Eye

Rick Owens Debuts Birkenstock Collaboration at Le Bon Marché

PARIS — “Show days are like birthdays,” said a very smiley Rick Owens, who took over a space on the second floor of Le Bon Marché to debut his second collaboration with Birkenstock on Thursday, only a couple of hours after his men’s fall 2019 show.
“Everybody comes up to you and says nice things to you all day long,” gushed the designer, who took the time to chat with all the young fans who stopped by to check out his Birkenstock collection. “It’s lovely. I relish it. How could you not?”
The new installment of the Rick Owens x Birkenstock collaboration will be on sale exclusively at Le Bon Marché until Feb. 8, when it will drop online. Two other pop-ups in Hong Kong and Shanghai are planned for Jan. 23 and 25.
At the Parisian department store, all the different styles of the collection — the Arizona sandal in black and silver or gold foil, the Rotterdam sandal in leather and Velcro, but also a Rotterhiker boot with buckles — were showcased on blocks of raw black cork.

The Rotterdam sandal from the Rick Owens x Birkenstock collaboration.
Dominique MAITRE

“The brief for the set design was Mayan pyramids,” explained Owens. “The older I’m

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They Are…Teetotaling in Paris

PARIS — Call it the effects of Dry January, but Parisian Millenials are having serious second thoughts about hitting the bottle.
“Drinking is still fun, but I’ve decided to limit my alcohol intake to weekends only,” said Mathilde, a 27-year-old community manager. “I realized that I was drinking nearly every day and that I had put on weight. I needed to take care of my body.”
She shared her thoughts with her friend group and realized she wasn’t the only one wanting a break from alcohol. “I had stopped drinking for a while for medical reasons, and realized that my body felt a lot better,” said her friend Laurine, 28, who works in theater. “So we decided that for our weekly meet-ups, instead of a couple of bottles of wine, we would all bring food and Sanpellegrino.”
For Thierry Daniel, who created the Paris Cocktail Week, an annual mixology celebration hitting the French capital from Jan. 18 to 26, the rise of teetotalism amongst Millennials is due to a society shift toward wellness.
“People are paying more attention to what is going on with their bodies,” said Daniel, who adds that in the U.K. one-in-four 16- to 24-year-olds is a teetotaler and that the

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Le Bon Marché Toasts Joana Vasconcelos With Fado Concert

A NIGHT IN LISBON: Portuguese musician Paulo Bragança entertained guests at Le Bon Marché on Wednesday night, delivering a hypnotic fado performance, a music genre consisting of mournful songs to the sound of acoustic guitars that originated in Lisbon.
The musician, whose stage get-up prompted comparisons with both Ziggy Stardust-era David Bowie and The Cure frontman Robert Smith, is a friend of Joana Vasconcelos’, the Portuguese artist whose monumental installation is currently taking over the Parisian department store’s main staircase.
French actress Isabelle Huppert stopped by to greet Vasconcelos, posing for pictures alongside new talent Diane Rouxel, who is nominated for this year’s best actress award at the Césars, the French equivalent of the Oscars, for her role in “Marche Ou Crève.”
Don’t expect her to be starstruck, though. “I know Isabelle quite well, she was my chaperone when I was first nominated at the Césars three years ago,” said the 26-year-old-actress, who was joined by fellow thespian Ana Girardot in the foyer of Le Bon Marché.
Vasconcelos, who was wearing a white cape-like shift dress embroidered with rows of flowers, greeted artist and decorator India Mahdavi. “I think it’s fabulous that Le Bon Marché is honoring a woman artist tonight,” said Mahdavi, who famously

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Chanel Toasts Flagship With Peter Marino

Chanel’s new flagship on 57th Street got a proper New York welcome on Wednesday night. Architect Peter Marino held court at the boutique after hours, mingling with the intimate crowd stopping by to toast the space before heading to dinner at the nearby Lobster Club, another Marino-designed project.
Artist Jean-Michel Othoniel, who has been collaborating with Marino for 14 years and created a 60-foot-tall sculpture for the 57th Street boutique, had flown in from Paris for the event.
“Isn’t it great that the whole thing is connected just there?” remarked Juan Carlos Menendez, glancing up at the piece’s apex, flush with the ceiling.
“This one is the most impressive in terms of scale, in terms of technique,” Othoniel said from the fourth floor, peering over the railing to take in his dramatic sculpture, which is composed of stacked metal balls twisting from floor to ceiling to invoke cascading strands of a beaded necklace. The boutique’s staircase winds around the reflective sculpture, set slightly off-center; it’s like a surrogate spine for the space.
“It’s almost five tons of glass suspended in one point and it seems floating,” Othoniel added. “The base is a polished steel, so you have the reflection of the necklace inside. It’s

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Queen Victoria’s Role as the Original Royal Influencer to Be Spotlighted in PBS Program

As far as royal influencers go, Queen Victoria reigns supreme.
Testimony to that is PBS’ “Victoria & Albert: The Wedding,” a two-part series scheduled for Jan. 13 and 20. Legions of brides wear white wedding dresses, due to Queen Victoria according to royal historian Lucy Worsley, who reimagined the 1840 nuptials for the program. In addition to being chief curator at Historic Royal Palaces, which looks after Kensington Palace, the Tower of London and Hampton Court Palace in London, she is working on a new exhibition devoted to Queen Victoria that will bow at Kensington Palace May 24, which marks the 200th anniversary of Queen Victoria’s birthday. Worsley recently published the biography “Queen Victoria: Twenty-Four Days That Changed Her Life.”
While the historian was delighted to learn Queen Victoria proposed to Prince Albert, she said their union did not start out as the “great romance” that it did in fact become. Worsley said, “It started with her being quite reluctant. It was an arranged marriage that their family had set up, when they were born actually. She had been holding out on it, holding out and holding out. After she became queen at 18, she enjoyed herself but she made some foolish

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Shoshanna Gruss Celebrates 20 Years in Fashion, Inks New Deal With Gwynnie Bee, Prepares for Saks Exclusive

In the 20 years since Shoshanna Lonstein Gruss started her dress company, she married, had three children, added swimwear, eveningwear, a girls’ collection and a boys’ one, launched e-commerce, divorced and now will launch an exclusive label with Gwynnie Bee Sunday.
From the start, the designer has offered lingerie-inspired sizing for shoppers, so this latest pairing is a logical move. C’est Nous by Shoshanna is the designer’s first fully inclusive line, ranging from XS-5X. A UCLA grad with a double major in history and art history, her original plan was to take a job in finance. Like legions of other college grads, she spent her last free summer traveling in Europe with a friend. Gruss started sketching on the trip and never stopped. “Honestly, in the beginning what I imagined was driving around the country with my samples and showing them to the stores that I thought I should be in. Road tripping — that is really what I wanted to do,” she said with a laugh. “Then I was like, ‘Damn it. I have to work every day. I don’t like this, but I got used to it.”
Her parents loaned her $30,000 to produce the first collection, on the condition

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Jenna Coleman, From ‘Victoria’ to The Old Vic

Around this time last year, British actress Jenna Coleman was aboard a plane to Australia. “With the most amount of fear,” she adds.
Coleman was en route to film the mystery BBC miniseries “The Cry,” which debuted in the fall of 2018. “What’s been most amazing is the speculation,” she says of reaction to the show and the accompanying whodunit around a mother and her missing child. “The worst thing in the world would be a really obvious psychological thriller that doesn’t keep people guessing; that doesn’t have secrets.”
Coleman’s had little time to catch her breath since that plane ride — a day after wrapping “The Cry,” she was back in character as Queen Victoria for the third season of “Victoria,” which premieres Jan. 13. There’s been a lot of filming, a lot of press, and as Coleman puts it, “It’s been a real freight train of a year.”
“To be honest, each project that you start feels quite scary, always feels like a bit of a mountain in a way in terms of: how on earth do I get to know who the real Queen Victoria was? And how on earth do I play a grieving mother going through the most

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2019 Costume Designers Guild Award Nominations Announced

Ruth E. Carter, the costume designer who imagined a new African diaspora, drawing on tribal-tech inspirations to make 700 costumes for the film “Black Panther,” will receive a Career Achievement Award at the 21st annual Costume Designers Guild Awards Feb. 19 in Los Angeles.
Nominations for the annual event, which celebrates how designers create costumes to build character in film, television and short-form videos, will also honor “The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story” creator Ryan Murphy as a Distinguished Collaborator for years of bringing stylish projects to screen, including “Glee,” “Feud: Bette and Joan” and the new dance musical series highlighting LGBTQ ball culture in New York, “Pose.”
Erin Benach, who used a Stagecoach Festival vibe and some of the star’s own Gucci togs to transform Lady Gaga from wannabe to supernova in “A Star Is Born,” is nominated for Excellence in Contemporary Film alongside Mary E. Vogt (“Crazy Rich Asians”), Michele Clapton (“Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again”), Sarah Edwards (“Ocean’s 8”) and Jenny Eagan (“Widows”), while Julian Day, who re-created Freddie Mercury’s gender-bending style for “Bohemian Rhapsody” by tapping a who’s who of British design from Biba to Zandra Rhodes, competes with Marci Rodgers (“BlacKkKlansman”), Sandy Powell (nominated

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Kelly Rowland Talks Activewear, Seventies Fashion, Kids Clothes

LOS ANGELES — Kelly Rowland sat leisurely on a couch, holding a Starbucks cup, just ahead of a workout class at Casita Hollywood on Wednesday.
The class was one part actual workout and one part celebration in a nod to the Grammy Award-winning artist and actress’ capsule collection with activewear brand Fabletics, part of El Segundo, Calif.-based TechStyle Fashion Group.
The dance-inspired capsule, a mix of deep burgundy, dusty rose and black pieces, are aimed at being versatile enough for beyond the gym — a move most activewear brands now pitch to consumers.
“I love the fact that it’s a lifestyle brand and the pieces the creative team and I thought of were to help you go from day to night,” Rowland said. “I have so many days where I’ll start with my workouts and I get a call ‘Oh, you have a meeting at this time’ and I know I have something else to do and can’t get back home. I know I just have to have my day run its course and they’re pieces that I can just pop on. I can put my bomber over this or I’ll do this. There’s leggings we have where the cell phone pops in.

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‘Broad City’ Says Goodbye

Ilana Glazer wants to know the name of every person in the room. She’ll come in, ask each name, and recite it to herself, committing it to memory. She does this throughout the day; each person she meets, she wants to know who they are, beginning as simply as with a name.
“It’s important,” she says.
Abbi Jacobson, of course, is right beside her. Glazer is immediate with her openness, giving space for Jacobson to warm up and settle into the room. Once they get going, though, they are as charming a pair as the loyal devotees of their Comedy Central hit “Broad City” would hope.
The duo have a friendship, which was the basis for their web series and then the show, that countless Millennial women both envy and see themselves in. As the success has grown, the two remain loyal to their fictional Abbi and Ilana’s story lines, but have decided to make the upcoming fifth season, premiering Jan. 24, the last.
“One thing I’ve been noting lately is the gap between Ilana Wexler, my character, and Ilana Glazer, my real self,” Glazer, 31, says. “And how I’m so grateful to have had the opportunity to develop Ilana Glazer through Ilana Wexler,

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EXCLUSIVE: Milla Jovovich, Mert and Marcus to Be Honored at This Year’s AmfAR

The Foundation for AIDS research has chosen to recognize actor Milla Jovovich, photographers Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott and auctioneer Simon de Pury at the 2019 amfAR Gala in New York on Feb. 6.
Every year, at the start of fashion week, amfAR throws a party at Cipriani 42nd Street to pay homage to prominent figures working toward HIV prevention and AIDS education and to raise funds for its organization. Jovovich, Alas and Piggott and de Pury have each supported the nonprofit — Jovovich in particular is entrenched in multiple AIDS-related charities, including AIDS Life and the Elton John AIDS foundation.
Alas and Piggott are just coming off another win. In December, they received the Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator at the Fashion Awards in London. The photography duo has worked with brands including Versace and Calvin Klein, and celebrities such as Lady Gaga, Madonna and Rihanna.
De Pury, who’s a known art dealer and the cofounder and president of his namesake auction house, has backed amfAR for years — he attends the association’s party in Cannes from time to time, too.
For the 21st iteration of this event, the amfAR evening will feature a dinner, live auction, honoree tributes and a performance by The

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Lady Gaga, Bradley Cooper Win for ‘A Star Is Born’ at National Board of Review Gala

On Tuesday night, while President Trump made his televised address from the Oval Office, actors, directors and other artists from the film industry gathered at Cipriani 42nd Street in New York to celebrate their work at the National Board of Review’s arts gala.
The NBR awarded Lady Gaga, Bradley Cooper and Sam Elliott the best actress, best director and best supporting actor accolades, respectively — while “Green Book” walked away with the best picture award and the female cast of “Crazy Rich Asians,” Awkwafina née Nora Lum, Gemma Chan, Michelle Yeoh and Constance Wu, won best ensemble.
One winner relished the 230-mile distance between himself and the president: Barry Jenkins, who received the best adapted screenplay award for “If Beale Street Could Talk.” (He ended his acceptance speech by saying, “No walls, no borders, f–k him.”) Prior to the show, Jenkins walked the red carpet and discussed the next film he’d like to make — a sci-fi movie.
“You look at a film like ‘Blade Runner’ or a film like ‘Terminator’ and you see a projection of many of the problems we’ve inherited,” he said. “Right now, everybody’s trying to figure out, ‘How do I say something about the world that can

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After Conquering Rome, Paris and Shanghai, Chinese Artist Yi Zhou Sets Sights on L.A.

Chinese multimedia artist and model Yi Zhou has already conquered Rome, Paris and Shanghai — and L.A. is next on her list.
Zhou, who was born in Shanghai and grew up in Rome (her father is a successful Chinese businessman), made a name for herself in Paris more than a decade ago making surrealist shorts with titles like “The Dream,” “Hollowness,” and “My Heart Laid Bare,” the latter of which starred and was cowritten by Charlotte Gainsbourg. She has also created public artworks in Florence’s Palazzo Vecchio and Paris’ Place Vendôme and has been commissioned by Persol, Hogan and Diane von Furstenberg to create short films and video installations.
Upon moving back to Shanghai in 2010, she garnered attention as a fashion influencer, designing capsules for brands such as Iceberg, and was named art director of Tudou (the Chinese version of YouTube) and ambassador for Sina.com (which owns Weibo, the Chinese version of Twitter). “I was seen as an ‘exotic’ figure having grown up in Europe, so I had a lot of promotion in the media,” she noted. Along the way, her work was selected multiple times for the Sundance and Cannes film festivals as well as at the Venice and Shanghai

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Chargers QB Philip Rivers’ Wife, Tiffany, Prepares for Their Ninth Child, Playoff Game With Patriots, New Swimwear Label

NFL fans may know Philip Rivers as a mercurial player, but his wife, Tiffany, described him as a more easygoing, spirited kind of guy.
His Los Angeles Chargers teammates and on-the-field opponents may think otherwise. His wife allowed that Rivers’ competitive streak was even evident in elementary school, when the girls would race the boys up a magnolia tree in their Alabama town. “He was just very athletic. When he was on the field, he was on the field and it was game on. Off-the-field, he’s just super lighthearted and fun. He really hasn’t changed much at all, which is kind of neat.”
While the 37-year-old quarterback readies to face the New England Patriots Sunday in a divisional-round matchup, his wife has her own deadlines: The couple’s ninth child is due March 1 and the launch of Hermoza swimwear is planned for that same month.
While the football pro has been a sounding board for his wife and her business partner Marisa De Lecce, “Right now he is totally in the thick of football. But we’ve talked a lot about the whole business and everything that goes along with that. He’s excited about it,” she said, adding that a while back he offered his

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Whitney Art Party Announces 2019 Cochairs

The 2019 Whitney Art Party is getting all of the details in place. The cochairs for this year’s fund-raiser have been announced, and the list includes first-time party sponsor Forty Five Ten. The boutique’s president Kristen Cole will be joined by fellow cochairs Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler, Michael Carl and Micaela Erlanger. The annual event, which takes place this year on Jan. 29, will be preceded by a dinner hosted by the Whitney’s Artists Council and a site-specific performance by downtown musical group Onyx Collective.
Guests — which in the past have included previous cohosts Ashley Graham, Karlie Kloss and Common — will have an opportunity to view the art museum’s current exhibitions during the party, such as the soon-closing “Andy Warhol — From A to B and Back Again” and “Kevin Beasley: A View of a Landscape.” Proceeds from the Art Party support the museum’s postgraduate Independent Study Program, which offers advanced training in studio art, curatorial and critical studies.
In support of the program, Forty Five Ten and the Whitney are also teaming for a forthcoming collaboration with New York-based artist Caitlin Keogh.

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Hollywood A-Listers Swarm HBO Golden Globe After Party

LOS ANGELES — “I’m feeling amazing,” declared Patricia Clarkson as she triumphantly entered HBO’s Golden Globe Awards after-party celebration, toting her newly acquired Supporting Actress in a Series, Miniseries or Motion Picture for TV statuette for her flinty turn in the pay cable network’s “Sharp Objects.”
Well, not entirely amazing, she confessed. “I’m exhausted and this trophy weighs more than I do,” she laughed. “I’m not kidding you, because I haven’t eaten in like 10 days.” For a moment, she was eager to hand off her Globe award to a pal for some solo fashion shots, but then quickly mock-impatiently insisted, “Give me my damn award!” Clarkson said that when it came to what she was going to do next after claiming the honor, her goals were clear: “I’m going to eat now. And drink.”
HBO’s Globes night bash, once again set at the Beverly Hilton hotel’s Circa 55 poolside restaurant and lounge, just a quick flight of stairs down from the International Ballroom where the awards were handed out, is always one of the most popular party stops on the after-ceremony circuit — for both the network’s stars and other Hollywood A-listers. And despite a steady smattering of rainy sprinkles throughout

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Art Basel Miami Beach 2018: Luka Sabbat Is Here to Troll Art Basel

“Where’d you grow up?” Noah Dillon asked from the floor of the ArtPark gallery space in Miami’s Design District.
“Like a middle-class family? Parents? You know how they frame some achievement on the wall, like you graduated from high school or college? We had that idea for money.”
Shortly past 6:30 p.m., a line of creative youth had formed outside the gallery, eager to see the much-promoted exhibition “Free Money” from Dillon and Luka Sabbat, who together call themselves “Hot Mess” and who were making their Art Basel Miami Beach debut. Only they didn’t exactly seemed thrilled about it.
“Free Money” is an installation of 300 framed $100 dollar bills, an ATM that spewed random amounts of real money, and a merch drop with items like a sweatshirt that read “not Switzerland.”
“It’s kind of a troll on Art Basel,” Sabbat said. “We’re professional pessimists so we kind of don’t think Art Basel is, like, the greatest. So it’s a good troll; we basically proxied and finessed one bill from every country in America. It also plays on American consumerism and stuff.”

Luka Sabbat and Noah Dillon
Lexie Moreland/WWD

“Because the bills are priced,” Dillon said. “The Chateau Marmont one is like $4, but the one that’s

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Art Basel Miami Beach 2018: Prada Mode Goes Out With a Splash

Prada Mode has officially wrapped its inaugural edition. The cultural platform closed out its three-day Miami residency with a performance by Theaster Gates, who had crafted a site-specific intervention for the club. The leafy outdoor oasis — and selection of elegant Mode cocktails — provided a respite from the crowds, as the week of exhibition-hopping and partying winds down.
Luka Sabbat and his Hot Mess creative partner Noah Dillon arrived with Chloë Sevigny, both in trucker hats. (Sabbat’s read ‘hookers & cocaine’ while Dillon went for the message of ‘when I die bury me upside down so the whole world can kiss my ass.’)
“I’m waiting for the kids,” Sevigny said to Derek Blasberg as Sabbat and Dillon, who had come from the opening cocktail of their Hot Mess exhibition at The ArtPark, greeted friends.
The evening drew many fellow artists who’ve been making the Basel rounds, including Mikalene Thomas, Fab 5 Freddy and Raúl de Nieves, as well as many a celeb: Kanye West, Emma Roberts, Venus Williams and Sevigny breezed through the party over the course of the night, following previous nights’ appearances by Naomi Campbell and Leonardo DiCaprio.
More from Art Basel Miami Beach 2018:
Art Basel Miami Beach 2018: Tessa Thompson

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LVMH Trains Fund-raising Power on Battling Sickle Cell Disease

SCALING UP: A crowd of 400 gathered at the Palais Brongniart for the sixth edition of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s annual Dîner des Maisons Engagées.
“We believe in actions that are lasting, in actions that demonstrate sense and solidarity,” declared Chantal Gaemperle, human resources and synergies director for the group, referring to the broad range of organizations and institutions supported by LVMH businesses. Gaemperle and group managing director Toni Belloni were the evening’s hosts.

Jain, Sandrine Quétier and Gwendoline Hamon.
Courtesy/Cyril Moreau

The charity gala drew executives from around 30 of the luxury group’s vast stable of high-end labels, along with actors, television personalities and singing stars including Jain. It raised funds for the pediatric hospital Robert-Debré and its research into sickle cell anemia, one of the most common genetic conditions in France, and also prevalent in Africa. It also brought support to Kelina, Flora Coquerel’s nonprofit organization geared toward young mothers and their children in Benin.

Flora Coquerel
Courtesty/ CYRIL MOREAU / BESTIMAGE

Taking in the cavernous space and its gilded ceiling, Dikom Bakang-Tonje, cofounder of Dear Muesli, an organic cereal company, said he jumped at the invitation to attend a gala dinner for the first time.
“I’m loving it, to see all the people dressing nicely

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Art Basel Miami Beach 2018: Tessa Thompson Hosts Bombay Sapphire Artisan Series Finale

The Versace Mansion — known now as Villa Casa Casuarina — opened its doors Thursday night for the annual Bombay Sapphire Artisan Series finale party, this year hosted by Tessa Thompson.
“This is my first Basel and it is so fantastic to be here,” Thompson said, before presenting the competition grand prize to Erik Nieminen.
The actress — “dressed as a loofah — a Marc Jacobs loofah by the way, so, don’t play” — was joined by Teyana Taylor, Laura Harrier, Devon Windsor, Sasha Lane, Shaun Ross, Kevin Garnett, Garrett Neff, Chloe Wise, Andrew Warren, Gaïa Matisse and more for the party, which celebrated the arts program which highlights emerging artists and gives them a platform to display their work, in partnership with Artsy.
“I love being here because it’s an opportunity to discover talent, which means so much to me,” Thompson said.

More from Art Basel Miami Beach 2018:
Art Basel Miami Beach 2018: Serena Williams, Painter
Art Basel Miami Beach 2018: Alan Faena Opens the Doors to His Home
Art Basel Miami Beach 2018: Karaoke Night at Casa Tua
Art Basel Miami Beach 2018: The Haas Brothers Have a (Mathematical) Formula

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