Mens

Eric Emanuel Opens First Solo Pop-up in NoLIta

Eric Emanuel is stepping out on his own. Following collaborations with Adidas and New Era, the streetwear designer has opened the first pop-up shop under his own name at 251 Elizabeth Street in New York.
In November 2018, Emanuel worked with New Era on a pop-up for the brand’s MLB apparel, followed by another with Adidas for the rerelease of the Adidas Rivalry in January.
But this shop, which will be open for three weeks beginning today, will be his first solo foray. It carries Emanuel’s signature basketball shorts in solid colors and Andy Warhol cow wallpaper-inspired patterns and colors and trucker caps. New product will be released every Friday, beginning with the Adidas Rivalry low-top, the 1986 sneaker initially made in France for NBA Hall of Famer Patrick Ewing, and later mesh floral and plaid shooting shirts and matching shorts. Emanuel wants the pop-up to feel like a home, hence the pink couch, wooden floors and yellow striped walls adorned with artwork.

The Syracuse, N.Y.-native achieved instant success by producing snakeskin basketball jerseys that were worn by rappers Travis Scott, Post Malone, A$AP Rocky and Future, among others. Emanuel has since shifted his focus to basketball shorts.
“When I started making the product,

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Eric Lawrence Debuts Odessa 1919

Eric Lawrence is a name to watch. The Dallas native, who gained notoriety for his Anger fashion project, has unveiled his second fashion venture, Odessa 1919. The brand launches with a silver detailed update of the Nike Air Force I sneaker, which retails for $650 and is available for preorder starting today on the Odessa 1919 web site.
“I have a fascination of how opposites/dualities work together to create something new,” said Lawrence, who explained that Odessa represents the industrial Texas city where he grew up, while 1919 references the year German art school Staatliches Bauhaus was founded. “Both inspirations work together. The shoe is an example of this idea of duality — how two opposites come together to create something new.”
The idea came naturally to the young designer, who is based in New York City. “One day, I was putting silver tips on a pair of cowboy boots and I was seeing what it would look like on a sneaker. I grew up in Texas where kids went to school wearing cowboy boots. Before this, I was doing different projects under my name, but I knew at some point I wanted to start my passion project.”
Lawrence first grew interested in

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-fashion/eric-lawrence-launches-odessa-1203191158/

      

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Fisher + Baker to Sponsor Wayzata Match Cup Sailing Race

Fisher + Baker, a Minneapolis-based functional men’s brand, has become the official sponsor of the fourth annual Wayzata Match Cup sailing race on Lake Minnetonka in Wayzata, Minn.
The pro-am race, scheduled for June 20 to 23, is the final stop of the M32 World International Race Series’ North American winter series before the elite team of America’s Cup sailors head to Europe for the M32 World Summer Racing Series. The Wayzata Match Cup showcases the top America’s Cup teams competing in M32 catamarans on Lake Minnetonka. It’s part of the Lake Minnetonka Summer Splash and is held in conjunction with the Wayzata Art Experience & Bash for the Boardwalk that attracts more than 195,000 visitors to downtown Wayzata.
Fisher + Baker will outfit competitors in its Greenwich Anorak, a nautical-inspired jacket made from Ventile fabric, which was developed to protect Royal Air Force pilots from the elements. The company will also install a pop-up shop at the event.
Mike Arbeiter, president and chief executive officer of Fisher + Baker, said: “We are excited to partner with Wayzata Match Cup for a remarkable weekend of sailing in our Twin Cities community.”

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Cowboys, Y-Fronts and the New Drag: Brands to Check Out During Paris Men’s Week

PARIS — Paris men’s fashion week is having a moment: Hailing from Los Angeles, Sweden, China or Monaco, Rhude, Eytys, Li Ning and Alter are among the rising international brands that have been added to the official men’s calendar and presentation lineup this season.
GAMUT
Things are going pretty fast for Gamut, the fashion collective created in 2017 by former students of La Cambre fashion school in Brussels — which is surprising, because the seven French nationals are intent on taking their time.
“We’re continuing to experiment with the fashion calendar: We chose to skip fall 2019 to focus on our showroom, and realized that taking nine months to create a collection was a rhythm we quite liked,” said one of the members — all of whom prefer to remain anonymous — speaking at the collective’s studio at the Porte de la Chapelle, a somewhat sketchy area in the remote 18th arrondissement.
Since its first debut show last September, Gamut has added a photographer/visual director to its team, and landed a spot on the French couture federation’s official calendar for presentations. Now it’s behaving like full-fledged business with dedicated members in charge of sourcing, production, administration and communication. Decisions are still fully collegial, though.
“Each

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-fashion/paris-mens-week-rhude-eytys-gamut-li-ning-1203181364/

      

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Sander Lak Wants a Piece of Men’s Wear Pie for Sies Marjan

NEW YORK — Reserved, quiet, unassuming. These are words that would never be used to describe Sander Lak.
Instead, the creative director of Sies Marjan is upbeat, engaging, smart, sophisticated — and talented.
Lak, a former designer for Dries Van Noten, is the engine that has propelled the three-year-old brand squarely into the fashion spotlight. His romantic and colorful women’s wear is carried at some of the most discerning retailers around the world, including Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman, Ssense, Matches, Browns, Harvey Nichols, The Webster and so on.
One year after launching his women’s collection in 2016, the Dutch designer dipped his toe into the men’s arena, offering up a capsule with a similar sensibility that immediately took hold. And this week, Lak is going all in, showing his first full men’s collection on the runway during Paris Men’s Fashion Week.
Although Lak, who also worked with Balmain in Paris and Phillip Lim in New York, was trained as a men’s wear designer at Central Saint Martins, this is the first time he’s truly spreading his wings in the men’s arena.
Interestingly, Lak’s foray into men’s came as a result of creating pieces for himself that were not offered for sale. “It’s hard for me

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Moncler and Palm Angels Launch Second Genius Collection in SoHo

Moncler and Palm Angels celebrated the launch of 8 Moncler Palm Angels, the expanded second collection for Moncler Genius, with a party at the Moncler store on Prince Street in SoHo Thursday.
Designer Francesco Ragazzi traveled from London, where he hosted a party in Camden with rapper Octavian, to New York City to host another soiree that drew guests such as Ronnie Fieg, Vashtie Cola, Nigel Sylvester, Young Paris, model Zahara Davis, and Kerwin Frost on the turntables.
The first 8 Moncler Palm Angels collection launched in October 2018, but the second effort from Ragazzi is a much bigger collection. “The first one was more like merchandise for the Genius project, while this one is like my own collection so it’s much bigger,” Ragazzi told WWD at the launch party.

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The co-branded pieces, including down parkas, tracksuits, hoodies, and T-shirts, among other styles, feature graffiti, paint splatter, graphics, bright collage patterns and the phrase “mind control” on some styles. The “Palm Angels” graffiti tag that was seen throughout the store on mirrors, walls, and display windows is part of the collection’s theme of “Art Breaking.”
“I started with the idea of a vandalized art gallery,” said Ragazzi about the collection. “The purity of the

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-designer-luxury/moncler-and-palm-angels-launch-second-genius-collection-in-soho-1203158477/

      

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British Label Stefan Cooke Finds Its Voice, and Flies Solo, at London Fashion Week Men’s

LONDON — Stefan Cooke and Jake Burt, cofounders of the label Stefan Cooke and finalists for the LVMH Prize, are about to stage their first solo runway show on June 9 during London Men’s Fashion Week, and they’re feeling the heat. “It feels surreal to be doing it by ourselves. It also feels intimidating,” said Cooke, who has witnessed a shower of accolades over the past two years.
The brand has won the H&M Design Award and the L’Oréal Professional Creative Award, but Cooke and Burt will now have to wait until September to see if they’ve scooped the LVMH Prize.
Having shown under the Fashion East umbrella, the duo have moved on from conceptual to more commercially focused designs. The label is stocked at Machine-A, Dover Street Market and Matchesfashion.com.
Their lines for spring/summer 2020 have a more relaxed silhouette than in past seasons, where trousers and shirts were tight and cropped. They will also be introducing a new bag concept, a category that’s been performing well for the company.
As they build the brand, they’ve been asking themselves some difficult questions, such as: “How do you take all of the things that are Stefan Cooke, like textile manipulations, and turn them into

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Rip Up the Calendar: Men’s Show Weeks Are Not Working for Everyone

LONDON — Has the men’s wear industry outgrown its boots?
This is a golden moment for men’s wear, with flourishing sales, a fashion-loving generation of shoppers, and Instagram propelling sneaker-crazy young men into stores like never before. Despite it all, the seasonal men’s fashion calendars — with the exception of Paris — are shrinking.
The New York, London and Milan schedules have been shedding designers and brands for many reasons: Fashion houses have chosen the coed route, opted to show or present in different cities, take part in trade shows such as Pitti Uomo, or stage direct-to-consumer events, or digital shows.
Others have decided to take a step back and invest their marketing money elsewhere, refusing to be shackled to the runway — or the presentation space — season after season.
Christopher Raeburn, a longtime fixture on the London men’s calendar, has decided to pull out of the city’s spring/summer 2020 lineup, which runs from Saturday to June 10. He said he wants to explore new ways of engaging with his consumers and community.
“It is our job to disrupt, to capture and create a new mood,” said Raeburn, who last year was named global creative director of Timberland, and who continues to operate his

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Asos Parties at The Public to Close NYFW: Men’s

The Public Hotel was the place to be Wednesday evening because of Asos. The retailer closed NYFW: Men’s with a party at the trendy hotel’s Public Arts space.
Attendees were treated to a performance by Swae Lee, one half of rap duo Rae Sremmurd, who closed his set with a performance of his Billboard Hot 100 chart-topping song “Sunflower” from the “Spider-Man: Into the Spider-Verse” soundtrack. Around his performance, Mazurbate and DJ Ty Sunderland provided tunes to keep the party going.
Asos is never one to turn down a party. The retailer in April held an event at No Name in Los Angeles with Life Is Beautiful festival. The event marked the launch of Asos’ collection for the festival and their multiyear partnership as exclusive retail partner.

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CFDA Teams With Project for Designer Showcase at Vegas Show

The Council of Fashion Designers of America is expanding its association with the Project trade show, starting in August in Las Vegas.
The CFDA x Project initiative will bring five men’s wear designers to the show at the Las Vegas Convention Center within a new section called N:ow Lab, a concept space that will rotate each season. Project is moving from its longtime home at the Mandalay Bay Convention Center to join the women’s and footwear shows at the convention center from Aug. 12 through Aug. 14.
The designers participating in the first edition are Kenneth Nicholson, Lukhanyo Mdingi, NIHL, Sanchez-Kane and Willy Chavarria.
Mark Beckham, chief marketing officer of CFDA, said this initiative is intended to serve as a business platform, or “matchmaking,” for these designers to connect them with potential retail customers. It will not feature runway shows, but will be a “more commercial” push that will include networking events between the brands, retailers, media and influencers attending the show.
The designers were chosen to ensure they have the wherewithal to produce and deliver any orders they might receive from retailers at the show, he said.
“As the men’s wear industry grows, our partnership with Project further reinforces our mission to strengthen the

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Sterling Ruby: Pitti Uomo a ‘No Brainer’ to Debut Collection

IN THE SPOTLIGHT: Los Angeles artist Sterling Ruby gave away little about the ready-to-wear label he’s set to launch in June during a breakfast for the upcoming Pitti Uomo save for one detail: the dark denim pair of jeans he was wearing from S.R. Studio. LA. CA., which he paired with a black hoodie.
The only other hint that’s been stated publicly in an announcement on the collection is it is to serve as a reinterpretation of American workwear.
The L.A. artist is a special guest of the trade show, presenting his first apparel collection — some 10 years in the making — at a June 13 event.
Ruby stood before media and other guests just ahead of breakfast being served.
“I’ve been interested in making clothes…for some time and most of it has been just kind of a private endeavor,” he said. “For the most part, it’s been something very internal. But over the last 10 years, I’ve started to understand the desire and the reasons why I was doing this to begin with, and I also started to work with people in the fashion industry, in the garment industry, from both owners of big luxury houses to the youngest designers.”
That’s included a

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-fashion/sterling-ruby-talks-pitti-uomo-collection-launch-1203122250/

      

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Southern Tide, Reyn Spooner Partner on Capsule

Southern Tide is teaming with heritage Hawaiian surf brand Reyn Spooner on a special capsule collection for spring.
The Southern Tide x Reyn Spooner collection offers an updated take on the Aloha shirt and is being released today. The shirts will feature quick-dry technology, UV protection and moisture-wicking properties.
Lynne Koplin, chief executive officer of Reyn Spooner, said the collection “combines the Aloha and Southern state of mind…by embracing new technology while maintaining our brand’s rich heritage.” Reyn Spooner was founded in 1956.
Christopher Heyn, ceo of Southern Tide, said, “The Southern Tide x Reyn Spooner collection was a long time in the making. Reyn Spooner’s inspiration has stayed with me over the years, and we’ve been waiting for the right time to collaborate with this legacy brand. The collaboration was very well received during market especially with our specialty accounts and destination markets.”
Top wholesale sellers included the Island Time Sport Shirt, Floral Sport Shirt, Wave Print Polo and the Floral Swim, he said.
The collection of sport shirts, polos, T-shirts, swimwear and children’s wear will be sold at specialty retailers as well as at Southern Tide Signature Stores and online. They will retail for $32 to $110.

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Untuckit Partners With Fair Harbor on Eco-friendly Swimwear

Untuckit is unveiling its first collaboration — one that’s good for the planet.
The men’s wear brand has partnered with Fair Harbor, a sustainable swimwear brand that creates products from post-consumer recycled plastic bottles, on a co-designed collection.
This exclusive collection of eco-conscious swimsuits includes six styles, each made from 11 plastic bottles that have been collected from oceans and beaches. The collection features three of Fair Harbor’s classic fits in six colorways, including a board short in red and blue with a water photoprint and a swim trunk in blue stripes and a beach wave photoprint by surf photographer Mike Nelson.

“We’re excited to be partnering with Fair Harbor, an incredible brand whose inspiring mission has resulted in such a great swimwear collection,” said Aaron Sanadres, cofounder and chief executive officer of Untuckit. “We’re looking forward to helping them develop their business, especially as they’re in their early stages, while learning from them how to become a more eco-conscious company ourselves. We couldn’t have picked a better first-collaboration partner.”
At the same time, Untuckit has gone the extra mile to help Fair Harbor grow its business by inviting its executive team to be housed at Untuckit’s headquarters. In return, Fair Harbor will

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Minnesota United Links With Ebbets for Limited-Edition Capsule

Minnesota United has teamed with Ebbets Field Flannels, the American vintage athletic apparel brand, for a limited-edition capsule collection that drops on Friday.
The collection features three styles: a gray fitted cap with the Minnesota United word mark, a black fitted look featuring the Minnesota United logo, and a charcoal adjustable hat that features l’étoile du nord, which is a French phrase meaning “The Star of the North.” It is the motto of the state of Minnesota and accompanied by the Minnesota United FC star. Product will only be available online on ebbets.com and while supplies last. The price point of the collection is $50.

The collaboration between MNUFC and Ebbets began through the common interest in creating a collection that would give fans the opportunity to own a unique piece of the club’s history, according to Rachel Leber, vice president of consumer products at Major League Soccer. “We hope that the collection appeals to both Minnesota United supporters and fans of Ebbets Field Flannels.”
World-class soccer stadiums have been a key focus of Major League Soccer. Minnesota United FC’s Allianz Field opens this season, becoming the league’s 20th stadium built or transformed for soccer. The collection celebrates the opening of the $250 million state-of-the-art

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Minnesota United Links With Ebbets for Limited-Edition Capsule

Minnesota United has teamed with Ebbets Field Flannels, the American vintage athletic apparel brand, for a limited-edition capsule collection that drops on Friday.
The collection features three styles: a gray fitted cap with the Minnesota United word mark, a black fitted look featuring the Minnesota United logo, and a charcoal adjustable hat that features l’étoile du nord, which is a French phrase meaning “The Star of the North.” It is the motto of the state of Minnesota and accompanied by the Minnesota United FC star. Product will only be available online on ebbets.com and while supplies last. The price point of the collection is $50.

The collaboration between MNUFC and Ebbets began through the common interest in creating a collection that would give fans the opportunity to own a unique piece of the club’s history, according to Rachel Leber, vice president of consumer products at Major League Soccer. “We hope that the collection appeals to both Minnesota United supporters and fans of Ebbets Field Flannels.”
World-class soccer stadiums have been a key focus of Major League Soccer. Minnesota United FC’s Allianz Field opens this season, becoming the league’s 20th stadium built or transformed for soccer. The collection celebrates the opening of the $250 million state-of-the-art

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-clothing-furnishings/minnesota-united-links-with-ebbets-for-limited-edition-capsule-1203104533/

      

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Mizzen + Main CEO to Depart, Stitch Fix Exec to Take Helm

Mizzen + Main turned to Stitch Fix to find its next chief.
The Dallas-based online men’s wear brand has tapped Chris Phillips, the head of men’s and children’s wear at Stitch Fix, to replace Kevin Lavelle, its founder and ceo. Lavelle will be leaving Mizzen + Main to join The Seminar Network, part of the Koch political network in Washington, according to CNBC, which first reported the news.
Lavelle said he had no plans to leave the company he started in 2012, but when the Koch family reached out to him about joining The Seminar Network, a business that brings together social entrepreneurs to improve the world, he decided to take the plunge.
“It was a shocking request, but they have ambitious goals to make a significant impact on society,” Lavelle said, adding that their mission “aligns with how I view the world.”
So he set out to find someone to succeed him. “I believe we’ve found the absolute perfect person to take this company to the next level,” he said. “I’m actually more excited about the future with a seasoned retail operator on board.”
Lavelle said he will continue to be involved with Mizzen + Main as chairman and an investor. He will remain

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In the Spotlight: French Deal

Brand: French Deal
Backstory: Steeven Kodjia, a former professional hip-hop dancer, used to shop the vintage shops of New York searching out the most unique streetwear pieces he could find and resell them when he returned home to France. He soon attracted a following who appreciated his taste and eye for the unusual. And so in 2010, Kodjia decided it was time for him to create his own brand, one that would speak to a couture hip-hop customer — a market he didn’t feel was being addressed. He teamed up with Ian Mahinmi of the Washington Wizards, and Ousmane Dabo, a former soccer champion, to create French Deal that next year. The three share not only an affinity for high-end streetwear, but a common heritage: they’re all originally from West Africa and grew up in France, giving them a similar sensibility and purpose. The brand, which is custom only, soon gained a foothold with celebrities such as Khalid, Maejor, Quincy Brown, Evan Ross, and Ne-Yo, as well as several NBA athletes, including Mahinmi’s teammates Otto Porter, Tomas Satoransky and John Wall, and NFL player Victor Cruz. “From the beginning, I wanted a brand that told our story and that I could

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EXCLUSIVE: Louis Wong Named Creative Director of Editions M.R

PARIS — Parisian men’s wear label Editions M.R has chosen Louis Wong as its first official creative director.
The French designer, who is best known for his work at A.P.C., joined the ready-to-wear company in March, and will present his first collection for the brand during Paris Fashion Week: Men’s in June.
“When Louis and I met, I immediately felt we shared this common sensibility,” said Mathieu de Ménonville, who cofounded Editions M.R in 2010 (formerly named Melinda Gloss.) “I’m hoping his creative direction will lead to developing more fabrics and styles, but will also add a touch of eccentricity and bring a fresh outlook to the brand.”
After a stint at Louis Vuitton’s men’s studio working under Marc Jacobs, Wong, 42, spent 15 years at A.P.C., collaborating with Jean Touitou on the men’s and women’s lines. In 2011, the French designer launched his own men’s line at A.P.C., named Louis W.
“I am fond of the ultraclassic French aesthetic that Mathieu embodies,” said Wong. “And I like the relaxed feel, the refined proportions. The idea is to push a radical but subtle eccentricity while staying true to the roots of Editions M.R.”
Collections were designed in-house prior to Wong’s nomination. In the brand’s early

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-fashion/exclusive-louis-wong-named-creative-director-of-editions-m-r-1203100790/

      

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Bennett Winch Pops Up in Turnbull & Asser

It’s nice to have friends in high places.
When Robin Bennett and Robin Winch of the Bennett Winch accessories brand were looking for the right spot to test the U.S. market, Jonathan Baker, managing director of Turnbull & Asser, offered them a prime location right inside the entrance of the brand’s town house on 57th Street.
They jumped at the chance, and last Thursday night, they invited some 100-plus customers and friends to the location between Madison and Park Avenues for cocktails to celebrate their arrival.
“We sold four bags [at the event],” Bennett said, “so it looks like there’s an appetite for it.”
He said New York is the brand’s second-best market outside the U.K. and eventually they’d like to open a permanent space in the city. But for now, they’re happy to just settle in for 10 weeks at Turnbull & Asser.
Bennett Winch launched in 2015 and offers weekenders, totes, briefcases, backpacks and a unique garment bag/holdall in canvas or leather. The best-selling item is the weekender, the brand’s first and now signature product that is handmade in England using bonded canvas, military-grade cotton webbing, leather detailing and an interior with pockets for a laptop as well as a separate compartment for wet

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MEN’S FORUM: The Whitaker Group’s James Whitner Relies on Instinct and Close Consumer Connections to Stay Ahead

For The Whitaker Group’s founder James Whitner, being the consumer is essential to knowing the consumer.
With an assortment of stores via his company’s four retail entities — Social Status, A.P.B., Prosper and A Ma Maniére — Whitner emphasized the importance of being submerged with the people you are trying to connect with. He asked, “Are you focused on the consumer? Do you know who the consumer is and why? Most people don’t. You’re casting a wide net in men’s wear…I’m the guy. I’m the guy who’s buying the stuff and wearing the stuff.”
Aside from anticipating what his shoppers want, Whitner spoke of how he tries to design spaces that they will emotionally respond to. “I’m always trying to re-create the places and spaces I’ve been in. I feel like I have a romantic affair with the consumer in the process. Can someone cue the music? [Romantic tunes follow.] When I walk into a store, this is how I feel. I’m being romanced by the romance,” he said.
Referring to outdated business practices that can’t keep up with quick fire social media and fashion’s rapid speed of change, Whitner said, “You’ve got to set your businesses up to move like we move.

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-retail-business/mens-forum-the-whitaker-groups-james-whitner-relies-on-instinct-and-close-consumer-connections-to-stay-ahead-1203096348/

      

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