This season, step out in strong primary colours – the brighter the better
This season, step out in strong primary colours – the brighter the better
Change was in the air at the National Association of Chain Drug Stores’ annual meeting, held April 27 to April 30 at The Breakers in Palm Beach, Fla.
Historically, the pharmacy accounts for about 70 percent of most drug chains’ revenue. But escalating fees for prescription drugs — NACDS reports that DIR [direct and indirect remuneration] fees have increased 47,000 percent from 2010 to 2017 — has cut into the profit margins of many retailers and put pressure on the front end of the store to be more productive, particularly on beauty, which constitutes the most profitable section of most mass retailers.
“Beauty is an important category,” said Stefano Curti, global president of Markwins. “Customers tell us it’s the most profitable part of the business.
“The biggest challenge is the fight for market share,” he continued, “and inventing something new that transcends product.”
“The trade continues to be highly engaged with beauty, as it drives traffic to the stores and online platforms,” agreed Serge Jureidini, chief marketing officer of Revlon Inc. “Three things resonated as a big focus this year — personalization, clean beauty and the rapid growth of e-commerce.”
Indeed, for the last year, mass retailers have been going head to head, unleashing several
By Leah Harper
Women are ditching frothy gowns to make their vows in jumpsuits or white separates
When Game of Thrones actress Sophie Turner married musician Joe Jonas in Las Vegas last week, she wore a pair of white, wide-leg trousers – and she’s not the first to ditch a traditional wedding dress for trousers or a jumpsuit.
Last week, British Vogue’s “ultimate modern bridal edit” featured three trouser options. And a report issued by fashion search engine Lyst earlier this spring said that online searches for white suits had increased by 43% over the previous three months.
MILAN — The 11th edition of Esxence — The Scent of Excellence marked a maturity test for the artistic perfumery show.
The four-day event was scheduled across a national holiday on April 25, which before the show left companies uncertain about what the turnout would be. Yet the hallways of “The Mall” venue were busier than during previous editions, consolidating Esxence’s role as a key stop for executives in the sector.
In particular, the show, which closed April 28, attracted 7,890 attendees from 77 countries, a 5 percent increase compared to last year. Visitors discovered and tried the fragrances of 221 international perfumery houses, 130 of which were showcased in the Spotlight section dedicated to emerging labels.
In addition, side projects aimed at further promoting the niche fragrance category both at the show and across the city — including a deeper focus on indie brands in the Experience Lab area and collaborations with the worlds of art, music and technology — were popular with both the industry and the public.
“Over these 10 years we gave to existing brands the opportunity to expand internationally, strengthen their commercial distribution, enhance their visibility and introduce new products through an exceptional showcase,” said Esxence cofounder Silvio Levi.
A survey claims bearded men carry more germs in their facial hair than dogs carry in their fur. Follow this guide to keep your bristles in top condition
Beards have a mixed reputation – men with beards are more attractive, said one study last year, yet 43% of women would not sleep with a man with a beard, according to another. Now, a report says men with beards carry more germs in their facial hair than dogs carry in their fur. These are the same dogs that eat discarded chicken bones off the pavement.
The sample size of the study in question was small – 18 men were tested against 30 canines of varying breeds – and other studies have found evidence to the contrary (the faces of bearded health workers tend to harbour fewer dangerous bacteria than clean-shaven faces, found one). Nonetheless, this feels like a good time to ask beard experts for advice on keeping your bristles cleaner than a cockapoo.
MAC’s Viva Glam is getting a makeover.
Viva Glam, the popular campaign that donates 100 percent of its proceeds to HIV/AIDS programs worldwide, has raised more than $500 million since its inception in 1994. To help celebrate its 25th anniversary, MAC is renaming its AIDS Fund after Viva Glam, widening the scope of the fund’s efforts and revealing its newest celebrity face: Winnie Harlow.
Harlow re-created Viva Glam’s first campaign, which featured drag artist RuPaul, for Halloween last year. At MAC’s request, she provided the imagery for the company to use for its 25th anniversary.
To help celebrate its 25th anniversary, MAC is renaming its AIDS Fund after Viva Glam.
“The very popular and modern-day iconic Winnie Harlow had [re]-created the iconic RuPaul imagery herself, dressed as RuPaul,” said John Demsey, Esteé Lauder Cos. Inc. executive group president. “We noticed that it was getting hundreds of thousands of likes and being viewed all over the world, so we reached out. She knew very much about MAC, very much about the Viva Glam campaign and was very happy to lend her image in support to get the campaign started.”
Through the years, Viva Glam, which was created by MAC cofounders Frank Toskan and Frank Angelo,
Olaplex has hired Financo to explore deal options, according to industry sources.
The business does about $100 million in sales, and is looking for an investor, sources said. The process is said to be primarily focused on private equity firms.
Olaplex was the first to bring bond-building products, which aim to repair damaged hair, to the market. Since Olaplex launched in 2014, many companies have launched copycat bond builders.
In 2018, Olaplex won a lawsuit against L’Oréal in the U.K., alleging that its L’Oréal Professionnel Smartbond product infringed on an Olaplex patent. Before the L’Oréal product was launched, the two had been in deal talks, court proceedings revealed. L’Oréal appealed the court’s decision, and that decision is expected at the end of 2019 or early 2020.
Olaplex products are credited with strengthening hair enough to bleach it to extremes — before, hair would simply break off. The business is sold primarily in the professional channel, but is said to be growing quickly on the consumer side, and sells some products through Sephora.
In August, The NPD Group beauty industry analyst Jennifer Famiano said Olaplex “though still in its infancy, is the third fastest growing brand in overall hair care when ranking on incremental dollar gain.” The
By Funmi Fetto
Warm up your look – but not too much. Plus, ‘miracle water’ for your skin, and what to look out for this week
Like fake tans, bronzers (as seen at Altuzarra SS19, right) will warm up lifeless skin. Misuse, however, is ubiquitous but preventable. Choose a bronzer no more than two shades darker than your own skin. Take a big fluffy brush – tap off any excess – apply around areas that catch the sun – temples, jaw, side of nose, high points of cheek – and buff. Drier skins: consider a liquid bronzer. Oily skins: go easy on the shimmer. And for every skin, remember the name is misleading; you should never actually look bronzed or, God forbid, radioactive à la Trump.
1. Fenty Beauty Sun Stalk’r Instant Warmth Bronzer in Coco Naughty £23, harveynichols.com
2. Marc Jacobs Beauty, The Bronzer Brush £52, net-a-porter.com
3. Dior Addict Stellar Shine Lipstick in Twinkle £25.50, johnlewis.com
4. Tom Ford Soleil Glow Bronzer £59, tomford.co.uk
5. D-Bronzi Sunshine Serum £30, drunkelephant.com
For a bold spring look, mix and match different patterns or style up pretty florals with chunky accessories
Satin bands, silk bows and beaded clips… Pin it back and wait for a summer breeze
Twitter’s CEO Jack Dorsey has revealed his morning routines. They show how the private jet set have a life uninterrupted by life
There are many ludicrous things that money can buy and that I will duly covet: a therapeutic robotic seal (Paro, from Japan, RRP £5,000), Gwyneth Paltrow’s famously luminous aura, and – the most aspirational of them all – the kind of super-rich personal daily routine that is savagely mocked by harried mere mortals.
You know the drill. Wake up at 5am and enter a fastidiously organised whirl of wellness: freshly squeezed juices, freshly squeezed abs, a leisurely read through the papers, a clearing of the inbox, a calm emptying of the brain, walk (or better, jog) to the office for 9am, smash out a couple of Pulitzer-troubling pieces, dazzle your friends over lunch, be home in time for an Ottolenghi-esque feast with your loved ones, insist on no screens after 6pm and read a self-improving book for an hour before 9pm lights out.
Artists, designers and retailers drive their message home with inventive rage of merchandise
When it comes to making radical political statements, Jeremy Deller has been there, done that – and now he’s sold the T-shirt. The Turner prize-winning artist’s Fuck Brexit collection, which includes T-shirts, beach towels and a mug, has now almost sold out as Remainers seek creative ways to vent their frustration.
Launched in collaboration with arts charity Studio Voltaire, Deller’s pieces have raised £25,000 for the organisation. “It’s been the most popular range we have ever made,” said the charity’s head of development Niamh Conneely. Of an original stock of 800 T-shirts, only 60 remain.
By Leah Harper
More fun than a skirt, and less formal than trousers, this season’s big trend will have all weather covered
First there was the return of the pant suit, spearheaded by Lady Gaga on stage and Hillary Clinton in Congress. Now the latest version of the trend is a far more relaxed affair, and it’s set to be the look of the summer.
Short suits – oversized blazers paired with coordinating loose-fit tailored shorts – are this summer’s power suit.
By Sali Hughes
Start kids on a lifetime of diligent skincare with these giftable, quality products
The mere suggestion of luxury skincare for teenagers may horrify, but I see the logic in using special occasions to treat kids to a solid routine, so covetable that it might finally encourage regular use. Young people like things that are theirs alone, and I’d sooner set up a lifetime of diligent skincare than waste another penny on an in-game purchase.
MyClarins is Clarins’ second stab at the teen market, and this time it’s vegan. There’s a full regime: two cleansers, three day creams (spanning all skin types), treatments and a sleeping mask (night cream by a cooler name). It is priced from £15 to £24 (comparable to the cost of an Asos frock). The quality is excellent. I gladly slather the moisturisers, packed with coconut and plant extracts, on my face. The hydrating mist occupies my handbag as I type. I’ve no use for the Pore-less Blur And Matte Stick, which was snaffled enthusiastically by a friend’s daughter who’d now sooner unfollow a Kardashian than part with it. It slicks on like Pritt Stick, removing shine, under or over makeup. My only snark is the face wash doesn’t remove makeup, and I’m no fan of cleanser that leaves skin so squeaky it sounds as though it’s pleading for lubrication. Nonetheless, MyClarins is well-designed, non-patronising and highly desirable – made even more so by the brand’s pledge to never sell it in China, where animal testing is mandatory.
Bari Seiden-Young has been named senior vice president, global corporate communications, citizenship and sustainability, at the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc.
While the group’s brands have long had sustainability and corporate citizenship initiatives — MAC, for example, with recycling packaging at its stores and the MAC AIDS Fund — Lauder is now looking to integrate those ideals more fully into its corporate structure.
In March, chief executive officer Fabrizio Freda unveiled the company’s goals for sustainability and corporate citizenship, which include everything from identifying and creating action plans around sensitive ingredients, like palm oil, to developing an online glossary of all key ingredients with descriptions by 2025. The efforts are being led by Nancy Mahon, senior vice president for global corporate citizenship and sustainability.
In her new role, Seiden-Young will be charged with increasing global awareness of the group’s activities in these areas. An 18-year veteran of the company, she will continue to oversee communications for the Estée Lauder Cos.’ Breast Cancer Campaign and the Lauder family. She will report jointly to Alexandra Trower, executive vice president, global communications, and Mahon.
With the new sustainability framework, Lauder is looking to affect broader industry change — including the kind that comes by working toward the same
The beauty brand of former Vogue editor in chief Diana Vreeland has been acquired by TPR Holdings, WWD has confirmed.
Diana Vreeland’s Empress fragrances.
Diana Vreeland was launched and built by Vreeland’s grandson, Alexander Vreeland. The line includes several fragrances — one of which is nominated for a Fragrance Foundation Award this year — as well as a body cream. Industry sources estimated the brand is doing about $10 million in retail sales. Terms of the deal were not disclosed.
According to Brian Robinson, chief executive officer of TPR, the firm intends to “aggressively expand” international distribution and focus on only the “best points of distribution” for Diana Vreeland going forward. The deal closed in December 2018, he said, and the brand has signed Luxasia to enter Hong Kong and China and Das Elite to expand in the Middle East.
The brand will continue to develop fragrances with International Flavors & Fragrances Inc., including a line specifically meant for Russia that is slated to launch in 2020. Several non-fragrance stockkeeping units are also in development, and could make their debuts later this year or in early 2020.
Diana Vreeland, Lee Radziwell, Liza Minnelli and Martha Graham in the Halston spring 1978 made-to-order show in New
The creative director of Loewe wants you to visit his new London store to learn, meet people and enjoy the art, some of which is shown here. The clothes are a bonus
Jonathan Anderson wants to recreate the feeling of home. Albeit in a grand, palatial way on the corner of Bond Street. For the new Loewe flagship London store, Casa Loewe, which opens this month, he is determined to build an experience that will cosset his customers, rather than intimidate them. “It’s not a fashion store,” he says, running a hand through his hair. “I mean, yes, that’s the purpose, but I want people to be able to go in. It’s this idea of ‘casa’ and changing the way in which we see stores. I feel like they are public places so they have to be able to educate as well – they cannot just be about taking.”
It’s a striking ambition, but Anderson has made a career of them: following a flunked attempt at drama school in the US, he graduated from the London College of Fashion and had a stint working at Prada. In 2008, he launched his menswear label and quickly became one of the hottest properties in the industry. An acclaimed womenswear collection followed in 2010, and a Topshop collaboration took him to the high street in 2012. The following year, at just 29, he was announced as creative director of luxury Spanish fashion brand Loewe. In 2015, his own label, JW Anderson, made history by becoming the first to win both men’s and womenswear designer of the year at the British fashion awards.
By Priya Elan
The hippy-affiliated pattern is back, and this time I’m a fan
Being a male celebrity in 2019 means getting deeply ironic with your style. You can make like Shia LaBeouf and wear hot pink leggings. Or wear a jumpsuit in correctional facility-orange like Pete Davidson. Alternatively you could follow in the footsteps of Jonah Hill and Justin Bieber, and go for tie-dye.
“What?” I hear you cry. “Isn’t tie-dye something you do with kids on a rainy Sunday, or a fabric worn only by those left behind at Glastonbury’s Green Fields, still selling their handcrafted wares a week after the festival’s ended?”
Recognition is a core pillar of CEW’s mission, and as the number of women in beauty has increased exponentially, Carlotta Jacobson, the organization’s president, realized there was a gap in the organization’s programming.
While the CEW Achiever Awards, honoring the women who have reached the very highest echelons of beauty, is an industry staple, there was no recognition of beauty’s emerging leaders. Enter the Top Talent Awards, now in its sixth year, created to honor women, most often mid-career, whose impact on their company has been significant and whose leadership potential is strong.
“Part of our responsibility is to show the wealth of talent that is out there,” said Jacobson, who said that the Top Talent honorees have on average 15 to 25 years of experience working in the industry. “It’s important to shine a light on women in middle management — they are the future. They are the next generation of leadership.”
“They are super aspirational to junior executives as well,” added Jill Scalamandre, CEW’s chairwoman and the president of BareMinerals, of the honorees. “They work directly with younger executives and are real role models. They need to be recognized because they are forming the next generation as well as leading themselves.”
Barry and Marla Malcolm Beck had an “eye for disrupting” the beauty business with their luxury beauty retail chain, Bluemercury.
The pair had a plan to problem solve the beauty buying journey, Barry Beck told attendees at the forum in New York. Beck, an entrepreneur since his early days, had recently sold a business and was looking to start another one.
“When I was 10 years old, I was shoveling snow and had contracts with every house in the neighborhood,” he said. Years later, “I had an urge for my next big opportunity, and with the advent of the Internet, I knew the world was poised for change.”
He and Marla developed a plan for a luxury beauty e-commerce site, and raised $1 million from investors. Then they found out that there were two other competing sites in the works, and that those start-ups had reached raised $10 million. Then the Nasdaq crashed, venture capital dried up, and Bluemercury was left with $150,000 in the bank.
“As our Internet company continued to burn money…we realized our only way to achieve a return for our investors was to combine our online business with a [physical] store,” Beck said. So, the couple bought a store called