Mens

Sterling Ruby: Pitti Uomo a ‘No Brainer’ to Debut Collection

IN THE SPOTLIGHT: Los Angeles artist Sterling Ruby gave away little about the ready-to-wear label he’s set to launch in June during a breakfast for the upcoming Pitti Uomo save for one detail: the dark denim pair of jeans he was wearing from S.R. Studio. LA. CA., which he paired with a black hoodie.
The only other hint that’s been stated publicly in an announcement on the collection is it is to serve as a reinterpretation of American workwear.
The L.A. artist is a special guest of the trade show, presenting his first apparel collection — some 10 years in the making — at a June 13 event.
Ruby stood before media and other guests just ahead of breakfast being served.
“I’ve been interested in making clothes…for some time and most of it has been just kind of a private endeavor,” he said. “For the most part, it’s been something very internal. But over the last 10 years, I’ve started to understand the desire and the reasons why I was doing this to begin with, and I also started to work with people in the fashion industry, in the garment industry, from both owners of big luxury houses to the youngest designers.”
That’s included a

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Southern Tide, Reyn Spooner Partner on Capsule

Southern Tide is teaming with heritage Hawaiian surf brand Reyn Spooner on a special capsule collection for spring.
The Southern Tide x Reyn Spooner collection offers an updated take on the Aloha shirt and is being released today. The shirts will feature quick-dry technology, UV protection and moisture-wicking properties.
Lynne Koplin, chief executive officer of Reyn Spooner, said the collection “combines the Aloha and Southern state of mind…by embracing new technology while maintaining our brand’s rich heritage.” Reyn Spooner was founded in 1956.
Christopher Heyn, ceo of Southern Tide, said, “The Southern Tide x Reyn Spooner collection was a long time in the making. Reyn Spooner’s inspiration has stayed with me over the years, and we’ve been waiting for the right time to collaborate with this legacy brand. The collaboration was very well received during market especially with our specialty accounts and destination markets.”
Top wholesale sellers included the Island Time Sport Shirt, Floral Sport Shirt, Wave Print Polo and the Floral Swim, he said.
The collection of sport shirts, polos, T-shirts, swimwear and children’s wear will be sold at specialty retailers as well as at Southern Tide Signature Stores and online. They will retail for $32 to $110.

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Untuckit Partners With Fair Harbor on Eco-friendly Swimwear

Untuckit is unveiling its first collaboration — one that’s good for the planet.
The men’s wear brand has partnered with Fair Harbor, a sustainable swimwear brand that creates products from post-consumer recycled plastic bottles, on a co-designed collection.
This exclusive collection of eco-conscious swimsuits includes six styles, each made from 11 plastic bottles that have been collected from oceans and beaches. The collection features three of Fair Harbor’s classic fits in six colorways, including a board short in red and blue with a water photoprint and a swim trunk in blue stripes and a beach wave photoprint by surf photographer Mike Nelson.

“We’re excited to be partnering with Fair Harbor, an incredible brand whose inspiring mission has resulted in such a great swimwear collection,” said Aaron Sanadres, cofounder and chief executive officer of Untuckit. “We’re looking forward to helping them develop their business, especially as they’re in their early stages, while learning from them how to become a more eco-conscious company ourselves. We couldn’t have picked a better first-collaboration partner.”
At the same time, Untuckit has gone the extra mile to help Fair Harbor grow its business by inviting its executive team to be housed at Untuckit’s headquarters. In return, Fair Harbor will

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Minnesota United Links With Ebbets for Limited-Edition Capsule

Minnesota United has teamed with Ebbets Field Flannels, the American vintage athletic apparel brand, for a limited-edition capsule collection that drops on Friday.
The collection features three styles: a gray fitted cap with the Minnesota United word mark, a black fitted look featuring the Minnesota United logo, and a charcoal adjustable hat that features l’étoile du nord, which is a French phrase meaning “The Star of the North.” It is the motto of the state of Minnesota and accompanied by the Minnesota United FC star. Product will only be available online on ebbets.com and while supplies last. The price point of the collection is $50.

The collaboration between MNUFC and Ebbets began through the common interest in creating a collection that would give fans the opportunity to own a unique piece of the club’s history, according to Rachel Leber, vice president of consumer products at Major League Soccer. “We hope that the collection appeals to both Minnesota United supporters and fans of Ebbets Field Flannels.”
World-class soccer stadiums have been a key focus of Major League Soccer. Minnesota United FC’s Allianz Field opens this season, becoming the league’s 20th stadium built or transformed for soccer. The collection celebrates the opening of the $250 million state-of-the-art

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Minnesota United Links With Ebbets for Limited-Edition Capsule

Minnesota United has teamed with Ebbets Field Flannels, the American vintage athletic apparel brand, for a limited-edition capsule collection that drops on Friday.
The collection features three styles: a gray fitted cap with the Minnesota United word mark, a black fitted look featuring the Minnesota United logo, and a charcoal adjustable hat that features l’étoile du nord, which is a French phrase meaning “The Star of the North.” It is the motto of the state of Minnesota and accompanied by the Minnesota United FC star. Product will only be available online on ebbets.com and while supplies last. The price point of the collection is $50.

The collaboration between MNUFC and Ebbets began through the common interest in creating a collection that would give fans the opportunity to own a unique piece of the club’s history, according to Rachel Leber, vice president of consumer products at Major League Soccer. “We hope that the collection appeals to both Minnesota United supporters and fans of Ebbets Field Flannels.”
World-class soccer stadiums have been a key focus of Major League Soccer. Minnesota United FC’s Allianz Field opens this season, becoming the league’s 20th stadium built or transformed for soccer. The collection celebrates the opening of the $250 million state-of-the-art

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-sportswear/minnesota-united-links-with-ebbets-for-limited-edition-capsule-1203104533/

      

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Mizzen + Main CEO to Depart, Stitch Fix Exec to Take Helm

Mizzen + Main turned to Stitch Fix to find its next chief.
The Dallas-based online men’s wear brand has tapped Chris Phillips, the head of men’s and children’s wear at Stitch Fix, to replace Kevin Lavelle, its founder and ceo. Lavelle will be leaving Mizzen + Main to join The Seminar Network, part of the Koch political network in Washington, according to CNBC, which first reported the news.
Lavelle said he had no plans to leave the company he started in 2012, but when the Koch family reached out to him about joining The Seminar Network, a business that brings together social entrepreneurs to improve the world, he decided to take the plunge.
“It was a shocking request, but they have ambitious goals to make a significant impact on society,” Lavelle said, adding that their mission “aligns with how I view the world.”
So he set out to find someone to succeed him. “I believe we’ve found the absolute perfect person to take this company to the next level,” he said. “I’m actually more excited about the future with a seasoned retail operator on board.”
Lavelle said he will continue to be involved with Mizzen + Main as chairman and an investor. He will remain

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In the Spotlight: French Deal

Brand: French Deal
Backstory: Steeven Kodjia, a former professional hip-hop dancer, used to shop the vintage shops of New York searching out the most unique streetwear pieces he could find and resell them when he returned home to France. He soon attracted a following who appreciated his taste and eye for the unusual. And so in 2010, Kodjia decided it was time for him to create his own brand, one that would speak to a couture hip-hop customer — a market he didn’t feel was being addressed. He teamed up with Ian Mahinmi of the Washington Wizards, and Ousmane Dabo, a former soccer champion, to create French Deal that next year. The three share not only an affinity for high-end streetwear, but a common heritage: they’re all originally from West Africa and grew up in France, giving them a similar sensibility and purpose. The brand, which is custom only, soon gained a foothold with celebrities such as Khalid, Maejor, Quincy Brown, Evan Ross, and Ne-Yo, as well as several NBA athletes, including Mahinmi’s teammates Otto Porter, Tomas Satoransky and John Wall, and NFL player Victor Cruz. “From the beginning, I wanted a brand that told our story and that I could

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EXCLUSIVE: Louis Wong Named Creative Director of Editions M.R

PARIS — Parisian men’s wear label Editions M.R has chosen Louis Wong as its first official creative director.
The French designer, who is best known for his work at A.P.C., joined the ready-to-wear company in March, and will present his first collection for the brand during Paris Fashion Week: Men’s in June.
“When Louis and I met, I immediately felt we shared this common sensibility,” said Mathieu de Ménonville, who cofounded Editions M.R in 2010 (formerly named Melinda Gloss.) “I’m hoping his creative direction will lead to developing more fabrics and styles, but will also add a touch of eccentricity and bring a fresh outlook to the brand.”
After a stint at Louis Vuitton’s men’s studio working under Marc Jacobs, Wong, 42, spent 15 years at A.P.C., collaborating with Jean Touitou on the men’s and women’s lines. In 2011, the French designer launched his own men’s line at A.P.C., named Louis W.
“I am fond of the ultraclassic French aesthetic that Mathieu embodies,” said Wong. “And I like the relaxed feel, the refined proportions. The idea is to push a radical but subtle eccentricity while staying true to the roots of Editions M.R.”
Collections were designed in-house prior to Wong’s nomination. In the brand’s early

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Bennett Winch Pops Up in Turnbull & Asser

It’s nice to have friends in high places.
When Robin Bennett and Robin Winch of the Bennett Winch accessories brand were looking for the right spot to test the U.S. market, Jonathan Baker, managing director of Turnbull & Asser, offered them a prime location right inside the entrance of the brand’s town house on 57th Street.
They jumped at the chance, and last Thursday night, they invited some 100-plus customers and friends to the location between Madison and Park Avenues for cocktails to celebrate their arrival.
“We sold four bags [at the event],” Bennett said, “so it looks like there’s an appetite for it.”
He said New York is the brand’s second-best market outside the U.K. and eventually they’d like to open a permanent space in the city. But for now, they’re happy to just settle in for 10 weeks at Turnbull & Asser.
Bennett Winch launched in 2015 and offers weekenders, totes, briefcases, backpacks and a unique garment bag/holdall in canvas or leather. The best-selling item is the weekender, the brand’s first and now signature product that is handmade in England using bonded canvas, military-grade cotton webbing, leather detailing and an interior with pockets for a laptop as well as a separate compartment for wet

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MEN’S FORUM: The Whitaker Group’s James Whitner Relies on Instinct and Close Consumer Connections to Stay Ahead

For The Whitaker Group’s founder James Whitner, being the consumer is essential to knowing the consumer.
With an assortment of stores via his company’s four retail entities — Social Status, A.P.B., Prosper and A Ma Maniére — Whitner emphasized the importance of being submerged with the people you are trying to connect with. He asked, “Are you focused on the consumer? Do you know who the consumer is and why? Most people don’t. You’re casting a wide net in men’s wear…I’m the guy. I’m the guy who’s buying the stuff and wearing the stuff.”
Aside from anticipating what his shoppers want, Whitner spoke of how he tries to design spaces that they will emotionally respond to. “I’m always trying to re-create the places and spaces I’ve been in. I feel like I have a romantic affair with the consumer in the process. Can someone cue the music? [Romantic tunes follow.] When I walk into a store, this is how I feel. I’m being romanced by the romance,” he said.
Referring to outdated business practices that can’t keep up with quick fire social media and fashion’s rapid speed of change, Whitner said, “You’ve got to set your businesses up to move like we move.

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Hypebeast Knows There’s a Big Online Appetite for Luxury Brands

People like to be informed about luxury brands, whether or not they can afford them.
Huan Nguyen, vice president of brand partnerships at Hypebeast, said traffic and engagement at the streetwear-focused site grew considerably between 2015 and 2018 in content that mentioned brands like Dior, Gucci and Louis Vuitton — all of which have had some kind of major crossover with streetwear in recent years. The site increased such posts to nearly 400 from 100, saw average page views per item increase to 15,000 from 12,000 and average engagement time double to two minutes from one.
As far as Nguyen is concerned, this is as good a sign as any of “how streetwear and luxury have been best friends for quite some time,” as he put it. He used a gif from “Lady and the Tramp” of the characters smooching over pasta to drive the point home.
“The idea is that this audience isn’t necessarily the guy you see on the corner rocking head-to-toe Supreme,” Nguyen added. “Sometimes they’re just in front of their computer doing their thing, but they know a ton about the brands out there.”
There may not be a direct link between Hypebeast traffic and a brand’s sales, but

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Grailed Founder on Future of the Men’s Fashion ‘Movement’

Men’s fashion has changed a lot in the past decade, and Arun Gupta sees it changing still.
Led by a young male consumer obsessed with streetwear, a new interest in fashion has led the popular success of sites like Grailed, which Gupta founded in 2013 as a marketplace and community platform for “super enthusiasts,” like himself. But already the culture is moving beyond streetwear.
“The men’s clothing movement, it being acceptable for men to care more about the clothes they wear, has been building for the past 10 years,” Gupta said. “But streetwear is the last phase of it.”
Already on Grailed, he said the inventory is about evenly split between streetwear and fashion, possibly a sign that the realm is cooling off a bit. And then there’s the split between the two types of fashion consumers Gupta is seeing.
“One is the consumer who buys to wear it, then there’s the consumer buying to flip it,” Gupta said. “It’s very prevalent in sneakers and now very prevalent in streetwear and it’s pretty unique to the ecosystem.”
He compared the level of resale with a brand like Celine, where new items have been slow to appear on Grailed and a brand like Supreme, which shows

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WWD Men’s Summit: Hilary Coles of Hims

Hims is making waves in the wellness industry by tapping into a market that has otherwise been largely neglected: men.
“We launched Hims to address and normalize conversations that have been too often stigmatized and educate men that it’s OK to take care of themselves and actually, it’s kind of weird not to,” said Hilary Coles, Hims’ brand leader. “We help men take care of themselves through a telemedicine platform. What that means is that we offer men access to over-the-counter and prescription medicine via an easy-to-use online consultation that pairs them with doctors licensed in their states and from a network of pharmacies across the country.”
Launched 18 months ago, Hims now has “hundreds of thousands” of men using its platform, said Coles, which gives them access to FDA-approved, medical-grade products, educational tools and medical expertise.
“In health care, there’s a debilitating stigma attached to really important issues for men. It’s largely caused by a vacuum and a lack of conversation because men are unfortunately afraid to approach these hard conversations and they’re afraid to approach them with doctors, with their closest friends and even with their partners,” Coles said.
To combat this stigma, Coles and her team place extra emphasis on packaging

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The North Face Finds Its Inner Fashion

Tim Bantle, global general manager of The North Face, described the brand’s transformation from a collection of technical clothing and gear for serious explorers to a label that’s in-demand in the fashion world and collaborating with Supreme, Junya Watanabe and Sacai.
Bantle began by showing The North Face rock, which appears on all of its products, “at the end of Yosemite Valley, there’s this beautiful, monolithic rock,” he said. “It captures our historical essence.”
Bantle is a climber who spent 12 years at Patagonia, and prior to that, worked in guiding and retail. Showing a photo of a frozen tundra, he said, “This is where the most elite climbers in the world go — to the middle of Antarctica to do new climbs.”
Likening The North Face to NASA, but for earthbound exploration, Bantle said, “We enable people to go there and do that. It’s given rise to our most important and iconic products. Those products are part of an Expedition System launched in the Nineties.…We developed these products basically to climb Mount Everest.
“These products basically have a place in our archive and have a cult following around the world,” Bantle added. “The most important iconic products include the Denali jacket Base Camp

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Corridor Store Relocates, Expands in NoLIta

Corridor has relocated into a new space in NoLIta that is double the size of its earlier store.
The new shop, at 245 Elizabeth Street, is 900 square feet and replaces the 450-square-foot space on Mott Street.
“The first Corridor store was right around the corner from the new location,” said founder and designer Dan Snyder. “We love this area, but wanted something bigger — a true flagship, where the collection has room to breath. And that’s we got. The new shop is big, bright and comfortable.”
In addition to the men’s and women’s Corridor collections, the store stocks the full selection of Sunshine Blues, the company’s resortwear line, along with a handpicked assortment of complementary third-party goods from some of Snyder’s favorite brands.
“There’s a lot of product, but it’s still a very relaxed space,” he added. “The floors are covered in a mix of vintage Pennsylvania Dutch rugs, Oaxacan kilims, and Indian indigo textiles. We also have some vintage pieces on the walls that I picked up while visiting our manufacturing partners in India. There’s a mix of influences, but it’s still distinctly American — exactly like the clothes we make.”
Snyder, a former contractor for the Federal Bureau of Investigation, created Corridor,

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Kith Partnering With Russell Athletic on Capsule

Friday is a big day for Ronnie Fieg.
Not only is the owner of the buzzy Kith store opening his first international outpost in London’s Selfridges flagship, but he’s also introducing a new upscale collection with Russell Athletic.
The 96-piece collection was created and manufactured by Fieg and draws on Russell’s 115-year heritage with a variety of colorful retro athletic styles for men and women.
The collection is much more premium than Russell’s traditional offering, retailing for $55 to $135.
“It’s a pinnacle level product and priced according,” said Greg Galbraith, senior director of marketing for Russell Athletic. “It’s more expensive than our regular product.”
Kith created a special 14-oz. cotton fleece that was custom-milled in the U.S. to achieve a high-quality feel for the collection. Four of Russell’s original silhouettes were used as the base for the offering, which consists of a hoodie, crewneck, T-shirt and short in red, orange, yellow, green, blue and black. Each piece is overdyed in OG (Original Gangster), pastel or vintage shades and each style is limited to only 100 units.

Kith’s Russell collaboration will be premium priced.
Justin Bridges

Galbraith said he provided Fieg with old catalogues from the brand’s archives where they showcased colorful athletic apparel for a variety of

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Haspel to Celebrate 110th Anniversary With Vintage Capsule

It was 110 years ago when Joseph Haspel Sr. created a suit out of an unusual puckered Indian fabric called seersucker that could hold up to the New Orleans heat and still look good.
Fast forward to today, and Laurie Haspel Aronson, the great granddaughter of Haspel and chief executive officer of the family-owned business, is celebrating that milestone with a special vintage capsule collection, a retail partnership and a number of parties and pop-ups that kick off for spring and will continue throughout the year.
“We’re bringing the roots back to New Orleans,” said Aronson, who is headquartered in nearby Baton Rouge, La. “It’s in our DNA and part of our brand strategy.”
To that point, Haspel has partnered with Rubensteins, the venerable men’s store in New Orleans, to sell the entire spring collection in its Canal Street store. In 2017, Haspel moved from a wholesale model to direct-to-consumer. Rubensteins is its only retail account.
This past weekend, the two companies teamed for a two-day trunk show to celebrate the start of the festival season in New Orleans with an event benefiting the Jewish Children’s Regional Service. In addition, Haspel will be a sponsor of the French Quarter Festival, a Louisiana-skewed music event,

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Being Rhude Could Get You Anywhere

LOS ANGELES — Rhuigi Villaseñor strutted into his new downtown Los Angeles office slinging what looked like an oversize leather hobo bag with “Rhude” in white letters.
He can’t talk about it, but it’s a big hint at where his men’s brand Rhude, started in 2013 and best known for its traxedo (that would be the track point 2.0 with front pleating and side taping on the legs) is headed. That would be in a lot of directions, by the way: footwear, accessories, denim, eyewear, women’s ready-to-wear and women’s footwear.
He’s already checked a few things off that list more recently with the launch of the first Rhude shoe, in addition to a footwear collaboration with Puma. Then there’s the more recent tie-up with Thierry Lasry on eyewear. This all follows last July’s pop-in at Maxfield, which Villaseñor viewed as a turning point for the brand.
“I actually coined that as the beginning of this shift in our business,” he said. “Maxfield’s amplified our message. Doing a pop-up and executing the right way and it being a successful pop-up, our colleagues and competitors took us seriously and it became a new tone to the business. We had run under the radar for a little

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China Named Guest Nation of Upcoming Pitti Uomo

MILAN — China will be the guest nation of Pitti Uomo’s upcoming edition, running June 11 to 14 in Florence.
Thanks to a partnership signed between the trade show’s organizer Pitti Immagine and Shanghai Fashion Week, the collections of 11 Chinese labels will be showcased in the special area Grotte, at the Fortezza da Basso location.
The brands selected include 8on8, Danshan, FFixxed Studios, Junwei Lin, Percy Lau, Private Policy, Pronounce, Samuel Guì Yang, Staffonly, The Flocks and Untitlab.
Pronounce also will stage a fashion show at an undisclosed location during the trade show. For the occasion, the label’s founders Yushan Li and Jun Zhou will unveil a partnership with Converse to launch a deconstructed version of the Jack Purcell sneaker.
An exhibition on fashion photographer Leslie Zhang will be staged at Fortezza da Basso to further heighten the focus on Chinese fashion.

A photograph by Leslie Zhang.
Leslie Zhang

The guest nation program has been launched by the Fondazione Pitti Immagine Discovery with the goal to shine a spotlight on emerging creative talents from around the world. Previous featured guest nations have included Turkey, Denmark, Africa, South Korea, Ukraine, Australia, Finland, Georgia and, most recently in January, Portugal.
The Guest Nation China project will be curated by Labelhood,

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-fashion/china-named-guest-nation-upcoming-pitti-uomo-1203096287/

      

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Billy Reid on a Growth Spurt as New Investors Come on Board

NEW YORK — It’s a new day at Billy Reid.
The Alabama-based designer recently sold a minority stake in his business and with that financial cushion is working with a new team to grow the brand to what he believes can be its full potential.
In addition to Joel Anderson, an Alabama businessman who has been a partner for close to a decade, the Kemmons Wilson Companies, a Memphis-based investment firm operated by the descendants of the founder of the Holiday Inn chain, recently invested as well. Kemmons Wilson also holds stakes in the Memphis Grizzlies NBA team, the Wiseacre Brewing Co., Central BBQ, Active Implants and businesses in the hospitality and insurance fields. It purchased an undisclosed percentage of the Billy Reid brand last year.
The latest company to provide funding is The Balvenie, Scotland’s premier single malt Scotch whisky. The deal, which is for one year but may be extended, will find Balvenie spirits being featured at Billy Reid’s 12 retail stores. It will sponsor his 11th annual Shindig festival in Alabama in August and host a series of in-store events in several stores.
Like many independent designer labels, Reid has struggled to find the cash to sustain and expand his business. Reid

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