Mens

Pitti Uomo to Commemorate Several Milestones at January Edition

NEW YORK — There are going to be a lot of anniversaries celebrated at the next edition of Pitti Uomo.
The 97th edition of the Florence-based trade show, which will be held Jan. 7 to 10 at the Fortezza da Basso, will play host to everyone from Brioni and Chevignon to Woolrich as they celebrate milestone birthdays.
Brioni will be marking its 75th year at the fair with a special event curated by Olivier Saillard that will present the brand’s new fall collection through a special nod to its history. In addition, Chevignon is being relaunched on its 40th anniversary and will host a fashion show to introduce its direction while celebrating its past. Woolrich, which will be 190 years old in 2020, will create a “multifaceted universe” that celebrates the winter season and its long heritage. The show will also mark the debut of the brand’s Arctic Capsule, a special collection based on the Arctic parka.
Raffaello Napoleone, chief executive officer of Pitti Immagine, which owns the Pitti Uomo men’s show, provided the details during his biannual luncheon here on Friday. The theme of this year’s event is “Show Your Flags,” which is intended to reference how “every collection is like a

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Pitti Uomo to Commemorate Several Milestones at January Edition

NEW YORK — There are going to be a lot of anniversaries celebrated at the next edition of Pitti Uomo.
The 97th edition of the Florence-based trade show, which will be held Jan. 7 to 10 at the Fortezza da Basso, will play host to everyone from Brioni and Chevignon to Woolrich as they celebrate milestone birthdays.
Brioni will be marking its 75th year at the fair with a special event curated by Olivier Saillard that will present the brand’s new fall collection through a special nod to its history. In addition, Chevignon is being relaunched on its 40th anniversary and will host a fashion show to introduce its direction while celebrating its past. Woolrich, which will be 190 years old in 2020, will create a “multifaceted universe” that celebrates the winter season and its long heritage. The show will also mark the debut of the brand’s Arctic Capsule, a special collection based on the Arctic parka.
Raffaello Napoleone, chief executive officer of Pitti Immagine, which owns the Pitti Uomo men’s show, provided the details during his biannual luncheon here on Friday. The theme of this year’s event is “Show Your Flags,” which is intended to reference how “every collection is like a

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-retail-business/pitti-uomo-several-milestones-january-edition-1203366014/

      

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Alton Lane Launches Guest Designer Series

Alton Lane has launched a Guest Designer Series, where partners will curate looks from the brand’s offering.
Each look will be available for customers to order as full outfits or individual pieces. Customers can order during a showroom appointment at the 12 Alton Lane stores or online, and will be promoted through digital campaigns by the guest designer. The first partner, Garrett Leight of Garrett Leight California Optical, created looks from 25 pieces of the brand’s suits, dress and casualwear, including suits, blazers, shoes and a dinner jacket.
The second guest designer will be Zach Weiss, and partners in 2020 will include ESPN sports journalist Marty Smith. Each collection will be available for three months after launch.
“We see this as an evergreen program and one that will evolve over time,” said Alton Lane cofounder and chief executive officer Colin Hunter. “At its core, Alton Lane is focused on providing men with tailor-made pieces that they feel good wearing. From the start, we have been inspired by the men who come through our showroom, and their personal style, and wanted to find a way to celebrate and highlight that in a way that felt true to the Alton Lane brand.”
Hunter tapped Leight for

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Alton Lane Launches Guest Designer Series

Alton Lane has launched a Guest Designer Series, where partners will curate looks from the brand’s offering.
Each look will be available for customers to order as full outfits or individual pieces. Customers can order during a showroom appointment at the 12 Alton Lane stores or online, and will be promoted through digital campaigns by the guest designer. The first partner, Garrett Leight of Garrett Leight California Optical, created looks from 25 pieces of the brand’s suits, dress and casualwear, including suits, blazers, shoes and a dinner jacket.
The second guest designer will be Zach Weiss, and partners in 2020 will include ESPN sports journalist Marty Smith. Each collection will be available for three months after launch.
“We see this as an evergreen program and one that will evolve over time,” said Alton Lane cofounder and chief executive officer Colin Hunter. “At its core, Alton Lane is focused on providing men with tailor-made pieces that they feel good wearing. From the start, we have been inspired by the men who come through our showroom, and their personal style, and wanted to find a way to celebrate and highlight that in a way that felt true to the Alton Lane brand.”
Hunter tapped Leight for

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-fashion/alton-lane-launches-guest-designer-series-1203365447/

      

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Slightly Alabama Branches Out Into Apparel With Cockpit Collab

Like it or not, Dana Glaeser is now a retailer.
On Tuesday night, the founder of the Slightly Alabama artisan leather goods brand celebrated the one-year anniversary of the opening of his retail store at 350 Bleecker Street in Greenwich Village.
The location was initially part of the Love, Bleecker program conceived by Brookfield Property Group last year to help revitalize the street. The real estate developer acquired seven retail spaces and negotiated with several brands to open stores there as a way to position the street as a place to once again find art, commerce and culture.
Slightly Alabama was one of them, taking over a 2,200-square-foot space and filling it with not only its own upscale leather products, but also a selection of similarly minded men’s brands including Cockpit, Freenote Cloth, Krammer & Stoudt and more.
The success of the concept prompted Glaeser to relocate his workshop from Brooklyn and set up shop at the back of the store permanently, even though he has now transitioned to a more-traditional rent structure with Brookfield as his landlord.
During the year anniversary event, Glaeser also showcased his first apparel collaboration, a leather motorcycle vest co-branded with Cockpit. A country gentleman’s jacket is in the works

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Nordstrom Brings Beams to the States

Nordstrom is bringing Beams, the buzzy Tokyo store, to the States for the first time in a retail space this fall.
The Japanese company is the latest collaborator at the Nordstrom men’s store’s Concept pop-up project. Concept: 007 Beams will open to the public today and remain through the holiday season.
Sam Lobban, vice president of men’s fashion for Nordstrom, said the company is “always scouring the market for interesting and innovative ideas across the scope of men’s.”
Over the course of his career, which included a stint at Mr Porter, he visited Japan eight or nine times, he said, nearly always Tokyo, and had “developed a relationship with the team at Beams.”
So when brainstorming about what the newest iteration of the Concept project could be, Lobban immediately thought of Beams.
Lobban said he’s long been a fan of “the product they sell and the way they present their brand” as well as their distinctly Japanese take on Americana, which is wildly popular in that country.
“We wanted to give them the opportunity to show Americana through a Japanese lens and bring it back to America,” he said.
As a result, the shop will showcase an eclectic assortment of gifts, ranging from knitwear to sake sets.

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-retail-business/nordstrom-beams-u-s-tokyo-sam-lobban-makoto-toda-1203364638/

      

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Nordstrom Brings Beams to the States

Nordstrom is bringing Beams, the buzzy Tokyo store, to the States for the first time in a retail space this fall.
The Japanese company is the latest collaborator at the Nordstrom men’s store’s Concept pop-up project. Concept: 007 Beams will open to the public today and remain through the holiday season.
Sam Lobban, vice president of men’s fashion for Nordstrom, said the company is “always scouring the market for interesting and innovative ideas across the scope of men’s.”
Over the course of his career, which included a stint at Mr Porter, he visited Japan eight or nine times, he said, nearly always Tokyo, and had “developed a relationship with the team at Beams.”
So when brainstorming about what the newest iteration of the Concept project could be, Lobban immediately thought of Beams.
Lobban said he’s long been a fan of “the product they sell and the way they present their brand” as well as their distinctly Japanese take on Americana, which is wildly popular in that country.
“We wanted to give them the opportunity to show Americana through a Japanese lens and bring it back to America,” he said.
As a result, the shop will showcase an eclectic assortment of gifts, ranging from knitwear to sake sets.

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-retail-business/nordstrom-beams-u-s-tokyo-sam-lobban-makoto-toda-1203364638/

      

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Meet Jim Gold’s Newest Passion Project: Vuori

After more than three decades with Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman, Jim Gold has developed an instinct for which brands will break out of an oversaturated apparel market. His latest discovery is Vuori.
Gold, who left the retailer in mid-March, has become an investor and board member in the California-based men’s activewear brand, joining Norwest Venture Partners which invested $45 million in the company in August and became a minority owner.
“Vuori is best positioned to break out and be a $1 billion brand,” Gold predicted over breakfast during a recent visit to New York. Current sales of the privately held company are believed to be around $50 million.
Gold said that after leaving Neiman’s, “I had plenty of time on my hands and I wanted a break from fashion.”
Since exiting Neiman’s, Gold had chosen to get involved with only one other company, Joor, a digital business-to-business wholesale marketplace. But his long history in merchandising is deep in his bones and after a friend gave him a pair of Vuori shorts, he was smitten. “I was surprised that I’d never heard of it,” he said.
Gold went online and started researching the company, and “the more I read, the more intrigued I became.” So

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Meet Jim Gold’s Newest Passion Project: Vuori

After more than three decades with Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman, Jim Gold has developed an instinct for which brands will break out of an oversaturated apparel market. His latest discovery is Vuori.
Gold, who left the retailer in mid-March, has become an investor and board member in the California-based men’s activewear brand, joining Norwest Venture Partners which invested $45 million in the company in August and became a minority owner.
“Vuori is best positioned to break out and be a $1 billion brand,” Gold predicted over breakfast during a recent visit to New York. Current sales of the privately held company are believed to be around $50 million.
Gold said that after leaving Neiman’s, “I had plenty of time on my hands and I wanted a break from fashion.”
Since exiting Neiman’s, Gold had chosen to get involved with only one other company, Joor, a digital business-to-business wholesale marketplace. But his long history in merchandising is deep in his bones and after a friend gave him a pair of Vuori shorts, he was smitten. “I was surprised that I’d never heard of it,” he said.
Gold went online and started researching the company, and “the more I read, the more intrigued I became.” So

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-sportswear/meet-jim-gold-vuori-joe-kudla-1203362915/

      

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Chapelo Bespoke Hats Inks Deal With Custom Tailor

Chapelo Bespoke Hats, which is single-handedly trying to bring back custom-made men’s hats, has inked a deal with Harris and Howard Bespoke Tailors, which has locations in Dallas, Houston and the U.K., to offer custom fittings of the full line of its headwear.
“I am always on the lookout for ways to give my clients access to all types of quality fabrics, clothing and accessories,” said Carl Emery, bespoke tailor at Harris and Howard. “I had not come across a bespoke hatmaker yet, so Chapelo piqued my interest. Once I experienced the fitting process, and received my hat, I was sold. Their quality is second to none and the attention to detail throughout the customer experience is truly what sets Chapelo apart. I’m excited to offer Chapelo hats as part of our bespoke product line at Harris and Howard.”
The brand was created this year to offer American-made, classic-style men’s hats that are custom measured and handcrafted from beaver felt. Up until now, the process was available only in the company’s Sylvania, Ohio, showroom or at trunk shows. In its process, Chapelo takes multiple head measurements to ensure that the hat will fit perfectly.
Under the terms of this deal, a Harris and

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-accessories/chapelo-bespoke-hats-inks-deal-with-custom-tailor-1203360505/

      

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Stefano Pilati to Present Random Identities at Pitti Uomo

MILAN — Stefano Pilati will bring its digital-first project Random Identities to Florence next January.
The Berlin-based designer will be among the special guests of the upcoming edition of Pitti Uomo, running Jan. 10-17. The designer will stage a special event on Jan. 9 in a still undisclosed location.
After exiting the Ermenegildo Zegna company in 2016, Pilati teased his Random Identities unisex line the following year with Instagram posts. The brand officially debuted at Canadian e-tailer Ssense in November 2018.
“It’s a great pleasure to offer a preview of Random Identities, the new project by Stefano Pilati, and this event demonstrates our longtime mutual respect and friendship,” said Lapo Cianchi, Pitti Immagine director of communication and events. “Along with its original contribution to the ideas of gender and identity, it seems that Random Identities is a fruit of Pilati’s inner desire to express himself through fashion, with his obsession for clothes that is the result of decades of integrity, work and constant learning.”
The schedule of the next edition of Pitti Uomo will also include a runway show hosted by Jil Sander, the other special guest brand at the trade show, as well as an event by Telfar Clemens, the founder and creative director

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-designer-luxury/stefano-pilati-to-present-random-identities-at-pitti-uomo-1203359899/

      

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Pal Zileri Creative Director Rocco Iannone Exits Brand

MILAN — Rocco Iannone is exiting Italian men’s wear label Pal Zileri and leaving his role of creative director after two years.
A successor has not been named.
A graduate of fashion and design school Istituto Marangoni, Iannone previously worked in the men’s wear department of the Giorgio Armani Group for 10 years. He also coordinated special projects and brand endorsement activities for the Milan-based group.
The designer infused romantic, artistic and poetic touches to his designs at Pal Zileri, eyeing a sophisticated, almost dandy customer. Market sources say Iannone is on his way to lead a lifestyle project.
Last year, Pal Zileri unveiled its revamped Via Manzoni boutique in Milan, restyled by Iannone and reflecting his eclectic taste, decorated with Philippe Starck and Gio Ponti seats that contrasted with an 18th-century French gilded mirror and vintage wooden tables.
Iannone succeeded Mauro Ravizza Krieger, who left after a three-year tenure.
The company has seen its share of changes at the management level, too. In July last year, Pal Zileri ushered in a new chief executive officer, Marco Sanavia, to succeed Giovanni Mannucci, who in turn had succeeded Paolo Roviera.
Mayhoola, an investment vehicle backed by a private investor group from Qatar, first took a 65 percent stake in Pal Zileri parent company Forall SpA in

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Perry Ellis Designer Michael Maccari Steps Down

The Michael Maccari era at Perry Ellis has come to an end.
In a surprise announcement Tuesday morning, the company said Maccari, who had headed the creative efforts of the brand since 2013, has resigned to “pursue other opportunities.”
Oscar Feldenkreis, chief executive officer of the Miami-based company, who was attending the WWD CEO Summit in New York, said Maccari is “a great guy and did a lot of great things for the brand. He was instrumental in getting Perry to where we are today. We wish him the best of luck.”
Maccari, who was fashion director and senior vice president of design for Armani Exchange, also worked at Polo Ralph Lauren, J. Crew, Calvin Klein and Donna Karan New York before joining Perry Ellis. He is a graduate of the Fashion Institute of Technology. He could not be reached for comment on his future plans.
Maccari brought Perry Ellis back to the runway by holding fashion shows several times during New York Fashion Week: Men’s. He was also the architect behind the relaunch of the Perry Ellis America label with designs based on the archival pieces of the past.
Feldenkreis also acknowledged Maccari’s part in the successful relaunch of the Perry Ellis America label,

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Michael Maccari Leaving Perry Ellis

Michael Maccari, the longtime creative director of Perry Ellis, has resigned.
In a brief statement on Tuesday morning, the company said Maccari, who has headed the brand’s creative direction since 2013, has left to “pursue other opportunities.”
“I am grateful for Michael’s dedication to Perry Ellis throughout the last six years,” said Jason Zuckerman, president of Perry Ellis and Original Penguin. “His work in driving the brand’s creative vision will leave an indelible mark, and we wish him the best as he embarks on new endeavors.”
See WWD.com for more as the story develops.

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-designer-luxury/michael-maccari-leaving-perry-ellis-1203357968/

      

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Eric Emanuel Opens First Solo Pop-up in NoLIta

Eric Emanuel is stepping out on his own. Following collaborations with Adidas and New Era, the streetwear designer has opened the first pop-up shop under his own name at 251 Elizabeth Street in New York.
In November 2018, Emanuel worked with New Era on a pop-up for the brand’s MLB apparel, followed by another with Adidas for the rerelease of the Adidas Rivalry in January.
But this shop, which will be open for three weeks beginning today, will be his first solo foray. It carries Emanuel’s signature basketball shorts in solid colors and Andy Warhol cow wallpaper-inspired patterns and colors and trucker caps. New product will be released every Friday, beginning with the Adidas Rivalry low-top, the 1986 sneaker initially made in France for NBA Hall of Famer Patrick Ewing, and later mesh floral and plaid shooting shirts and matching shorts. Emanuel wants the pop-up to feel like a home, hence the pink couch, wooden floors and yellow striped walls adorned with artwork.

The Syracuse, N.Y.-native achieved instant success by producing snakeskin basketball jerseys that were worn by rappers Travis Scott, Post Malone, A$AP Rocky and Future, among others. Emanuel has since shifted his focus to basketball shorts.
“When I started making the product,

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Eric Lawrence Debuts Odessa 1919

Eric Lawrence is a name to watch. The Dallas native, who gained notoriety for his Anger fashion project, has unveiled his second fashion venture, Odessa 1919. The brand launches with a silver detailed update of the Nike Air Force I sneaker, which retails for $650 and is available for preorder starting today on the Odessa 1919 web site.
“I have a fascination of how opposites/dualities work together to create something new,” said Lawrence, who explained that Odessa represents the industrial Texas city where he grew up, while 1919 references the year German art school Staatliches Bauhaus was founded. “Both inspirations work together. The shoe is an example of this idea of duality — how two opposites come together to create something new.”
The idea came naturally to the young designer, who is based in New York City. “One day, I was putting silver tips on a pair of cowboy boots and I was seeing what it would look like on a sneaker. I grew up in Texas where kids went to school wearing cowboy boots. Before this, I was doing different projects under my name, but I knew at some point I wanted to start my passion project.”
Lawrence first grew interested in

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-fashion/eric-lawrence-launches-odessa-1203191158/

      

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Fisher + Baker to Sponsor Wayzata Match Cup Sailing Race

Fisher + Baker, a Minneapolis-based functional men’s brand, has become the official sponsor of the fourth annual Wayzata Match Cup sailing race on Lake Minnetonka in Wayzata, Minn.
The pro-am race, scheduled for June 20 to 23, is the final stop of the M32 World International Race Series’ North American winter series before the elite team of America’s Cup sailors head to Europe for the M32 World Summer Racing Series. The Wayzata Match Cup showcases the top America’s Cup teams competing in M32 catamarans on Lake Minnetonka. It’s part of the Lake Minnetonka Summer Splash and is held in conjunction with the Wayzata Art Experience & Bash for the Boardwalk that attracts more than 195,000 visitors to downtown Wayzata.
Fisher + Baker will outfit competitors in its Greenwich Anorak, a nautical-inspired jacket made from Ventile fabric, which was developed to protect Royal Air Force pilots from the elements. The company will also install a pop-up shop at the event.
Mike Arbeiter, president and chief executive officer of Fisher + Baker, said: “We are excited to partner with Wayzata Match Cup for a remarkable weekend of sailing in our Twin Cities community.”

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Cowboys, Y-Fronts and the New Drag: Brands to Check Out During Paris Men’s Week

PARIS — Paris men’s fashion week is having a moment: Hailing from Los Angeles, Sweden, China or Monaco, Rhude, Eytys, Li Ning and Alter are among the rising international brands that have been added to the official men’s calendar and presentation lineup this season.
GAMUT
Things are going pretty fast for Gamut, the fashion collective created in 2017 by former students of La Cambre fashion school in Brussels — which is surprising, because the seven French nationals are intent on taking their time.
“We’re continuing to experiment with the fashion calendar: We chose to skip fall 2019 to focus on our showroom, and realized that taking nine months to create a collection was a rhythm we quite liked,” said one of the members — all of whom prefer to remain anonymous — speaking at the collective’s studio at the Porte de la Chapelle, a somewhat sketchy area in the remote 18th arrondissement.
Since its first debut show last September, Gamut has added a photographer/visual director to its team, and landed a spot on the French couture federation’s official calendar for presentations. Now it’s behaving like full-fledged business with dedicated members in charge of sourcing, production, administration and communication. Decisions are still fully collegial, though.
“Each

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-fashion/paris-mens-week-rhude-eytys-gamut-li-ning-1203181364/

      

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Sander Lak Wants a Piece of Men’s Wear Pie for Sies Marjan

NEW YORK — Reserved, quiet, unassuming. These are words that would never be used to describe Sander Lak.
Instead, the creative director of Sies Marjan is upbeat, engaging, smart, sophisticated — and talented.
Lak, a former designer for Dries Van Noten, is the engine that has propelled the three-year-old brand squarely into the fashion spotlight. His romantic and colorful women’s wear is carried at some of the most discerning retailers around the world, including Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman, Ssense, Matches, Browns, Harvey Nichols, The Webster and so on.
One year after launching his women’s collection in 2016, the Dutch designer dipped his toe into the men’s arena, offering up a capsule with a similar sensibility that immediately took hold. And this week, Lak is going all in, showing his first full men’s collection on the runway during Paris Men’s Fashion Week.
Although Lak, who also worked with Balmain in Paris and Phillip Lim in New York, was trained as a men’s wear designer at Central Saint Martins, this is the first time he’s truly spreading his wings in the men’s arena.
Interestingly, Lak’s foray into men’s came as a result of creating pieces for himself that were not offered for sale. “It’s hard for me

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Moncler and Palm Angels Launch Second Genius Collection in SoHo

Moncler and Palm Angels celebrated the launch of 8 Moncler Palm Angels, the expanded second collection for Moncler Genius, with a party at the Moncler store on Prince Street in SoHo Thursday.
Designer Francesco Ragazzi traveled from London, where he hosted a party in Camden with rapper Octavian, to New York City to host another soiree that drew guests such as Ronnie Fieg, Vashtie Cola, Nigel Sylvester, Young Paris, model Zahara Davis, and Kerwin Frost on the turntables.
The first 8 Moncler Palm Angels collection launched in October 2018, but the second effort from Ragazzi is a much bigger collection. “The first one was more like merchandise for the Genius project, while this one is like my own collection so it’s much bigger,” Ragazzi told WWD at the launch party.

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The co-branded pieces, including down parkas, tracksuits, hoodies, and T-shirts, among other styles, feature graffiti, paint splatter, graphics, bright collage patterns and the phrase “mind control” on some styles. The “Palm Angels” graffiti tag that was seen throughout the store on mirrors, walls, and display windows is part of the collection’s theme of “Art Breaking.”
“I started with the idea of a vandalized art gallery,” said Ragazzi about the collection. “The purity of the

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-designer-luxury/moncler-and-palm-angels-launch-second-genius-collection-in-soho-1203158477/

      

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