Designer: Ryuhei Oomaru
Backstory: Oomaru is coy when asked to name the high-end clients he services at Oomaru Seisakusho 2 Inc., his 10-year-old pattern-making and sample creation studio on Canal Street in New York, saying only that they are among the best-known names in the industry. What the former head tailor for Donna Karan isn’t reluctant to talk about, however, is his personal side project, Overcoat, a brand he created three seasons ago to offer a distinct structural take on apparel that is based on his skills in creating patterns, expertise he undoubtedly honed during his time working for Comme des Garçons. The unisex and uni-size collection, which has been expanded to include suits, shirts and trousers, is inspired by the storefront awnings he saw in his adopted home of New York. The collection was shown for the first time during New York Fashion Week: Men earlier this month.
Key styles: Outerwear is still a key part of the line and features several capelike models that have been created from canvas and vinyl fabrics like those used in awnings. A “cape shoulder” is a silhouette for fall and is created from one continuous rectangular piece that creates a capelike drape when