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Haider Ackermann Fall 2019

If you weren’t already convinced Haider Ackermann is one of the sexiest designers in Paris, you would be after hearing his NSFW heart-thumping, rapturous-moaning show soundtrack. Wowza.
It set the tone for the designer’s latest exploration of gender and sexuality. Nothing unisex here (that’s still somewhat of a dirty word in fashion), “it was all about borrowing clothes from your loved one,” he said backstage. The morning after, perhaps? And indeed, you couldn’t tell what was for women and what was for men, or even who was whom model-wise underneath the androgynous slicked back hair that created its own kind of new, non-binary normal on the runway.
As usual, the focus was sculptural tailoring, but not in the long liquid style or moody color palette laced with exoticism of seasons past. Instead, Ackermann wanted to “restrict it to something graphic to really challenge myself,” he said by way of explaining the black, white and red of the collection, including a long, duster coat reminiscent of a color field painting.
Throughout, there was a dialogue between structure and ease; a fitted jacket with concealed buttons, fabric twisted into something reminiscent of a shoulder embrace, for example. The style came in a variety of fabrications,

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/fall-ready-to-wear-2019/paris/haider-ackermann/review/