Beauty Headlines

Paris fashion week: Bruno Sialelli channels the seaside in Lanvin debut

By Scarlett Conlon in Paris

The 31-year-old designer’s first collection looked to the travels of house founder Jeanne Lanvin for inspiration

Bruno Sialelli may be hard at work as the new boy at Lanvin but he has holidays on the mind. For his first menswear show since his appointment as creative director of the house in January, the French designer mentally took the audience out of sweltering Paris and brought them to the cool breeze of the seaside. In real life, he invited them to a swimming pool in the 19th arrondissement and provided peach ice teas to set the scene.

“I love my job,” he said backstage after the show, “but the holidays is always the best part of our lives and I wanted to express something very bright and playful and [capture] this idea of travelling.”

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Via:: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/jun/23/paris-fashion-week-bruno-sialelli-channels-the-seaside-in-lanvin-debut

      

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30 best beauty products for summer | Funmi Fetto

By Funmi Fetto

Get summer-ready with this selection of lights scents, glossy makeup and nourishing suncare

We’ve been indoctrinated into the concept of a “summer fragrance” – floral, pretty, sweet, citrus. In reality, the idea is nonsensical. A summer fragrance is whatever you choose to wear, so don’t feel obliged to play by the rules. Diptyque’s Eau de Minthé is slightly off the beaten track: yes there’s a floral (rose) accord, but the predominant notes are mint and nutmeg. Jo Malone x Huntsman Birch and Black Pepper is touted as a men’s fragrance, but I’d happily wear its smoky sexiness all year long. If you gravitate towards a sophisticated floral, there is plenty on offer. Cloon Keen’s Lá Bealtaine – a blend of jasmine, tuberose, mandarin, bergamot and neroli – is unapologetically ultra-feminine. Burberry’s Her Blossom and Gucci Bloom also fit well into the archetypal floral family. Prada’s Water Splash does, too, but it infuses the green notes of the frangipani flower with a touch of mandarin. Byredo also taps into the mandarin, but blends it with jasmine and cotton candy. Orange Sanguine by Atelier Cologne captures freshly cut oranges in a bottle and is totally gender neutral, as is Clean’s Solar Bloom – a floral with the base note of patchouli. And for a bit of nostalgia there’s always the special summer edition of CK One – a throwback to the days when “summer fragrances” were all the rage.

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Via:: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/jun/23/30-best-beauty-products-for-summer-makeup-fragrance-suncare

      

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Colour flash: how to create this summer's makeup trends

By Kay Montano

It’s all about bright shades and bold lines. Kay Montano, makeup artist to the stars, reveals how to get five striking looks, with model of the moment Adesuwa Aighewi

The perfect base begins with a great, non-oily hydrator. Chanel’s Camellia Water Cream is light but incredibly effective. I used a mix of foundations, but I didn’t apply it everywhere – just apply it where you need it. For an even, refined finish use a brush. A dot of liquid highlighter blended on the cheekbones with a brush gives a beautiful glow. I applied concealer – using my finger – under the eyes, around the nose and mouth. I love Becca’s as it is not too oily. Blend out with a concealer brush. I finish off with a dusting of powder, but only apply on the T-zone so the skin still glows. To create this look, apply black liquid eyeliner across the crease of the eyelid. Extend it out further than normal for a point of difference. Apply mascara – looking down on a mirror results in fewer smudges – only on top lashes for a more natural finish. Blot between your lipstick applications – two or three should be sufficient – to intensify the colour.

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Via:: https://www.theguardian.com/global/2019/jun/23/get-the-latest-summer-makeup-looks-kat-montano

      

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Carine Roitfeld: 'Drink espresso, sleep in your makeup, don’t take selfies…'

By Sophie Heawood

Carine Roitfeld, queen of French fashion, reveals her rules for Parisienne chic to a ‘terrified’ Sophie Heawood

Carine Roitfeld was the editor of French Vogue for 10 years, worked closely with Karl Lagerfeld, is an adviser to Tom Ford – and is an absolute titan in the global fashion world. Naturally, what this means to me is that the thought of meeting her is absolutely terrifying, so I sit down in the Parisian hotel where we have arranged to do the interview and tell her this. She is dressed in black, of course, her slightly hunched posture making her look more like her 64 years. She is sipping a tiny coffee, and isn’t remotely surprised I’m terrified.

“People think I’m judging, but I’m not judging,” she says. “I’m watching. It’s different. People sometimes say, ‘My God her eyes will scan you,’ but it’s not to judge you. It’s to get ideas. It’s observation.”

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Via:: https://www.theguardian.com/global/2019/jun/23/carine-roitfeld-rules-for-chic-french-vogue

      

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From off-the-hook to on-the-peg: why fashion has gone fishing

By Leah Harper

Waders, waterproofs, waistcoats and beanies are this season’s must haves – perfect for the wet start to summer

Fashion takes its inspiration from diverse places – yet this summer some of the biggest trends are being influenced by a particularly unlikely source: fishing – or rather angling, to be specific.

It’s not the first time that fisherman fashion has been co-opted by those who don’t necessarily spend their leisure time with rods, reels and sinkers. But forget the Aran jumpers, thick-knit scarfs and rolled-up beanies that hit the catwalk – and subsequently the high street – circa 2016. This time around it is the utilitarian, functional fashion favoured by those fishing rivers and lakes that have become an unlikely style muse.

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Via:: https://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/2019/jun/23/from-off-the-hook-to-on-the-peg-why-fashion-has-gone-fishing

      

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Honest Beauty Debuts in Europe

MILAN — With a charming smile and a love declaration to Italy, Jessica Alba on Thursday marked the debut of her beauty line into the European market.
Wrapped in a summery, beige and orange floral printed dress, the actress-cum-entrepreneur presented her Honest Beauty color cosmetics and skin-care range, which will be exclusively distributed in Europe by the German perfumery chain Douglas.
In particular, the label debuted today on the retailer’s Italian e-store and will hit its local brick-and-mortar units starting June 24.
“We’re launching this concept in Italy first as it’s at the forefront of the beauty industry, always thinking two or three steps ahead, and I think this is the perfect partnership to bring this clean beauty concept and brand to Europe,” Alba said.
“This is a double win for us,” echoed Douglas Italia chief executive officer Fabio Pampani. “Our exclusive agreement to distribute the brand in Europe dates back to last year, then eight months ago we had a meeting with Jessica and her team in Milan, we showed her how we manage the retail and work with our clients and we offered to be the first [subsidiary] to rollout her line,” he said, noting how “Italy is acknowledged in the world

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Via:: https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/beauty-features/honest-beauty-debuts-in-europe-1203191188/

      

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Five Minutes With Makeup Artist Daniel Martin

MILAN — Daniel Martin’s talent is complemented by his lively personality.
Martin, who trained under Pat McGrath and is a Dior brand ambassador, is known to be the man behind the beauty looks of many celebrities, including Elizabeth Moss, Gemma Chan, Michelle Yeoh, Nina Dobrev and Olivia Palermo. He also worked with Jessica Alba for five years before being tapped as chief color consultant of the actress’ makeup and skin-care label Honest Beauty. In town for the European launch of the brand, Martin shared beauty hacks and his favorite memory about working on Meghan Markle’s most important makeup look: the one of her wedding day.
WWD: How do you conceive a makeup look for your clients?
Daniel Martin: A lot of times I start from the personality. If they come to me and they are not a very big makeup wearer, I automatically know that whatever I use on them is more like an accessory. So if they are very plain, they don’t like a lot of fuss but they want to look like finished, I kind of figure out what feature is it on their faces they are more comfortable with. So if they have like very beautiful bright eyes, then maybe

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Via:: https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/beauty-features/five-minutes-with-daniel-martin-1203191218/

      

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EXCLUSIVE: L’Oréal Paris and Garnier Name New Chiefs

PARIS — L’Oréal Paris and Garnier have two new chiefs.
Délphine Viguier-Hovasse has succeeded Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglou as global brand president of L’Oréal Paris.
As recently reported in WWD, Angeloglou joined Louis Vuitton earlier in June as director of strategic missions for the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned fashion and leather goods brand.
Viguier-Hovasse has served as global brand president of Garnier, another L’Oréal-owned company, for more than four years. “She strongly led the repositioning of Garnier to become a global key leader on the ‘natural’ market, with a healthy acceleration since mid-2018 of Garnier’s business, across zones and categories,” L’Oréal Paris said in a statement.
The executive also was general manager of LaScad for four years, during which time she oversaw the purchase and integration of Cadum. Viguier-Hovasse had stints at L’Oréal Paris cosmetics, Gemey-Maybelline Garnier and Gemey-Maybelline in France, where she began her career at L’Oréal in 1997.
In her new role, which marks the first time the world’s largest beauty brand has a woman at its helm, Viguier-Hovasse remains a member of L’Oréal’s Consumer Products Division management committee. She reports to Alexis Perakis-Valat, president of L’Oréal’s Consumer Products Division.
At Garnier, Adrien Koskas will step into Viguier-Hovasse’s former role of global brand president on July

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Via:: https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/beauty-features/exclusive-loreal-paris-garnier-name-new-chiefs-1203188847/

      

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Jane Lauder Honored at 30th Annual Art of Packaging Gala

It was the 30th year for the Art of Packaging Gala on Tuesday night in New York, and things were getting sentimental.
Marc Rosen, an early graduate of the packaging design master’s program at the Pratt Institute and later created the fragrance and cosmetics packaging course, was taken by surprise first when gifted a pair of Pratt-engraved Tiffany cufflinks by Pratt president Frances Bronet. Later in the evening, he was presented with a citation from Gov. Andrew Cuomo for his work.
Rosen wasn’t the only honoree at Tuesday’s gala, which was held at The University Club. The advertised star of the show was Jane Lauder, global president of Clinique, who inquired about the number of components in Clinique ID packaging — the answer is 25 — over dinner.
“Marc Rosen, you won’t probably remember this, but in the 1980s when I was looking for a job I remember that a friend of the family sent me to Elizabeth Arden to have an interview with you,” said John Demsey, executive group president for the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. He introduced Jane Lauder, calling her “one of the most extraordinary people I’ve met in my entire career,” and went on to laud her passion, drive and

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Via:: https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/beauty-features/jane-lauder-honored-at-30th-annual-art-of-packaging-gala-1203186247/

      

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Latest Hair Trend: Head Spas Grow in U.S.

“People get facials all the time, but why stop at the forehead?” said Keiko Uehara, co-owner of West Hollywood’s Blow Me Away.
The organic hair salon, which counts Gwyneth Paltrow as a client, specializes in scalp revitalization.
“It’s a detox,” said the Japanese native. “We deep-cleanse follicles. A lot of people have clogged follicles, and it prevents healthy hair growth.”
The treatment typically consists of a scalp exfoliation and massage. At Blow Me Away, the process involves an analysis, which utilizes a magnifier to study the condition of the scalp, followed by an exfoliation using a steaming bonnet and organic products by Oway, as well as an ayurveda-influenced massage. The price for the standard “botanical deep scalp spa” service ranges from $75 for 30 minutes to $125 for an hour.
“The head has a lot of pressure points, so massaging really activates stimulation for blood circulation, better sleep, stress release, anti-aging,” said Uehara. “It’s the hidden benefits of head spa… It’s routine in Japan.”
The head spa — as it’s known — is, in fact, a standard option in hair salons across Japan and it’s now catching on in L.A. and other major U.S. cities. Of late, the U.S. market has been booming with scalp-care

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Via:: https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/hair/latest-hair-trend-head-spas-grow-in-u-s-1203186326/

      

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Exclusivity Driving Growth in Mass Beauty

Change was in the air at the National Association of Chain Drug Stores’ annual meeting, held April 27 to April 30 at The Breakers in Palm Beach, Fla.
Historically, the pharmacy accounts for about 70 percent of most drug chains’ revenue. But escalating fees for prescription drugs — NACDS reports that DIR [direct and indirect remuneration] fees have increased 47,000 percent from 2010 to 2017 — has cut into the profit margins of many retailers and put pressure on the front end of the store to be more productive, particularly on beauty, which constitutes the most profitable section of most mass retailers.
“Beauty is an important category,” said Stefano Curti, global president of Markwins. “Customers tell us it’s the most profitable part of the business.
“The biggest challenge is the fight for market share,” he continued, “and inventing something new that transcends product.”
“The trade continues to be highly engaged with beauty, as it drives traffic to the stores and online platforms,” agreed Serge Jureidini, chief marketing officer of Revlon Inc. “Three things resonated as a big focus this year — personalization, clean beauty and the rapid growth of e-commerce.”
Indeed, for the last year, mass retailers have been going head to head, unleashing several

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Via:: https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/beauty-features/mass-beauty-nacds-exclusive-brands-1203123163/

      

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Why it’s now the bride who wears the trousers

By Leah Harper

Women are ditching frothy gowns to make their vows in jumpsuits or white separates

When Game of Thrones actress Sophie Turner married musician Joe Jonas in Las Vegas last week, she wore a pair of white, wide-leg trousers – and she’s not the first to ditch a traditional wedding dress for trousers or a jumpsuit.

Last week, British Vogue’s “ultimate modern bridal edit” featured three trouser options. And a report issued by fashion search engine Lyst earlier this spring said that online searches for white suits had increased by 43% over the previous three months.

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Via:: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/may/04/wedding-brides-jumpsuits-trousers

      

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The best vegan perfumes | Sali Hughes

By Sali Hughes

Think sin-free scents are low on luxury? Think again

Cruelty-free perfumes contain no animal-derived ingredients and are not sold in China, where the law requires cosmetics to be tested on animals. Whether or not you eat meat and dairy, I hope you’ll read on, because to assume vegan fragrances are low on luxury, craftsmanship and sophistication would be to miss out on some extremely fine scents.

I’m not an instinctive lover of warm, rounded perfumes, and so generally give amber a swerve, but 001 Amber (2; £65 for 100ml), from the independent British brand Laboratory Perfumes, has me hooked. Like all five of its fragrances, this is gender neutral, but skews ever so slightly masculine. It is woody, spicy and modern, but not showy. And it has a brightness that stops all that warmth becoming sticky. Atlas, by the same brand and also £65 for 100ml, smells like gingernut biscuits lining a boozy trifle, and should please anyone who likes a gourmand, puddingy scent.

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Via:: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/may/04/the-best-vegan-perfumes-sali-hughes

      

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Esxence Hosts Convincing Edition

MILAN — The 11th edition of Esxence — The Scent of Excellence marked a maturity test for the artistic perfumery show.
The four-day event was scheduled across a national holiday on April 25, which before the show left companies uncertain about what the turnout would be. Yet the hallways of “The Mall” venue were busier than during previous editions, consolidating Esxence’s role as a key stop for executives in the sector.
In particular, the show, which closed April 28, attracted 7,890 attendees from 77 countries, a 5 percent increase compared to last year. Visitors discovered and tried the fragrances of 221 international perfumery houses, 130 of which were showcased in the Spotlight section dedicated to emerging labels.
In addition, side projects aimed at further promoting the niche fragrance category both at the show and across the city — including a deeper focus on indie brands in the Experience Lab area and collaborations with the worlds of art, music and technology — were popular with both the industry and the public.
“Over these 10 years we gave to existing brands the opportunity to expand internationally, strengthen their commercial distribution, enhance their visibility and introduce new products through an exceptional showcase,” said Esxence cofounder Silvio Levi.

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Via:: https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/fragrance/esxence-hosts-convincing-edition-1203122646/

      

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How will Met Gala 2019 guests translate camp into costumes?

By Morwenna Ferrier

This year’s concept – ‘Camp: Notes on Fashion’, taken from a Susan Sontag essay – could push a refuge for the marginalised mainstream

The burning question at the 2019 Met Gala, the starry red carpet event that takes place at the Costume Institute in New York on Monday evening, is not about who is going, or which designer they are wearing.

Thanks to this year’s theme – “Camp: Notes on Fashion” – it’s about how an intellectual concept famously hard to define will work in a celebrity-driven fashion context.

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Via:: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/may/03/how-will-met-gala-2019-guests-translate-camp-into-costumes

      

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Viard’s first show as Lagerfeld successor marks new era for Chanel

By Jess Cartner-Morley

After 30 years at the highest level of fashion, Virginie Viard makes debut as solo designer

“Complacency,” designer Karl Lagerfeld once said, “is the beginning of the end.”

Three months after his death, this spirit lives on at Chanel. The house has sprung out of mourning and back into action, transforming the Grand Palais in Paris into a Belle Époque railway station for the first collection by Lagerfeld’s successor, Virginie Viard.

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Via:: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/may/03/chanel-virginie-viard-first-show-as-karl-lagerfeld-successor-marks-new-era

      

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Charlotte Tilbury, Estée Lauder Said to Have Had Deal Talks

Makeup brand Charlotte Tilbury is said to be up for grabs.
Several industry sources indicated that the brand has been going through an M&A process. Two sources said the company had been in serious talks with the Estée Lauder Cos., but that negotiations seem to have fallen apart. One source said the talks fell through because the two parties didn’t agree on a price — Lauder was said to be offering $1 billion, but the brand was said to be looking for $1.4 billion.
Tilbury was not immediately available for comment. A spokeswoman for Lauder declined to comment.
Industry sources said this is not the first time Lauder has expressed interest in acquiring Charlotte Tilbury. The brand is said to have between $150 million and $200 million in sales, and received backing from Sequoia Capital, a venture capital firm, in 2017. A representative for Sequoia did not immediately respond to a request for comment.
Tilbury, a makeup artist, is best known for her Magic Cream, $100, and Pillow Talk Matte Revolution Lipstick, $34, and has developed a range of face, eye, lip, body, fragrance and skin products since the brand was founded in 2013. Tilbury’s products are frequently merchandised with “look” suggestions that guide buyers

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Via:: https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/beauty-features/charlotte-tilbury-estee-lauder-said-to-have-had-deal-talks-1203122193/

      

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Sophia Hutchins Is Eyeing a Slice of the Clean Beauty Market

Sophia Hutchins is entering the clean beauty business.
The 23-year-old executive director of the Caitlyn Jenner Foundation spoke about her new SPF business, Luma Beauty, at an intimate dinner at the Upper East Side home of Susan Rockefeller on Wednesday evening.
Other attendees of boutique investment bank Ohana & Co.’s ninth annual “Success for Progress” event included designer Vera Wang, Parsons School of Design dean Joel Towers, beauty entrepreneur Menaye Donkor and documentary-maker Mark Bozek, whose film — “The Times of Bill Cunningham” — is due for release in July.
Notably absent was David Rockefeller Jr., the businessman, philanthropist and great-grandson of the U.S.’s first billionaire. His wife said he was still in Bermuda on a sailing trip she had cut short to host the dinner.
Hutchins told the eclectic mix of guests about her forthcoming SPF brand, which is still in the early development stages. While she did not share any further details on the financials, her partner, Caitlyn Jenner, is believed to be involved in the business.
“We closed our first round of fund-raising just over two months ago so we’re very new,” said Hutchins, adding that her products would target young, environmentally conscious consumers with its clean formula and sustainable packaging.
“The reason

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Via:: https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/skin-care/sophia-hutchins-taking-a-slice-of-the-clean-beauty-market-1203122259/

      

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Analysts Voice Concern Over Avon’s ‘Whack-a-Mole’ Market Correction Strategy

Wall Street analysts are concerned about Avon Products Inc.’s strategy to fix its many different geographic markets.
The beauty company routinely corrects operations in one market — usually one of its larger ones — then turns to a different region to spruce up operations there. But while it’s off fixing the next market, things frequently start deteriorating again in the initial region, one analyst noted on Avon’s earnings call Thursday, referring to the phenomenon as Avon’s “whack-a-mole” strategy.
For example, the Brazil business is showing signs of improvement. There, Avon has “refocused on the basics,” and numbers have gotten less bad. Brazil sales were down 2.4 percent in the quarter, executives said. But now that Brazil is on the mend, the company needs to devote attention to Russia, a market that did not adapt well to the sweeping changes implemented by chief executive officer Jan Zijderveld and his team.
Challenges in Russia aren’t unique to the region, executives said on Thursday’s call. Avon will focus driving productivity to increase representative earnings, switch up sales leader incentives and implement a school to teach representatives how to be microinfluencers.
“In terms of ‘whack-a-mole,’ in terms of one up, one down, the good news is that Mexico,

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Via:: https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/beauty-features/analysts-voice-concern-over-avons-whack-a-mole-market-correction-strategy-1203121865/

      

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