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R13 Pre-Fall 2019

R13’s Chris Leba is in the throes of consolidating his offices into a new downtown space — and gearing up to open his first brick-and-mortar store on the ground level sometime next year. Women’s market is in full swing, then men’s, then women’s again.
He drew light inspiration for his pre-fall from Sofia Coppola’s film “Marie Antoinette,” enticed by its frivolity and baroque elements. Subtle winks to the film were seen in the ruffles on billowing button-down shirts, and sand-washed floral-printed silks rendered into easy and sexy tops with animal print accents. Otherwise, the collection featured Leba’s usual balance of eccentric punk, tailoring and inventive denim.
At the core of the collection were young, exciting, wearable clothes with gender-ambiguous undertones. A bleached group of suiting and sweatshirts with safety-pin embellishments provided edge to more formal men’s-inspired attire, and upcycled vintage motorcycle jackets which are specially studded in Los Angeles and can’t easily be replicated. One effortlessly cool pinstriped blazer was cut generously and studded along the lapels. Leba noted many of the tailored items could end up in the men’s line, following a recent trend of gender-fluid design.
He thrived when using denim to experiment with new, inventive shapes, such as jackets with

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/2019-pre-fall/new-york/r13/review/

      

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Nicole Miller RTW Pre-Fall 2019

Nicole Miller featured her pre-fall collection on a character who embodied its mix of tough and tender — model and professional skydiver Alyona Subbotina.
“I had such a strong personality wear them. She worked into the story because I felt I always design for that strong girl who has the feminine soft side and the edge together,” Miller mused. Camouflage prints with tiny flowers were mixed with dark floral prints on multiple easy dresses, and most memorably on an oversize utility coat. One little black dress had bows sewn all over it. “If you’re a goody-two-shoe, you make it all bows, and if you’re a badass, you make it all knots or let it hang, but I showed it half and half for duality,” the designer explained.
Miller referred to her light-colored floral frocks as “the sweeter things in life,” and mixed in bomber jackets and half-leather, half-cotton denim pants to toughen them up.

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/2019-pre-fall/new-york/nicole-miller/review/

      

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Jonathan Simkhai Pre-Fall 2019

Jonathan Simkhai swirled all of his categories — ready-to-wear, swim and new lingerie — into his pre-fall lineup. Inspiration gleaned from a trip to Morocco resulted in an overarching theme of disco glamour and rich color derived from turmeric gold and bougainvillea pink and magenta to tie everything together, though there was diversity in the range. Many styles came with built-in lingerie layering pieces that solved the problem posed by wanting to create a louche look without struggling to find slips and underpinnings in the right lengths, colors and fabrications. For example, a magenta slipdress was layered over a lace turtleneck slip and a blazer came with a detachable camisole underlayer.
“I think it’s a nice thing,” said Simkhai of the pre-styled looks. “I’ve seen things like jackets with sweatshirts that you can zip out. I kind of love and hate the idea, but I thought it was interesting. How do I make it elevated and sexy? By building in the slips and lingerie.”
Lounge-y glamour came in blush-toned jacquard pajamas and a shimmery blazer and matching shorts. And if there’s such a thing as day-to-night swimwear, Simkhai’s retro glamour shapes could take you from the pool to the club depending on how

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/2019-pre-fall/new-york/jonathan-simkhai/review/

      

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Akris RTW Pre-Fall 2019

In place of the inspiration for one specific artist for his pre-fall collection, Albert Kriemler looked to his time in Switzerland in combination with a warm-hued undertone of an Indian summer.
“Nature being a constant reference in my work, this is a journey through nature in the Swiss alps with my view of the mountains and the most refined St. Gallen embroidery,” Kriemler described of a wonderful halter-neck black gown with a graphic line-print embroidery of the mountain, also seen on a wrap jacket and matching trouser. Plaids sets and most notably, the designer’s bright “Indian summer” design, seen as a paillette covered top or printed on chiffon skirts, made for a bulk of the collection.
Elsewhere, key pieces included featherweight 100 percent cashmere coats and blazers as well as a lightweight cotton plaid trench that could be worn three ways: as a long coat, zipped off to a cropped coat or wrapped as a dress. Kriemler noted the collection, “very much reflects my passion for fabrics and my ongoing mission to unite craftsmanship with innovation and technology.”

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/2019-pre-fall/new-york/akris/review/

      

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Rachel Zoe Pre-Fall 2019

Rachel Zoe was dreaming of Greece when she designed her pre-fall collection. “Everyone I knew was on vacation there, so it inspired me to design for a Greek vacation. My pre-fall collection is basically summer at this point,” she said. She included her requisite white pantsuits, done in washed linen, as well as prints that literally borrowed from the landscape — an allover bougainvillea print and a cobblestone pattern for blouses and dresses, and a floral sequined fabric she used for a minidress.
Zoe also continued to explore her newfound romantic side with color. What began with a foray into florals, pink and blush for spring has bloomed in an “obsession” as she put it, with lilac, lavender and orchid. This palette suited the lineup of bohemian ruffled fil coupé dresses as well as a Seventies-inspired one-shouldered caftan. A pale lavender chiffon one-shouldered ruffled gown was particularly pretty.
Since no Zoe collection is complete without a few gold sequined numbers, she offered her version of a goddess gown and minidress with subtle draping, and the pantsuit this time skewed more slouchy pajama dressing than Seventies rocker.

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/2019-pre-fall/los-angeles/rachel-zoe/review/

      

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Brock Collection Pre-Fall 2019

Kristopher Brock and Laura Vassar start each collection with fabric and the question of “What is new romance?” For pre-fall, the answer was in branching out from their signature storybook florals and finding inspiration in men’s wear, specifically plaids and tweeds. They worked with meaty, colorful yarns to create lofty tweed jackets and skirts in lean silhouettes. “It was about masculinizing but not leaving the florals,” said Brock, noting that was also the focus of their new shoe collection, which featured flat, mannish boots to complement and ground the femininity of the clothes.
Brock’s antique wallpaper jacquard florals were still well-accounted for on dresses with peplums, boning and raw edges. But Vassar noted that they really sought to bring the dreamy quality of the label’s ethos into a modern wardrobe. “We want to be really smart about what we’re delivering, so more separates and cardigan-like evening jackets that can be worn to dinner over jeans,” she said. Indeed, the lineup’s controlled silhouettes in lavish fabrics were the savvy way to turn the fairy tale into a reality.

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/2019-pre-fall/new-york/brock/review/

      

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Sachin & Babi Pre-Fall 2019

Sachin and Babi Ahluwalia have found e-commerce to be invaluable insight into consumer behavior. They started offering international shipping last month and have received orders from Qatar, UAE and Australia, to name a few surprising locations. They’re known for fanciful gowns at accessible pricing, yet e-commerce has shown a demand for refined evening separates as well.
They offered many. There was a monochromatic group of wardrobe pillars that included a knit flutter sleeve top or one with an asymmetric flowy drape, both of which could easily transgress casual territory. That was the hallmark of the collection, which the designers attribute to customers’ evolving style and needs. (They were reminded not long ago that gala season, aka the need for gowns, spans less than half the year.)
There were soft pastels, sparkly jewel tones, pops of sunshine yellow and a “country chic” group that transitioned day-to-evening. Imagine lightweight floral robe coats working for a summer wedding, or prairie skirts for everyday when paired with a wrap-front bodysuit that had slight puff sleeves. A common thread of ease and fluidity could be extracted from silk dresses that were playful but still dressed up. A chic black gown with flutter sleeves connected by fancy buttons

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/2019-pre-fall/new-york/sachin-and-babi/review/

      

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Lafayette 148 Pre-Fall 2019

Creative director Emily Smith’s formula for pre-fall was a little bit American southwest mixed with the work of light and space artist James Turrell, who is best known for the Roden Crater, a large-scale installation set inside a volcanic cinder cone in the Painted Desert region of Arizona. The result was a wide range of breezy silhouettes balancing a sense of ease with cool. Smith has been steering the brand in a younger direction the past few seasons, and this collection seemed to mark the full realization of those efforts.
References to the inspirations were light, and seen only through ombré, tie-dye and landscape prints in rich, earthy tones. A buttery camel leather coat with ombré effect displayed the collection’s sleek sensibility, while a gray leather jacket and skirt with the same dip-dye effect leaned more edgy and fun. Dresses were used as a canvas and featured abstract sand dunes and cloud prints — none of which read literal. An elegant chambray dress with obilike belt was the closest thing to Wild West fashion. She focused on silhouettes that lend themselves to easy summer dressing, including lounge-y and chic pajama sets, cotton wrap-front blouses and a great oversized travel scarf created by

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/2019-pre-fall/new-york/lafayette-148-collection/review/

      

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Ulla Johnson Pre-Fall 2019

Everyone knows the importance of pre-collections to driving business in terms of their size, scope and time on the sales floor. Rather than concede to the commercial realities of the collection by watering down the aesthetics, Ulla Johnson sought to bring her pre-fall lineup up to the runway-level of her main seasons. “We wanted to create beautiful, impactful pieces and really deliver something that has a fresh point of view and is the labor of love we dedicate to the runway,” she said. The collection showed her depth and range beyond the pretty boho frocks for which she’s known.
The baseline for Johnson’s work is increasingly sophisticated, with a cool tension between sturdy, masculine fabrics and light, fluttery soft things. She powered up silhouettes with an Eighties vibe, showing voluminous tapered pants and jackets with puffed sleeves. A self-described color junkie, she took her palette from the work of Milton Avery and Gauguin’s Tahitian works, zoning in on the powerful combination of marigold and teal. It appeared on floral dresses and on a dense hand-knit sweater with clusters of flowers knitted around the neckline worn with high-waisted cotton teal pants. Johnson’s fabric treatments were heightened. There were strong acid washed denim,

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/2019-pre-fall/new-york/ulla-johnson/review/

      

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Dennis Basso Pre-Fall 2019

“This collection is about from the boardroom to the ballroom,” Dennis Basso began. “In this collection, I used men’s wear-inspired fabrics in a completely feminine way. Also, going from Indian Summer into pre-fall, because pre-fall isn’t really winter; I took a deep look into it while incorporating city to country.”
Basso’s ultrafeminine interpretation of men’s wear for women’s wear meant pinstriped dresses with lace trim, exaggerated houndstooth shapes came beaded — embroidered on a lime cocktail dress or graphic ballgown, as well as in sable on a lightweight organza jacket. Fur jackets were rendered for the lighter season in multiple bolero styles.
The collection leaned far more city than country, in a good way, and aside from men’s wear inspired, there was a stronger assortment of simpler, sportier garb. A color-blocked evening gown, a great pair of black leather trousers, a pink silk jumpsuit and trouser with brocade top, and a sheared mink and leather moto jacket. A sable and jersey zip-up jacket paired back with a sable miniskirt made for another great option for Basso’s younger clientele.

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/2019-pre-fall/new-york/dennis-basso/review/

      

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Adam Lippes Pre-Fall 2019

This was a beautiful collection by Adam Lippes — every fabric, every finishing, every detail highly considered and carefully crafted. The perfect example: the black silk blazer with antique Art Deco crystal buttons lined in silk. “It’s probably my favorite piece,” Lippes said during a preview of the lineup. “I know it’s a black blazer but it’s the quality, the finishing. Our shapes are never crazy.”
True to his point, a lot of the pieces were derived from classics — trenches, jumpsuits, shirting, handknits — elevated with special details, like floral prints done from blown up, blurry 35-mm. expired film, and a silk cotton peasant dress with a full skirt and accentuated waist. But he also pushed big, fantastical volumes on dresses, gowns and even a cape that had a folkloric, fairy-tale quality inspired by Roberto Peregalli interiors. The lace on a white embroidered tulle dress — voluminous pleats strung from delicate spaghetti straps — was some of the prettiest seen this season. The eveningwear was ultra-feminine, girlish even but handled with sophistication so that an adult woman could wear it without feeling infantile.
Lippes knows what his woman wants. He’s done 20 store visits all over the country — Chicago, Dallas,

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/2019-pre-fall/new-york/adam-lippes/review/

      

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Monse Pre-Fall 2019

Woof. Monse’s pre-fall collection was a dog, but in a good way. Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim aren’t dog owners, but they’re dog lovers. They laced their pre-fall collection with dog inspo, from a Disney collaboration to shoes made with dog leashes to their look-book shoot, which featured 30 dogs available for adoption from six local pet rescue organizations. It was cute on multiple levels.
Through the Disney collaboration, Pluto appeared on a hoodie, jeans and embroidery on a patchwork bandana print coat. For those who aren’t dog lovers, or are but don’t want to wear their pets on their sleeves, the bulk of the collection was devoted to Monse’s signature, sophisticated men’s wear-derived deconstruction. “It always starts with taking a men’s jacket every season and figuring out how to make it fresh,” said Garcia. They turned them inside-out to show off the linings, which resulted in a cool patchwork effect on spliced jackets, skirts, pants and shirts with multiple necks on women’s looks and the unisex/men’s line they introduced for spring.
Garcia noted that they worked with lace for the first time, cutting it in a baseball pattern that aligned with a latent collegiate theme of varsity jackets and shirts labeled

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/2019-pre-fall/new-york/monse/review/

      

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Kobi Halperin Pre-Fall 2019

Recently enamored with street casual, fashion is swinging back to dressing up. Kobi Halperin knows it, and he’s found success in just three years by offering approachable silhouettes with novelty embroidery and surface interest that make women feel confident and beautiful.
In searching for inspiration this season, he was taken by artists Ori Gersht and Jan Brueghel the Elder. Gersht, a contemporary artist, replicated three of Brueghel’s floral paintings from 1606 with silk and plastic, placed them in front of mirrors and captured the mirrors’ explosions on camera. It was a process that explored reality and fantasy.
In examining his own reality, Halperin found beauty in the floral arrangements outside New York delis. Thus, a floral theme was born. He offered them in iterations lifelike and otherwise to entice women to dress up. There were eight mix-and-match floral prints meant to be layered together, brightly colored short-sleeve blouses with minimal leaf embroidery, classic scarf prints and Uzbek embroidery that lent an artisanal touch to outerwear and A-line skirts. Tailoring proved exciting, with x-stitch floral embroidery that was both crafty and pixelated. It’s hard not to smile seeing his look-book models posing in head-to-toe floral looks in front of deli flowers.

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/2019-pre-fall/new-york/kobi-halperin/review/

      

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MSGM RTW Pre-Fall 2019

Rethinking contemporary fashion and taking a step back from the street look was the main goal of Massimo Giorgetti for the pre-fall season.
To accomplish his mission, the designer focused on the house’s core codes and pieces, which he managed to approach in a new, more elevated and mature way.
Naming his collection “The Poetry of Youth,” Giorgetti confirmed his intention to stay true to the brand’s young and fun DNA, while reinterpreting it with a more sophisticated touch.
For example, the brand’s signature ruffled short dresses were still there, but they were rendered in chic moiré silk printed with a wallpaper-inspired floral motif, while plissé patchwork frocks showed inserts splashed with a handwritten-like print inspired by a letter which Man Ray wrote to his love, Elizabeth Lee Miller.
An American college inspiration echoed not only in the multicolor knitwear, but also in the covetable outwear hybrids, combining the silhouettes of bombers, varsity jackets and duffle coats. The category was further explored with impeccable trenches revealing unexpected side panels crafted from silk moiré or sequins.
For a hint of extra fun and irony, Giorgetti also introduced prints of cats — some sweet other showing meowing space invaders — which were paired with the metallic surfaces

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/2019-pre-fall/milan/msgm/review/

      

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Tse RTW Pre-Fall 2019

For their latest collection, the designers of Tse stayed on the course of their multiseason inspiration from the Kutch region of Gujarat with a new focus on the sartorial details of the Rabari women. Garment ornamentations were reinterpreted into braided trims, smocking and subtle lacework while Rabari tattoos were translated into pointelle stitching on luxurious cashmere and fine gauge wool clothing in a palette, also derived from their dress, of mixed reds, inky purples, spiced coral and lighter neutrals.
The brand’s standard double-faced cashmere offerings came with new details: in allover tonal, weave or smocked stitching or with subtle braids along shoulders and pointelle stitches down the chest. A double-faced cashmere miniskirt-and-jacket set made for a perfect day-on-the-town look versus drapey cardigans for a night in. A wonderful new pleated category of Italian merino wool (an important new fabric for the brand) pants, dresses and skirts brought depth and volume to the lineup while a reversible logo-like “T” double-knit shirt and wraps winked at an upcoming capsule that will celebrate the brand’s anniversary.

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/2019-pre-fall/new-york/tse/review/

      

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Christian Siriano Pre-Fall 2019

“Welcome to lavender world,” Christian Siriano declared upon entering his atelier. The designer took the color to the extreme for pre-fall, injecting soft shades of lavender and lilac into his signature sculptural gowns and a wide range of sleek, daytime silhouettes.
Siriano has been laser-focused with his pre-collections lately — remember, resort was a punch of Barbie pink. Because pre-season collections sit on sales floors the longest, it’s an effort to keep the seasonal messages consistent across different store buys.
The first piece he created was the most elaborate. It also clearly displayed the collection’s inspiration: the lavender fields in Provence, France. Dramatic, tiered layers mirrored the rows of flowers without being overbearing, and the gown would be a great Oscar-night contender, perhaps for Lady Gaga. Other dresses balancing his penchant for drama against feminine charm included a mini lilac number with voluminous sleeves, a pouffy little black dress with cold-shoulder draping, and an elegant white gown with a built-in capelet. Draping, wrap and ruffle details are modern ways Siriano has used to address conservative clients who ask for more coverage.
The collection ranged from feminine and formal to cool and everyday. Separates were meant to be mixed and matched and dressed up

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/2019-pre-fall/new-york/christian-siriano/review/

      

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Yigal Azrouël Pre-Fall 2019

Minimalist and alluring, masculine and feminine, structured and fluid. Yigal Azrouël thrives in these harmonious forces. “It’s about textures, it’s about movement and deconstructing pieces,” he said of the collection at his showroom inside the new Greenwich Village WeWork.
Azrouël maintains a polished hand in his designs, so even takes on deconstruction are slight and clean, like a standout pieced-together knit dress consisting of contrast cuffs, wool cashmere body, pleated silk and lightweight construction. Asymmetry proved to be the most provocative element to his lineup, ranging from demure pleated or gathered dresses to drapey elegant tops.
He emphasized soft dressing by using natural cotton for shirting and breathable twill for dresses to highlight the collection’s buy-now appeal for summer. The only sense of fall came through in gummy leather and the rainproof glossed twill plaid cut into edgy and sophisticated outerwear.
Pieces were meant to be layered and built into a year-round wardrobe. There was a certain chicness to pleated button downs that could pair equally with a matching wrap skirt or pants featuring the designer’s signature statement utility pockets. Therein lies the brand’s strength: There isn’t much hanger appeal, but pieces are easy to wear and feature precise cuts and elevated details

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/2019-pre-fall/new-york/yigal-azrouel/review/

      

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Lorod Pre-Fall 2019

For pre-fall, Lorod’s Lauren Rodriguez mashed up the brand’s signature play on workwear and American craft details with a playful spirit à la sporty uniforms and new takes on fashionable utilitarian garb. Inspiration from “A League of Their Own” resulted in a lightweight washed silk baseball dress and bowling shoes, a part of their third collaboration with Manolo Blahnik, with stitching meant to resemble baseballs while sporty ephemera pictorials were scattered on tighter under layers in a “(Robert) Rauschenberg-inspired assemblage-collage.”
While it was unclear of cofounder Michael Freels’ involvement for the latest collection, creative director and cofounder Rodriguez mentioned she’s running the show solo, and impressively so. Workwear-inspired denim and suiting was offered for the first time in men’s sizing, although the brand has been long worn by both genders, as were crafty knits, another expanded category, that paid homage to American craft with whipstitching and patchwork.
From polka-dotted or apricot-colored suiting to fine-gauge knits with swirly folds that mimicked the coiled lining of air force uniform flight jackets, the lineup felt fresh while adhering to the strengths of the brand’s DNA.

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/2019-pre-fall/new-york/lorod/review/

      

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Badgley Mischka Pre-Fall 2019

After 30 years of customer engagement, Mark Badgley and James Mischka know a thing or two about what women want. Apart from high glam, they want ease, they want practicality and they’ll no longer sacrifice comfort. That’s why their pre-fall collection was all about sleek, unfussy clothes to invest in. “We want to make it fashion, but at the same time customer-focused,” Mischka said at a walk-through, adding: “We know what colors she’s looking for, what coverage, what silhouettes.”
The designers previously developed a stretchy fabric akin to Neoprene that they now cut into dresses ranging from monastic (a long-sleeve with embellished neckline) to dramatic (a sleeveless stunner with striking ruffle peplum). The fabric has been a hit for its stretch and lightweight quality.
Signature elaborate embroidery appeared on a pair of gorgeous floral sequined gowns with sequined slip linings, and jewel tones like emerald and sapphire enriched the evening-oriented range, including a mini brocade dress with black diamond grommets and big bows. But it wasn’t all for night; there was modern appeal, too, when the designers offered up a sexy coatdress cut short to show off legs and a billowy, yet sophisticated, take on the shirtdress.

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/2019-pre-fall/new-york/badgley-mischka/review/

      

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Caroline Constas Pre-Fall 2019

Caroline Constas tends to design her pre-fall collections, which include high summer and transitional attire, in Greece every year; naturally, her summer trips lend themselves as inspiration for more see-now-buy-now pieces to wear there. Constas infused the lineup with new takes on looks she’s been succeeding commercially with: leopard-print dresses, tanks and trousers updated in charmeuse and chiffon, as well as miniskirt matching sets in simple, painterly florals or polka dots. “I never get tired of the flowy,” she mused, and there was plenty. A minidress with a v-neck, drop waist and ruched, long sleeves made for a strong new shape to her consistent printed flirty dresses. Knits, another area Constas has been excelling in, came lighter than any season before, offered in turtlenecks and cardigans with slightly puffed shoulders in jewel-toned Lurex, perfect for layering during a chilly summer evening.

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/2019-pre-fall/new-york/caroline-constas/review/

      

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