Fashion

Barry and Sheryl Schwartz Feted at FIT for Donation and Scholarship Fund

It was a Calvin Klein reunion of sorts Thursday night, when Barry Schwartz, co-founder and former chairman of Calvin Klein Inc., and his wife Sheryl were honored at the Fashion Institute of Technology.
The Schwartzes donated to the Museum at FIT three sample coats that launched the Calvin Klein Inc. business in 1968. In addition, the Schwartzes have established a scholarship fund at FIT in their name, which will provide full tuition support to a student in financial need through all four years of their undergraduate studies at FIT.
Two of the original wool coats (a pale teal double-breasted version and a brown single-breasted) were launched for fall 1968, and one (a black-belted coat) was launched for the holiday season a few months later. The items, which were on display, had been in the Schwartzes’ cedar closet at their farm in Granite Springs, N.Y., where Sheryl has amassed a vast collection of Calvin Klein clothing over the years.
The inspiration behind the display came from the facade of the York Hotel, where Klein and Schwartz started the brand in room 613. After months of putting the line together, the label took off after Donald O’Brien, vice president of Bonwit Teller, saw a coat

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North Sails Supports Plastic-Free Nightlife Initiative

North Sails is taking its fight against disposable plastics a step further by engaging Milan’s night owls.
The sailmaking specialist is partnering with Worldrise, the nonprofit set up by the brand’s ambassador and marine biologist Mariasole Bianco, to enroll a number of the city’s nightclubs to go plastic free by the end of 2019.
By adhering to the project, called “No Plastic More Fun,” the nightclubs have all pledged to replace disposable plastics with eco-friendly alternatives, including bio-plastic glasses, which are both biodegradable and compostable, and aluminum water bottles, as well as avoiding the use of straws.
The initiative will officially kick off on the evening of May 4, renamed “Blue Night: The Sea Stars From Here.”
“Plastics don’t have to be demonized, instead its use and abuse are critical,” said Elisa Riva, marketing director of North Sails, while unveiling the partnership at Milan’s City Aquarium on Friday.
“Our roots have been always connected to the sea. We believe it’s important to keep networking with public and private institutions and nonprofits to obtain positive results,” she added, recalling how the company has been implementing different initiatives to reach all ages and targets, in this case young adults.
“The audience of such a project is made of

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Adidas Leans on Heritage With Return of Adidas Sports Club

COACHELLA, CALIF. — Sometimes answers to innovation and what’s next can indeed reside in the past.
Adidas certainly wound back the clock in some respects, going back in time to tap a concept from its archives, bringing to life its version of the modern-day salon during its activation around this year’s Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival. It’s not a new idea, conceived originally by the brand’s founder Adi Dassler who, some three decades ago, began pooling talent from across sports and design for the Adidas Sport Hotel.
The sportswear firm’s three-day roster of activities at the 50-acre Zenyara Estate in Coachella, taking place the same weekend as the Coachella music festival, was a new take on the concept that emerged in the Sixties, weaving in athletes, influencers, music artists and others to mix and mingle. Some might call that one big party. Adidas’ ambitions appear to reside somewhere more on the philosophical side of things.
“We are always a brand that is trying to bring creatives together and realize their creative ambitions and break barriers to creativity to take things to the next level,” said Adidas Originals senior director of North America Christine Sheehan. “We have a history of doing this; 747 [Warehouse in

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Ben Sherman Inks Partnership With Team GB for 2020 Tokyo Summer Olympic Games

LONDON — British men’s wear brand Ben Sherman has signed a multi-year agreement as an official supporter of Team GB for the Tokyo 2020 Summer Olympic Games, and beyond. An announcement is expected Monday.
The clothing brand, known for its slim-fitting silhouettes, will create exclusive looks to be worn by the British athletes during the official opening ceremony. It will also create an additional Olympic capsule collection for retail in May 2020. Proceeds from the sales will support British Olympians.
Mark Williams, creative director of Ben Sherman said: “The design elements will hold true to the spirit of the Olympics and Great Britain. We want the athletes to feel an immense sense of achievement and unity while representing the nation during the opening ceremony.”
Cory M. Baker, chief operating officer at Marquee Brands, parent of Ben Sherman, said: “It’s a time to come together with pride and root for the athletes and icons that represent each country. The heritage of Ben Sherman embodies the spirit of the U.K. and gives us the opportunity to celebrate Team GB with amazing designs and fashion pieces.”
Tim Ellerton, British Olympic Association commercial director said, “We are already excited about the designs they have in mind.”
This is the second time

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François Girbaud’s Take on Sustainability

BERGAMO — “I’m upset,” admitted François Girbaud. The founder of French cult brand Marithé + François Girbaud was among the guests of the Denim Day organized on Friday by Italian textile machineries manufacturer Itema.
“It’s been 25 years I hear people talking about sustainability and I still don’t understand what we are talking about. I don’t see any progress. I think we need to understand what sustainability means,” he said during a panel on the evolution of sustainability in the denim chain. “They pretend to save the planet with circular economy, or with recycled plastic, but it’s just bulls–t. We need to educate people to make the difference.”
According to Girbaud, who around 1989 kicked off a journey aimed at making the denim industry more ecologically and socially responsible — for example, he boosted a battle against stone washing, a practice he actually invented — companies and designers should rely on creativity to find new solutions in terms of materials and machineries to reduce the impact on the environment, but most of all “to save people from slavery.”
In addition, Girbaud attacked the established fashion industry and the runway show system. “During the Paris shows, there are influencers, like Cara Delevingne, with billion

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Grace Kelly’s Wardrobe on Show at Christian Dior Museum

PARIS — Grace Kelly’s wardrobe is coming to Granville.
Beginning April 27, the Christian Dior Museum, located in the designer’s family home in Granville, Normandy, will welcome more than 85 dresses from Kelly’s personal wardrobe, as part of an exhibition dedicated to her close relationship to the house of Dior.
“Grace of Monaco, Princess in Dior” will showcase the large collection of Christian Dior pieces previously owned by Kelly, carefully preserved at the Monaco palace since her death in 1982. Running until Nov. 17, the exhibition is timed with what would have been her 90th birthday.
The Hollywood actress, who starred in Hitchcock’s “Rear Window” in 1954, chose to wear Christian Dior as she entered into Monegasque royalty, following her marriage to Prince Rainier III in 1956: she appeared in a Dior gown at her engagement ball held at the Waldorf Astoria in New York that year, and chose the “Colinette,” a haute couture creation from Christian Dior’s fall 1956 collection, to wear in her first official portrait as Princesse Grace of Monaco.
“Grace Kelly’s relationship with the maison Dior reveals the central place the house occupied in fashion at the time,” explained fashion historian Florence Müller, who curated the exhibition. To prepare the

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EXCLUSIVE: Elizabeth and James Lands Exclusively at Kohl’s

Kohl’s Corp. just landed a big one.
Elizabeth and James and Kohl’s have struck an exclusive partnership to bring the Elizabeth and James contemporary brand, founded by Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, to Kohl’s stores nationwide and Kohls.com, starting for holiday.
Kohl’s will be the exclusive retailer of Elizabeth and James apparel, handbags, and accessories. Elizabeth and James’ former apparel and accessories line, which shipped its last collection to upscale retailers’ brick and mortar stores in fall 2018, had been distributed to stores such as Bloomingdale’s, Saks Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus and Net-a-porter (although some fashion merchandise appears to be still available online). The fragrance will continue to be sold at upscale retailers.
In August 2015, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen took back the license of their contemporary brand Elizabeth and James from Los Angeles-based Jaya Apparel Group, which had held it since its inception in 2007. The first collection under the Olsens’ purview was for pre-fall 2016.
In 2016, market sources indicated that Elizabeth and James apparel and accessories was generating between $40 million and $50 million in wholesale volume.
The Olsens, who are three time CFDA winners, also design the highly successful luxury collection called The Row, which will continue to be sold at

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Combo Looks for the Knockout With Boxing-Inspired Activewear

Activewear start-ups continue to enter the market, with the segment showing no signs of fatigue. Combo Boxing looks to carve out a slice of the category, with a nod to the sport of boxing.
Its founders think they can make a good case that there’s room for their brand, particularly with the popularity of boxing boutiques and gym classes continuing to grow.
The just-launched company will start out direct-to-consumer in its first year but will eventually look into retail partners, in the vein of businesses such as a Bandier or Carbon38. Combo Boxing is also working out a deal with boxing studio Gloveworx that hasn’t yet been finalized, which could also mean distribution there. It would make sense with the brand’s core consumer in the gyms as Combo aims to position itself as the workout and daywear label of boxers who want something more fashionable than what’s already available.
The company plans to drop new items four times annually and then gauge market reaction. Combo tapped Alex Dimitrijevic to be creative director. Dimitrijevic comes to Combo after having served as head designer at Equipment, in addition to prior stints as designer at AG and design director for Assembled Brands.
“There wasn’t anything to represent women

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Caroline Brown Joins Closed Loop Partners as Managing Director

Caroline Brown has been named managing director of Closed Loop Partners.
She begins April 22, which is Earth Day.
The investment firm, based in New York, is comprised of a private equity, venture capital and credit fund as well as an advisory services business focused on building the circular economy. In this role, Brown will lead the industry practice for fashion and beauty across all investment platforms for the firm.
Ron Gonen, chief executive officer of Closed Loop Partners, said, “We see tremendous disruption and opportunity in the fashion industry as it recognizes the opportunity to develop circular business models and become more sustainable. Caroline’s experience and industry leadership will be invaluable as CLP expands its strategy into the fashion and beauty category.”
Brown said, “It’s inspiring to be joining the team at Closed Loop Partners who have pioneered a new way of merging investment and innovation to advance a circular economy. Through demonstrated commitment to early stage technologies, collaborative innovation and creative founders, CLP has built a path for strong investment returns and invaluable social impact.
“I am excited to leverage this foundation through investments within fashion and beauty where sustainable solutions have become leading priorities today,” she added.
A highly regarded fashion executive, Brown

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Moore From L.A.: How Hollywood Can Lead Fashion’s Diversity Push

“I, Spike Lee Of Sound Mind And Body Will No Longer Wear Prada Or Gucci Until They Hire Some Black Designers To Be In Da Room When It Happens. It’s Obvious To Da Peoples That They Don’t Have A Clue When It Comes To Racist, Blackface Hateful Imagery.”
When the “BlacKkKlansman” director posted this to his Instagram account on Feb. 8 during the heat of the Gucci, Prada and Burberry blackface and noose imagery scandals, it was a warning shot to fashion brands that the Hollywood talent they count on to be their most visible ambassadors might no longer be willing to fulfill that role — and in the thick of the high-stakes red-carpet season, too.
“Hollywood is at the front line of all these cultural discussions, and suddenly no one was going to wear these clothes again if something wasn’t done, and fast,” one p.r. told me of the panic that ensued internally at brands, adding that months of work, including custom gowns, were scrapped when talent decided to shun the offending labels for the remainder of the season.

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I,Spike Lee Of Sound Mind And Body Will No Longer Wear Prada Or Gucci

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Dudley Stephens Opens Pop-up on Bleecker Street

Dudley Stephens, a direct-to-consumer lifestyle fleece brand, will open a 600-square-foot pop-up shop at 400 Bleecker Street in New York today. The brand earlier this year opened The Townhouse, a brand discovery space at 2 Greenwich Avenue in Greenwich, Conn.
The Bleecker Street pop-up will stay open until May 5.
Dudley Stephens — whose collection is completely fleece — designs tops, dresses and outerwear for women and children. The clothing is made sustainably in Brooklyn from recycled yarn. The women’s line features such items as fleece cowl necks, outerwear, blazers, vests, ponchos, turtlenecks and cardigans. Retail prices range from $128 to $188.
The brand was founded three-and-a-half years ago by sisters Lauren Stephens and Kaki McGrath, with a conscious mission to make fleece fashionable. The sisters, who would spend summers on their parents’ boat and would wear a zip-up fleece, always wondered, “Why can’t this be a little cuter?” said McGrath, cofounder and chief operating officer.
The concept appears to be catching on.

Some of the Dudley Stephens looks.
Julia Dags

Stephens, cofounder and chief executive officer, attributes the company’s success to Instagram. “We’ve done a lot with with influencer outreach and lifestyle and fashion bloggers,” she said.
They did a collaboration with two bloggers, Lemonstripes.com and HappilyEvaAfter.com

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Browns Broadens Its Fashion Scope With Vintage, Couture — and High-Performance

LONDON — Browns has been translating its approach to a host of categories beyond traditional luxury.
The British retailer has been putting more focus on vintage labels that offer one-off, upcycled pieces; emerging brands sourced from fringe fashion weeks; couture; customizable fine jewelry, or on the other end of the spectrum, high-performance.
While these categories vary in price point and target audience, the company is aiming to maintain a common thread by adding its own lighthearted spirit on all launches.
In the case of high-performance — which is making its debut across the men’s and women’s departments — the focus has been on bringing together fashion-forward pieces with sports labels that have, in many cases, never worked with a fashion-led retailer before.
Head of men’s wear buying Dean Cook said it’s no longer unusual for performance and luxury fashion labels to sit next to each other on the shop floor, as the mix simply “reflects a customer’s lifestyle.” His edit for the category focuses on the worlds of cycling, running and hiking, with technical labels such as Pas Normal, POC and Soar as well as fitness and training items.
Browns has also tapped Rapha, the British performance cycling apparel brand, which is working with a luxury fashion

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At Home With Kom I, the Björk of Japan

She is a pop idol for misfits. Kom I, the lead singer of Wednesday Campanella, is considered the Björk of Japan: her delicate voice, genre-defying music and avant-garde fashion sense exude the same eclecticism for which the Scandinavian singer is known.
On a recent Saturday night, the 26-year-old Kanagawa native is lounging at home in Tokyo with her pet snake — under the weather from a raucous time the evening before. In her shared apartment, she reclines on her bed — little more than a Western mattress on the floor — taking sips of air to abate her nausea.
A self-proclaimed “chameleon,” Kom I’s popularity among young Japanese people comes at a key time — her music services a generation whose disenchantment with life, government and finances matches that of Millennials in the U.S. These jaded youths consider her a ringleader, guiding their escape from mass culture and limitless consumption.

Kom I’s pet snake named Hebi, which means “snake” in Japanese, inside her Tokyo flat.
Misty White Sidell/WWD

“I’m an outsider. It’s much easier to express yourself in the U.S. than in Japan, people react naturally there — when you feel something weird you can say it’s weird and react. People in Tokyo are more

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STREET SIGNS: Why Brands Open Their First Stores in Hong Kong

HONG KONG — The line of kids snaked down the narrow slope on Cochrane Street, waiting to get into a smallish two-story space decked out like an old VHS store from the Nineties.
It was the first pop-up for Drew House, Justin Bieber’s new clothing line, and nobody in line wanted to miss out. While the brand and its beige and yellow hoodies might have been inspired by the San Fernando Valley, it was in the Far East that fans first could snag the gear.
“The turnout was overwhelming to be honest,” said Ryan Good, cofounder of Drew House. “We couldn’t imagine the size of the crowds that gathered. We were truly blown away.”
Further pop-ups in other Asian cities and Western Europe may be in the works, Good said. Hong Kong was done rather “on a whim,” he said.
However, Hong Kong has attracted a slew of brands choosing to make their retail debut far away from the usual launchpads of New York, Paris or London.
In March, Palm Angels by Francesco Ragazzi opened its first global flagship here. Heron Preston showed up for the celebration, recalling the scene a few months earlier when Preston debuted his own first store on the same street.

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STREET SIGNS: Is Berlin the ‘Truest’ Streetwear Capital?

BERLIN — If succeeding in fashion involves being true to your DNA, should Berlin reposition itself as a capital of streetwear?
A good number of industry denizens certainly think it should.
“The truest streetwear in the world is in Berlin,” said designer Kostas Murkudis, a stalwart of the scene here who started his career working for Helmut Lang. For Murkudis, Berlin’s style is all about the intersection of music, art, architecture and nightlife, rather than trends. And he is not the only one who feels this way.
“I think what makes [Berlin style] so charming is that there’s not one specific style, people don’t dress to impress — so it does feel very real compared to other street style around the world,” agreed David Fischer, the founder of Highsnobiety, the streetwear-obsessed media platform with offices in Berlin and New York.
Berlin street style “is unique in how people mix styles and labels here,” added Simeon Dimitrov, who along with business partner Nikolai Goutzov, owns Superconscious, a Berlin boutique specializing in hard-to-find streetwear from South Korea and Scandinavia, among others. “People will buy Balenciaga shoes here, but they’ll wear them with second-hand items, whereas in Tokyo or Paris they’ll wear it with Vetements.”
According to a

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Bridget Foley’s Diary: To Have and to Hold

It was a fete to remember. Yes, for the glamour of it all. Not every wedding celebration stars a world-class celebrity and his dashing groom. The storied venue, The Grill and The Pool (no less iconic for having shed their Four Seasons affiliation), thus boasted a dazzling crowd with a through-the-roof glitterati quotient. Upwards of 650 guests came together at Saturday night’s party to celebrate the marriage of Marc Jacobs and Char Defrancesco, everyone dressed to the nines and eager to revel, many dancing under the huge disco ball well past the wee hours. There was talk of a 6 a.m. departure for some. I can personally attest to 4 a.m.
Indeed, the party provided serious people-watching ops for the mere mortals in the room, yet less so than at other events at which the famous and not comingle under one roof, drinking from the same Champagne cache and nibbling (or not) on the same passed hors d’oeuvres, here, wasabi lobster canapés, crab cakes, pigs in the blanket and sliders.
It was hard not to notice the likes of Christy Turlington; Naomi Campbell; Kate Moss with beautiful daughter Lila in tow; the Sisters Hadid; Lil’ Kim; Frank Ocean; Miss Fame; Rita Ora;

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Matchesfashion.com’s Lifestyle Push

LONDON — Modern-day style is evolving to encompass travel, interiors and homeware and Matchesfashion.com wants to keep up to speed.
That’s why the luxury fashion retailer debuted a home category last summer and, seeing traction from its global network of consumers, it’s now looking to expand its home offer, dabble in art and take its fashion edits to glamorous holidays — starting with the Il Pellicano hotel this summer.
“It’s a question of taste, it’s not only about how you dress but how you dress your table, how you dress your home and how you entertain. It’s all part of what’s a lifestyle,” said Martina Mondadori, editor in chief of Cabana magazine, which has just debuted a tabletop collection in partnership with Matches.
This concept of fashion beyond one’s wardrobe has become a growing focus for the retailer. It’s planning to highlight homeware more prominently on its web site with a new “At Home” column that will spotlight “lifestyle experts talking about style across all categories,” exclusive partnerships like the one with Cabana and a home offer that will expand beyond tabletop to include more ceramics and soft furnishings.
Additions include a new homeware line by Peter Pilotto — whose colorful aesthetic lends itself

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Wolaco Activewear Expanding Into Women’s

Ath-leisure be damned. Wolaco has its sights set on the true performance activewear market with the introduction of its first apparel collection for women.
Wolaco, which stands for Way of Life Athletic Company, was founded as a men’s active brand in 2015 by Terry White, who was frustrated by having to run with his phone in his hand and his keys in his sock because the major brands didn’t offer shorts with pockets to stash and protect his things.
So in the spare time from his corporate job, the former collegiate lacrosse player set out to design his own. It took him 1.5 years, but he finally perfected the North Moore short that features sweat-proof pockets and patented compression fabric. He launched on Kickstarter, and raised $122,000 within 48 hours.
Since that time, Wolaco has expanded its men’s offering to include a more-traditional running short, tights, tanks, T-shirts and long-sleeve technical tops as well as caps.
“I’d been an athlete my entire life,” he said. “I’m from New Jersey but played lacrosse for Harvard.” Once he left college and got a job, he was determined to stay fit and often ran around his home in New York. “But there was nothing in the branded

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Via:: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/activewear/wolaco-activewear-expanding-into-womens-1203099177/

      

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Gloria Steinem Talks About the Benefits of ‘Women Together’

Gloria Steinem talked passionately about what’s most important now at Eileen Fisher’s “Women Together” initiative Friday.
Steinem was the featured speaker at a full-day program intended to empower women to find their voices and connect with one another. The ticketed event, with 90 attendees, was also live-streamed before an audience of 235 people. It took place at the Eileen Fisher Learning Lab in Irvington, N.Y.
“I believe a collective energy emerges when women connect with other women,” said Eileen Fisher, founder and chairman of her brand. “Our Women Together events offer meaningful opportunities for women to connect more deeply — with themselves and one another.” She said her goal is to do these events once a month.
Titled “Revolution From Within,” the event was filled with women from several generations sitting in talking circles. The day also featured writer Jamia Wilson and international 5Rhythms movement leader Amber Ryan.
Steinem, who has been leading women in the movement for decades, was asked by Antoinette Klatzky, executive director and co-creator of the Eileen Fisher Leadership Institute, what’s important in this moment about women coming together.
“Well, that you do it,” said Steinem. “We are communal animals as human beings. We can’t function all by ourselves. There’s a

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Kathy Ireland on Building a Multibillion Brand Under the Radar

TUCSON, Ariz. — Kathy Ireland pivoted from fashion model to selling socks in a move that earned criticism from some, but she’s having the last laugh as sole owner of a $2 billion business.
The chair, chief executive officer and chief designer of Kathy Ireland Worldwide capped the University of Arizona’s Terry J. Lundgren Center for Retailing’s annual conference Friday with a talk on how she grew her company into the 26-year-old behemoth that includes apparel, accessories, home, pet products and FinTech. There’s also interest in entertainment. But it all started with a commodity product she was asked to help sell.
“I was an aging, pregnant model at my kitchen table and, to tell you the truth, I was offered the opportunity to model this pair of socks,” Ireland said of the business’ start. “We didn’t even know if they were going to use my face but it was a job and it was a time when not a lot of job offers were coming my way…so we started with a pair of socks. Some said it was counterintuitive. Some said it was stupid.…We wanted to build a real brand. Something that was not dependent on any little smidgen of celebrity I might

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