Day: February 22, 2021

Burberry's Riccardo Tisci taps into the fluid generation

By Jess Cartner-Morley

Collection inspired by the ‘great outdoors’ featured silk skirts and women but was entirely menswear

There were elegant pleated silk skirts and several of the models were women, but Burberry’s latest catwalk show – filmed in the brand’s empty and shuttered London flagship store and live-streamed as part of a digital-only London fashion week – was an entirely menswear collection.

In a Zoom call after the show, the designer Riccardo Tisci shrugged off any apparent contradiction as representing an outdated way of thinking about clothes. “Fluidity is a really important word to the younger generation,” he said. “They aren’t frightened of it, because they aren’t scared of their sexuality.”

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Via:: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2021/feb/22/burberrys-riccardo-tisci-taps-into-the-fluid-generation

      

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Harper's Bazaar Megan Thee Stallion cover sparks representation controversy

By Priya Elan

Criticisms of photo shoot for rapper echo previous fashion controversies about photographing black women

A Harper’s Bazaar cover featuring Megan Thee Stallion has been criticised for its portrayal of the rapper, amid continuing debate over how black people are photographed in fashion.

The March issue of the venerable magazine has two covers. The first features Megan Thee Stallion in a black bardot top from Saint Laurent. In the second she wears a black cape from Chanel and earrings from Bulgari.

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Via:: https://www.theguardian.com/music/2021/feb/22/harpers-bazaar-megan-thee-stallion-cover

      

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'A cavalcade of good bad taste': men leading the revival of flares

By Priya Elan Deputy fashion editor

Harry Styles and Lakeith Stanfield are among those helping the maligned 1970s fashion staple into the mainstream

As comebacks go, this is probably not the one you’ve been waiting for, but after years of being maligned by most men as more suitable for fancy dress, flared trousers are now being embraced by younger generations, including the likes of Harry Styles.

Flares had their heyday in the 1970s, of course, but now fashion designers such as Gucci, Casablanca, Wales Bonner, Martine Rose and Lemaire have featured the bell-bottomed silhouette in their recent collections. Year-on-year searches for “flares” are up by 43% in the UK and by 33% globally, according to Digital Loft, and on Instagram last week the rapper Travis Scott posed in a pair from Raf Simons’ spring/summer 21 collection while actor Lakeith Stanfield wore a pinstripe pair.

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Via:: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2021/feb/22/a-cavalcade-of-good-bad-taste-men-leading-the-revival-of-flares

      

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God bless the style: how Billie Holiday made glamour revolutionary

By Lauren Cochrane

With Lee Daniels’ film The United States Vs Billie Holiday out this week, the jazz star’s signatures – gowns, gloves and gardenias – are being reassessed. Could they be seen as a radical act?

For her comeback concert at Carnegie Hall in March 1948, after 10 months in jail, Billie Holiday wore a long gown, gloves and that trademark gardenia. She was, as always, every inch the star. From those gowns on stage, to fur coats, ponytails and diamanté sunglasses offstage, Holiday oozed mid-century glamour.

Lee Daniels’ The United States Vs Billie Holiday is released this month. The film, starring Andra Day, focuses on Holiday at the height of her fame in the late 40s and early 50s when she was targeted by the FBI, after she started singing Strange Fruit, a protest song about lynching in the south. Seen by the agency as a troublemaker when she refused to stop singing what was seen as a controversial song, the FBI recruited Jimmy Fletcher, a rare Black agent, to bust Holiday – a known heroin user – for drug offences. Daniels’ film, using Johann Hari’s 2015 book Chasing the Scream as its basis, tells the story of that time. And style is part of that story.

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Via:: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2021/feb/22/god-bless-the-style-how-billie-holiday-made-glamour-revolutionary

      

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