Fashion

Bridget Foley’s Diary: Martin Margiela Speaks!

Martin Margiela is back and talking. Thirty years after he first mystified and enthralled fashion with his nonconformist brilliance, and 11 years after he walked away from the industry following his 20th anniversary runway show, the designer is the subject of Reiner Holzemer’s documentary film “Martin Margiela: In His Own Words,” which premieres tonight at the DOC NYC Film Festival. The director’s previous works include films on William Eggleston, Juergen Teller and, most recently, the 2017 “Dries” (as in Van Noten).
Margiela is widely considered one of modern fashion’s most important designers, his influence continuing today in all sorts of arenas — deconstruction, streetwear, repurposed vintage, down-off-the-pedestal haute couture, alternative show venues. Anyone with a casual interest in the edgier aspects of fashion’s recent past should find plenty of interest in the documentary; serious fashion-history obsessives will be all aflutter to hear firsthand the designer’s perspective on his career. Margiela’s conversation volleys between esoteric musings and pragmatic dissection of craft and problem-solving; from the start, he distinguished himself as both renegade creator and skilled artisan. He was also a designer who for two decades navigated the uneasy terrain of a challenging industry, and he offers a brief, stinging assessment of why

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/martin-margiela-renzo-rosso-bridget-foleys-diary-1203366031/

      

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Bridget Foley’s Diary: Martin Margiela Speaks!

Martin Margiela is back and talking. Thirty years after he first mystified and enthralled fashion with his nonconformist brilliance, and 11 years after he walked away from the industry following his 20th anniversary runway show, the designer is the subject of Reiner Holzemer’s documentary film “Martin Margiela: In His Own Words,” which premieres tonight at the DOC NYC Film Festival. The director’s previous works include films on William Eggleston, Juergen Teller and, most recently, the 2017 “Dries” (as in Van Noten).
Margiela is widely considered one of modern fashion’s most important designers, his influence continuing today in all sorts of arenas — deconstruction, streetwear, repurposed vintage, down-off-the-pedestal haute couture, alternative show venues. Anyone with a casual interest in the edgier aspects of fashion’s recent past should find plenty of interest in the documentary; serious fashion-history obsessives will be all aflutter to hear firsthand the designer’s perspective on his career. Margiela’s conversation volleys between esoteric musings and pragmatic dissection of craft and problem-solving; from the start, he distinguished himself as both renegade creator and skilled artisan. He was also a designer who for two decades navigated the uneasy terrain of a challenging industry, and he offers a brief, stinging assessment of why

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/martin-margiela-renzo-rosso-bridget-foleys-diary-1203366031/

      

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Lingerie and Swimwear Veterans Susan DeMusis and Dora Lau Honored at HUG Gala

Plus-size lingerie, skimpy swimsuits and other unmentionables were the buzzwords of choice at the HUG Gala Wednesday evening in Midtown Manhattan.
The annual Project Help Us Give Gala — now in its 64th year — was formed by leaders in the lingerie and swimwear industries to raise money for charity. Executives from brands like Wacoal, Lively, PVH Corp., Ross Stores and Miraclesuit all donned their finest attire as they gathered in the penthouse of 230 Fifth Avenue to mingle over fancy cocktails and the sounds of jazz singer Pucci Amanda Jhones.
“I’m not sure who put together the gift bags, but usually it takes me a full day in the sun to turn the same shade of the lingerie that was in those bags,” Dr. Steven Flanagan, medical director at Rusk Rehabilitation at NYU Langone Health, told the crowd of more than 200 people as they nibbled on New York steak and ravioli. He was referring to the scarlet-colored, lacy thong that was a party favor.

Guests at the 2019 Project HUG Gala in New York City.
Courtesy

Despite the light-hearted shenanigans, the event had a serious undertone. It helped raise more than $200,000 for the Hassenfeld Children’s Hospital at NYU Langone and the Pediatric

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/intimates/project-hug-gala-nyc-intimates-swimwear-industries-1203366525/

      

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Lingerie and Swimwear Veterans Susan DeMusis and Dora Lau Honored at HUG Gala

Plus-size lingerie, skimpy swimsuits and other unmentionables were the buzzwords of choice at the HUG Gala Wednesday evening in Midtown Manhattan.
The annual Project Help Us Give Gala — now in its 64th year — was formed by leaders in the lingerie and swimwear industries to raise money for charity. Executives from brands like Wacoal, Lively, PVH Corp., Ross Stores and Miraclesuit all donned their finest attire as they gathered in the penthouse of 230 Fifth Avenue to mingle over fancy cocktails and the sounds of jazz singer Pucci Amanda Jhones.
“I’m not sure who put together the gift bags, but usually it takes me a full day in the sun to turn the same shade of the lingerie that was in those bags,” Dr. Steven Flanagan, medical director at Rusk Rehabilitation at NYU Langone Health, told the crowd of more than 200 people as they nibbled on New York steak and ravioli. He was referring to the scarlet-colored, lacy thong that was a party favor.

Guests at the 2019 Project HUG Gala in New York City.
Courtesy

Despite the light-hearted shenanigans, the event had a serious undertone. It helped raise more than $200,000 for the Hassenfeld Children’s Hospital at NYU Langone and the Pediatric

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/intimates/project-hug-gala-nyc-intimates-swimwear-industries-1203366525/

      

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Giambattista Valli Sets New Strategy for The Giamba Line

MILAN — Giambattista Valli has reorganized the schedule of the collections under the Giamba moniker.
The strategy, which the designer developed for his Giamba line, founded in 2014 to complement the main Giambattista Valli line with playful, underground and somewhat sexy designs, includes the release of two collections a year, instead of four.
According to a company spokesperson, the new strategy better responds to the needs of retailers that require getting products in stores early in the season.
Giamba unveiled this course with the spring 2020 season, when the brand presented a single collection, unveiled to buyers in July in conjunction with the resort schedule.

Giamba Resort 2020
Courtesy Photo

Recently, the Roman designer, who also operates a couture line introduced in 2011, collaborated with Swedish fast-fashion giant H&M on a capsule collection, which was celebrated on Oct. 24 with a runway show followed by an event in his native city.
In 2017, Artémis, the investment arm of the Pinault family, took a minority stake in the Giambattista Valli company. Artémis is the majority shareholder of the global luxury group Kering, led by François-Henri Pinault. It also owns the auction house Christie’s; several prestigious vineyards, including Château Latour; the luxury cruise specialist Ponant; the Fnac Darty group; the weekly

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/giambattista-valli-sets-new-strategy-for-the-giamba-line-1203366054/

      

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Giambattista Valli Sets New Strategy for The Giamba Line

MILAN — Giambattista Valli has reorganized the schedule of the collections under the Giamba moniker.
The strategy, which the designer developed for his Giamba line, founded in 2014 to complement the main Giambattista Valli line with playful, underground and somewhat sexy designs, includes the release of two collections a year, instead of four.
According to a company spokesperson, the new strategy better responds to the needs of retailers that require getting products in stores early in the season.
Giamba unveiled this course with the spring 2020 season, when the brand presented a single collection, unveiled to buyers in July in conjunction with the resort schedule.

Giamba Resort 2020
Courtesy Photo

Recently, the Roman designer, who also operates a couture line introduced in 2011, collaborated with Swedish fast-fashion giant H&M on a capsule collection, which was celebrated on Oct. 24 with a runway show followed by an event in his native city.
In 2017, Artémis, the investment arm of the Pinault family, took a minority stake in the Giambattista Valli company. Artémis is the majority shareholder of the global luxury group Kering, led by François-Henri Pinault. It also owns the auction house Christie’s; several prestigious vineyards, including Château Latour; the luxury cruise specialist Ponant; the Fnac Darty group; the weekly

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/giambattista-valli-sets-new-strategy-for-the-giamba-line-1203366054/

      

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Kris Van Assche Customizes Pierre Jeanneret Furniture

PARIS — Kris Van Assche has found a way to combine his passion for Pierre Jeanneret furniture with his role as creative director of shoemaker Berluti.
The designer is collaborating with the Paris-based Laffanour Galerie Downtown on 17 original Jeanneret furniture pieces from the Fifties, reupholstered in Berluti’s signature patinated Venezia leather. The series will be presented in a showroom in Miami’s Design District during Art Basel Miami Beach from Dec. 2 to 8.
Van Assche has a longstanding relationship with François Laffanour, who specializes in pieces by design icons such as Charlotte Perriand, Jean Prouvé and Le Corbusier. The two previously collaborated on a series of light sculptures by Isamu Noguchi, including some customized by Van Assche, during his tenure at Dior Homme.
This time around, Laffanour has restored a selection of pieces created by Jeanneret to furnish Chandigarh, the planned city designed by Le Corbusier after India’s independence. Jeanneret, Le Corbusier’s cousin, was appointed chief architect of the site and created complete lines of furniture for public and private buildings.
Van Assche is something of a super-fan. Having bought his first Jeanneret pieces from Laffanour more than a decade ago, he estimates 80 percent of the furniture in his home is by the

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/kris-van-assche-customizes-pierre-jeanneret-furniture-with-berluti-patinated-leather-1203362938/

      

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Kris Van Assche Customizes Pierre Jeanneret Furniture

PARIS — Kris Van Assche has found a way to combine his passion for Pierre Jeanneret furniture with his role as creative director of shoemaker Berluti.
The designer is collaborating with the Paris-based Laffanour Galerie Downtown on 17 original Jeanneret furniture pieces from the Fifties, reupholstered in Berluti’s signature patinated Venezia leather. The series will be presented in a showroom in Miami’s Design District during Art Basel Miami Beach from Dec. 2 to 8.
Van Assche has a longstanding relationship with François Laffanour, who specializes in pieces by design icons such as Charlotte Perriand, Jean Prouvé and Le Corbusier. The two previously collaborated on a series of light sculptures by Isamu Noguchi, including some customized by Van Assche, during his tenure at Dior Homme.
This time around, Laffanour has restored a selection of pieces created by Jeanneret to furnish Chandigarh, the planned city designed by Le Corbusier after India’s independence. Jeanneret, Le Corbusier’s cousin, was appointed chief architect of the site and created complete lines of furniture for public and private buildings.
Van Assche is something of a super-fan. Having bought his first Jeanneret pieces from Laffanour more than a decade ago, he estimates 80 percent of the furniture in his home is by the

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/kris-van-assche-customizes-pierre-jeanneret-furniture-with-berluti-patinated-leather-1203362938/

      

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EXCLUSIVE: Prada, Adidas Team on Long-term Collaboration

MILAN — Two powerhouses are joining forces, each bringing its unique expertise.
Prada and Adidas are launching a long-term collaboration with the goal to “investigate the realms of heritage, technology and innovation — and to challenge conventional wisdom through unexpected strategies,” the two companies said in a joint statement exclusively revealed to WWD. “The new vision draws inspiration from the rich legacies of both to reengineer timeless icons, and leverages the houses’ technological footprint to innovate. The path is an evolving and dynamic structure composed of key milestones, marking a significant departure from existing patterns while building on the houses’ strong milieu of shared approaches and pursuits.”
The initial result of the collaboration will be the release of two limited-edition Prada for Adidas styles, with a first model to be launched for men and women globally in December and made entirely by Prada in Italy.
The announcement follows a social media tease on Thursday, when both companies posted a photo on Instagram of Adidas and Adidas Originals shoe boxes peeking out of a classic white Prada shopping bag. The hashtag read #pradaforadidas.
The Italian luxury goods house and the leading Germany-based sportswear brand are keeping details of the Prada for Adidas partnership under wraps for the

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/exclusive-prada-adidas-team-on-long-term-collaboration-1203361961/

      

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EXCLUSIVE: Prada, Adidas Team on Long-term Collaboration

MILAN — Two powerhouses are joining forces, each bringing its unique expertise.
Prada and Adidas are launching a long-term collaboration with the goal to “investigate the realms of heritage, technology and innovation — and to challenge conventional wisdom through unexpected strategies,” the two companies said in a joint statement exclusively revealed to WWD. “The new vision draws inspiration from the rich legacies of both to reengineer timeless icons, and leverages the houses’ technological footprint to innovate. The path is an evolving and dynamic structure composed of key milestones, marking a significant departure from existing patterns while building on the houses’ strong milieu of shared approaches and pursuits.”
The initial result of the collaboration will be the release of two limited-edition Prada for Adidas styles, with a first model to be launched for men and women globally in December and made entirely by Prada in Italy.
The announcement follows a social media tease on Thursday, when both companies posted a photo on Instagram of Adidas and Adidas Originals shoe boxes peeking out of a classic white Prada shopping bag. The hashtag read #pradaforadidas.
The Italian luxury goods house and the leading Germany-based sportswear brand are keeping details of the Prada for Adidas partnership under wraps for the

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/exclusive-prada-adidas-team-on-long-term-collaboration-1203361961/

      

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Ones to Watch: Perfect Number Collection Launches With Los Angeles Arts District Aesthetic

Williamsburg, Dalston, the Marais…L.A.’s Arts District. The neighborhood that’s attracted Dover Street Market, Warner Music Group, and soon a Soho House has a street fashion aesthetic all its own, at least according to the designer of a new label to watch, Perfect Number, headquartered on Traction Avenue not far from Amiri, Fear of God and other rising, made-in-L.A. brands.
“There is an easiness to the way people dress, they are not trying to fit into the social norms like in other parts of L.A…it’s slightly utilitarian and functional but making an effort,” said designer Nicola Morgan, previously at Givenchy, Lanvin, and Mugler in Paris, of her inspiration for the women’s direct-to-consumer brand.
Downtown grit mixed with L.A. glam, Perfect Number is comprised of functional pieces with feminine polish, sport and military touches. Available now, a relaxed-fit blazer has utility strap details and removable patch pockets inspired by tactical vests. Boxer shorts, slip dresses and turtlenecks with open sleeves are rendered in lipstick red or blush sequins. A nude deconstructed tulle sweatshirt is cinched at the waist with a toggle cord lock, and styled over a matching Lycra unitard for an elevated sport look. An oversize parka in glossy red PVC adds a

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/perfect-number-collection-los-angeles-arts-district-1203191740/

      

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Andrea Incontri to Exit Tod’s

MILAN — After five years, Andrea Incontri is exiting Tod’s and leaving his role as men’s wear creative director of the brand. His last day is June 30.
Incontri said Tod’s had been “a school and an important experience in [his] development,” thanking chairman and chief executive officer Diego Della Valle and his brother Andrea for their “support and enthusiasm.” In turn, Diego Della Valle emphasized Incontri’s contribution over the years.
An architecture graduate from the Politecnico di Milano, Incontri, who launched his namesake brand in 2009, won the men’s edition of the “Who Is on Next?” talent search in 2010 in the accessories category. The designer quickly extended his label to men’s wear, delivering collections with a strong attention to detail and use of high-end materials.
 In 2012, Incontri added a women’s collection, which made its debut as part of the Italian Fashion Chamber’s official fashion week schedule in February 2013.
Tod’s last Sunday presented its men’s spring 2020 collection at Milan’s Villa Necchi Campiglio developed around the theme of driving, which is also part of the brand’s heritage. Sources speculated then an exit could be imminent because Incontri was not as actively present during the presentation as he had been in

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/andrea-incontri-to-exit-tods-1203193803/

      

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Christian Louboutin Plots Paris Exhibition

When Christian Louboutin was growing up in Paris, heels were not allowed at the Palais de la Porte Dorée, an Art Deco gem dedicated to African and Asian arts.
Sweet revenge comes in February 2020, when the museum, whose partial restoration was funded by the luxury shoemaker, will house an exhibition devoted to Louboutin’s creativity and his diverse aesthetic passions.
“It’s an open window to my brain,” was how Louboutin summed up the vast showcase, where more than 200 pairs of shoes will be sprinkled among an eclectic mix of art works, furnishings, installations, performance pieces and some fashion items, including crosses and crowns. “The heel is back in the museum in full force, only it’s not only an exhibition of high heels. We have flat shoes, too.”
The delicate mosaics and parquet floors are what compelled the museum to ban spindly footwear back in the day. And its ornamental splendor is what sparked Louboutin’s passion for decorative arts, which would become a key source of inspiration for the future designer.
In an interview on Thursday, Louboutin recalled being awed by the tall doors sheltering one of the museum’s sumptuous salons, its door handles made of jutting horns that evoked the wonder of Africa.

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/christian-louboutin-plots-paris-exhibition-1203187679/

      

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EXCLUSIVE: Kim Jones Taps Daniel Arsham to Design Dior Show Set

PARIS — Time waits for no man — especially not guests at the Dior men’s show.
A teaser image on Instagram for Friday’s display by Kim Jones, to be held at the Institut du Monde Arabe in Paris, features an eroded wall clock with rapidly spinning hands, dropping a major hint about the artist he has chosen to collaborate with this season: Daniel Arsham.
Known for his immersive exhibitions featuring objects that look like they have been salvaged from the past — a concept he has dubbed “fictional archeology” — and for his collaborations with brands like Adidas, Arsham designed the set for the show and also worked on the collection itself.
Guests arriving at the venue will walk through a room inspired by founder Christian Dior’s office, dotted with the kind of petrified objects that Arsham refers to as future relics.
“It’s not based on any one particular space. It’s kind of an amalgamation of the studio in Paris, his house in the south of France, and then detailed photos of a particular image of him on the phone, making drawings or writing notes at his desk,” the artist told WWD.
“We kind of pulled out these different elements, and a couple of the

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/exclusive-kim-jones-taps-daniel-arsham-to-design-dior-show-set-1203188873/

      

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Spotlighting Vintage Denim: Elleti Group Unveils Museum, Opens Archive

SAN BONIFACIO, Verona — Around 100 rare pieces of vintage denim were showcased inside a minimal space adjacent to the premises of garment-maker and laundry company Elleti Group in San Bonifacio, a small town on the outskirts of Verona.
On Wednesday night, the company founded in 1982 unveiled M.O.D.E., or Museum of Denim Elleti Group, gathering a range of denim industry heavyweights to celebrate the opening.
Dating as far back as the mid-18th century, denim garments on show were distressed, worn-out and damaged while retaining their silhouettes and bearing the signs of time, as well as the history of their wearer. For instance, a Forties baggy style was splashed with the “PW” lettering, which stood for “prisoner of war,” as the pants once belonged to a World War II prisoner.
In addition to a number of styles from Levi’s, Lee and Wrangler, which make up the majority of Elleti Group’s collection, smaller brands — some of which are no longer in business — were also represented. They include Los Angeles’ Stronghold, J.C. Penney-owned Big Mac, San Francisco-based Boss of the Road, as well as Japanese firms.
“The museum is a tribute to jeans through a hundred garments we collected over the years with the

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/denim/elleti-group-unveils-museum-opens-archive-1203190378/

      

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