Fashion

Montelle Partners With Rya

Flora Backer, the founder of Flora Nikrooz who launched her lingerie line Rya in 2016, is entering a partnership with Montelle.
William Haddad, the owner of the Montreal-based intimate apparel firm, said he wasn’t looking to work with new brands, but after meeting Backer and seeing the line, they started to have conversations and realized it was an alliance that made sense.
“It’s hard to not fall in love with Flora,” said Haddad. “She’s so passionate about what she does. She has an amazing track record and her line is amazing. I went from, I’m not interested at all, to taking a close look and getting to know each other and deciding to do it.”
Backer will continue to oversee Rya’s design and creative while Montelle will support the brand by handling inventory, shipping, customer service, accounting and a sales rep force in Canada and the U.S. that will help Backer enter more boutiques. Rya is sold at retailers including Anthropologie and specialty boutiques.
“Bill is a great thinker and is very in-tune with the future of the industry,” said Backer. “I am dedicated to body-positive, passionate and stylish women who are not afraid to break boundaries and express their own individuality. We hope

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/intimates/montelle-partners-with-rya-lingerie-1202972818/

      

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Bridget Foley’s Diary: Gillette’s Woke Stroke

Is this the best an ad can get? If the goal is to put a mature, high-function, low-sizzle brand front and center of the culturally relevant news cycle on a given day, the answer seems a boisterous yes.
Earlier this week, Gillette pulled out all the stops for its foray into woke marketing, releasing the #MeToo-inspired video that applies a variation of its 30-year old tagline, “The best a man can get” to counter the devastating and more insidious manifestations and fallout from “toxic masculinity.”
Various video snippets show human and cartoon sleazebags ogling women, and a case of corporate mansplaining. But the examples of toxicity don’t focus solely on the treatment of women. The video cuts to scenes of kids bullying other kids and of two little boys wrestling through a disagreement, all under the guise “boys will be boys.” These run in contrast to examples of men behaving admirably, with the voiceover, “Some men are already doing this.”
Controversial? You bet — in the most calculated way. The top brass of Gillette and its parent company P&G, along with Grey Advertising, surely knew exactly what they were doing. They had to have predicted that reaction would erupt vociferously between two all-or-nothing

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/bridget-foleys-diary-gillettes-woke-stroke-1202971476/

      

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Sergio Rossi to Open Permanent Store on Madison Avenue

Sergio Rossi has signed a long-term lease for an 800-square-foot store at 680 Madison Avenue, according to Thor Equities, which owns the property. The Italian footwear company will have plenty of high-fashion neighbors at 680 Madison, or the Carlton House, as the building is known. Missoni recently said it will move from 1009 Madison Avenue and 78th Street to a 3,500-square-foot unit at 680 Madison.
Sergio Rossi doesn’t operate a freestanding store in Manhattan; the brand is sold at Bloomingdale’s, Saks Fifth Avenue and Barneys New York.
Tom Ford occupies a two-level, 12,300-square-foot flagship along the southwest corner of the same building, but the store has the address 672 Madison Avenue. The designer in 2017 relocated to the new space from 845 Madison Avenue at 70th Street. Other tenants include British fashion house Ralph & Russo, luxury men’s wear brand Brioni and Morgenthal Frederics eyewear.
Built in 1951 by the Astor estate as a hotel, the property, which runs the entire length of Madison Avenue between 61st and 62nd Streets, was later converted to the Helmsley Carlton House before becoming a luxury residential property with 34,000 square feet of retail space.
Madison Avenue has struggled with declining rents and high vacancies since the 2008 recession,

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/sergio-rossi-to-open-permanent-store-on-madison-avenue-1202967763/

      

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Catherine Deneuve Auctions Her Saint Laurent Wardrobe

LONDON — It was the sale of her countryside château in Normandy that prompted Catherine Deneuve to let go of her Saint Laurent wardrobe — a varied collection filled with treasures from the Sixties up to the early 2000s and telling the story of a 40-year-old friendship with the late Yves Saint Laurent.
“It’s this big country house with a beautiful garden, because Catherine loves flowers and gardening. She was upset to be selling it, but it got a little too heavy for her, so she had to make the decision to let it go and sell her Saint Laurent wardrobe with it,” said Francois de Ricqlès, president at Christie’s Paris and a friend of Deneuve’s.
De Ricqlès described the château’s vast attic to be filled with the French movie star’s archival Saint Laurent pieces. “She is above a certain age and she found that it would be more joyful to use this time, rather than a sale after death, so she decided to do it herself.”
It’s a big moment for Christie’s, too, which rarely organizes fashion auctions anymore unless there is a certain element of rarity in a collection.

Yves Saint Laurent and Catherine Deneuve
Courtesy Photo

“We would only organize fashion sales if

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/catherine-deneuve-auctions-saint-laurent-wardrobe-christies-paris-1202969555/

      

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German Designers Start Creative-led Industry Association

France has what local designers call “la Fédération” and the U.S. has the CFDA. As of this week, Germany has its own industry association “by fashion designers for fashion designers,” as the founders put it.
The German Fashion Designers Federation was initiated in spring 2018 after two years of preparation and launched officially today in Berlin, a few days before the city’s biannual fashion week begins. As yet, the Federation, or GFDF, only has a handful of members but they already have some impressive supporters: Financial backing is being provided by Mercedes-Benz and German skin-care stalwart Dr. Hauschka. German designer Bernhard Willhelm is a member and other big, local names, yet to be announced, are also expected to join. The GFDF’s board includes Renate Künast, a senior member of German parliament for the Green party and former federal minister for food, agriculture and consumer protection.
The GFDF was the brainchild of Eva Gronbach, a Berlin-based designer who previously worked for Hermès and Yohji Yamamoto, who will also serve as the body’s first president.
“We were very inspired by the CFDA in New York because it is a younger organization than the Federation in Paris,” says Gronbach, who started the project by simply e-mailing other

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/german-designers-start-creative-led-industry-association-1202955154/

      

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FIT Design Entrepreneurs Kicks Off 2019 Program

FIT Design Entrepreneurs’ Class of 2019 gathered Thursday night at the DKNY showroom at 240 West 40th Street in Manhattan to launch the program, as well as network.
Some 24 up-and-coming designers were selected by fashion and business experts to participate in the FIT DE, where they will embark on a six-month “boot camp” to boost their existing businesses with the help of mentors, consultants and workshops. Throughout the program, FIT provides designers access to classes, resources, events and industry professionals who serve as mentors, financial consultants, and pitch-workshop leaders, and they work on a business plan. With significant support from the fashion industry, most notably G-III Apparel Group, the founding sponsor, two finalists will be selected this spring to receive top prizes of $100,000 (for the most outstanding business plan) and $50,000 (second-place company) to help grow their businesses.
“It’s a great opportunity for young people, and a great investment on the parts of successful people in the business,” said Joyce Brown, president of FIT. “Obviously they’re all very creative, but it helps them understand the business side.” She said that FIT DE alumni come back and tell them that they learned things that they didn’t even know that they didn’t

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/fit-design-entrepreneurs-kicks-off-2019-program-1202954878/

      

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Bridget Foley’s Diary: Can Fashion Save the Oscars?

Lady Gaga’s periwinkle presence at the Golden Globes was as memorable as her meat dress, only beautiful instead of bovine. It made for a brilliant expression of how a star of whom much is expected in the getting-dressed arena can live up to expectations while still exhibiting her maturation from audacious, wacky post-adolescent to audacious, uniquely elegant (when she feels like it) young woman. In a roomful of stars, Gaga proved the starriest.

The Globes’ news cycle may be several days in the rear-view mirror, but Gaga’s Periwinkle Power merits revisiting in light of the drama emanating from the upcoming Academy Awards, sprung from the Kevin Hart hosting debacle. According to a piece by Matt Donnelly in Variety on Wednesday, it looks likely that the Feb. 24 Oscars will go hostless for only the second time in its history. Given that huge vacancy and the furor surrounding it, the event is in apparent disarray.
Hollywood awards shows are a strange bird. The supposed point is to honor excellence, a hybrid of professional nobility and commercial savvy. Yet in the years since the first Oscars ceremony in 1929, a brief affair at which 12 were awarded, that initial dual intent has swung toward

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/bridget-foleys-diary-can-fashion-save-the-oscars-1202954646/

      

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Peuterey Introduces Peuterey.Plurals Line

MILAN — Italian outerwear brand Peuterey is launching a product line called Peuterey.Plurals.
Targeting young and cool customers, the line, which makes its debut with the fall 2019 season, will offer total look collections inspired by music and street culture for an urban, international approach.
“Fashion is currently dominated by streetwear and contemporary trends, so we thought it was the right time for us to start approaching this emerging world, which is pretty distant from our core business,” said Peuterey Group president Francesca Lusini. “For this reason, we decided to not just develop a capsule, but a brand new line, which we will use to explore new territories and experiment trends and new opportunities, while remaining loyal to our great quality.”

Peuterey.Plurals fall 2019 collection
Jody Mattioli

Peuterey.Plurals debuting collection is defined by the combination of bright colors and relaxed silhouettes for a wardrobe focused on metropolitan staples. Oversize puffer jackets crafted from an upscale water-repellent nylon fabric are peppered by flamboyant striped motifs and bold graphics outside, while inside they reveal writings ironically suggesting how to correctly pronounce the name Peuterey. Outerwear is matched with sporty teddy bear zippered hoodies, cozy sweaters with a mohair-like effect, hyper soft Neoprene sweatshirts and triacetate tracksuits punctuated

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/peuterey-introduces-peuterey-plurals-line-1202953443/

      

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Calvin Klein to Shutter Flagship, Trim Staff, With ‘Go-Forward’ Plan

Calvin Klein Inc. will close its Manhattan flagship in the wake of Raf Simons’ departure as chief creative officer and amid a changing fashion and retail landscape.
Steve Shiffman, chief executive officer of Calvin Klein Inc., a wholly owned subsidiary of PVH Corp., revealed the closure among several strategic changes to the brand and organization. It was learned that approximately 100 employees were let go at the company across the entire business, including the flagship.
As reported, Klein and Simons amicably decided to part ways in December after Klein decided on a new brand direction which differed from Simons’ creative vision. Simons’ three year contract was set to expire next August.
According to Shiffman, the brand has outlined three key initiatives to jump start the business, including relaunching Calvin Klein 205W39NYC under a new name, design approach and creative direction. The new name is still under wraps, and the company declined to provide details on the new creative direction and who would be designing the collection. The new business will focus on connecting directly to all the other Calvin Klein brands and amplifying each category with its product mix and aspirational experiences. The company plans to close its historic flagship store at 654

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/calvin-klein-to-shutter-flagship-trim-staff-with-go-forward-plan-1202954226/

      

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Gabriela Hearst Maps Out Sustainability Vision

LONDON — It might have taken her a while, but designer Gabriela Hearst has crystallized her brand vision. On Thursday morning, she shared her story with members of the British Fashion Council’s Fashion Trust during a talk at Jessica McCormack’s Mayfair Townhouse.
The New York-based designer was also marking the launch of a residency at Matchesfashion.com’s new retail space, 5 Carlos Place, a teaser of the brand’s future store in the British capital, Hearst said.
Alongside her residency at Carlos Place, which will run until Jan. 26, Hearst has also debuted an exclusive capsule for Matches, which added a British accent to signature brand pieces.
“We created a print based on the race of Belmont Park, which is an Ascot race but held outside of New York,” said the designer, pointing to an equestrian print on silk shirts and elegant shirtdresses. “It reminded me of a brooch of a horse I bought from Jessica McCormack, so it’s bringing a bit of that equestrian background into a more traditional, British scenario. I really connected to that print and from then everything naturally fit into place.”
Other looks include corduroy suits and velvet slip dresses, some of which were made from upcycled materials. A range of luxurious

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/gabriela-hearst-maps-sustainability-vision-matchesfashion-bfc-1202953888/

      

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Kingpins Shifts June Dates for New York Shows

Based on feedback from the denim community, the Kingpins Show has shifted its New York show schedule. The Kingpins New York Show was initially set for June 8 and 9, but will now run June 12 and 13. Kingpins Transformers is set for June 11, and New York Denim Days “will keep its original dates, hosting its festival celebrating all things indigo on June 8-9,” show organizers said.
Andrew Olah, founder of Kingpins Show and Kingpins Transformers, said he received feedback “that our New York show was too close to Ramadan and came too closely on the heels of our Kingpins Hong Kong show, which takes place May 15 and 16. Our new June 12 and 13 dates allow us to accommodate our exhibitors and attendees and best serve our community.”
Kingpins New York will feature a vintage market, “giving designers and denim industry professionals the opportunity to shop for inspiration as they plan for their fall/winter 2020 collections,” show organizers noted.
This year, Kingpins New York celebrates its 15th year, and is positioned as “the sourcing and inspiration hub of the American denim industry.” Denim Days is marketed as a consumer denim festival while Kingpins Transformers is positioned as “a summit series spotlighting

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/denim/kingpins-new-york-shift-1202953522/

      

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Asos and PVH Corp. Join Global Fashion Agenda as Strategic Partners

PARIS — Asos and PVH Corp. have joined the global sustainability movement.
The two businesses have become strategic partners at Global Fashion Agenda, the nonprofit organization, leadership forum on fashion sustainability and organizer of the annual Copenhagen Fashion Summit, joining Kering, H&M Group, Nike, Target, Bestseller, Li & Fung and the Sustainable Apparel Coalition.
By adding e-commerce retailer Asos and apparel company PVH Corp. to its collaborators, Global Fashion Agenda now counts support from industry leaders in most segments of the fashion industry, including luxury, athletic, e-commerce, high-street, mass, premium and sourcing markets.
The aim of the GFA is to mobilize the global fashion system and support industry leaders in changing the way fashion is produced, marketed and consumed.
In the last 12 months, Asos, via its “Fashion With Integrity” programme, made commitments to ban the sale of fashion pieces made with mohair, silk, cashmere and feathers on its retail platform.
“As one of the most visited fashion destinations in the world, Asos has a great influence by supporting its own and third-party brands in implementing sustainable practices, and as a retailer engaging twentysomething consumers in sustainable matters,” Eva Kruse, chief executive officer and president of GFA, in a statement issued Thursday.
PVH, which owns Calvin Klein,

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/asos-and-pvh-corp-join-global-fashion-agenda-as-strategic-partners-1202952292/

      

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Giuseppe Zanotti Partners With Rita Ora on an Exclusive Footwear Capsule

LONDON — Giuseppe Zanotti is at it again, with plans to release yet another celebrity collaboration, this time with Rita Ora.
The footwear designer, who has worked in the past with musicians including Jennifer Lopez and Zayn Malik, asked Ora for pictures of her favorite shoes and then let his imagination take flight.
“I love working with artists because they’re very efficient,” he said, adding that Ora loves fashion and he loves music. “In both our lines of profession we need to research everything, everywhere and every day. She’s very multitasking, and I admire that.”
As a result of their close collaboration, Zanotti said he was able to work in the ‘old school’ way,” meaning that he made the initial creations by hand.
“I used to buy shoes at vintage markets, cut them up and Scotch tape parts together. It’s nice after 20 years to go back to the past to work in a very artisanal way. I was painting the shoes and changing lines with scissors,” he added during an interview on the shoot with Ora.
The Giuseppe for Rita Ora collection includes slides, stiletto sandals, pointed-toe mules and knee-high, peep-toe boots with a chunky Cuban Link chain on the heel. The chain is the showpiece of the collection and was

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/giuseppe-zanotti-partners-rita-ora-exclusive-footwear-capsule-1202950788/

      

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ON STAFF: France Inaugurates ‘World’s Best Fashion School’

PARIS — France on Tuesday inaugurated what it boldly dubbed “the world’s best fashion school” in a bid to become a magnet for global creative talent, with an academic institution to match its economic status as the worldwide leader in luxury fashion.
Finance Minister Bruno Le Maire officially launched the new school, born of the long-touted merger of the Institut Français de la Mode (IFM) and the Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne (ECSCP) — though building on the new premises won’t be completed until 2020.
“I am inaugurating today the best fashion school in the world, because that is what you are destined to become: the best, meaning the one flying the flag for French excellence; the best, meaning the one that draws talents from across the world, from Beijing to Los Angeles or San Francisco,” Le Maire said.
Touting the sector as the global leader in its field, the minister drew a parallel with the tech industry, dubbing French luxury firms “the new GAFA we call KOL: Kering, L’Oréal, Louis Vuitton.”
He was speaking at a thronged ceremony at the IFM headquarters inside the Cité de la mode et du design, a striking contemporary building on the banks of

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/france-inaugurates-worlds-best-fashion-school-1202950998/

      

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Reda Stages Exhibition on Sustainability During Pitti Uomo

MILAN — Reda Group, the Biella, Italy-based woolen mill, will take over the spaces of Fortezza da Basso in Florence during Pitti Uomo, staging a photo exhibition focusing on sustainability.
Starting from today through Friday, 10 billboards portraying natural landscapes are featured at the venue, inviting the audience to reconsider the relationship among men and nature, as well as highlighting the urge to preserve the ecosystem.
Dubbed “#Redaway: Sostenibilità, Trasparenza, Sopravvivenza,” or “#Redaway: Sustainability, Transparency, Survival” in English, the initiative will be flanked by a cocktail party hosted in partnership with Pitti Immagine on Wednesday at 5 p.m.
“For us, the word sustainability has become a synonym of survival. The textile industry’s increasing demands make raw materials scarcer and scarcer and the need to optimize production processes and cycles can’t be ignored anymore,” said Reda Group chief executive officer Ercole Botto Poala, adding that “a company can’t be competitive and therefore survive if it won’t be sustainable in the future.”
The initiative is in sync with the commitment to sustainability the group has been endorsing for 20 years.
The company is the world’s only full-cycle woolen mill to have received the EMAS certification, back in 2004. This stands for Eco-Management and Audit Scheme, a management

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/textiles/reda-exhibition-sustainability-pitti-uomo-1202948712/

      

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Ralph Pucci Showcases Fashions From Pratt Seniors

Three students from the Pratt Institute of Design are under the spotlight. Their senior thesis projects are being showcased at the Ralph Pucci International showroom, 44 West 18th Street, through Dec. 14.
“We are always looking for what’s new, what’s next,” said Ralph Pucci. “The kids are not afraid to take creative chances. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t. But the result is always fresh and original.”
Pucci, a member of the board of directors at Pratt, picked three of his favorite collections from last spring’s senior student show, to showcase on his new mannequins, for visual market week and for several days after.
“Ralph recognizes superior talent at Pratt,” said Jennifer Minniti, chairwoman of Pratt Institute School of Design. “These student designs are really showroom ready. We prefer to challenge the norms and provide new cultural messaging through fashion.”
Rachel Lee, 22, who lives in Brooklyn and now works at Gap Inc. in design, has eight mannequins at the Pucci showroom. “The concept for my thesis is based on my family,” Lee said. “They’re from New Orleans and I wanted to connect with the city. It’s all about color, humor and fun. My mom’s side of the family is from there. Last June,

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/ralph-pucci-showcases-fashions-from-pratt-seniors-1202917210/

      

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How Kappa Plans on Maintaining Momentum

On Dec. 7, Kappa will hold an event at Miami Art Basel that merges its heritage in soccer with its positioning as a fashion and lifestyle brand.
The Italy-based company, which was founded in 1967, will partner with Miami Soccer Cage to host a charity soccer match that will include former pro players and creative influencers and will culminate in a donation to the YoungArts charity that helps support young artists. The players will wear bespoke Kappa jerseys from the Kappa Kalcio collection, an assortment of premium sportswear that will be available to purchase next year. And a soccer field adjacent to the game will showcase a collection of 15 jerseys from the Kappa archive.
According to Lorenzo Boglione, vice president of sales at Basic Net, the company his father founded that acquired Kappa post-bankruptcy in 1994, this event reminds the U.S. consumer about Kappa’s roots in soccer, which he feels will be integral to sustaining the brand’s popularity.
“We have a very strong momentum right now and we want to express the history of the brand and mix that with a fashion trend,” said Boglione. “It’s important to show the bedrock of the brand and celebrate that in a modern way.”
Kappa had

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/kappa-sports-heritage-trend-migos-1202928189/

      

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Billabong Looks to Elevate With Help of Sincerely Jules’ Julie Sariñana

Billabong and Sincerely Jules blogger Julie Sariñana are expanding their relationship with a capsule collection the surfwear company hopes in turn will help elevate the brand.
The collection, totaling more than 40 pieces priced from $39.95 to $84.95, includes swimwear, denim, dresses, rompers, graphic T-shirts, matching tops and bottoms and beach accessories.
The deal deepens the relationship between the two brands, which initially began working together in early 2015 with Sariñana creating content for Billabong.
“It just felt like the right thing to do to go the next step and create a collection together,” Sariñana said, adding readers have historically responded positively in the past to posts she’s done that have included the brand.
The partnership is an interesting one. Sariñana doesn’t surf and is not exactly a fan of the water, which runs opposite to the core surfer the brand was built around. The thinking is the capsule could help broaden Billabong’s reach to — at the least — new retail accounts, and potentially new customers to the Billabong brand. The strategy appears to be working with Selfridges in London along with Printemps and BHV in Paris among some of the accounts picked up as a result of this collection.
“We’ll see where it

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/sportswear/billabong-looks-to-elevate-with-sincerely-jules-julie-sarinana-1202927826/

      

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Commonwealth Gets Adidas Consortium Collaboration

IN GOOD COMPANY: Streetwear boutique Commonwealth is the latest to join the roster of select brands and big names for a collaboration that’s part of the Adidas Consortium collection.
The shoe collaboration, Commonwealth’s first with the sportswear firm, reflects a new take on the ZX 500 RM and is meant to be nods to the retailer’s doors in both the U.S. and the Philippines.
Commonwealth, which was started in 2004, has stores in the U.S. in downtown Los Angeles, Washington, D.C., and Virginia Beach. Commonwealth expanded to Los Angeles’ Arts District about a year ago. It was the first time in 10 years the business had opened a new door in the U.S., setting up shop in a portion of downtown that is now just steps away from the recently opened Dover Street Market.
Discussions first began roughly a year ago in Paris during the Consortium sales meeting.
“For us, it’s great,” said Omar Quiambao, who founded Commonwealth with Larry Incognito. “We’ve been in business just about 15 years now and Adidas is the largest brand to date that we’ve gotten a chance to work with so we feel extremely fortunate. We know not everyone gets to work on a project with them so it

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/street-style/commonwealth-gets-adidas-consortium-collaboration-zx500-1202927878/

      

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Kering Partners With Savory Institute For Regenerative Sourcing Plan

PARIS — Kering and the Savory Institute have joined forces to apply the nonprofit’s “Land to Market” system for sourcing to the fashion industry.
Noting the industry’s part in damaging ecosystems, the luxury giant said the idea is to promote agriculture practices meant to reverse environmental damage. So-called regenerative raw materials are key to building a circular economy for the industry, and their use could be a potential game changer, the company said in a joint statement with the organization.
“Regenerative agriculture is a multibenefit solution which supports Kering’s sustainability ambitions to mitigate our environmental impacts and deliver positive outcomes along our supply chain,” said the group’s chief sustainability officer, Marie-Claire Daveu, who also heads the group’s international institutional affairs.
The company will become a “frontier founder” or partner to the Boulder-based group, and the two will work together to draw up a network of farms to supply raw materials to Kering.
Fashion companies are under increasing pressure to improve their records amidst growing consumer concern about environmental issues. Kering has positioned itself as a trailblazer on such matters in the corporate world, publishing an environmental profit and loss account for the sneaker business Puma as early as 2011, for example.
Calling the deal announced Thursday

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/textiles/kering-partners-with-savory-institute-regenerative-sourcing-plan-1202927221/

      

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