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Paul Smith Spring 2020

For his 82nd show, Sir Paul Smith was in his element, focusing on the season’s big message, tailoring, a category he’s religiously stuck by throughout the whole streetwear phenomenon. “I’ve never not done tailoring, every one of my shows has had tailoring in it. I’ve always nudged it in,” the designer said backstage.
Here it hogged the limelight, with a run of very of-the-now, super Eighties, boxy silhouettes playing with proportions and colors, like the three-button suit and the ultra oversize, large and long double-breasted that he layered over looks like an outerwear piece. Folding in the odd hi-tech material, it was all worked in a beautiful color palette that made it really Paul Smith, juxtaposing neutral tones and daring monochromatic colors, including total looks of bright yellow, pink or cobalt blue.
Dubbed “Collage” in homage to the designer’s first trip to New York in the Seventies — “a time where a few of the uptown galleries, like Leo Castelli, OK Harris and Pace, were opening downtown” — the collection mixed technical and classic fabrics and a sprinkling of collage prints.
“People like [Willem] de Kooning and [Andy] Warhol and [Robert] Rauschenberg were starting to play with cutting stuff up, silk screens, stencils,

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/mens-spring-collections-2020/paris/paul-smith/review/