Fashion

Tommy Hilfiger Shutters Global Flagship on Fifth Avenue

NEW YORK – In a move to stay ahead of the continually changing shopping preferences of digitally-savvy North American consumers, Tommy Hilfiger has today closed his 22,000-square-foot global flagship at 681 Fifth Avenue, another loss to the famed Manhattan shopping street.
In addition, Hilfiger will close its store on Collins Avenue in Miami on April 28.
It’s been a tough time for Fifth Avenue, with stores ranging from Lord & Taylor to the Gap and Henri Bendel vacating the avenue. Ralph Lauren Corp. got out of a 15-year lease when the brand closed its Polo flagship at 711 Fifth Ave. in 2017, after three years in the location.
Hilfiger opened the four-level Fifth Avenue flagship to much fanfare in 2009, calling it “pinnacle moment” for the brand. The store, designed by Callison Architects and the Hilfiger creative team, was formerly occupied by Fortunoff and was originally designed by McKim, Mead and White.
The store was designed with Hilfiger’s traditional American iconography and presented in new and unexpected ways. At the opening, for example, the décor featured a blue Cadillac fender and a blue surf board, red Marshall amp, a white vintage Sixties television monitor and an old ice skate. A black patent leather sofa

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EXCLUSIVE: Pharrell Williams Features in Short Film for Chanel Collaboration

PARIS — Pharrell Williams has been a Chanel model, film star, composer and brand ambassador. This week, he will make his debut in his new role as codesigner of a capsule collection with the French luxury brand that is set to bow exclusively on Thursday at the opening of Chanel’s first flagship boutique in Seoul.
To mark the launch, Williams has stepped in front of the camera again for a short film featuring a gang of women and men on a nocturnal road trip, dressed in the rainbow outfits of the Chanel-Pharrell collection — think sweatshirts with embroidered graffiti, terry-cloth bucket hats and oodles of rhinestone jewelry.
In behind-the-scenes footage shared exclusively with WWD, the multihyphenate explained the process that brought him together with the late Karl Lagerfeld, Chanel’s creative director for 36 years, starting with their sneaker launch at the now-defunct Paris concept store Colette in 2017.
“This campaign and this film are about a capsule collection, something that they’ve never done in the history of the brand. They do that not with a designer, but with a musician with ambition and dreams,” Williams said.
The “Happy” singer, who has received 12 Grammy Awards and heads the multimedia collective I Am Other, was previously

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Cindy Crawford Marks L.A.’s New Beach Glam Brand Le Superbe

OG L.A. fashion tastemaker Jeannine Braden is gilding the beach with her contemporary label Le Superbe, which had its coming out party last week at the Brentwood boutique Permanent Vacation, with Cindy Crawford, Jenny Belushi, Heidi Brooks and more in attendance.
“She has always understood what makes L.A. style unique,” said Crawford of her pal, whom she has known for 20 years, while dressed in the label’s zebra-patterned sequined pencil skirt and silk top.
“It’s about West Coast beaches with Hollywood in your backyard.” That’s how Braden describes Le Superbe’s offering of feather-trimmed and sequined-dusted Hawaiian-print pencil skirts and minidresses (one named after L.A.’s famed Giorgio’s nightclub), alongside Aloha shirts with crystal trim, palm-and-leopard-print pajama pants and kimonos, vintage-inspired “Cobain” boyfriend cardigans with jeweled shell patches, and baseball Ts with irreverent slogans such as “Nobody Owns the Beach.” The collection sells for $150 to $995 at 150 retail doors, Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and Ron Herman among them.

Jeannine Braden and Cindy Crawford

Michael Buckner/WWD/REX/Shutterstock

Venice, Calif. native Braden has been a been a fixture on the L.A. style scene since the Nineties, when she started as a music video stylist (she and Belinda Carlisle were roomies), before launching into retail with

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Figure Skaters’ Costumes, Artistry Wins Them Celebrity-like Endorsements

SAITAMA, JAPAN — More than a dress, figure skating costumes are an opportunity to communicate a larger concept with viewers and judges — strategically designed to complement a routine’s music and emphasize its theme. At Friday night’s ISU World Figure Skating Championships — held at the Saitama Super Arena — this meant spandex, rhinestone-laden interpretations of famous stage works such as “Carmen,” “Chicago” and “Romeo & Juliet.”
Skating enlists an extreme athleticism that sees athletes hurtling themselves three, and now increasingly four, rotations into the air and spinning so rapidly that their body encounters multiple G-forces. The sport is unique, however, in that visual presentation plays an equally important role in an athlete’s success, placing costumes in a vital position.
Skating’s athletic romance and expressive fashions have helped create a significant fanbase for the sport in countries including Russia, South Korea and Japan — where figure skaters are becoming household names and are beginning to appear in high-profile campaigns for major beauty and fashion brands.
“I think what differentiates skating from other sports is that it’s also not only about athleticism. There is an artistic component, which complicates things enormously,” said designer Vera Wang, formerly a nationally ranked skater, who also creates costumes

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John Nollet Wigs-out for Schiaparelli

If Elsa met John…
Elsa Schiaparelli, the trailblazing designer who died in 1973, loved nature and the zodiac, and worked with artists such as Salvador Dalí. Parisian hairstylist John Nollet, whose client book reads like a list of Hollywood and French cinema A-listers, has a fondness for insects, the night sky and creating magic with whimsical wigs.
Nollet on Wednesday was in New York for “The Secret Garden of Elsa Schiaparelli” held at Bergdorf Goodman‘s fourth-floor butterfly-festooned Schiaparelli boutique, where he launched a collection of hair accessories inspired by Schiaparelli’s favorite themes — bugs, butterflies and shooting stars — and house codes such as padlocks.
“I used the DNA of the House of Schiaparelli. The base of the creations is feathers,” Nollet said of the delicate hair pieces. Some hug the head like an open cap, but are made from thin metal worked like filigree with butterflies in the design. Others have sprays of feathers decorated with rhinestones, inspired by Schiaparelli’s interest in the heavens.
“I met the Schiaparelli dream team at The Salons boutique at 1 Place Vendôme. They were working on the clothes and there was a big butterfly and insects,” Nollet said, explaining that creative director Bertrand Guyon’s spring haute couture

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North Sails Sponsors 151 Miglia-Trofeo Cetilar Regatta

MILAN — Sailmaking specialist North Sails is supporting the 10th edition of Italy’s 151 Miglia-Trofeo Cetilar regatta and has pushed the offshore competition to become completely plastic-free.
“It’s a partnership we care a lot about, because the 151 Miglia is one of the most important regattas in the Mediterranean Sea and also it allows us to stress our commitment to the sea and the oceans,” explained Elisa Riva, marketing director of North Sails, while unveiling the sponsorship at the company’s showroom here on Thursday evening. “Starting from its 10th edition the regatta becomes plastic-free.”
The sailing competition — which will take place on May 30 through the coasts of Livorno, Marina di Pisa, Punta Ala, Giraglia, Elba Island and Formiche di Grosseto, in the Tuscany region — has pledged to avoid the use of disposable plastics in all its catering services and replacing it with glass and compostable materials.
“We never set up sponsorships but rather partnerships based on shared values,” explained Roberto Lacorte, founder of the regatta and chief executive officer of pharmaceutical company PharmaNutra, the main sponsor of the event. “We strongly identify with North Sails for the way they embody and represent the sailing world.”
In keeping with its commitments to raise

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Street Signs: The New Underground: Arab-Influenced Streetwear in Europe’s Fashion Capital

“Oriental is the new black,” as Christian Marie, one of the founders of Paris-based streetwear label Ldn-istan likes to put it. And he is confident of that. So confident in fact that he and the label’s creative director, Hamida Aman, are betting their business on it.
It could turn out to be an excellent wager. In Europe, a multicultural movement — which includes everything from hipster falafel shops to Arab-inspired techno and pop music — is the result of second- and third-generation Europeans rediscovering their Middle Eastern roots, as well as new waves of migrants finding their place on the continent. In the clothing business, signs include the increasing importance of the Middle Eastern market for streetwear — especially hyped and hard-to-find labels — as demonstrated by the success of events like Sole DXB in Dubai and various high-profile collaborations, with brands like Puma, Nike and the NBA teaming with Arab designers.
In its fourth season now, Ldn-istan sells out of a boutique in Paris’ Pigalle neighborhood. Marie and Aman have also been touring various trade shows, including Sole DXB, Who’s Next in Paris, Seek in Berlin and Pure London. On Thursday, they hosted a showcase and party at well-known Parisian night

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Is L.A. the Future of the American Runway?

LOS ANGELES — Has the time come for Los Angeles to take the lead?
Hollywood hero Tom Ford being elected chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, and L.A.-born label Rodarte staging a spectacular flower-filled February runway show at the Huntington Library, Art Collections and Botanical Gardens in San Marino, Calif., are two signs that the industry could finally consider having an organized fashion week or series of runway events here. The idea is especially compelling now that the next Oscars date — Feb. 9, 2020 — will overlap with New York Fashion Week’s fall 2020 season, and sponsorship opportunities for shows in New York are becoming harder to find.
“The talent is here,” said Elyse Walker, the longtime L.A. retailer with luxury multilabel boutiques in the Pacific Palisades and Newport Beach, and the fashion director of online site Fwrd by Elyse Walker. “And everyone wants to be in L.A. or come to L.A. I think, if you build it they will come.”
Seven years after Hedi Slimane brought his Saint Laurent atelier and international attention to the SoCal style scene, L.A. is still rising. The Frieze L.A. Art Fair had a successful debut in February at Paramount Studios with a

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What Should Tom Ford’s Top Priorities Be at the CFDA?

Designers reacted positively Wednesday to the news that Tom Ford has been elected chairman of the CFDA — and had a lengthy “to do” list of the challenges he faces when he takes over in June.
While they praised the work Diane von Furstenberg has done over the last 13 years — working with Steven Kolb, chief executive officer of CFDA — to galvanize the American fashion industry, they say they are looking forward to Ford’s tenure and what he’ll do to bring a more global perspective to their businesses.
New York Fashion Week remains one of the thorniest issues on Ford’s plate, and a few women’s wear designers had ideas on how he could make changes to the semiannual event. NYFW: Men’s presents another problem, and some believe it got off on the wrong foot. They are hoping Ford, who has a luxury men’s business, can improve the event and have some impact to help the men’s business gain more respect.
Continuing the work the CFDA has started on diversity, sustainability, body image and other important issues remain paramount, they stressed.
But while the designers laid out the welcome mat, they had a lot to say about the tasks ahead for Ford:
Prabal Gurung:

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Hailey Baldwin, Pro-Surfer Kelia Moniz Talk Roxy Sister Line

MALIBU — Hailey Baldwin and Kelia Moniz sat in the VIP offices of Palisades Village, fielding questions about their friendship hours ahead of a launch party for their new line from Roxy, called Sister.
It’s an apt name for a four-season collection inspired by the pair’s friendship, which was evident as they did their rounds with press, sharing laughs as Baldwin passed a cell phone to Moniz to show her a series of text messages the two then giggled about.
“We’re friends, but we’re a lot more than that and I think the next step of that is basically sisters,” Moniz said. “I don’t have a sister so I feel like a lot of the girls in my life become sisters.”
Moniz, who married one of Baldwin’s friends, said that’s how the two met and they instantly bonded.
The deal with Roxy, which calls for four collections to be released across a two-year period, was celebrated at a launch party at the Little Beach House Malibu Tuesday evening.
The first season is a highly curated assortment, Roxy global general manager Emilie Souvras said, using pale pinks and grays mixed in with some metallics and white across 15 stockkeeping units.
The assortment is heavy on swim — one pieces

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History Boy: Manolo Blahnik, The Wallace Collection Creates a Unique Show

LONDON — It’s an aesthetic match made in heaven: Art, architecture and history buff Manolo Blahnik is teaming with the Wallace Collection, a trove of fine and decorative arts and Old Master works, on a show meant to spotlight some of the designer’s great inspirations, WWD has learned.
When he’s not working or traveling, Blahnik likes to spend time wandering the grand rooms of The Wallace Collection, a few minutes’ walk from his company’s headquarters in Marylebone, taking in paintings by Rembrandt, Titian, Rubens, Velazquez, Canaletto and Boucher crowded onto the silk-covered walls.
Frans Hals’ painting “Laughing Cavalier” hangs there, as does Jean-Honoré Fragonard’s Rococo work, “The Swing,” which shows a little silk slipper flying off a young woman’s foot toward her lover. Built up in the 18th and 19th centuries by the Marquesses of Hertford and an heir, Sir Richard Wallace, the collection is among the most significant bodies of European fine and decorative arts in the world.

“The Swing” by Jean-Honoré Fragonard at The Wallace Collection in London.
Courtesy

“They were the Gettys of the 19th century,” Blahnik said in an interview, referring to the family’s impulse to collect, “and the collection is just extraordinary. It’s like going to a private home, and wonderful in

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Bridget Foley’s Diary: Tom Ford on CFDA, Houses — and Melania Trump

Tom Ford almost skipped over “Hello.” “Which one of these things do you want to ask me first?” he pretend barked over the phone from Los Angeles.
Even by Ford’s high-profile, high-glamour, high-newsmaking standards, there were several compelling boxes to check. On Tuesday, the board of the CFDA made it official in a unanimous vote: Ford will succeed Diane von Furstenberg as the organization’s chairman. He assumes the post in June, after 13 years during which von Furstenberg has been the CFDA’s face, its guiding light and its heroine. That sea change was the original and primary purpose of our scheduled call.
But who doesn’t love a tony real estate angle? Earlier in the day, WWD reported that Ford bought Halston’s famed house on East 63rd Street in New York in a deal that closed in January, but he’d managed to keep quiet until now. It would have been nifty news even had Halston not been a major influence on Ford’s career.
Rounding out the topics: Tom’s supposed slam at Melania Trump. It came from out of nowhere on Tuesday morning, swiftly reaching Twitter’s number-two trending topic.
Despite his opening question, Ford preferred to set the agenda himself. “Let’s get the other stuff out

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CFDA Awards: The Nominees Are…

The Council of Fashion Designers of America has revealed the nominees and honorees for the 2019 CFDA Fashion Awards, which will take place June 3 at the Brooklyn Museum.
The nominees for Womenswear Designer of the Year are Brandon Maxwell, Marc Jacobs, Kate Mulleavy and Laura Mulleavy for Rodarte, Rosie Assoulin and Sander Lak for Sies Marjan.
Vying for Menswear Designer of the Year are Mike Amiri for Amiri; Virgil Abloh for Off-White; Kerby Jean-Raymond for Pyer Moss; Rick Owens, and Thom Browne for Thom Browne New York.
Jennifer Fisher for Jennifer Fisher Jewelry; Virgil Abloh for Off-White; Tabitha Simmons; Telfar Clemens for Telfar, and Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen for The Row are the contenders for Accessory Designer of the Year.
The nominees for Emerging Designer of the Year are Emily Adams Bode for Bode; Beth Bugdaycay for Foundrae; Heron Preston; Catherine Holstein for Khaite, and Sarah Staudinger and George Augusto for Staud.
The CFDA will also give out several honorary awards that evening.
Valentino Garavani and Giancarlo Giammetti, through their foundation, are underwriting the International Award. The nonprofit Fondazione Valentino Garavani e Giancarlo Giammetti is focused on charity and the promotion of culture and art. This year’s Valentino Garavani and Giancarlo Giammetti International Award will be

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Investors Said to Be Eyeing Etro

DEAL OR NO DEAL?: A decision on the Roberto Cavalli sale is imminent, a few days after Brunello Cucinelli revealed his succession plans and Furla’s owner and president Giovanna Furlanetto admitted the brand has been courted but, at the same time, firmly denied the company is for sale. Last month, Trussardi was acquired by QuattroR Asset Management Co. against a backdrop that sees Italian companies tackle generational changes and merger and acquisition rumors swirl around other storied brands such as Buccellati. Last year, another family company, Missoni, sold a 41.2 percent stake to FSI Midmarket Growth Equity Fund, and Michael Kors Holdings bought Versace, renaming itself Capri Holdings.
Now Etro is in the mix. According to sources, investors have also been looking at the fashion brand, which last year celebrated its 50th anniversary with an exhibition in Milan named “Generation Paisley” — a reference to the company’s most recognizable pattern. Gerolamo Etro, known as Gimmo, founded the company in 1968 as a textile firm, and, with a forward-thinking initiative decided to invest in ready-to-wear and lifestyle in the Eighties, expanding into collections that ranged from perfumes to suitcases. The exhibit was conceived and put together by the family, which includes siblings

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Tom Ford Elected Chairman of the CFDA

Tom Ford has been elected chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America.
The appointment was ratified by the CFDA board of directors at a meeting Tuesday. Effective Jan. 1, 2020, Ford will succeed Diane von Furstenberg, who was named president of the CFDA in 2006 and became chairwoman in 2015.
WWD broke the news last week that Ford was in line to succeed von Furstenberg. Under von Furstenberg, along with Steven Kolb, chief executive officer of the CFDA, the organization has ushered in a period of unprecedented growth for American fashion, followed by the current period of volatility triggered by seismic changes within and outside of fashion.
Von Furstenberg had succeeded Stan Herman, who served in the role for 16 years.
Ford is the 11th person to hold the position, which had previously been titled president until it was upgraded to chairman for von Furstenberg in 2015. The roster of presidents has included Herman, Sydney Wragge, Norman Norell, Oscar de la Renta, Herbert Kasper, Bill Blass, Mary McFadden, Perry Ellis and Carolyne Roehm.
While the vote took place at the CFDA board meeting, most of the meeting was expected to focus on the upcoming CFDA Fashion Awards gala.
Some 23 people serve on the

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Khrisjoy Shakes the High-End Puffer Market

MILAN — Spotted on street-style stars around the globe — including Vittoria Ceretti, Caroline Issa, Chiara Scelsi, Tamu McPherson and Candela Novembre — Khrisjoy padded jackets are stealing the spotlight in the urban outerwear arena.
First introduced as a capsule in June 2017 at the Milan luxury retailer Antonia, the Khrisjoy brand officially made its debut on the international market with a sales campaign in January 2018.
“The brand was born as my own personal fun project with no serious business plan or strategy involved,” said Khrisjoy founder Marzia Bellotti, who built her experience in different fashion areas, spanning from editing and styling to retail management, prior to establishing her label. “I had the idea of designing a puffer [that] could reflect my personal style.”
An eclectic spirit with an international background — she spent years in London and Madrid — Bellotti, who has a weakness for Eighties fashion, created Khris, a versatile puffer showing a cocooning silhouette rendered in a range of variations, making it perfect for being matched with both the most casual looks and more elegant outfits.

A style from Khrisjoy’s fall 2019 collection.
Courtesy Photo

“For example, you can wear it ‘off-the-shoulder’ on a night attire,” said Bellotti, who at the time

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ON STAFF: Gucci’s Marco Bizzarri Discusses Changemakers Project, Learning From Experience, Fostering Creativity

MILAN — “It’s been a period of great learning. It’s a little simplistic and easy to say ‘How could you not know?’” but it’s not as evident as it could have seemed,” Marco Bizzarri observed on Monday.
Gucci’s president and chief executive officer spoke with WWD about his company’s new global program called Changemakers that is part of its ongoing effort to foster unity through community action and opened up about the backlash the Italian luxury group experienced following accusations in February that a balaclava-style sweater evoked blackface.
Gucci Changemakers follows the company’s announcement last month of the first of four long-term initiatives to achieve cultural diversity and awareness throughout its organization and activities globally, and includes a fund for a total of $5 million over five years and a $1.5 million four-year scholarship program in North America. In addition, Gucci is fostering a global employee-volunteering framework that will fuel the company’s commitment to creating lasting social impact in communities and within the fashion industry.
“Gucci Changemakers is a project that accelerated after what happened — which caught us all by surprise — but it was announced internally last year and is part of our corporate culture initiative that we actually launched four years ago

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Seoul Fashion Designer Adds Modern Twist to Traditional Korean Dresses

SEOUL — Few foreigners know about the hanbok.
It’s the traditional Korean wedding dress, dating as far back as the 14th century. The floor-length gowns are best known for their empire waists, fitted jackets and vibrant colors.
These days, walking through Seoul’s many palaces, visitors can catch a glimpse of women donning hanboks in pretty pastels while trying to capture the perfect photo for Instagram.
But visitors to South Korea’s sprawling capital likely won’t see a hanbok anywhere else, despite the pleasing aesthetics. Even some modern-day Korean weddings opt to go hanbok-free, as the dress becomes a relic of the past.
Korean fashion designer Hyunsook Park wants to change all that. She wants hanbok fashions to break into mainstream couture, in both Korea and abroad.
“If the hanbok is not in everyday fashion, then it will disappear,” Park told WWD. “I want to keep the hanbok alive for other generations.”
Park’s been designing hanboks since 2014. But her designs aren’t of the traditional kind. The designer often wears pieces from her collection around Seoul and said her clothing can easily be mixed and matched with more casual attire, like jeans or shorts.
“You can wear it casually; you can wear it

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Rei Kawakubo to Be Presented With Isamu Noguchi Award

Rei Kawakubo will receive the 2019 Isamu Noguchi Award from the Noguchi Museum.
The award, which will be presented at the museum’s annual benefit on May 2, is given to individuals who share Isamu Noguchi’s spirit of innovation, global consciousness and commitment to East-West cultural exchange.
Kawakubo, founder of Comme des Garçons and cofounder of Dover Street Market, is also involved in graphic design, advertising and interiors for her businesses, which she considers to be inextricable components of her aesthetic vision. Her work has appeared in several exhibitions, including a solo exhibition at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2017, which was only the second monographic show awarded to a living designer by The Met. This year marks the 50th anniversary of Comme des Garçons.
According to The Museum, “Rei Kawakubo has consistently defied notions not only of beauty, but also of what fashion can be, at once confounding our expectations for clothing — and like Noguchi — challenging the idea that design and art are inherently different endeavors.”
Kawakubo received the Fashion Group International Award in 1986 and the Excellence in Design Award from the Harvard University Graduate School of Design in 2000. In 1993, she was named a Chevalier in the Order of

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Giorgio Armani Designs Off-Field Uniforms for the Italian Soccer Team

MILAN — Giorgio Armani has unveiled on Monday a new partnership with the Italian Soccer Federation.
In particular, the designer and the Italian sport institution have signed a four-year partnership that will see the country’s national soccer team wearing formal off-field Emporio Armani uniforms.
Previously, the Armani company created the uniforms for the Italian national soccer team for the 2012 and 2016 Olympics and for the 1994 World Cup. In addition, the fashion house designed the official uniforms for the Newcastle United, Chelsea and Bayern Munich soccer teams.
In all the official occasions, the members of the team will sport an Emporio Armani jersey suit, a shirt and an overcoat with detachable linings, all embellished with the Italian Soccer Federation’s shield. In addition, Armani designed shoes, a kit bag, a backpack, a belt, small leather goods and a pair of sunglasses.

Emporio Armani uniform for the Italian soccer team.
Courtesy Photo

“This agreement makes me particularly happy: I am returning to football after my experience with Chelsea and Bayern, and once again I am dressing the Italian national team, as I did for the 1994 World Cup,” Armani said. “I am proud to partner with the FIGC and to offer our athletes my idea of soft

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