Mens

STREET SIGNS: Renowned Retools, Reemerges Ready for Future

All it takes is one item to help propel a brand forward. John Dean knows that feeling well.
The founder and chief executive officer of Los Angeles-based streetwear brand Renowned started his company when he was still in Ohio in high school, selling a $10 shirt with a somewhat crudely drawn “Renowned” on it. It wasn’t until a T-shirt he sent to Chris Brown’s stylist ended up being worn by Brown on the cover of Nylon in 2013 that the brand gained notoriety.
“I didn’t know how the game worked where brands send boxes and boxes of clothes to celebrities,” Dean said. “I sent one T-shirt. I didn’t know any better, but he wore it on the cover of Nylon. It really caused a spark. We went from not knowing what wholesale was to being in 20 stores.”
He ultimately decided to stop studying business marketing his junior year of college, opting instead to drive four days to Los Angeles to focus on building his business. Brown continued to wear Renowned and, in 2015, the two teamed for the rapper’s “Between the Sheets” tour, for which Dean designed all the merchandise, in addition to Brown’s onstage pieces.
Reality settled in and, while buyers were

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DXL Posts Higher Losses in Q4, Will Close Rochester Stores

The losses at Destination XL Group continued to mount in the fourth quarter, despite higher comparable-store sales. But a new wholesale strategy and a new chief executive officer are expected to help the company improve its fortunes in 2019.
At the same time, the company revealed that it will close the remaining five Rochester Clothing stores — a more-upscale brand that it acquired in 2004 — by the end of the fiscal year.
In an earnings call Friday morning, David Levin, acting chief executive officer, said: “The growth in our DXL brand has slowly eroded the sales volume and profitability in our remaining Rochester, N.Y., stores, which are located in high rent metro areas.
“Much of our Rochester assortment will continue to be available on DXL.com and many Rochester brands can be found in DXL stores. With the exception of London, all of our Rochester stores are located in markets within close proximity to one or more DXL stores. In the U.S. we’re working on a customer transfer strategy to encourage our Rochester customers to migrate to nearby DXL stores, and we’re confident that once our Rochester customers discover the DXL experience they will become DXL loyalists.”
On Friday morning, the Canton, Mass.-based men’s

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STREET STYLE: Peaches Looks to New Capital to Support Growth

LOS ANGELES — A car buff and restaurateur have entered the streetwear fray with an interesting proposition, creating an urban label inspired by car culture.
Peaches, which has one foot in South Korea and another in Los Angeles, last year raised about $550,000 through angel investors and is in the midst of raising its Series A, expected to close this month and land somewhere in the range of $1.5 million to $3 million. The capital infusion will be used to open a store on Fairfax Avenue as early as the end of this year at the site of a former gas station, which will be incorporated into the overall design of the space. There will also be a car warehouse in Orange County opening this year that would serve as a hangout of sorts for the core car consumer to come in and check out the cars being built.
The company is currently direct-to-consumer online, but will eventually expand into wholesale with higher-end boutiques.
Pop-ups to test into the South Korean and U.K. markets are also slated for this year.
The slated retail and warehouse openings speak to the duality of the Peaches brand.
“Opening the store on Fairfax, that’s a very street fashion and

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Bloomingdale’s Introducing Dylan Gray Men’s Brand for Spring

Bloomingdale’s is getting back into the men’s private brand business.
A decade after the retailer retired its in-house collections brands, Joseph & Lyman and Metropolitan View, in favor of a classifications strategy, it is launching a bridge collection for spring under the name Dylan Gray.
The line is described as “a modern, sophisticated update on classic men’s sportswear that fuses the elegance of European luxury with the ease of American sportswear.”
The 38-piece collection of soft tailored clothing, transitional outerwear, knits and trousers is manufactured predominantly in Europe. It is designed to be a hybrid of tailored and sportswear.
“We felt there was a white space in the European transitional classic zone in our stores,” said Dan Leppo, executive vice president and general merchandise manager of men’s and home for Bloomingdale’s. “We think there’s an opportunity with all that’s happening in direct-to-consumer today to offer great value and great fashion that moves beyond commodity.”
Leppo said Dylan Gray is “made with the modern man in mind, offering solutions for work or play for today’s smart casual lifestyle, without sacrificing style. It’s about fusing classic sportswear with Old World sophistication at a compelling price point.”
Prices will range from $98 to $698 and will include marled bird’s-eye polos,

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Paolo Martorano: The Millennial Bespoke Tailor

Paolo Martorano is an old soul.
A self-professed nerd who would rather spend his free time researching the origins of bespoke clothing than go to a football game, Martorano has developed the skills of a true artisan but is only 27 years old.
The Bellmore, N.Y., native comes from a long line of tailors, four generations deep on his father’s side, and started learning the ropes when he was in high school, working as an apprentice for Alan Flusser.
“In grade school, for whatever reason, I was always worried about being underdressed,” he said. “While browsing a bookstore in my early teens, I spied Alan Flusser’s seminal ‘Dressing the Man,’ and it literally stopped me in my tracks. My parents couldn’t understand my obsession and weren’t about to give me the money to buy the book. So, I started researching the subject on the Internet, got my first job, and purchased the book with my first paycheck.”
He moved on to Paul Stuart, where he helped quadruple the retailer’s made-to-measure and bespoke business during his seven-year stint. He then joined Dunhill as its bespoke/made-to-measure specialist for America. But in the fall of 2017, with the urging of several customers, he decided to branch out

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Beverly Hills Men’s Suiting Veteran Jumps to Avedon

Stuart Newmark, the longtime general manager of the now-shuttered men’s retailer Carroll & Co., has created a new customization concept within existing retailer Avedon in Beverly Hills with the help of senior buyer and partner in the business Nancy Herrera.
Newmark, who served as general manager of Carroll & Co. for more than 30 years, teamed with Avedon owners Reza Shekarchian and Yasmine Farmanara on a lounge concept called Bespoke at Avedon. The deal merges his buying prowess with that of Shekarchian to merchandise the men’s store.
Carroll & Co. began a store closing sale late last year, shuttering its doors for good after the Carroll family received an offer they couldn’t refuse on the building the retailer occupied. Carroll & Co. had long been a mainstay in Beverly Hills, once frequented by high-profile A-listers such as Frank Sinatra, Cary Grant and Jack Lemmon.
Newmark, still seeing a demand for customization and luxury men’s brands, spotted a hole in the market with Carroll & Co.’s closure.
“It’s still viable. We had a huge custom business, which is also a big part of what I’m doing here, along with carrying inventory similar to what we did there,” said Newmark, who was hired in 1989 by

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Herno’s New Showroom Seen as Key to Increasing U.S. Sales

NEW YORK – Herno is stepping up its efforts to expand in the U.S. market.
The Italian luxury outerwear brand has opened a permanent showroom on Varick Street in Tribeca to better service its existing customers — which include Neiman Marcus, Barneys New York, Nordstrom and Mitchell — and others seeking a sartorial alternative to the ubiquitous Canada Goose and Moncler puffers.
Herno has had a small presence in the U.S. in the past and had been represented by the M5 Showroom, which is located in the same building. But now Claudio Marenzi, president and chief executive officer, has moved a few floors down and opened a cleanly designed space where the brand can present its full offering of men’s, women’s and children’s coats hanging on hooks similar to how they are displayed in its retail stores.
Herno is sharing the floor with Woolrich. Although the two brands have no professional affiliation, Marenzi said they are friendly competitors with a mutual respect. Both firms had been represented by M5 and wanted to have their own space, so it was a practical decision.
Marenzi said that over the past five years the U.S. has grown to represent a larger chunk of Herno’s business. It now

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Kim Herring to Head Design for Culturata Brand

Kim Herring, a men’s wear veteran who served most recently as vice president of men’s private brand at Saks Fifth Avenue, has joined Culturata as chief creative officer for wholesale. He will be responsible for designing and presenting the seasonal collections for the brand while expanding its categories to create a full lifestyle offering. His first collection will be for spring 2020.
At the same time, Culturata’s founders and design partners Jacques Haggiag and Nadine Price will be leaving the brand, but will continue to consult with the label to ensure consistency, the company said.
In 2015, Culturata, a Canadian sport shirt brand, was purchased by Grano Retail Holding’s Luxury Men’s Apparel Group subsidiary, which also operates Hickey Freeman and Samuelsohn.
“At LMAG, we have always wanted to work with Kim Herring, who we consider one of the premier sportswear design talents in North America,” said Stephen Granovsky, chairman and chief executive officer of LMAG. “When Jacques and Nadine advised us that they wanted to pursue other interests, and Kim departed Saks, we jumped at the opportunity to secure Kim for Culturata. I wish Jacques and Nadine well in their future endeavors.”
Herring said he was drawn to the “great richness and texture to

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Tata Accessories Expanding Capacity by 30 Percent

Tata Accessories Globales, the world’s largest men’s and women’s belt factory and an affiliate of Randa Accessories, is expanding its facility by nearly one-third and beefing up its workforce. The move is intended to “meet the growing demand for accessories’ top-performing category,” the company said.
As part of the expansion, Tata has invested in new state-of-the-art equipment and technologies to improve the quality of the product, speed up production and reduce costs.
“Due to our success over the last few years, we are increasing our facility footprint by 30 percent, nearly doubling our workforce, and exploding our annual production capacity to 18 million belts,” said Rodrigo Toledo, president of Tata. The company will now employ more than 1,000 people.
Because of its location in Guatemala, Tata also provides an option for North American brands and retailers seeking the benefits of nearshoring. Manufacturing in that country takes advantage of the Central America Free Trade Agreement, which does not levy duty or tariffs on products imported into the U.S. It also cuts shipping time to one week from the four or more required to import product from Asia.
“Tata provides our retail and brand partners with a competitive advantage,” said Judy Person, executive vice president and

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Tailored Brands Needs Major Overhaul to Improve Results

Tailored Brands managed to reverse year-ago losses in the fourth quarter, but is still struggling with a serious slowdown in sales, one that is going to require a major transformation to improve.
“This is not business as usual and we are not accepting the status quo,” Dinesh Lathi, executive chairman, said on an analysts’ call Wednesday afternoon.
Lathi said the company needs to change — and quickly — to offer more personalized products and services, a better omnichannel experience and fewer promotions in favor of more “brand stories.”
Lahti was highly critical of former management, saying the company’s issues have “roots in a degree of historical under-investment and [inability to keep] pace with an evolving customer.”
He said the company does “some things well, but we have considerable work to do in order to be considered great. There are examples where we have relied on [our market position] instead of investing to build on our leading position in the category.”
Lahti slipped into the top slot at the company last year upon the retirement of former chief executive officer Doug Ewert. Although a ceo search is ongoing, sources expect Lahti will eventually be named to the position.
In the past six months, Lahti said he has

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Bestseller Opens Permanent U.S. Showroom in SoHo

Bestseller, the Danish apparel conglomerate behind the Selected Homme, Jack & Jones, Vero Moda and Only brands, has opened its first permanent showroom in the U.S. in SoHo. The company had previously operated a temporary space in Midtown.
The 7,500-square-foot space at 96 Spring Street was designed by architecture firm Loda Design, and features a floor-through, loft-like design that blends the original architecture of the building with a design inspired from the company’s headquarters in Aarhus, Denmark. Each brand is given its own distinct space within the showroom.
Bestseller is a family-owned apparel and accessories company founded by Troels Holch Povlsen in 1975. It produces 20 brands that are sold in some 15,000 retailers in 70 markets and operates 3,000 branded stores across the globe.
The opening of the New York showroom is part of a larger strategy to expand the company’s reach in North America.
According to Brian Edgar, president of Bestseller North America, the new showroom “showcases our brands’ DNA more accurately, which helps elevate our presence in the marketplace. The space is much larger than our previous one allowing us to really show what each Bestseller brand can offer.”

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Quarterback Jared Goff Named Banana Republic Ambassador

Banana Republic has named Jared Goff, quarterback for the Los Angeles Rams, as its latest brand ambassador.
The two-time NFL Pro Bowl selection and the fastest number-one overall draft pick in the history of the League to advance to the Super Bowl will help shine a light on the company’s performance-driven men’s collections by appearing in advertising campaigns, making public appearances and promoting the relationship on social media and through activations.
He will also serve on Banana Republic Men’s Style Council, a group of stylish professional athletes created by the company in 2017 to highlight its performance apparel. Others in that group include quarterback Matt Ryan, pro baseball shortstop Didi Gregorius, pro basketball guard C.J. McCollum and pro-basketball power forward Kevin Love.
“Banana Republic is a premiere destination for modern men’s wear designed for a life with no boundaries,” said Banana Republic’s chief marketing officer Mary Alderete. “Jared has become a fan of our pieces over the past year, so making this official was a natural next step. We’re excited to welcome him to the BR family and add his confident sense of style to our men’s playbook.”
The first campaign creative featuring Goff will launch in the summer, timed to coincide with key

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Hanes Celebrating Michael Jordan With Trading Card Promotion

Hanes is celebrating the 30th anniversary of its partnership with Michael Jordan by putting special trading cards into 800,000 packages of its Comfort Flex Fit boxer briefs.
And 10 of those packs will actually be signed by the basketball legend.
Jordan and Hanes first teamed up in 1989 when the athlete scored his 10,000th point and hit “The Shot” at the buzzer in game five of the NBA playoffs against the Cleveland Cavaliers to give his Chicago Bulls the win.
“Michael has always had his pick of brands to endorse, and we are incredibly honored that he has chosen to stay with ours for the past three decades,” said Sidney Falken, chief branding officer of Hanesbrands. “This is one of the longest-running and most successful partnerships of its type to date — a powerful statement about Michael and Hanes.”
A total of 170 different Fleer trading cards have been produced by The Upper Deck Company, each with a photo of Jordan from one of his Hanes advertisements. They are packaged in five-card packs.
“Through the years, we’ve certainly benefited from Michael’s enduring popularity with such a wide audience,” Falken added. “MJ continues to be one of the most recognizable people in the world, and we’re thrilled

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Jos. A. Bank Reopens New York Flagship With Updated Design

NEW YORK — Jos. A. Bank has taken the wraps off a store design that is intended to be a more visible statement of its brand positioning.
The 13,800-square-foot flagship on Madison Avenue and 46th Street had been closed since June for the revamp and had a soft reopening on Tuesday. The official opening event is on March 19.
“We wanted our flagship in New York to represent a unique space as iconic as Madison Avenue,” said Mary Beth Blake, brand president for the Jos. A. Bank division of Tailored Brands Inc. The retailer was founded in 1905 in Baltimore and purchased by Tailored Brands, the former Men’s Wearhouse, in 2014.
The Madison Avenue store opened in 1994 and had not undergone a revamp for 25 years, Blake said.
The first hint that something has changed is seen on the awnings, which tout “the new tradition” that will be found inside. Upon entering, the customer finds 17-foot-high ceilings, custom furniture and fixtures in rich brown woods, Corian stone tops, brushed copper hardware and antique mirrors. Features intended to speak to the brand’s heritage include metallic wall coverings and architectural ornaments as well as a map of Baltimore on the walls of the staircase.
The main

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Opportunity Abounds in Los Angeles for Indochino

SANTA MONICA — Indochino continues to grow at a rapid clip, most notably in the Los Angeles area where the company on Wednesday opened its newest store in Santa Monica.
The 2,300-square-foot showroom at Santa Monica Place will be followed by additional stores locally on Melrose Avenue and up north in Sacramento. The company, by the end of the year, will have seven California showrooms.
“The business is growing quite rapidly,” president and chief executive officer Drew Green said, adding the company between 2016 and 2018 grew at a compounded annual growth rate of 55 percent. “What we’ve seen is New York is our number-one market and we’ve heavily invested in New York. California represents a big opportunity. We invested in San Francisco on Post [Street]. We’ve got the showroom in Beverly Hills and now we’re going to continue to really expand in California.”
Santa Monica marks the company’s 41st showroom with another 11 in production. The company will likely launch another 20 showrooms in 2020 bringing the total count to more than 70 in the U.S. and Canada, Green said.
Santa Monica will serve the large customer base in the area, with showroom location openings data driven.
Elsewhere in the U.S., Indochino’s 2,234-square-foot Boston

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Steve Aoki Collaborates With Travel Accessories Brand Fūl

For the guy on the go, travel and gear accessories brand Fūl has unveiled a range of accessories — a collaboration with Grammy-nominated DJ and producer Steve Aoki called the “Fūl-Aoki” collection.
Fūl, originally founded by Justin Timberlake in 2004 and now owned by Concept One Accessories, has carved out a space in the travel category with backpacks, belt bags and travel gear inspired by the nomadic life of a musician but curated for anyone with an active lifestyle.
“Steve and I had been talking about doing something together for Fūl over the past couple of years,” said Sam Hafif, chief executive officer of the accessories brand. “Travel is such a big part of his life. No one I know travels as extensively as he does, so his vision for the product and how it should function comes from a unique personal experience.”

Grammy-nominated DJ and musician Steve Aoki.
Brian Ziff

The line takes a cue from the streetwear scene and Aoki’s personal style, and splits into two distinct directions. The first is the “street” collection which is comprised of five backpacks and one waist pack, and features caribiners for headphones, multiple pockets for cables, thick padded laptop sleeves, and ergonomic shoulder straps. “For the

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Hickey Freeman Creates Capsule for 120th Anniversary

NEW YORK — This year marks the 120th anniversary of Hickey Freeman and the brand is creating a special capsule collection for fall to commemorate the milestone.
The brand, which is owned by Authentic Brands Group and licensed to Grano Retail Investments, will celebrate the anniversary in September.
Hickey was founded by two young entrepreneurs, Jacob Freeman and Jeremiah Hickey, in Rochester, N.Y., who manufactured suits for men and boys. Over the years, the brand has survived many ownership changes but its reputation as a purveyor of high-quality, American-made men’s wear continues to this day.
Most recently, Hickey has seen its chief creative director shift from Arnold Silverstone to Aliya Moorehead, who has been elevated to vice president of design and merchandising. Moorehead, a Greensboro, N.C.-native who had worked hand-in-hand with Silverstone for the past five years, has a rich men’s wear background that also includes six years with Joseph Abboud.
Silverstone has transitioned to work more closely with Grano’s other tailored clothing brand, Samuelsohn.
In a presentation at Hickey’s Madison Avenue showroom, Moorehead said that in preparing for the 120th anniversary, she started to research men’s wear from the Twenties. “We did a little vintage shopping,” she said, adding that the Twenties “were a great era

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Brooks Brothers to Debut New Design at Hudson Yards Store

Count Brooks Brothers as among the retailers ready to take the plunge at Manhattan’s new retail destination: Hudson Yards.
When the 2,500-square-foot store opens in April, it will mark the debut of a new global interior design concept that will blend archival architectural elements inspired by the flagship at 346 Madison with modern design features. The store will have a teal and dark blue color scheme with light gray lacquered fixtures and rosewood paneling. Cabinetry and display racks will be trimmed in brushed brass, furniture will have a midcentury modern design and there will be a large sculptural chandelier. Flooring is in ash oak herringbone parquetry paired with mosaic marble.
The store will offer both Brooks Brothers’ flagship collection as well as the higher-priced Golden Fleece line and the women’s collection designed by Zac Posen. There will also be a dedicated area for made-to-measure clothing.
“We are excited for the opening of Brooks Brothers at Hudson Yards as the development is one of the most ambitious and exciting retail projects in New York City history, further demonstrating our brands’ commitment to innovation in all aspects,” said Claudio Del Vecchio, chairman and chief executive officer.
Brooks Brothers last year celebrated its 200th anniversary. In addition

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Paul Stuart Unveils Opening Price Point Made-to-Measure

Paul Stuart is fighting back against the proliferation of low-cost made-to-measure men’s wear.
The upscale New York-based specialty retailer has quietly launched CustomLab, an initiative that taps into its 80-plus years of expertise creating and selling men’s apparel as well as the large fleet of on-site tailors at its Madison Avenue flagship.
“We’d been talking a lot about what we could do to compete with all the other retailers who have launched made-to-order at an opening price point,” said chief executive officer Paulette Garafalo. That includes companies such as Suitsupply, Indochino, Knot Standard, My.Suit and others. Even more long-standing competitors such as Men’s Wearhouse have embraced this popular category, with many offering customized suits for as low as $400.
“We felt we were losing momentum and wanted to continue to be relevant and give the consumer what he wants,” Garafalo said.
So the Paul Stuart team put their heads together and came up with the concept that brings the opening price suit in the store down to $995 with a three- to four-week turnaround. Also available are sport coats starting at $695 and shirts at $195.
An off-the-rack suit at Paul Stuart starts at $1,595 and most retail for $1,895 to $1,995. Bespoke garments sell for

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Dunhill to Spotlight New Brand Positioning in U.S.

The Alfred Dunhill brand can trace its roots all the way back to 1893 but its presence in the U.S. market over the years has been spotty at best.
In the Fifties, the London-based brand operated major stores on Rodeo Drive in Los Angeles and Rockefeller Center in New York and counted celebrities such as Frank Sinatra as fans.
But it slowly lost its grip on the market as management changed, stores closed and the brand cycled through a number of designers including Richard James, Nick Ashley, John Ray and Kim Jones.
Enter Andrew Maag, a former Burberry executive who joined the brand at the end of 2017 and promptly set out to “right size” the business and redirect its focus back to its core business. “We were really missing the mark in the luxury space,” he said. “But we’re just now experiencing a turnaround.”
That has been helped in large part by the positive reaction to the modern tailoring created by the company’s new creative director, Mark Weston.
At the same time, Maag said that since joining the company, one of his major focuses has been updating the fleet of stores. “They desperately needed to be brought up to relevant standards,” he said.
Next month,

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