Beauty? What beauty? I’m in a mole hole trying to work out what January means. I’ve heard of these January blues, but I usually escape somewhere distant before they set in. A place where the sun kisses my face better. As I look at the tumultuous English Channel out of my window, I feel my eyes become as watery as what’s in view.
Squalane oil has been my go-to for decades and I’m delighted it’s finally enjoying a big moment
One of the more gratifying trends in modern beauty has been a newfound appreciation for old-fashioned but highly effective ingredients that should never have fallen from favour. While companies were aggressively marketing newfangled, often unproven advances in technology, beauty professionals continued to use unbeatable classics such as hyaluronic acid, retinol, vitamin C and oil. Squalane oil has been among my go-tos for decades, and I’m delighted it’s finally enjoying a big moment and wider availability.
Squalane (created by adding hydrogen to squalene, a substance traditionally sourced from sharks’ livers – and naturally occurring in humans, too – but now almost always derived from olives or sugarcane) is the perfect oil if you think you hate oil. Light and ungreasy, it adds heaps of moisture, suppleness and visible glow without causing spots or greasiness, even on problem and congested skin, making it suitable for all skin types. Like most saturated oils, it has a long shelf life, so won’t start to smell or spoil. Its unadulterated nature makes it wonderful on sensitive skins and easy to mix with other products without clashing (I frequently add a drop of squalane to my night cream for extra moisture, or to my foundation for added glow).
She juggles a global fashion brand, four children and one of the world’s most scrutinised marriages: how does the former Posh Spice keep the show on the road?
Along an Edward Hopper-esque cobblestone street two blocks from the Hudson river, outside a Brooklyn warehouse that is now a photographic studio the size of a baseball field, black SUVs are parked bumper to bumper. Inside, Mario Sorrenti, fashion royalty since he photographed a nude Kate Mossface down on a sofa for Calvin Klein’s Obsession in 1993, is perched on a wooden crate shooting the first Victoria Beckham X Reebok collection. Cara Taylor, the industry’s latest 17-year-old modelling sensation, a high school volleyball champ from Alabama whose fine curtain of wheat-gold hair falls across her cheekbones in the manner of a young Leonardo DiCaprio, wraps her arms around two other models, a boy and a girl, as Nonstop by Drake fades into All The Stars by Kendrick Lamar. Every couple of minutes, stylist Alastair McKimm, a Northern Ireland-born, New York-based godfather of luxe streetwear, darts on to set, minutely adjusting the hood of a sweatshirt with the beady eye of a society hostess plumping her drawing room cushions.
The designer of the Lucozade-orange trainers, sleek cropped tanks and oversized bomber jackets is perched on a director’s chair with a bird’s-eye view of it all. Victoria Beckham is wearing, as she always does, clothes from her catwalk label. Today, it is a military green sharp-collared shirt in stiff wool twill with shiny horn buttons tucked into matching high-waisted pleated trousers, accessorised with spike-heeled Balenciaga sock boots, a shiny red manicure and a bottle of San Pellegrino, which she sips through a straw so as not to smudge her lipstick. She hops down from the chair to pore over the monitors with Sorrenti or huddle with McKimm by the clothing rail. Beckham never raises her voice, but then she doesn’t need to, because everyone else stops talking as soon as she starts; she gives suggestions, rather than orders, but they are not queried.
Jean Ann Ford, the co-founder of Benefit Cosmetics, has died.
She was 71, and passed from cancer, a spokeswoman for Benefit Cosmetics told WWD.
Ford is survived by her twin and Benefit co-founder Jane Ford, daughters Maggie Ford Danielson and Ann Ford Danielson, and four grandchildren.
Jean and Jane co-founded Benefit Cosmetics, the whimsical brand behind products like They’re Real! Lengthening Mascara and Watt’s Up highlighter, in 1976. The pair sold a controlling stake in the brand to LVMH in 1999, and later sold the rest of their shares and exited the brand in 2012.
Proactiv is standing behind Kendall Jenner.
Speaking out for the first time since the backlash from Jenner’s endorsement of the line erupted, the acne-treatment brand is defending its new face, saying that she does indeed use Proactiv, and that they are trying to drive a conversation around skin positivity.
“Acne has a terrible impact on your self-esteem; it has a direct link to increases in depression and is a topic that shouldn’t be shamed,” said Marc Kravets, general manager of Proactiv. “It should be an open conversation about getting your skin healthy. Some of that backlash we saw is exactly what we need to address this, and Kendall’s the perfect person to drive that relationship.”
The Kendall-Proactiv deal — teased first by Kris Jenner on Instagram, and later unveiled during the Golden Globes earlier in January — has been a controversial one. After the commercial aired, people seemed to deep-dive into Jenner’s skin-care routine online, surfacing widely reported information that Christie Kidd, a Beverly Hills-based physician assistant, was the one taking care of Jenner’s complexion.
The social-media-wielding public also took umbrage at Kris Jenner’s teaser post, in which she said she was proud of Kendall for sharing her “most raw story in order
Kim Jones focuses on ‘architectural tailoring’ – even at a ready-to-wear show
In Paris, the suit is back. Or is at least attempting a comeback.
It was always going to be high on the agenda at Dior, which showed its autumn/winter show on Friday night. Artistic director Kim Jones might be the man who spliced tailoring with streetwear at Louis Vuitton, most notably in his 2017 collaboration with Supreme, but for his second collection at the fashion house he focused on “architectural tailoring”, drawing heavily on the label’s couture heritage – despite this being a ready-to-wear show.
Ukonwa Ojo, the global chief marketing officer of Covergirl and Sally Hansen, is the latest high-level departure from Coty’s consumer division. Her exit comes a week after it was announced that Laurent Kleitman, president of the Consumer Beauty division, was being replaced by chief executive offcer Pierre Laubies.
“We have tremendous respect for Ukonwa and gratitude for her contributions to Coty. During her two years here, she helped build our global marketing team and capabilities and spearheaded brave brand initiatives,” said a Coty spokesperson in a statement confirming departure to pursue other opportunities.
Ojo relocated from her post in London wth Unilever in 2016 to join Coty as senior vice president of Cover Girl. She was promoted to chief marketing officer, global Cover Girl, Sally Hansen and Consumer Beauty U.S. last summer. Ojo was instrumental in the relaunch of Cover Girl, as well as the debut of the brand’s own store in Manhattan’s Times Square that she said was inspired by events like Beautycon. Despite the spark Ojo injected into the beauty nameplates, the Consumer Beauty division continues to struggle.
Consumer Beauty sales declined last year — down 20.6 percent in the fourth quarter, to $828.8 million. Part of that was because of the
PARIS — Katalin Berenyi has been named general manager of the Clarins brand, effective Feb. 1, WWD has learned.
She succeeds Natalie Bader, who left Groupe Clarins in the summer of 2018 after serving four years as Clarins’ brand president.
Berenyi will be based in Paris and report to Jonathan Zrihen, president and chief executive officer of Groupe Clarins, and also sit on the company’s executive committee.
“Her experience in building and developing global brands, combined with her deep knowledge of Asia, a true entrepreneurial spirit and her passion for customer service, will be a tremendous asset to further develop the Clarins brand in the coming years,” said Zrihen in a statement.
Berenyi most recently, starting in July 2017, was artistic director of L’Occitane International Group and Erborian, the skin-care brand she cofounded in March 2007 with a researcher in Korean cosmetics. That was subsequently sold to L’Occitane.
Prior to that, she worked at L’Oréal. Beginning in 2005, the executive was the group’s Luxe division’s worldwide vice president of retail travel marketing for the Helena Rubinstein, Biotherm, Giorgio Armani, Ralph Lauren, Cacharel, Viktor & Rolf, and Diesel brands. In 2003, she arrived at L’Oréal and became vice president marketing, head of international operational marketing for
Too thick to be one, too thin to be the other, but just right all the same
What the hell, I hear you ask, is a “shacket”? Sadly it’s not a word to describe what happens when you play Love Shack by The B-52s far too loudly. Instead it refers to a piece of clothing that’s too thick to be a shirt but too thin to be a jacket. It’s a piece of clothing that is Just Right. As an aside, as a portmanteau word it is no “hangry”, but “shacket” is admittedly better than calling it a “jirt” which, we can all agree, sounds like a disagreeable stomach ailment. Here it joins some other great fashion portmanteaus-slash-crimes: “jeggings” (jeans and leggings – why?), “skorts” (skirt and shorts, courtesy of Dr Moreau’s school of clothing) and “treggings” (half trousers, half leggings, halfwit). In light of these, “shacket” is almost a blessing.
I have a shacket at home. On the weekends, I like to rid myself of my edgier, fun work clothes and slum it in my “dad” clothes. These are as sexy as they sound: big, discoloured jeans with very wide roll-ups; trainers bought in 2004 that are a shade of grey that exists only in suburbia; -24 prescription glasses – and an old shacket that is frankly horrible in every possible way. It’s shapeless and boxy in black and grey checks that bleed into one unclassifiable colour, a shade one might describe as “disused wormery”. It also features button poppers, worryingly suggestive of easy access. But it’s for all these reasons that it’s the perfect piece of dad clothing. Specifically, it can withstand the snot of 1,000 runny noses, random bits of child-friendly toothpaste and the anaemic broccoli-coloured goo of an Ella’s Kitchen food pouch. It’s what I wear when I am thinking practically, when practically involves (in order) being ridden like a human horse, used like a human wet wipe and kicked in the face as I trip over a Duplo castle.
Pull on a cheerful jumper, something bright or cosy, an old favourite or a new splurge, and rejoice that we’re already halfway through January. This weekend will yield the best sale markdowns, so check out your favourite brands and bag a late bargain
Target continues to make a bolder statement in the natural beauty space. Later this month, Target will add Grace + Tonic to its growing list of premium “better for you” products in 332 doors.
The naturals market, according to Kline Group, continues to grow at above-average rates, increasing 8.3 percent in the U.S. in the past year. But shoppers are bombarded with product natural claims that are not only confusing, but often not verified since there are no rules governing the use of the term in the U.S.
Grace + Tonic delivers a competitive edge, according to company founder Suzanne LeRoux, in the form of the Ecocert and Cosmos-certified seals. The standard, highly respected in Europe, validates the integrity sustainability of natural and organic cosmetics. Fewer than 10,000 products on the market globally have passed the rigorous assessment of Cosmos certification. Grace + Tonic will be Target’s first beauty entry to bear the seal, according to company founder LeRoux, who has more than 10-plus years in the green beauty space.
With the backing to support it at a time when consumers are more informed about natural and organic, industry sources believe the line can hit first-year sales exceeding $5 million. The company does not comment
Unilever is upping its beauty incubation game.
The consumer goods giant is readying the U.S. launch on Jan. 21 of its latest brand, Skinsei — a direct-to-consumer, wellness-inspired skin-care line with a personalization bent — that was developed in-house by a team of five working across Unilever’s London and Englewood Cliffs, N.J., headquarters.
Skinsei is the latest example in a series of Unilever original productions to launch in the U.S. market. A mass-market hair-care brand, The Good Stuff, made its debut earlier in January. The Right to Shower, a body-care line with a socially conscious spin, is set to roll out Feb. 1, and the incubated brands Unilever introduced late last year — Love Beauty and Planet and ApotheCare Essentials — launched significant category extensions in early 2019. ApotheCare, which launched as a hair and body-care brand, is pivoting to focus on facial skin care, and Love Beauty and Planet has branched outside the beauty space with a home care extension, Love Home and Planet, due out in March.
With market valuations for beauty brands at a premium, building one can also be a way to fill a white space in a group’s portfolio without shelling out hundreds of millions of dollars for
Designer tells own story at men’s fashion week where he also showed his Off-White label
There are not many designers who can present two collections in two days at one fashion week.
Yet Virgil Abloh kicked off Paris men’s fashion week with shows for Off-White and Louis Vuitton, while also cramming in an art exhibition, a jewellery launch and the opening of a flower shop in a Parisian hotel.
Last week’s CES showcased the importance of technology and beauty, especially regarding the role AI will play in future products. AI moved to the front burner at the show in the forms of everything from smart makeup mirrors to apps allowing users to learn what beauty products someone is wearing in a photo.
Furthermore, this week’s National Retail Federation Big Show cemented the fact that AI is lending a personalization factor to retailing.
The ideas are flowing, but much is still to be learned about AI and how to use it. The industry is on a mission to understand what AI modes are impactful versus just a cool factor. Here author, cofounder and chief executive officer of Tanjo Inc. Richard Boyd gives his view on how AI is disrupting the beauty industry. Tanjo is an artificial intelligence and machine-learning company.
WWD: How is AI disrupting the beauty industry? How can brands and retailers benefit?
Richard Boyd: Billions of dollars a year are spent on beauty marketing include advertising, market research and influencer marketing. These tactics have created a degree of success, and are somewhat effective, but they are also costly and time-consuming. In a highly competitive marketplace, brands will do just about anything to find
They fall down. They pill. They become weirdly baggy round the knees and remain unyielding everywhere else. But an end to tights discomfort might finally be in sight
It is about this point in winter that you really begin to tire of wearing tights.
Yes, they are a practical necessity – but they dig in. They fall down. They pill. They tear on first wear. They develop holes at the toes. They become weirdly baggy round the knees – billowy, even – while remaining scratchy and unyielding everywhere else. They assume that height and weight observe a strictly linear relationship. They extend either laughably high or uncomfortably not high enough, and, pre-purchase, it is impossible to tell which. And don’t get me started on the gusset.
Maybelline’s latest collaboration isn’t an influencer or celebrity deal — it’s a product line with Puma.
L’Oréal-owned Maybelline has teamed with the sneaker brand on Puma x Maybelline, a streetwear-inspired collection of five limited-edition makeup products, to be released globally in 35 countries on Feb. 8. In the U.S., the collection will be sold exclusively at Ulta Beauty, launching online in February and rolling out to the retailers’ stores on March 17.
Puma x Maybelline consists of five items, including three new products — Smudge-Proof Mascara, Matte + Metallic Duo Eye Stick and Color + Gloss Duo Face Stick. There are also new shades of two existing Maybelline products — SuperStay Matte Ink Liquid Lipstick and Master Chrome Metallic Highlighter.
The high-performance products, inspired by streetwear trends, are long-wearing and made with super-saturated pigment. Product names were given a streetwear-inspired bent — for instance, Warrior Flow, Hustle and Burn, and Knockout.
“Both of us are going after the younger consumer — what we call the ‘hustle generation.’ They’re running around doing different things, working by day and DJing by night,” said Amy Whang, senior vice president of marketing for Maybelline. “We wanted to provide product that would keep up with them.”
Maybelline teased the collaboration
The designer hopes her mix of formal and casual will give menswear ‘its own platform’
The British designer Clare Waight Keller presented her first standalone menswear collection for the French fashion house Givenchy in Paris at an intimate salon show, with just 17 models and an audience of less.
L’Oréal Paris selected the recently opened Suite Reyad as one of the settings to shoot scenes of Julianne Moore for a new campaign. That helped validate the vision Suite Reyad’s owner, Reyad Fritas, has for ushering in a new type of salon.
Fritas, a former colorist and artistic director at Frédéric Fekkai, opened his own salon late last year in Manhattan’s tony Pierre hotel. In addition to the nod from L’Oréal, Suite Reyad has been frequented by a star-studded list of clients including Imaan Hammam, Nina Garcia, Kenza Fourati and Alia Bhatt.
“The idea was to create an environment where I could receive people comfortably, where they wouldn’t necessarily feel that they were in a salon but instead, perhaps, in my home,” said the Parisian born Fritas who has amassed more than 20 years in the business.
The intimate setting is helping Suite Reyad build a base of patrons including residents from the hotel, tourists and bridal parties using the Pierre as a wedding venue. Moreover, the salon is luring younger consumers to the Upper East Side locale who like the apartment approach to haircuts and styling. Gone are sterile and intimidating welcome desks and styling stations. Instead, the waiting area at Suite Reyad