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Heron Preston Visits Nairobi With United Nations Alliance for Sustainable Fashion

Heron Preston was showing no signs of any wear-and-tear Friday, despite having just returned from a three-country journey, which included a stop in Africa.
Invited by the United Nations Alliance for Sustainable Fashion, the two-night trip was a launch for its program Future Fashion Now. The UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion is rooted in the urgency to better coordinate sustainable fashion efforts as they fit with the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development and the 17 Sustainable Development Goals. The UN flew him and a cadre of other young designers to Nairobi, where he gave a talk, explored local secondhand markets and went on a safari. The markets were packed with essentially “the effects of what happens to our stuff when we no longer want it.” Taking out his smartphone to illustrate that point, Preston reeled through photos of a room stacked to the rafters with compressed bales of secondhand clothes.
So flooded with secondhand goods, the markets have more than they can sell, Preston said. “Then that really affects the local designers and markets there. It’s harder for them to thrive because of all this stuff that we’re sending,” he said. “It’s crazy — just clothes, bras, athleticwear, jerseys. There’s a documentary

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Pharrell Williams to Be Honored at Parsons Benefit in May

PLANNING FOR THE FUTURE: The peripatetic performer Pharrell Williams will be shelving his schedule long enough to be honored by the The New School at the 71st annual Parsons benefit on May 20 at Pier 60 in New York.
This year’s event salutes visionary individuals in fashion, technology and the arts that embody the university’s commitment to creativity, innovation and sustainability. Williams’ fellow Parson Table award honorees at the event will be Julie Wainwright, founder and chief executive officer of The Real Real, and Katrina Lake, founder and ceo of Stitch Fix. Michael Preysman, founder and ceo of Everlane, will receive the Frank Alvah Parsons Award. This spring’s benefit will be held at Pier 60. Williams won’t be the only Grammy winner in the crowd. The Latin Grammy award winner Linda Briceño will perform for guests.
Joel Towers, executive dean of Parsons School of Design, noted how the school is rooted “upon the idea that design can change the world,” and how “these exceptional honorees are reimagining the creative and commercial landscape in a way that will positively impact the industry for years to come.”
To that end, Parsons has “fundamentally changed” its curriculum to train students to embed sustainable and ethical fashion

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Paul Surridge Confirms Exit From Roberto Cavalli

CAVALLI NO MORE: Paul Surridge on Monday morning confirmed he was leaving his role as creative director of the Roberto Cavalli brand through an Instagram post on his account. WWD was the first to report last week that an exit of the designer was imminent.
Surridge said in his post that he now wished “to focus on other projects that I put aside in order to achieve our common goals with Roberto Cavalli Group.”

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A post shared by Paul Surridge (@paul_surridge) on Mar 25, 2019 at 2:44am PDT

The designer joined the Florence-based brand in 2017 and his first collection bowed for spring 2018. He succeeded Peter Dundas, who exited the company in October 2016.

Paul Surridge and Roberto Cavalli on the catwalk at Surridge’s first show for the brand
Davide Maestri/WWD

Born in England, and a graduate of London’s Central Saint Martins, Surridge was previously creative consultant at Acne Studios, with responsibility for coordination of the men’s wear collections. Before that, he was creative director of Z Zegna from 2011 to 2014.
Earlier, Surridge was design director men at Jil Sander, reporting to then-creative director Raf Simons. This is where he met Ferraris. Surridge honed his skills at

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Jonathan Simkhai to Present Resort Show in Sydney

SYDNEY — Jonathan Simkhai is heading to Sydney to unveil his resort 2020 resort collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia.
Los Angeles-based Simkhai is due to show May 13 on the first full day of shows for the 2019 event, which will run May 12 to 18 in and around the Carriageworks venue, the event’s central show hub in the inner city suburb of Eveleigh.
“We are super excited about it,” said Simkhai. “The collection has this whole element about Magic Hour, when the sun sets and everyone looks their best, and the setting is going to be perfect for that.”
The sixth American name to show in Sydney since 2015, following previous presentations by Oscar de la Renta, Cynthia Rowley, Tome, Garrett Neff and Yuxin Zhang, Simkhai was among around 40 already confirmed Australian brands for 2019 that were announced by IMG at the preliminary schedule launch in Sydney on Monday evening.
Also making his Sydney debut this year will be Australian Lukas Vincent, a 2017 regional finalist of the International Woolmark Prize who has been generating buzz for his elevated streetwear line Ex Infinitas.
Joining Vincent as his Sydney show’s creative director will be Paris-based photographer Fabien Montique, a longtime Kanye West and Virgil Abloh

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Kohl’s Ceo Pay Tops $12 Million

KOHL’S COMP: Kohl’s Corp. might be known for its value-minded pricing, but it pays up in the c-suite.
Chief executive officer Michelle Gass drew total compensation of $12.3 million last year, down slightly from $12.6 million in 2017, according to a filing Friday with the Securities and Exchange Commission. Over $7.2 million of Gass’ take for 2018 came in the form of stock awards, the full value of which might never be realized, but she also received a salary of $1.4 million and incentive pay of $3.5 million.
President Sona Chawla received compensation of $7 million while chief merchandising officer Doug Howe’s pay totaled $8.7 million.
Former chairman, president and ceo Kevin Mansell received compensation of $8.9 million despite retiring May.

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EXCLUSIVE: The Whitney Museum to Honor Michael Bloomberg at Gala and Studio Party

The Whitney Museum of American Art will honor Michael Bloomberg during its annual Gala and Studio Party on April 9.
The centrist politician, who two weeks ago revealed he would not be running for president in 2020, is “a great friend to the Whitney,” according to the museum’s Alice Pratt Brown director Adam D. Weinberg. Bloomberg’s honor stems from his philanthropic work and support for artists and cultural organizations; under his administration spanning 11 years, the founder of Bloomberg LP backed 500 public art projects.
There’s more cause for celebration, though: the gala, which this year will be sponsored by Michael Kors and Audi, marks the four-year anniversary of the museum’s move downtown to the Meatpacking District. Plus folks will be able to celebrate — or perhaps more accurately, mourn — the closing of the oft-Instagrammed exhibit “Andy Warhol — From A to B and Back Again.”
For Kors’ part, he said he’s looking forward to checking out the next thing the museum has to offer.
“I love the building and the fact that there’s always something new and provocative to see,” he said. “Having the Whitney in my backyard is a dream.”

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‪Pharrell Williams Teases Short Film for Chanel Collaboration‬

PARIS — The Chanel-Pharrell collection is landing soon: Pharrell Williams teased some looks from his eagerly awaited collaboration with the French luxury brand in a 15-second clip posted to his Instagram account on Friday.
The segment shows a group of women and men lounging after dark, dressed in the rainbow outfits from the capsule. Williams is seen holding a glowing orb inside his mouth, to eerie effect, while in another scene, a television screen in a grand apartment shows black-and-white footage of the label’s founder, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, talking about elegance.
Williams has a long-standing relationship with Chanel and the late Karl Lagerfeld, its creative director for 36 years, starting with their sneaker launch at the now-defunct Paris concept store Colette in 2017.
The “Happy” singer, who has won 10 Grammy Awards and heads the multimedia collective I Am Other, was previously one of the ambassadors of the Gabrielle handbag, has walked in its runway shows and appeared in a movie directed by Lagerfeld for which he wrote an original song.
An early proponent of genderfluid dressing, Williams likes to wear Chanel pearls with everything from a tuxedo to a yellow hoodie.
Lagerfeld regularly included a number of men’s looks, often modeled by his muses Baptiste Giabiconi

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Gucci, Roberto Cavalli Awarded With UNHCR Recognition

JOBS FOR REFUGEES: Italian luxury fashion companies Gucci and Roberto Cavalli have been awarded with the “Welcome. Working for Refugee Integration” prize.
The recognition is part of a program with the same name, spearheaded by the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees, or UNHCR, which both companies committed to in 2018. The initiative is aimed at promoting inclusivity and human rights of refugees escaping from war-torn countries by enhancing their financial independence through job positions and training.
In particular, Gucci introduced a pilot project last year to offer professional education and add to the label’s workforce young people from Gambia, Nigeria, Somalia, Mali, Ucraina and Senegal. Gucci partnered with the Adecco Foundation for Equal Opportunities and social cooperative Cenacolo di Firenze on the project.
“This accolade bears witness to our commitment to favoring the professional integration of refugees and to supporting their process of integration in Italy, as well as to promoting and sensitizing our employees to an inclusive society model that can prevent and combat xenophobic and racist sentiment against asylum seekers and beneficiaries of international protection,” said Marco Bizzarri, president and chief executive officer of Gucci.
In addition, the Kering-owned company on World Refugee Day (June 20) last year hosted in a

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Lane Crawford Signs Strategic Partnership With Labelhood

LONDON — Labelhood, a Shanghai-based emerging designer support platform, community and fashion retailer, has entered into a strategic partnership deal with Lane Crawford for the Greater China region.
Labelhood will open pop-up corners in Lane Crawford’s stores in Hong Kong, Beijing, Shanghai and Chengdu, with the focus on Chinese emerging talents from the fall 2019 season.
The partnership also includes a three-season scholarship supporting the most promising Chinese designers. The retailer will support the winner’s showcase in Labelhood during Shanghai Fashion Week with a cash prize of 100,000 renminbi, or $14,867 each season.
The first recipient of the inaugural scholarship is the New York-based Chinese designer Caroline Hu. Educated at Central Saint Martins and Parsons School of Design, Hu was nominated as a finalist in the 2019 edition on LVMH Prize last month.
“I am truly grateful for the support from Labelhood and Lane Crawford,” said Hu. “The scholarship is a very big encouragement for independent designers like me, and it will play a positive role in promoting the growth of independent designers in China.”
Tasha Liu, founder of Labelhood, said “The upcoming collaboration with Lane Crawford reaffirms our positioning on continuous Chinese designer incubation. I believe the partnership will amplify the message.”
Joanna Gunn, Lane

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Fashion Now Sheds Light on Fashion Talents in Beijing

BEIJING — A group of designer brands has chosen to show as a collective with the independent fashion showcase platform, Fashion Now, at Dreamland Art Space inside Beijing’s Four Seasons Hotel on March 20 to 21.
Founded in 2013 by Yilan Jiang, former deputy fashion feature director of Vogue China, and Sisi Ma Fashion Now provides an alternative solution for designer brands that want to be seen in a more curated setting, as the official calendar in Beijing is often filled with uninspiring brands and political influence and lack the power to attract top buyers and editors.
Jiang said the intention of launching Fashion Now is to “set the bar high on physical and metaphysical levels. I want to provide quality designers and brands with a platform and space to showcase their creations, and we grow with them along with the way.”
Fashion Now is a key event for the Beijing fashion community. Angelica Cheung, Simona Sha, editor in chief of the Chinese editions of Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar, respectively, have attended the shows, as well as designer Xander Zhou; fashion photographer Trunk Xu; artist Shurui Li, who collaborated with Dior Lady Art #3 project, and Hu Bing, actor and men’s wear ambassador

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Berluti Debuts Beach Collection

A BIGGER SPLASH: After Chanel’s Coco Beach collection and Loewe’s collaboration with Paula’s Ibiza, it is men’s wear’s turn to head to the beach with a new seasonal collection from Berluti featuring everything from pool rings to swim shorts.
Accessories combine the brand’s signature patinated Venezia leather with neon accents, while items such as beach towels and deck chairs prominently feature the new logo introduced by creative director Kris Van Assche.
The Berluti Beach capsule line, featuring items ranging from a $320 key ring to a $5,000 weekend bag, will go on sale at Berluti stores worldwide from April 7. Window displays will feature a summery blue skyline framed with a wall of light-reflecting inflatable cubes.

A pétanque set from the Berluti Beach collection.
Courtesy

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What Is ‘Modest Fashion’ and Why Is It Spreading?

When the topic of “modest clothing” comes up, images of Middle Eastern women in long robes emerge. And while that remains true, the trend of modest clothing is spreading west.
According to data analytics firm Edited, the demand for modest fashion “is expanding outside of the UAE and seeing growth in the western world with a 15 percent increase since 2017.”
In a report written by Charlotte Yau with research and data by Edited market analyst Kayla Marci, the firm noted that “modest clothing” receives about 8,000 Google searches each month in the U.S. “And religion isn’t the only reason women are opting to cover up,” the researchers said. “For some, it’s a personal preference; they find modesty empowering. With the #MeToo movement, women are dressing for themselves than for the male gaze. While the majority of customers are based in the Middle East, demand is growing in the U.S. and U.K.”
Yai and Marci noted that in the U.S. luxury market “there was a 50 percent [year-over-year] increase of long-sleeve blouses with a high neckline” and the midi shape “also makes up 53 percent of total skirt assortment.”
“So who’s wearing modestly?” the researchers said. “Western women in the U.S. make up 36

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Chanel’s Sloane Street Pop-up Store Gets Robbed

SMASH-AND-GRAB: Chanel remains thieves’ brand of choice in London, with a pop-up store on Sloane Street, not far from Sloane Square, robbed for the third time in four months. The pop-up has been operating while the permanent Sloane Street store is being refurbished. That one is due to open this summer.
According to police, thieves reversed a van into the front window. A male driver dressed in a high-vis jacket was at the wheel and his accomplices were on mopeds. The robbery took place earlier this week, hours before the release of Chanel’s latest sneakers, which retail for 700 pounds. British media speculated that they may have been the target of the raid, since the shoes can be sold online for double the price.
Chanel had recently removed caged guard dogs from the temporary store after the brand faced significant backlash on social media. The company has declined to comment on the incident, while a spokesperson from Scotland Yard said in a statement: “At this early stage there have been no significant arrests.”
In 2016, Chanel’s Brompton Road boutique faced a similar fate and Lindsay Lohan was the first to report the early Monday morning raid. The actress posted a photo of the crime scene to her

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Gucci Scores Top Spot in BrandZ Most Valuable Italian Brands List

Gucci has secured the top position in the BrandZ 2019 Top 30 Most Valuable Italian Brands list.
Prada, Giorgio Armani, Fendi, Bottega Veneta, Salvatore Ferragamo and Bulgari also made the list, signaling the relevance of Made in Italy luxury players on a global scale. The seven luxury brands accounted for 40 percent of the total $96.9 billion value generated by the 30 labels on the list.
Compiled annually for the past 13 years by London-based advertising and public relations agency WPP through its data management subsidiary Kantar, the list highlights the most valuable brands for a range of countries including the U.S., France, Spain, the U.K., Australia and Saudi Arabia, among others. A Top 100 Most Valuable Global Brands list is also issued each year but it has yet to be released.
Gucci generated a value worth $24.4 billion in 2018, according to the report, up 50 percent compared to the previous year. Despite dropping by 5 percent compared to the 2018 list, Prada is the second most-valuable brand among the fashion and luxury players with a $3.8 billion value, which secured the house the sixth position on the list, behind automotive company Ferrari. Armani is worth $2.5 billion, up 5 percent compared

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Tommy Hilfiger Calls on Social Entrepreneurs for Fashion Frontier Challenge

Tommy Hilfiger, which is owned by PVH Corp., is accepting applications for the second year of the Tommy Hilfiger Fashion Frontier Challenge.
The global program seeks to support entrepreneurial start-up and scale-up stage businesses developing solutions that promote inclusive and positive change in fashion.
“The first chapter of this global initiative was an inspiring journey that put a spotlight on incredible ideas that could change the lives of people through a more positive and inclusive fashion landscape,” said Tommy Hilfiger. “Through the Tommy Hilfiger Fashion Frontier Challenge, we continue to mentor and support social entrepreneurs who are putting their heart and soul into addressing issues they strong believe in. This celebrates the entrepreneurial spirit and determined optimism at the heart of our brand DNA.”
Interested businesses are asked to submit project proposals that focus on inclusive fashion. Over a multistage four-month process, applicants will be narrowed down to six finalists who will be invited to develop their project plans with the support of a team of dedicated Tommy Hilfiger subject-matter experts at the Campus of the Future in Amsterdam, the Netherlands. They will pitch their finalized concepts at the global Tommy Hilfiger Fashion Frontier Challenge Final Event in early 2020, where a jury

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Forever 21 Marks Selena Film Anniversary With Capsule

COMING UP ROSES: Los Angeles fast-fashion retailer Forever 21 worked with the sister of the late singer Selena Quintanilla-Perez for an edgy capsule collection.
The offering, called Forever 21 Presents: Selena the White Rose Collection, launches in conjunction with the 22nd anniversary of the movie on the singer.
“We’ve actually been selling Selena products and, in the past, we noticed that every time we brought something in with Selena, it would blow out. So we really wanted to do something special,” said Linda Chang, vice president of merchandising.
Previous merchandise around the songstress mainly consisted of T-shirts with images of her on the front. While this new collection bears a number of graphic T-shirts, sweatshirts and long-sleeves with images of the artist or quotes, the design team worked alongside Quintanilla-Perez’s sister, Suzette Quintanilla, to incorporate details, such as a bike short, tie-front purple crop top in a nod to her favorite color and a button pack.
“We did try to separate from what our regular logo collections have been in the past,” Chang said. “With Selena, we really tried to incorporate new, different styles.”
The retailer also tapped celebrity stylist Monica Rose and Vanessa Romo, who appeared on the Univision show “Nuestra Belleza Latina,” to

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Sterling Ruby to Debut Fashion Brand at Pitti Uomo

RUBY’S SOLO: American artist Sterling Ruby will be launching a ready-to-wear collection at the upcoming Pitti Uomo edition in Florence June 11 to 14.
Tapped as special guest of the trade show, Ruby will unveil the S.R. Studio. La. Ca. label with an event to be hosted at the Pagliere venue on June 13.
Including both men’s wear and women’s wear, the brand will embody the evolution of Ruby’s artwork — which spans from painting, ceramics, collage and video to sculpture, photography and installation — revisiting the American workwear style.
“Pitti Uomo has a special spot in the world of fashion,” Ruby said. “It has affirmed itself as a central stage with its specific identity, without compromise….The invitation to be special guest at Pitti represents for me the perfect moment to realize a project I’ve been exploring privately in my studio for 10 years.”
This is not the first time Ruby has ventured into fashion, as he has frequently collaborated with Raf Simons both for the designer’s namesake label — co-creating the fall 2014 collection — and at Calvin Klein, where he conceived the brand’s offices, numerous installations for runway shows and retooled the Madison Avenue flagship in a bright yellow space. Simons and

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Paul Surridge Said to Exit Roberto Cavalli

According to a well-informed source in London, Paul Surridge has resigned, or is close to taking that step, leaving his role as creative director of the Roberto Cavalli brand. An announcement is expected to come as early as this week.
Sources said the designer over the past few months has grown increasingly frustrated because of the lack of investment in the development and refurbishment of the store network as well as in marketing and communications. He is also said to feel the design team has not been supported, as resources have been scarce.
“The decision last summer to look for an external investor and, more recently, to not provide any more funding have made the original project impossible, and therefore triggered Paul’s decision to look elsewhere,” said one source.
Committed to chief executive officer Gian Giacomo Ferraris and his team, Surridge agreed to stay on to design and present the spring 2019 and fall 2019 collections. However, sources now say that Surridge has been approached for another project and wants to distance himself from the company in order to be in the position to evaluate freely the next step in his career.
The Roberto Cavalli company had no comment on the rumors.
Surridge joined the

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Barneys Beverly Hills Door First to Bow the High End Concept Shop

ROLLING OUT: Barneys New York is looking to take the cannabis lifestyle to higher ground with a new concept shop rolling out to its Beverly Hills store first.
The High End launches with product from more than 30 brands, including an exclusive deal with Beboe. The assortment touches on categories that range from home and beauty to jewelry. Among the roster of product exclusives are Devambez rolling papers, custom-blown glass pipes by Caleb Siemmon and Laboratorio Pesaro ashtrays.
“As vast as the market is, it’s actually a really small community in terms of what everyone is doing,” said creative director Matthew Mazzucca about the competitive landscape. “No one is really addressing the home, the lifestyle product aspect of it. We have access to the best designers and vendors in the world and we’re able to partner with them on special collaborations. We looked at the concept and started speaking to people about a year ago to create special product people can use in their homes that’s functional, that’s meant to be left out and displayed.”
It’s the buys, which Mazzucca called “super elevated,” that Barneys thinks will give it a leg up on the competition.

The High End at Barneys New York’s Beverly Hills

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BABE Launches for Networking-minded Women Execs

Rosenthal & Rosenthal Inc., the Accessories Council, and the LHB Group have launched a networking group for women executives, business owners and entrepreneurs, called BABE.
That’s short for “Bad Ass Business Executives.” So far, the group has nearly 100 women business leaders from the food, fashion, accessories, beauty, wellness and financial services sectors. The group is geared to facilitate connections and foster collaborations through gatherings, workshops and other events.
“Women lead only 14 percent of major brands and only 4.8 percent of Fortune 500 companies,” said Cassie Rosenthal, senior vice president of Rosenthal & Rosenthal, a factoring, asset-based lending and purchase order financing firm. “I wanted to actively do something to help move women-run businesses forward. The motivation behind BABE is to create a different kind of collaborative platform that unites women across multiple industries and generations, and gives them access to real resources to help them succeed. BABE is about fostering leadership at a high level.”
The group kicked off on March 13 with 40 female executives at the Beatrice Inn in Manhattan and will host a series of invitation-only events through the summer in New York and Los Angeles, culminating with a panel discussion at the Fashion Institute of Technology.
“In my

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