Au Jour Le Jour RTW Fall 2019

Setting aside the ironic, playful graphics, which characterized their early efforts, Diego Marquez and Mirko Fontana embraced a more urban, glamorous aesthetic. “The irony is still there but is expressed in a different way,” said Marquez, referring in particular to the intentionally wrong proportions characterizing some of the pieces. For example, a pair of jeans […]

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M.Patmos RTW Fall 2019

After opening her Brooklyn store in the fall, Marcia Patmos has been observing and evaluating what exactly her cozy line, M.Patmos, needs the most. “Having a store lately has been, “what are we missing?” she questioned during a showroom appointment of her fall collection. Practical, wonderful layers and layers of knits, as well as a […]

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Lagerfeld Talks With WWD: Through the Years

The late Karl Lagerfeld had a long-standing relationship with this publication. Here, some memorable quotes. 1969 “I don’t like retrospectives, but the Twenties and Thirties were the last epoch near to us when things were still well made…when there was quality.” “I like it when people say I am French, but it would be presumptuous […]

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Fitness and Outdoor Participation Is Up — but Footwear Brands Aren’t Capitalizing

The Sports & Fitness Industry Association released its annual participation report today, and it showed that more people were active in 2018 than in years past. According to the report, 218.5 million people engaged in a physical activity in 2018, an increase of 1.6 million from 2017. The biggest increases in participation came in the […]

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These Are the Heels Every Contestant Will Wear at the 2019 Miss USA Pageant

Lauren Lorraine shoes are now fit for a queen. A beauty queen that is. The special occasion footwear brand has been named the official sponsor for both Miss USA and Miss Teen USA Pageants in 2019. Contestants will wear two Lauren Lorraine shoe styles during the Miss USA competition — one for the opening and […]

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Karl Lagerfeld’s Best Chanel Red Carpet Looks of All Time

Karl Lagerfeld has designed no shortage of memorable red carpet looks. The late Chanel fashion designer was tasked with dressing both his muses, such as Cara Delevingne and Keira Knightley, along with A-list celebrities during awards season, including Emma Stone and Margot Robbie. Margot Robbie wears Chanel Couture at the 72nd British Academy Film Awards. […]

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Kim Kardashian Calls Out Fast-fashion Brands for Designer Knock-offs

Kim Kardashian is over fast-fashion retailers knocking off her designer looks. On Sunday, Kardashian attended the Hollywood Beauty Awards wearing a vintage — and quite revealing — Mugler dress. In less than 24 hours, the dress appeared on fast-fashion retailer Fashion Nova, ready for pre-order. Kardashian, who routinely has her designer wares copied by fast-fashion […]

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What the Oscars Looked Like 10 Years Ago — See the Celeb Red Carpet Arrivals

Capping off a jam-packed awards season, the Oscars is always one of the biggest events on the calendar. The 2009 event was no exception, with “Slumdog Millionaire” picking up eight awards and Heath Ledger earning a posthumous Best Supporting Actor statue for his role in “The Dark Knight.” But the star-studded red carpet was also […]

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Sergio Tacchini Introduces Line for North American Market

Chris Ivery, a longtime music producer and executive, always had an affinity for Sergio Tacchini, the Italian sportswear brand started in 1966 by Italian tennis player Sergio Tacchini — it was endorsed by other tennis pros including John McEnroe, Jimmy Connors and Gabriela Sabatini. Once Ivery noticed other heritage sportswear brands reemerging, he thought about […]

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Melania Trump Pays Tribute to Karl Lagerfeld — and Reveals a Sketch of the Bespoke Dress He Created for Her

Before marrying President Donald Trump, Melania Trump was a fashion model — so it comes as no surprise that she’s among the many celebrities who took to social media to toast Karl Lagerfeld after he passed away today. The 85-year-old Lagerfeld — who had been serving as creative director for Chanel, Fendi and his eponymous […]

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Joan Ryan Becomes Eighth MP To Quit Labour To Join Independent Group

By Graeme Demianyk An eighth Labour MP has announced she is quitting the party and will join the Independent Group in the House of Commons. Joan Ryan, who represents Enfield North, blasted the party leadership’s “dereliction of duty in the face of this evil” as she hit out over a failure to tackle anti-Semitism. This […]

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The Sets That Karl Built

As the 21st century dawned, Karl Lagerfeld — always one whose imagination knew no bounds — began to think even bigger at Chanel, at least when it came to his show sets. The venue was generally the Grand Palais with its 11-story glass cupola, while the set was always one to take guests’ breaths away. […]

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Goat RTW Fall 2019

Jane Lewis took a bohemian turn, and put the focus on eveningwear, for this brand, which has been going from strength to strength internationally at specialty and department stores as well as on the Goat web site. Her collection included long paisley dresses, some with pussy bows and Lurex stripes, and other languid ones in […]

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Sajid Javid Accused Of ‘Playing Politics’ After Stripping Shamima Begum Of British Citizenship

By Rachel Wearmouth Sajid Javid stands accused of “playing politics” after IS teen Shamima Begum was stripped of her British citizenship. According to a letter sent to Begum’s family, the home secretary, who is viewed as a leading candidate to replace Theresa May, ordered the move against the 19-year-old Londoner on Tuesday. It followed appeals […]

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Economic Incentives Key to Solving U.K. Fashion Industry’s Sustainability Issue, Says Parliament

LONDON — Sustainability campaigners have applauded a new report by the U.K.’s Environmental Audit Committee that highlights the culture of throwaway fashion and the unfavorable working conditions in the country’s apparel factories. “The report is unequivocal in its message: ‘The fashion industry’s current business model is clearly unsustainable,’” said Prof. Dilys Williams, director at the […]

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London’s Up-and-Coming Designers Explore Female Power and Sexuality for Fall

LONDON — Female power and sexuality sparked the creativity of many of the emerging fashion names in London this season, who showcased their work at the British Fashion Council’s Discovery Lab show space. Through immersive presentations, designers delivered different takes on femininity and conveyed powerful social statements with their fall collections. Central Saint Martins graduate […]

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Lady Gaga, Christian Carino Call Off Engagement

The couple had been engaged since October 2018. Via:: https://www.huffpost.com/entry/lady-gaga-christian-carino-call-off-engagement_n_5c6c6ebae4b0f40774c9a2cf       

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United Colors of Benetton RTW Fall 2019

The death of Karl Lagerfeld obviously took center stage in Milan on Tuesday and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac paid tribute to the designer before the start of his first runway show for United Colors of Benetton that evening. Calling Lagerfeld “Maestro” from backstage through a microphone to guests seated in the darkened room, he said the […]

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Top Posts-Editor’s selected Article

Apps of my life

By Anna Katina Hello my friends! First of all, thanks a lot for the feedback regarding my car:). For those who haven’t read the news, you can read it here. Today, I am sharing with you my favourite apps I use on my iphone. Since I received the new iPhone XS Max, I decided to […]

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She got her first car

By Anna Katina Hello my friends! The time has come… I talked a lot about it on Instagram, I asked your opinions, I made you guess the colour.. and today, the waiting is over.. today, ANNA GOT HER FIRST CAR. Some of you may know that it took me some time to get the driving […]

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Cuba 2018

By Anna Katina Peeeeeps! Hello! It’s Sunday, December 30th and I promised you to publish my trip to Cuba before 2019, so I will keep my promise!! 😀 Where should I start… Cuba was an amazing experience this Summer. I travelled a lot this year but did not publish any travel posts… Shame on me. […]

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Christmas Gift Guide 2018

By Anna Katina Hello my friends! The waiting is over, my Christmas Gift Guide 2018 is live!! I worked two entire days on the photos after collecting all the gifts I wanted to feature. In my selection, I present classic presents but also less classic ones, amazing deals I found etc. For example I had […]

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Save the date! Troc’n’Brol 2018

By Anna Katina Yes, that’s my twin Xenia a few years ago with black, long hair!! 😀 TROC’N’BROL – an alternative Christmas market! It’s that time of the year again and I’m so excited!! December 14, I’m getting ready!! Every year, I participate to Troc’n’Brol. For me, it’s the coolest yearly event in Luxembourg! First, […]

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My skincare routine

By Anna Katina Dear friends, first of all – I can’t believe I did not blog since July. What the.. But I’m back and I will blog once a month at least from now because I missed this so much. So, after many request and questions about my skin I decided to write about all […]

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The late Karl Lagerfeld had a long-standing relationship with this publication. Here, some memorable quotes. 1969 “I don't like retrospectives, but the Twenties and Thirties were the last epoch near to us when things were still well made…when there was quality.” “I like it when people say I am French, but it would be presumptuous for me to say that I am.” 1975 “Overdressing is the greatest mistake. I design layers of clothes so that a woman can handle climate changes gracefully, so that she can add or subtract pieces depending on her whim or the weather, so that she can change her look without changing her entire outfit. My basic premise is to make fashion easier for a woman. Because a woman, especially one who is active and involved and for whom I especially enjoy designing, has to live with her clothes just as easily as she lives with her skin.” “My life is based on fantasy. I don't ask myself questions about what I do or what I am. I go by instinct. I follow my feelings.” “I hate too skinny. My dresses are not for very, very skinny people. There has to be a very feminine shape under them.” “I never fall in love. IFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More... [...]
As the 21st century dawned, Karl Lagerfeld — always one whose imagination knew no bounds — began to think even bigger at Chanel, at least when it came to his show sets. The venue was generally the Grand Palais with its 11-story glass cupola, while the set was always one to take guests' breaths away. From his most recent romp at the beach for the January couture show to full-sized rockets or cruise ships, an Eiffel Tower, a bar, a merry-go-round, a supermarket and even a giant Chanel jacket, Lagerfeld proved time and time again that he was not only a master designer, but a master showman as well. Here, a look at some of Lagerfeld's standout sets for Chanel over the years. Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More... [...]
LONDON — Female power and sexuality sparked the creativity of many of the emerging fashion names in London this season, who showcased their work at the British Fashion Council's Discovery Lab show space. Through immersive presentations, designers delivered different takes on femininity and conveyed powerful social statements with their fall collections. Central Saint Martins graduate Katie Ann McGuigan took the spotlight with her feminine reinterpretation of Japanese Bosozoku — or “Speed Tribe” — biker subculture, that resulted in a vibrant representation of a powerful underground girl gang. The designer looked at vintage imagery for inspiration, to channel the Bosozoku bikers' attitude into the collection. Katie Ann Mcguigan RTW Fall 2019 Courtesy Photo In particular, she injected the subculture's signature approach of customizing uniforms with slogans in her grungy lineup, layering prints and textures in the shades of lilac, mint, ochre, navy and jade. “Road Runner,” “Only Night Angels” and “Highway Danger” slogans appeared on hand-printed leather biker jackets, which were paired with pleated skirts, organza tie-dye pants, floaty tulle dresses and chunky knitwear. A different type of gang was on Natalie B. Coleman's mind when conceiving her “Sisters” collection. The concept was centered around the needling craft passed down from mothers to daughters, along with the knowledge aboutFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More... [...]
VOICES: In place of a runway show, or a typical salon-style format, designer Edeline Lee hosted a two-hour presentation at the BFC Show Space in London. More than 20 women were invited to share their experiences, present a reading or sing opera at the event as Lee said she wanted to provide a stage for women to be seen and heard. Each orator, who was dressed in black, was introduced by a model who wore one of Lee's latest designs for her fall 2019 show. The clothes were rich in color, there were jewel-toned dresses that gathered at the waist, and structured floral embellished coats and a sleeveless dress. These stood out against the black backdrop, while other dresses were more muted, including dresses such as a light orange parachute style and a fitted pale pink number. Lee kept to classic silhouettes using clean cuts and relaxed lines. Details such as ruffles, frills and buttons to the side enhanced her minimal collection. Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More... [...]
RE-USE, REDUCE: “Eco-centricity” was the buzzword at an event hosted by Matchesfashion.com during London Fashion Week to mark the launch of an exhibition, which runs until March 2, put together by creative director and TV personality Jaime Perlman, stylist Alex Carl and More or Less Magazine. The show, featuring work by 11 designers, was designed, according to Carl, as a “shout-out against this kind of urge for newness all the time. Everything goes so fast now and sometimes you need to look around you to find inspiration rather than look ahead.” The bespoke pieces proved that sustainable fashion can be vibrant and experimental. From Erdem's dazzling sequined trousers to Louise Grey's acid-toned patchwork creation and Simone Rocha's black lace dress with a doily bra, designers served up an assortment of color and dramatic forms, that captivated guests including Adwoa Aboah's parents, Camilla Lowther and Charles Aboah, Wilson Oryema and Henry Holland. The Turkish designer Dilara Findikoglu said the design process was an exciting journey of freedom and experimentation, “a chance to use old things that we kept. It was quite fun to make because I didn't have to think about it being sold. It was more of a creative process.” The intimate display highlights the changing conversation aroundFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More... [...]
LONDON — Burberry has unreservedly apologized for sending a sweater onto its fall 2019 runway that appears to have a noose around the neck. Both Marco Gobbetti, the brand's chief executive officer, and Riccardo Tisci, the brand's chief creative officer, expressed regret at what they referred to as a genuine mistake. On Sunday night, following the Burberry show, model Liz Kennedy criticized the brand on Instagram for sending out a brown hoodie that appeared to feature a noose. The item, which had the image of a sailor's rope, in tune with the “Tempest” theme of the show, has since been removed from the collection. “Suicide is not fashion,” the model wrote in the caption. “Riccardo Tisci and everyone at Burberry, it is beyond me how you could let a look resembling a noose hanging from a neck out on the runway. How could anyone overlook this and think it would be OK to do this, especially in a line dedicated to young girls and youth.” View this post on Instagram @burberry @riccardotisci17 Suicide is not fashion. It is not glamorous nor edgy and since this show is dedicated to the youth expressing their voice, here I go. Riccardo Tisci andFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More... [...]
PARIS — Sustainability and the ongoing crossover between fashion and sport were key focuses at the just-wrapped Première Vision Paris and Texworld fabric fairs here. Brexit jitters could already be felt at Première Vision Paris, which saw a 16 percent dip in British visitors, leading to a slight decrease in total traffic year-over-year to 53,156 versus 54,413 in 2018. Conversely, the number of Asian visitors was up 8 percent, boosted by an increase in Chinese buyers, with U.S. visitors up 6 percent, the organizers said. Première Vision managing director Gilles Lasbordes was satisfied with the overall “solid” turnout given the challenging context. The show's bustling trend areas and seminars for him indicated a desire from brands to “go back to their DNA, which is being creative.” Upcoming projects by the fair include a partnership with the French Leather Council on a Sustainable Leather Forum that will open on Sept. 16 at La Maison des Travaux Publics in central Paris, a day before the kickoff of Première Vision's September edition. The forum will also be present at Première Vision's Smart Square section dedicated to sustainable innovations. Several exhibitors at Première Vision cited bubbling demand for performance fabrics for urban collections geared at the travel andFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More... [...]
PARIS — On the sidelines of the recently wrapped Première Vision Paris textiles fair, a group of experts from the denim world gathered for a panel hosted by leading Turkish denim mill Isko on the “Unlimited Possibilities of Responsible Denim.” Ebru Ozkucuk Guler, CSR executive at Isko; Miles Johnson, a designer at Stan Ray denim who has worked at companies including Patagonia and Levi Strauss & Co.; Rachel Pearce director of denim consultancy Denimhand, and François Girbaud hashed out the topic. Isko's sustainable denim panel in Paris. Courtesy Girbaud, who at the intimate event also presented his third sustainable denim Eyether capsule for Isko, said he'd experienced an epiphany about the harm denim was doing to the planet after the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989, when he saw “all these people from the communist countries arriving in acid wash jeans.” Among the takeaways, for Johnson, who sees food industry trends as “a good indicator for where the clothing industry is headed,” the way forward for any company looking to become more sustainably conscious is transparency. “They just need to open their doors and their information up, and naturally what happens is people start to clean up their act. Because the consumer now startsFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More... [...]
PARIS – Paying tribute to “a prolific creative mind with endless imagination,” the house of Chanel on Tuesday confirmed “with deep sadness” the passing of its longtime creative director Karl Lagerfeld and said his longtime right-hand woman Virginie Viard would succeed him. “Virginie Viard, director of Chanel's fashion creation studio and Karl Lagerfeld's closest collaborator for more than 30 years, has been entrusted by [Chanel chief executive officer] Alain Wertheimer with the creative work for the collections, so that the legacy of Gabrielle Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld can live on,” the house said. Lagerfeld boasted that his contract with Chanel was one page long, emblematic of his close ties to the owners of the privately held firm. Lagerfeld claimed to never schedule meetings with the Wertheimers, or even talk that much about business, although the brothers Alain and Gerard were often at his elbow in his studio at the Rue Cambon, or chatting with him backstage before a fashion show. He also forged close ties with Paris-based managers Francoise Montenay, who retired from an operational role in 2007, and Bruno Pavlovsky, president of Chanel fashion. Lagerfeld said four people ran Chanel's giant fashion franchise: himself, Pavlovsky, Viard and image director Eric Pfrunder. “We don'tFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More... [...]
PARIS — Tributes from leading fashion personalities poured in after the death of Karl Lagerfeld in Paris at the age of 85. Alain Wertheimer, chief executive officer, Chanel: “Thanks to his creative genius, generosity and exceptional intuition, Karl Lagerfeld was ahead of his time, which widely contributed to the house of Chanel's success throughout the world. Today, not only have I lost a friend, but we have all lost an extraordinary creative mind to whom I gave carte blanche in the early 1980s to reinvent the brand.” Bruno Pavlovsky, president of fashion, Chanel: “Fashion show after fashion show, collection after collection, Karl Lagerfeld left his mark on the legend of Gabrielle Chanel and the history of the house of Chanel. He steadfastly promoted the talent and expertise of Chanel's ateliers and Métiers d'Art, allowing this exceptional knowhow to shine throughout the world. The greatest tribute we can pay today is to continue to follow the path he traced by – to quote Karl – ‘continuing to embrace the present and invent the future'.” Bernard Arnault, chairman and ceo, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton: “With the passing of Karl Lagerfeld we have lost a creative genius who helped to make Paris the fashion capital of the worldFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More... [...]
PARIS – Karl Lagerfeld, one of the most prolific, admired and multi-talented fashion figures of the modern age, has died in Paris, the house of Chanel said on Tuesday. Lagerfeld worked tirelessly until the end, giving instructions to his teams for the Fendi fall ready-to-wear collection, due to take place in Milan on Thursday. The only sign of his declining health was his failure to take a bow at Chanel's recent couture show in January. He was most closely associated with the French fashion house, where he was couturier since 1983, engineering one of the modern fashion industry's first and most successful brand rejuvenations and propelling the fabled French name from near obscurity to the summit of international luxury. Lagerfeld was also the creative force behind the furs and ready-to-wear at Fendi for more than half a century, as well as his signature fashion house which — although it encompassed everything from designer rtw to jeans and fragrance over the years —rarely approached the heights of the other brands Lagerfeld touched, which included Chloé from the Sixties into the Nineties. “It is with deep sadness that the house of Chanel announces the passing of Karl Lagerfeld,” Chanel said in a statement, without providing additionalFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More... [...]
MILAN — Elite World will in May launch a fashion division and a brand of urban streetwear pieces inspired by the “model-off-duty” and called E.1972. This is a nod to Elite's history, as the company was founded in 1972. The line will be designed by Elite World chief creative officer and board member Julia Haart, who was previously creative director of La Perla from 2016 until last year, when the Italian innerwear brand was sold to Amsterdam-based private equity firm Sapinda Holding from entrepreneur Silvio Scaglia. Haart also founded her namesake brand in 2013, which she closed when she joined La Perla. “We have an opportunity to bring the model universe to a consumer anywhere in the world,” said Haart of the collection, which is conceived to combine comfort and fashion. “We can offer a glimpse into the lives of our talent and create a collection that is cool, underground, innovative and aspirational.” The designer said the brand's central message will be “Be your own icon.” Kendall Jenner, Adriana Lima, Irina Shayk, Winne Harlow and Behati Prinsloo are only some of the models under the Elite World's umbrella. It is the world's largest international network of model management agencies including Elite worldwide, Women Model Management, The Society,Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More... [...]
MILAN — Jean-Charles de Castelbajac may very well be the only designer that dressed a saint. Pope John Paul II in 1997 wore a rainbow-striped cassock for World Youth Day designed by de Castelbajac, who also created equally colorful liturgical vestments and T-shirts for 5,500 members of the Catholic church and young kids attending the event. “That experience changed my life — color as the cement of faith, of hope and democracy,” said de Castelbajac on Monday at the United Colors of Benetton showroom in Milan, ahead of the brand's first runway show to be held in the city this evening, which he called “Rainbow Machine.” “I chose this name because I never saw such collective strength, or the equal to Benetton's expertise and power to create color,” said the designer who, together with executive president Luciano Benetton, is set on bringing back color to the brand — and returning it to its original success. “Colors can make miracles,” said Benetton, with a twinkle in his light blue eyes and a tongue-in-cheek reference to the religious theme. In October, de Castelbajac was named Benetton's first artistic director. De Castelbajac, who is in charge of the men's and women's collections for the brand, launched his brandFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More... [...]
LOS ANGELES — Some precipitation did little to tamper with the inaugural edition of Frieze Los Angeles, an event that signaled the maturation of the market's creative class. The contemporary art fair capped its three-day official run Sunday at Paramount Pictures Studios, drawing thousands of attendees, generating millions of dollars in sales and helping further hone the city's growing clout when it comes to its community of artists, however one defines that last point. “It's really going to hopefully become a mark on the annual calendar for Los Angeles as an arts destination, which we never really had,” artist Alex Israel said of Frieze. “Hopefully this will continue to reaffirm this growing consensus that Los Angeles is a major international art destination and that the most exciting things happening in the world creatively happen here.” Star power always helps sell with the likes of Brad Pitt and Sylvester Stallone spotted Thursday. Gwyneth Paltrow breezed through the entrance Sunday afternoon, with Kanye West walking toward the gallery tents later that same day, an assistant filming his trek, complete with cell phone harnessed in a stabilizer. “Los Angeles is coming into its own, certainly culturally,” said Katherine Ross, a former executive in communications and public relationsFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More... [...]
TAKE FIVE: New York-based Korean fashion designer Ji Won Choi is the latest emerging talent Adidas Original tapped to design a capsule women's ready-to-wear collection. “The idea was to take the very classic Adidas tracksuits and reinterpret it with my aesthetic in five different ways. I took the very iconic Adidas stripes and repeated it everywhere to create a consistent and cohesive visual language and merge it with the sportiness and playfulness of the brand,” Choi explained during the presentation. The clothes were shown in a huge basement near Camden market during London Fashion Week. A colorful 3D maze was built and models walked up and down on interconnected staircases as in an infinite loop. Alex Weiland, the director of special projects at Adidas who discovered Choi on Instagram, said it's “important for us to give a new platform for young designers. London has such an appetite for emerging design talents. So we decide to take her here.” She said the first drop is slated for Feb. 23 Feb at retailers including Kith, Dover Street Market and Barneys New York. A second drop in a black and white color way will happen in May. Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More... [...]
WINNERS' CIRCLE: South African women's wear designer Thebe Magugu, 26, won the overall award for curation and fashion content at the International Fashion Showcase, 2019 edition. Duran Lantink, 33, from the Netherlands and Cedric Mizero, 26, from Rwanda were awarded special mentions for collection and curation respectively. Supported by the British Council, the British Fashion Council, London College of Fashion, UAL and Somerset House, the lFS nurtures and presents work from the best emerging fashion designers around the world. A panel of fashion experts chaired by Sarah Mower, BFC Ambassador for Emerging Talent, selected the winners. “I'd like to base my business in Johannesburg, but I certainly want to grow my brand internationally,” Magugu said after the ceremony. His brand is currently stocked in two designer boutiques in South Africa and one in Lyon, France. This year, 16 designers with different backgrounds and nationalities participated in the exhibition titled “Brave New Worlds: The Changing Landscape of Fashion.” The designers explored politics, sustainability, identity and heritage and displayed their latest designs in immersive environments. Held at the Somerset House, the free exhibition runs through Feb. 24. Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More... [...]
LIGHT AT THE END OF THE TUNNEL: Anya Hindmarch managed to get fashion editors to kick off their heels and happily slip on a shapeless blue coverall in the heart of Soho at her immersive installation dubbed “The Weave Project.” The installation, which runs until Tuesday, is inspired by Hindmarch's newly launched Neeson bag, a woven tote bag. Taking place in the Brewer Street car park, visitors are ushered into an airy room upon entry and greeted by bright blue intricately woven mesh tunnels that snake around, and up from the floor to the ceiling. “‘The Weave Project' is a completely immersive and playful installation that you can experience from inside out. We like to take our customers on the journey behind the inspiration for our collection, in this case The Neeson,” said Hindmarch. Visitors eagerly jumped into the mouth of the tunnel, climbed through the blue netting and took pictures of themselves navigating the maze. Others lined up for the colorful baked goods such as heart shaped cookies, macaroons and donuts with weave-themed icing. In the room next door, the Neeson bag was presented in varying sizes and rainbow color – electric blue, bright red and lemon yellow — lined up on white plinths. OnFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More... [...]
LONDON — Mother of Pearl creative director Amy Powney wants to see the fashion industry modernize itself, and is taking the lead in a heated industry conversation: Sustainability. For more than four years she has been working towards making every step of the Mother of Pearl supply chain more sustainable, from ensuring that cotton suppliers do not use pesticides during the farming process, to keeping production local in a bid to reduce a garment's carbon footprint. Powney is now ready to start sharing some of her findings with the rest of the industry, starting with a panel discussion to be held Saturday in association with the British Fashion Council, and broadcast by BBC Earth. “All of the work that we have been doing around sustainability is not just about changing our own brand, it's about helping or inspiring others to change theirs, too. Mother of Pearl is a drop in the ocean. Our brand alone can't change the way the industry operates, but if we all come together then we can have a bigger impact,” said Powney. Her ultimate goal is to achieve a gold standard for production, having taken a “360-degree view” around sustainability. “When you use the term ‘sustainability,' I don't think youFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More... [...]
The New York backlot at Paramount Studios was crawling with Los Angeles gallery-goers on Thursday when the inaugural Frieze L.A. art fair opened with 70 booths in a Kulapat Yantrasast-designed tent, a temporary Matchesfashion.com town house, a re-creation of the infamous club Max's Kansas City and more. Hopes for the perfect SoCal winter day were dashed by rain, which left visitors to brave the elements in oversize trenchcoats, iridescent or punk rock jackets and allover print suits worthy of an artist's canvas. Bold strokes of red made a lasting impression, as did Gucci belt bags — but the ultimate accessory was an umbrella. Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More... [...]
MILAN — Gucci is making good on its promise — and acting quickly. The Italian luxury company revealed Friday the first four long-term initiatives to achieve cultural diversity and awareness throughout its organization and activities globally, following accusations last week that a Gucci balaclava-style sweater evoked blackface. The first four initiatives are: • Hiring global and regional directors for diversity and inclusion; • Setting up a multicultural design scholarship program; • Launching a diversity and inclusivity awareness program; • Launching a global exchange program. Gucci is pledging to hire diverse talent within key functions and leadership positions of the group, including the design office, and will invest in educating all of its 18,000 employees around the world “to achieve a much higher level of global cultural awareness.” President and chief executive officer Marco Bizzarri said Gucci accepted “full accountability for this incident, which has clearly exposed shortfalls in our ongoing strategic approach to embedding diversity and inclusion in both our organization and in our activities.” In an interview with WWD earlier this week, Bizzarri pointed to “ignorance of this matter. Certainly, it was not intentional but this is not an excuse.” A “thorough review of the circumstances that led to this” followed, said Bizzarri on Friday, explaining that he hadFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More... [...]
Brothers David and Mike Appel thought they could fill a white space in the men's and women's underwear and sock category when they launched Related Garments in 2015, which sold matching socks and underwear packaged together. But David said since competitors have copied the concept, Related Garments, which has collaborated with Baja East and Luka Sabbat on capsules, is having to pivot in order to stand out. “Our shift has been in letting customers choose what they want and give them more options,” said Appel. “I don't have the same marketing budget as Calvin Klein, so we've been really trying to figure out how you compete with brands that are spending that much money.” Related Garments now allows customers to purchase socks and underwear à la carte, but it is also introducing new categories over the course of the year. First up is R-Squared, a line of ath-leisure dress socks and underwear that can be worn to the office and the gym. They are made with fabrics featuring anti-odor and Coolmax properties and include extra cushioning for toes and heels. The underwear is made from a nylon spandex blend that David said looks like designer underwear but is still suitable for working out.Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More... [...]
PARIS — John Galliano and Nick Knight are rekindling their decades-long creative partnership with a new short film for Maison Margiela showcasing its pillow-shaped Glam Slam bag. The result is no ordinary handbag campaign: The collaboration with Knight's Showstudio has resulted in a 360-degree film shot in negative image that will be screened on Saturday and Sunday at the Serpentine Gallery in London. Even the standard two-dimensional version ranks as an immersive experience, consisting of footage drenched in psychedelic hues of model Duckie Thot in a series of science fiction-inspired sets. A soundtrack by DJ Jeremy Healy, another longtime Galliano collaborator, features lyrics from Roy Orbison's “In Dreams.” “John and I have had an artistic relationship, a shared admiration, a love for each other, which has gone on for over 30 years,” Knight told WWD in an interview, noting that he first met the designer on a photo shoot for i-D magazine in 1985 and has created campaigns and editorial images with him ever since. “When we went through the Dior years together, I was there for 10 years with him and since then, I've been waiting for a way to come back and work with John again. His directorship of Margiela became aFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More... [...]
LONDON — Meteoric success stories have always abounded in London. It usually starts with a young designer, fresh out of Central Saint Martins, christened a genius by the media and members of the industry. Said “genius” rises to fame in a hot minute with early-stage financial support, glossy features, celebrity requests and retail interest flooding in. More often than not, the star fades, the media moves on, the designer doesn't have the logistical capabilities to keep up with production demands, cash flow becomes a problem and the business folds. Plus, there's another hot young thing to be hyped. It has been the arc of British fashion for decades — boom, then bust. But not all success stories have ended with a flameout — or a big creative director's job at Kering or LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. Indeed, there are designers in London who have persisted both on the business and creative ends, and chosen to pursue gradual growth, even if they're not at the center of the industry buzz. As London Fashion Week begins today — amid immense political and economic uncertainty over Brexit — this season is, in a way, about just getting on with it and surviving in that typically British stiff-upper-lippedFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More... [...]
LONDON — Fifty years on, and the colors only get brighter and more saturated in the realm of Dame Zandra Rhodes, the designer with magenta hair, bubblegum pink Crocs and a bowl of rose-colored chocolate truffles at her elbow on a dark winter's afternoon. Sitting on a pink chair in the penthouse apartment above her studio, Rhodes is surrounded by a kaleidoscope of color, texture and pattern. There are racks of caftans, dresses and scarves done in her bright, nature-inspired abstract patterns, pottery and ceramics from British artists Carol McNicoll and Kate Malone and green plants galore. Rhodes' commitment to design — and a rainbow world — has only intensified over the past five decades, and she continues to be an evangelist for color. She's recently returned from Formex, the Nordic interior design fair in Stockholm, where she blasted her stand with bright shades to replicate her multichromatic penthouse in London. “There is so much room for color in Scandinavia. My color, in fact, looked brighter over there,” said Rhodes, who was the guest influencer at the fair last month, the first big event in what will be a landmark 50th anniversary year. On Tuesday, Rhodes will present her fall 2019 collection at the Fashion and TextileFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More... [...]
LONDON — London-based Chinese designers are getting more attention than ever before due to China's rising fashion influence — and spending power. But even as their status in the industry grows, these designers remain caught between East and West and their businesses face multiple challenges. Xiao Li, Steven Tai and Minki have all decided to take a break from the fall 2019 runway and recalibrate. Those who remain on the calendar — such as Jamie Wei Huang, Ryan Lo, Xu Zhi, Yuhan Wang and I Am Chen — are making changes to their brands in order to maintain growth in a difficult market. LVMH Prize nominee Xiao Li said she needs time to reshape her product development, bring back the innovative spirit and expand her studio in Qingdao, China. Known for innovative yarns and textures, the Royal College of Art alumna won the Loro Piana award for best knitwear collection and the International Talent Support Diesel Award with her graduate collection. Her brand is stocked in more than 30 stores worldwide, including Dover Street Market, Totokaelo and Lane Crawford. “For the last two years, we were constantly overloaded. Now I just want to focus on the product development and to slow down so that I canFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More... [...]
New York Fashion Week designers did the pivot. Collections introduced during the recent fall 2019 season that ended Wednesday had a more minimal and less embellished approach that some retail observers attributed to the desire for peace and quiet amid the chaos of life's challenges and cacophony of social media. “Reality,” “grounded,” “effortless” and “luxe” were some of the words used to describe the looks, which were, at their best, wrought from luxury fibers and rendered in monochromatic colors. “There's a real sobriety to how fashion looks right now,” said Ken Downing, fashion director and senior vice president of Neiman Marcus. “We want this calm period in our wardrobes. There's global chaos and so much going on. It's a real moment of individuality, allowing the wearer to be the star. Who you are is more important than the label you're wearing.” For retailers who've been bemoaning the casualization of fashion, designers for fall offered polished head-to-toe looks replete with boots and handbags — ca-ching! “The week's collections seemed to be both forward-looking and nostalgic, which is a good mix at retail,” said Linda Fargo, senior vice president of the fashion office and director of women's fashion and store presentation at Bergdorf Goodman, who describedFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More... [...]
LONDON — One of fashion's great storytellers and conceptual creators, Hussein Chalayan has always tried to link his designs to history, art, architecture, technology, and popular culture. He was the man who created the telescopic coffee table skirt and the video dress, the one who sent wired, self-transforming creations down the runway. When he's not working with wires or wood or LED lights, he's thinking about history and the human experience. His 2019 resort collection was partly inspired by the myth of the Abduction of the Sabine Women, with the collars on suit jackets made to look as if someone had yanked them downward in a bid to make off with the wearer. Those designs showcased his cerebral leanings, as well as his virtuoso cutting and sculpting skills. Last year, he took on a minority investor, Centricus, and is brimming with plans, including the launch of a full accessories collection for fall 2019, a design project with the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and more retail stores and product categories. Here, the restless designer, who has also held lead creative roles at brands as diverse as Asprey, Puma, Vionnet and Tse Cashmere, looks back — and ahead to new adventures. WWD: How have you managed to last so longFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More... [...]
OPEN CALL: The founder of a little-known Houston-based modeling agency is trying to ensure that models are paid. Carnell Jones of Senoj Models started No Pay No Runway and is trying to recruit 100 ambassadors to support the cause. The group is trying to raise awareness about producers, “who put on fashion shows and are claiming that the money is going toward charity just to get the girls to work for free. In most cases, they are not being honest,” Jones said in a phone interview. “They are bringing in a great deal of money and they are telling the girls, ‘Well, hey, you're going to get great exposure.' These girls have been modeling for years now.” Jones said he is not working with the Mode Alliance, the New York-based advocacy group that champions models' rights. His focus is to ensure that models in different U.S. cities are paid for their runway work especially in relation to shows for charitable causes. Responsible for running the Houston-based modeling agency, he said he has seen firsthand models not get paid under similar circumstance. “A lot of them were forced to still do it because they needed the exposure. They would still participate, but inFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More... [...]
LONDON — Of the four major fashion capitals, London is best known for its creativity, avant-garde labels and experimental designs because of its influential fashion schools as well as Britain's indie spirit and centuries-long embrace of many cultures. At the same time, the city is rapidly becoming a hub for contemporary labels that describe themselves as “affordable luxury,” with prices starting at around 600 pounds for a dress — and an alternative to pricy designer fashion. 16Arlington, which launched two years ago, may be showing for the first time on-schedule at London Fashion Week, but it's far from a novice brand. Unlike many young designer businesses, it has already built a solid business foundation, with strong wholesale relationships and a production pipeline, with manufacturing done in the U.K. “We have a definitive design aesthetic, but we also want it to be pieces our friends would buy into while targeting a ‘cool-girl' look. We want it to be a very inclusive brand, and we're hoping that our price point helps us achieve that,” said founders and designers Federica Cavenati and Marco Capaldo. They added that a close relationship with their manufacturers helps them to keep prices in check. Their outfits, which have been photographed on a roster of celebrities including Edie Campbell,Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More... [...]
PARIS — The doors of Balmain's new Paris flagship officially swing open today, cementing the template introduced in the house's recently opened Milan flagship for a new brick-and-mortar concept for the company. A select group of editors got a preview of the store, located on Rue Saint-Honoré, one of Paris' hottest and most exclusive retail arteries, for the staging of the house's inaugural couture show under creative director Olivier Rousteing in January, held on the site's ground floor. A cocktail party is planned for the day of the house's ready-to-wear show on March 1. Designed by Rousteing in collaboration with Studio AMV's Anna Philippou, Marie-Charlotte Prosperi-Fouchard and Victoire Guerlay, the two-story boutique — the brand's largest store, measuring a total of 6,845 square feet — was conceived as a series of rooms. Channeling a Parisian apartment, it opens with a library-inspired space featuring a parquet floor, towering mirrored columns and marble shelves stocked with women's bags. A small passage themed around a game room with a custom-made chandelier and game-table-inspired merchandising unit housing small accessories is flanked by a safe wall with jewelry displays. It leads to a lobby-style men's and women's footwear space, and beyond that an intimate cash desk area — ratherFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More... [...]