely resonate with Tokyo’s fashion-forward youth, without alienating older consumers.

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.</pRead More…

Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/fall-ready-to-wear-2019/tokyo/cinoh/review/

      

Read more

Mistergentleman Men’s Fall 2019

Name: Mistergentleman
Main message: Always one of the bright spots during Tokyo Fashion Week, Takeshi Osumi and Yuichi Yoshii’s men’s brand mixed easy tailoring with streetwear, outdoor and women’s wear influences for fall. Models walked the grass-like carpeted runway in retro, relaxed snakeskin print suits paired with satin double-breasted shirts and neckerchiefs, or velvet pants with roomy overcoats. The more casual looks included dad jeans, hooded sweatshirts and duck canvas jackets, all in neutral shades of gray, brown, khaki and black, interspersed with pops of purple, green and orange.
Osumi and Yoshii played with proportions, shrinking trenches and puffer jackets into crop tops and styling them over wool coats and loose sweaters. Moto, letterman and toggle jackets were chopped up into bib-like pieces and layered over outerwear, while a series of coats and jackets were cut from two contrasting fabrics: olive corduroy and gray wool flannel, or plush fleece with the same snake print from earlier pieces. Subtle feminine touches came in the form of silk scarves worn as belts over coats, and a handful of equestrian print jackets and shifts. The brand also debuted its latest collaboration products, including quilted bags made with Outdoor Products and a black satin bomber designed

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.</pRead More…

Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/fall-ready-to-wear-2019/tokyo/mistergentleman/review/

      

Read more

The Reracs RTW and Men’s Fall 2019

Name: The Reracs
Main message: With her inaugural show during Tokyo Fashion Week, Naomi Kurahashi displayed just how to present classic pieces on a runway without boring the audience: make sure to have plenty of variety, use beautiful textiles, keep the pace quick, and employ inventive styling choices. The brand lived up to its profile, which says that it’s “backed by quality and practicality,” but proved that it has so much more to offer.
The collection was made up of variations on a pretty basic theme: straight-legged or relaxed, jogger-style trousers paired with V-neck sweaters or just about any kind of outerwear imaginable, all turned out in neutral tones of gray, black, navy, white and beige. But the superior construction and luxurious textiles elevated the collection beyond simple classics, with suiting material showing a drape resembling that of matte jersey, and a black pleather poncho turning more heads than it would have if it had been made from animal skin. The fabrics were so beautiful on their own that there was no need for flashy prints, but occasional flashes of Fair Isle, argyle or checked patterns kept things interesting.
The result: Kurahashi has been designing The Reracs for nearly a decade, but proved

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.</pRead More…

Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/fall-ready-to-wear-2019/tokyo/the-reracs/review/

      

Read more

Shiroma RTW Fall 2019

Name: Shiroma
Main message: Shiho Shiroma lucked out with unseasonably balmy weather for her outdoor fashion show, held right in the center of Shibuya, Tokyo’s most buzzing neighborhood. It was also a wise choice for a venue, as her clothes looked right at home in one of Japan’s fashion centers — although the logo-covered backdrop left much to be desired. She showed basics with a twist, mixed with less conventional pieces. Simple shift dresses were made interesting with structural belts and one-shoulder harnesses, some trimmed in frills. While overall the neutral-toned collection had a modern feminine feel, there were also ample military and athletic influences. Wide-leg olive pants and khaki trousers had snaps all down the outer leg, allowing them to be opened up so they billowed with movement, wool arm covers were reminiscent of skaters’ elbow guards, and bomber jackets were turned out in navy and mustard lace or cropped in burgundy satin with balloon sleeves. Ankle-length sweatshirt hoodies were splashed with botanical patterned embroidery and sequins, and cotton twill tanks, dresses and trenchcoats had overlays on one half of a gossamer-thin, sheer tech fabric.
The result: Just the right amount of asymmetry, mixed influences and contrasting textures made for an

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.</pRead More…

Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/fall-ready-to-wear-2019/tokyo/shiroma/review/

      

Read more

Keisukeyoshida RTW Fall 2019

Name: Keisukeyoshida
Main message: What do you get when you mix sharp tailoring and a wide range of textures with subtle bondage influences? Keisuke Yoshida’s latest offering, which was shown on a slick red runway with stairs in the center and models all with bandaged heads. A short suit with an oversize, double-breasted jacket was worn over pleather leggings punctuated with cutouts and buckles, while slinky dresses in headline printed mesh or lamé jersey were gathered all over for a balance of sexy and conservative.
There were structural elements as well, with tails of coats clipped to the backs of collars to create a vague origami effect, and sleeves that were either ballooned and extra long or topped with boned shoulder plates rivaling a football player’s padding. High-wasted pants with rows of rope fastened with toggles were paired with satin blouses trimmed in exaggerated Western-inspired yokes.
The result: Yoshida’s collection was just fantastical enough to find itself at home on the streets of Tokyo, without taking itself too seriously.

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.</pRead More…

Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/fall-ready-to-wear-2019/tokyo/keisukeyoshida/review/

      

Read more

Hyke RTW Fall 2019

Name: Hyke
Main message: Yukiko Ode and Hideaki Yoshihara reimagined classic military pieces for fall, rendered in oversize proportions and tech fabrics. Voluminous toggle and shawl-collar coats in Army green and skirts made of swinging fringe shared the runway with structured jersey dresses that were striking in their simplicity. The designers also showed their latest collaboration items: eyewear by Julius Tart Optical, tote bags by Chacoli, wedges by Beautiful Shoes, and puffer jackets, long down coats and rain jackets by The North Face.
Ode and Yoshihara showed their skills with sumptuous outerwear that was both cozy and elegant, as well as beautifully draped dresses and asymmetric knits that came alive with movement. Their textures were equally rich, ranging from corduroy and wool flannel to fur and technical fabrics.
The result: The collection had a clear point of view and beautifully constructed clothes, once again demonstrating why Hyke is one of the strongest brands in Japan at the moment.

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.</pRead More…

Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/fall-ready-to-wear-2019/tokyo/hyke/review/

      

Read more

Malamute RTW Fall 2019

Name: Malamute
Main message: For her second outing during Tokyo Fashion Week, Mari Odaka took inspiration from Tokyo’s changing landscape ahead of the 2020 Olympics, as well as from two films: Andrew Niccol’s 1997 “Gattaca” and Jim Jarmusch’s 2013 “Only Lovers Left Alive.”
Odaka created her own surreal landscape on the runway with large squares of gold Mylar illuminated by fluorescent tube lights, accompanied by a soundtrack of jarring noise. She deftly mixed contrasting textures, showing pleated chiffon trousers together with an unevenly knit scarf that resembled static on a TV, but in red and navy. A shimmering, open knit long skirt resembling a spider web glistening in the morning sun was paired with a cold shoulder black sweater with spots of ivory fringe. There were also pantsuits with relaxed, slit-ankle trousers in black on black floral brocade or pale gray suiting trimmed with tiny ruffles. An oversize grandpa sweater worn as a minidress and a red and black tracksuit with chevron detailing lent a retro vibe.
The result: The designer proved her fledgling brand to be one to watch with a strong collection of relaxed yet elegant pieces in interesting textures.

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.</pRead More…

Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/fall-ready-to-wear-2019/tokyo/malamute/review/

      

Read more

Noma T.D. RTW and Men’s Fall 2019

Name: Noma T.D.
Main message: Masako Noguchi and Takuma Sasaki have been designing their brand for more than a decade, but their latest collection was the first one they presented at Tokyo Fashion Week. First they showed a short film directed by Rinko Kawauchi with music by Hiroshi Fujiwara. Titled “Harmony,” it showed simple, everyday scenes at a family country house and the surrounding wilderness as winter changes to spring.
Next, a black curtain opened to reveal eight models in relaxed, outdoorsy Noma T.D. looks. A pajama-like set of flannel pants and a shirt in a big, bold check pattern was paired with a black fishing vest for men, while a gray, navy and dark green floral print satin dress peeked out from under a plush wool coat for women. There was also a blue tie-dyed sweatsuit, a shirt embroidered with large flowers, and a quilted black coat with striped satin sleeves in black and deep blue.
The result: The offering, while small, showed a balance between street-ready and outdoorsy pieces, making it well suited for the modern urbanite.

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.</pRead More…

Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/fall-ready-to-wear-2019/tokyo/noma/review/

      

Read more

Dressedundressed RTW Fall 2019

Name: Dressedundressed
Main message: Takeshi Kitazawa’s spring presentation was part runway show, part performance art, with models emerging on the runway in pairs before engaging in various interactions in front of a simple set: drinking a cup of water, swapping jackets, cutting open a feather pillow, or one presenting the other with a piece of paper on which was written “do something boring.” All this took place to a voiceover soundtrack of men describing their dreams, but the significance of it all was not immediately clear.
Kitazawa sent out tailored or wide-leg trousers with high waists together with tiny cropped tops and jackets. There were shirts with sheer chest panels, bandage tube tops, tailored coats, a leather biker jacket and trench, and suit jackets with key fobs safety pinned to them. Many looks were pantless, instead including only a pair of briefs or a bodysuit. As with most of Dressedundressed’s collections, everything was unisex and in neutral shades of black, white and beige. Half of the models wore black masks with silver eyelets to see through, which together with belts worn on wrists, gave the offering slight BDSM undertones.
The result: The clothes were well cut and there was some interesting proportion play, but the collection

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.</pRead More…

Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/fall-ready-to-wear-2019/tokyo/dressedundressed/review/

      

Read more

The Dallas RTW Fall 2019

Name: The Dallas
Main message: Fumie Tanaka’s modern take on classic style elements was foreshadowed by its venue: a French restaurant with mosaic tiled floors, arched doorways and Art Nouveau hanging on the walls. But when the lights went up, the opera changed to thumping bass and the models strutted around corners in looks that showed a deft mix of the traditional and the now. Long, flowing dresses in rich hues and floral prints shared the runway with leopard-print pantsuits with lace overlays, sheer, slinky knits and workwear-inspired jumpsuits. Tanaka expertly mixed print and texture, incorporating plush faux fur, ivory and black checked wool, sky blue chiffon, and metallic lamé. Track pants with lace side stripes and oversize proportions on basic jackets gave classic pieces an air of modern, streetwear cool.
The result: Tanaka turned out a solid, cohesive collection of versatile separates that meld femininity and a relaxed, street-ready sensibility.

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.</pRead More…

Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/fall-ready-to-wear-2019/tokyo/the-dallas/review/

      

Read more

Jenny Fax RTW Fall 2019

Name: Jenny Fax
Main message: Taiwanese designer Shueh Jen-Fang takes fragments of childhood memories and turns them into avant-garde collections. For her latest offering she put her stamp on an innocent picnic, with sweet, pastel lace dresses paired with candy-striped blouses. True to form, nothing was quite as it seemed, with acid-washed denim skorts that were so low-waisted they put on display the granny panties attached underneath. Plush balloon dresses had boning to create voluminous, sculptural shapes, while tweed tops were shrunken into tiny, frill-adorned bandeaus. The show closed with a vinyl puffer coat with a hood that zipped all the way up to create a cartoon-like character, and a white split cape that billowed behind like a pair of angel wings.
The result: The collection struck just the right chord between the bizarre and charmingly unique, a weirdly fun take on a fairy-tale-like dreamscape.

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.</pRead More…

Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/fall-ready-to-wear-2019/tokyo/jenny-fax/review/

      

Read more

Tory Sport RTW Fall 2019

“Everything’s wickable, breathable…we spent four years developing fabrics,” Tory Burch explained during a walk-through of her latest collection for her high-performance sportswear brand, Tory Sport. Burch added that through her recent collaboration with Soul Cycle (a seven-piece capsule which launched on March 6) she was most excited about hearing feedback from real athletes — from full marathon runners to yogis — who have been surprised and highly impressed by its functionality. A fall favorite (and best-selling) call out included a chevron printed legging and matching bra in oatmeal brown (which sits in the collection under Burch’s new neutral program). Said leggings and bras could be piled under her continually wonderful knits or great new outerwear (a puffed, sleeping bag coat or half-quilted, half-sherpa fleece jacket).
For fall, Burch infused a study of contrasts throughout: watercolor-inspired tie dye versus clean, bright color blocking (in red, purple, navy, royal blue) and chevron graphics when it came to palette and prints, or lightweight nylon ripstop running jackets versus chunky, puffed down coats when it came to outerwear. Within the golf and tennis categories, a new white hybrid skort with a ruffled side perfectly depicted the brand’s overall contrasting play on sporty femininity.

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.</pRead More…

Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/fall-ready-to-wear-2019/new-york/tory-sport/review/

      

Read more

Galvan RTW Fall 2019

“It’s kind of funny when you think about seasons anymore because what’s winter for someone is summer for another,” described Galvan’s Katherine Holmgren. ”There’s always so much travel in-between different locations and climates and temperatures.” Having an international customer who shops in varying climates, the team from Galvan looked to their creative director, Sola Harrison’s, recent trip to Bali to infuse a wintery jungle theme into their fall lineup. Lush green leafy hues ran throughout — simply sophisticated in floor-length slips or more daring in an emerald green sequined blazer with fringed details. Acid green also made an appearance in scuba-like materials, like a bustier minidress, mixing the surfer, beachy vibes and jungle landscapes of Ubud and Uluwatu.
“We’re always trying to make eveningwear — glamorous, yes — but with a dash of fun and youth…and a cool factor that’s often missing,” Holmgren described. The brand continues to do so — fall meant updated sequined — as well as velvet devore-offerings (in a great leafy print). A special edition hand-placed tiger printed velvet devoré shirtdress and slinky “Bali” scarf printed — found during Harrison’s travels — gowns made for great additions to round out the collection of multiple-climate appropriate attire.

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.</pRead More…

Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/fall-ready-to-wear-2019/new-york/galvan/review/

      

Read more

Antonio Berardi RTW Fall 2019

While he showcased his latest fall collection to buyers according to the traditional schedule, Antonio Berardi skipped any classic shows or presentations during fashion week this season. His beautiful collection was actually revealed to journalists with one-on-one appointments in his Milan showroom and via a range of images portraying fashion icon Catherine Baba.
“The idea that the collection starts in my world is given over to someone else, who makes it fit in her world, and the eventually of it becoming part of someone else’s universe on a totally different level is perhaps the most exciting thing of all,” Berardi said on Baba’s interpretation of her clothes.
Her bold personality actually exalted the already distinctive spirit of the collection — which, designed to complement the pre-fall range, was more focused on cocktail and evening attire.
Continuing to offer his own take on his inspiration from the year 1968 — already the theme of pre-fall — Berardi played with the sharp and the precise mixed with the soft and bohemian. A white minidress with scalloped edges and flared sleeves exuded the same feminine allure as another short dress, worked in overblown checks, showing exaggerated ruffles.
Lengths got longer in a hot pink gown revealing precise vertical

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.</pRead More…

Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/fall-ready-to-wear-2019/milan/antonio-berardi/review/

      

Read more

A.F. Vandevorst RTW Fall 2019

For fall, An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx had a country girl in mind — low profile but feminine, used to roaming the outdoors. Not one to put up with vestimentary restrictions. So they cut open the sleeves of her suit coat, lining them with zippers in case she wanted to close them back again. Shirt sleeves, too, were opened in this way, but with buttons. There was no planned color scheme — fabrics were chosen for their qualities, and then crafted into garments, making it more spontaneous and perhaps less intellectual, explained Vandevorst. Loose, tan trousers had a sporty, orange ribbon running up the leg while a silky purple shirt had piping details on the cuff, western style and one shoulder. Also in the lineup, season staples: a long, pleated skirt and smart outerwear, including trenchcoats.
Reflecting the label’s new emphasis on accessories, the showroom presentation was dominated by boots, sneakers and handbags galore — all shapes and sizes. Bags were mostly square-shaped, stamped with the label’s signature cross. Footwear options included a chunky-heeled ankle boot with zebra stripes on the front and lizard skin on the back — suitable, no doubt, for that country girl hitting the city streets.
What the

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.</pRead More…

Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/fall-ready-to-wear-2019/paris/af-vandevorst/review/

      

Read more

Hillier Bartley RTW Fall 2019

Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley cast their eyes to the Eighties, and to the pop colors and patterns of Kansai Yamamoto. Their collection was wild, full of color and languid proportions in the form of a check Zoot suit, its jacket slashed open at the front, and a camel pinstripe suit with a short jacket and roomy, tracksuit-style trousers. Blouses and dresses were draped, folded, knotted or tied, as in a silk raspberry dress with statement sleeves and piratical flair, and a black tuxedo jacket with a cascade of jewel-toned, fringed silk spilling from the back. The collection had its New Romantic moments, too, in the form of a white poet’s blouse with wide ruffles around the neck and wrists, and cotton striped shirts with layered sleeves and long flowing tails. These clothes, with their dramatic proportions and look-at-me colors, aren’t for everyone: Only the cool kids need apply.

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.</pRead More…

Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/fall-ready-to-wear-2019/london/hillier-bartley/review/

      

Read more

Capucci RTW Fall 2019

Having cycled through a number of formats and creative directors in the last few years, Capucci is banking on an injection of youth to restore the brand to the glory days of its founder, Roberto Capucci.
The label’s owner, businesswoman and art patron, Paola Santarelli, has appointed her daughter, Vittoria Bonifati, as artistic coordinator, with Valeria Giampietro as art director. They, in turn, have drafted Luisa Orsini and Antonine Peduzzi, the “It” girls behind the handbag label TL-180, to refresh the brand.
Staging a presentation in Paris for the first time, Capucci unveiled a capsule collection based on the more wearable portions of its archive. The couturier, now 88, has been a friend of the Santarellis for decades.
“He was very close with my grandmother and my mother. My mom’s wedding dress was designed by him, and also my grandmother had a lot of clothes designed by him, so I’ve known him for quite a bit, and he comes still to the atelier. He has some clients and makes haute couture,” Bonifati said.
A tunic top and cropped flared pants featured subtle black-and-white Op Art stripes that were stitched together from dozens of fine strips of fabric. A collarless coat with a scalloped edge

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.</pRead More…

Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/fall-ready-to-wear-2019/paris/capucci/review/

      

Read more

Y’s RTW Fall 2019

One of the key themes from the Black line was transparency, with signature gabardine coats flipped inside out to put their inner workings on display, the seams exposed, as well as reversible pieces, with a split-personality coat with beige linen on one side, black silk on the other.
A uniform storyline included coats mixing houndstooth with a monochrome Y’s tartan, lovely black blazers with cutouts of jewel-tone motifs lifted from Persian carpets used to evoke medals, and a series of pinstripe coats with the stripes bleached into the fabric, as well as bleached color-blocking effects.
The Pink line offered a capsule of textured knits, including a seamless cashmere sweater; feminized spins on men’s shirting fabrics, applying details like lace and ruffles to gingham and striped styles, as well as a capsule of sweatshirts playing on the band T-shirt graphics used for Prince and the Revolution’s Purple Rain Tour in the mid-Eighties.

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.</pRead More…

Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/fall-ready-to-wear-2019/paris/ys/review/

      

Read more

Karim Adduchi RTW Fall 2019

Amsterdam-based Moroccan designer Karim Adduchi’s mission in Paris was to present a line of more commercial ready-to-wear looks, ranging from jacquard coats in a woodland print to a tailored blazer with details including 3-D buttons with a design inspired by berbère culture and belt loops at the waist.
But his couture pieces grabbed all the attention, especially the twists on traditional Moroccan garb, like a top and skirt honed from finishings sourced from every city that the designer has visited in his homeland, including colored tassels in earthy hues that formed the skirt.
Also drawing the eye was a red silk scarf dress and a long gown with a split made from an artisanal striped wool with raw seams.

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.</pRead More…

Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/fall-ready-to-wear-2019/paris/karim-adduchi/review/

      

Read more