Shows

Koché RTW Spring 2019

At a time when the United Nations is meeting in New York, discord between nations has rarely appeared so high. Christelle Kocher has other ideas.
Her spring collection was an ode to unity, under the guise of a celebration of women worldwide. That could be a soignée Parisienne, strutting down Avenue Montaigne in a fuchsia blazer, or a young girl in Indonesia going out with friends in a sequined top and matching headscarf, paired with pleated track pants.
“It’s a homage to diversity, a rallying call in which fashion can be a good vector of unification,” Kocher said backstage after the show, held at the French Communist Party headquarters in Paris, a saucer-shaped building designed by Oscar Niemeyer in the Sixties.
Kocher has always connected with a more nuanced vision of Paris than most people who live here experience — the result of shuttling between her job as artistic director of Maison Lemarié, part of Chanel’s stable of specialty ateliers, and her own studio in the multiethnic neighborhood of Belleville in the northeast of Paris.
This season, she broadened that vision to places she has visited, and those she dreams of discovering. A black bodysuit was embroidered with silver sequins in geometric motifs inspired

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2019/paris/koche/review/

      

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Undercover RTW Spring 2019

Following on from his men’s show in June, themed around “new warrior” tribes, Jun Takahashi divided the hyper-playful collection — “The Seventh Sense” — into seven groups, each with their own universe.
The designer paid tribute to the work of British photographer Mick Rock, who documented David Bowie’s fifth studio album, “The Rise and Fall of Ziggy Stardust and the Spiders from Mars,” on a capsule of colorful basics embroidered with the singer’s face, including a bright pink-and-green Lurex sweater, and a black shirt with an allover print and star-shaped buttons, which will likely set the tills ringing.
An out-of-this-world group inspired by John Derian’s decoupage technique featured planet-print platforms and coats swirling with glow-in-the-dark planet motifs. More down to earth was the “otaku” geek-themed line centered on colorful knitwear and shirt hybrids and mesh blousons sporting transfers of cult Eighties manga hero, “Creamy Mami, the Magic Angel.”
Other highlights included the smocked bombers and girly dresses embroidered with pixelized hearts, and a wardrobe set for lovers of all things bright and chemical, including a high-shine plastic blue anorak and oversize yellow parka.

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2019/paris/undercover/review/

      

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Anrealage RTW Spring 2019

For a label aimed at breaking down the boundaries between real and unreal (that being the inspiration behind its unusual name), Kunihiko Morinaga’s Anrealage was true to its ethos this season. A believer in fashion tech if ever there was one, Morinaga played tricks with the mind, using photochromic fabrics that changed color as the models walked down the runway. Wasn’t that white dress almost black just a moment ago?
The chimeric effect would not necessarily have been easily readable had not Morinaga demonstrated backstage before the show, shining a torch on a white dress with geometric motifs sewn on by hand, turning parts of the futuristic fabric black as if scorched by the light, a trick that was also particularly effective on his macramé shift dresses.
The futuristic bent was contrasted with a strong focus on embellishment and craftsmanship. Boxy-yet-feminine dresses in a transparent fabric were adorned with hundreds of color-changing buttons, balls and studs. Elsewhere, standouts included a series of jackets with structured top parts — in denim or gabardine, for example — that poetically, gradually morphed into trapeze shapes in transparent polyester on their lower halves. Incongruous as this may sound, the effect was well orchestrated and decidedly less

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2019/paris/anrealage/review/

      

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Jour/Né Spring 2019

Léa Sebban and Jerry Journo had Ibiza — and the Spanish island’s iconic Mar y Sol café — in mind when designing their highly wearable spring collection full of elevated beachwear, long spaghetti-strap dresses and short combos of various lengths.
Models walked a red and orange runway whose undulations were echoed in some of the fabrics used, such as the printed long-sleeve shirt and trousers or the suit made of wavy eyelets.
There was a naughty-yet-nice attitude to this collection. For one look, a mint-green, two-piece satin swimsuit with high-waisted, frilly bottoms and ribbon looped around a model’s midriff was overlaid with an open printed Oxford shirt. In another, a cropped white sleeveless eyelet top was worn with a long side-slit tie-dyed skirt.
Colorful beaded accessories, like handbags, belts and a necklace, and summery prints — think fruits and veggies — helped inject even more zing into this spirited collection.

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2019/paris/journe/review/

      

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Ottolinger RTW Spring 2019

Cosima Gadient and Christa Bösch’s collections always trace back to their native Switzerland, utilizing its traditional lace, craftwork, even bucolic cowbells, yet taking them way out of their comfort zone in interesting ways.
For spring, they sent everything on a trip, perhaps psychedelic, emotional, or physical, maybe all of the above. The models were dressed in clothes indicating they had been through something. Their signature denim, with its warped seam work, was cut into an acid green cropped vest with curvy, homespun laces and worn with pants that had had a run-in with a blowtorch. Denim biker shorts and jackets were also burned and battered and knits came in angry, flame patterns. Then the look shifted from postapocalyptic to a happier new world with satin techno pieces, lace, gingham, Hawaiian florals and The New York Times logo that were cut up, reassembled and layered into do-it-yourself looks appropriate for an otherworldly rave.
The overall effect of the curving cutouts, ad-hoc layers and ample lace-up, strappy accents was improvisation, as if everything was made with whatever limited resources were lying around, but it belied some of the complexity and creativity of the collection.

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2019/paris/ottolinger/review/

      

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Afterhomework RTW Spring 2019

For Afterhomework’s first show on the official Paris schedule, design duo Pierre Kaczmarek and Elena Mottola reached out to accessories designer Isaac Reina to create the boxy leather bags that peppered the models’ looks.
“He works with Raf Simons for Calvin Klein,” Kaczmarek said backstage, visibly excited. “It was important to us to work with people like him, because we need their support and experience to grow. We’ve never been to fashion school.”
Billing themselves as the youngest designers on the fashion calendar, the duo presented grown-up versions of previous offerings in black, white and blue. Off-the-shoulder deconstructed shirts were paired with teeny skirts or stretch joggers; overalls were delivered in a wide-leg version, and ruched sleeves were added to a spaghetti-strap dress.
A pop of color was added by a red “Afterhomework Polo Club” sweater, an obvious nod to similar Ralph Lauren styles. An AHP logo was also spotted on a black towel thrown over shoulders, mimicking the font of the Calvin Klein logo.

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2019/paris/afterhomework/review/

      

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Afterhomework RTW Spring 2019

For Afterhomework’s first show on the official Paris schedule, design duo Pierre Kaczmarek and Elena Mottola reached out to accessories designer Isaac Reina to create the boxy leather bags that peppered the models’ looks.
“He works with Raf Simons for Calvin Klein,” Kaczmarek said backstage, visibly excited. “It was important to us to work with people like him, because we need their support and experience to grow. We’ve never been to fashion school.”
Billing themselves as the youngest designers on the fashion calendar, the duo presented grown-up versions of previous offerings in black, white and blue. Off-the-shoulder deconstructed shirts were paired with teeny skirts or stretch joggers; overalls were delivered in a wide-leg version, and ruched sleeves were added to a spaghetti-strap dress.
A pop of color was added by a red “Afterhomework Polo Club” sweater, an obvious nod to similar Ralph Lauren styles. An AHP logo was also spotted on a black towel thrown over shoulders, mimicking the font of the Calvin Klein logo.

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2019/paris/afterhomework/review/

      

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Gucci RTW Spring 2019

Do you ever long for the good old days in fashion? You know, when all a girl and boy had to do to get attention was carry their own heads in their hands? Life is more complicated now. Now, they create their own experimental theater, inspired by a grainy, creepy-chic silent film by Seventies’ experimental theater impresarios Leo de Berardinis and Perla Peragallo, about a girl with black eyes (smudged or punched?) who looks like a Gucci girl on a bad acid trip, and who freshens up with a splash of urinal water. Thus inspired, they create their own performance-art world populated by the likes of Janis Joplin and a boy in a jeweled cod piece. They dress with wanton disregard for convention, some geek-chic-faux-plain, others, as if they got dressed in the dark in a crazy-ass vintage store that just received a costume shipment from w-a-a-a-a-y off Broadway, spliced with Goodwill items chosen for their ironic potential. And then this girl and boy throw a party for like-minded types, and Jane Birkin wanders into the middle of it and sings like an angel with a past. And, oh, yes, there’s Mickey Mouse (as a handbag) and Dolly Parton (on

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2019/paris/gucci/review/

      

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Alexis Mabille RTW Spring 2019

Alexis Mabille ventured into new territory this season — tiptoed, rather — offering a few pieces in black.
“I usually work with midnight blue, but this time I felt like adding black — but always with bold colors,” he was quick to note. The black clothing served as an accent to the collection, he suggested, pointing to a few items tucked in front of a ground-sweeping dress in bright yellow.
One of the rare black pieces was an off-the-shoulder shirtdress, cinched at the waist, in an airy satin organza, its puffed out sleeves an elegant nod to his couture roots.
It is becoming a tradition for Mabille to present his ready-to-wear collection in an intimate, by-appointment setting — part of his project of refocusing the collections around high-end daywear while pre-collections move further into dressier, evening territory.
Ever playful, Mabille tooled around with materials, making two vastly different dresses using the same pattern. Here was a light, airy day dress in striped blue cotton poplin; suddenly, in a silky satin in midnight blue with back lace trim, it took on a sultry tone for evening. There were quite a few of these silky, lacy numbers, peeking out from the more regal, sculptured pieces.
The designer

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2019/paris/alexis-mabille-collection/review/

      

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Dior RTW Spring 2019

Guests arriving to the venue — the storybook magical grounds of the Longchamp racetrack — came upon a huge, minimalist square construction. Its facade flaunted woman-power signage of the sort that has become a Maria Grazia Chiuri signature at Dior. This time the quotes were from renegade choreographers, among them Pina Bausch (“Dance, Dance, Otherwise We Are Lost”) and Sharon Eyal (“The Story Comes From Inside the Body”).
Point made: This collection would be about dance, a natural topic for fashion and one which many designers have mined. “Dance and fashion define the body and, through discipline, teach us to own it,” read the show notes.
To manifest the connection, Chiuri commissioned a compelling new work from Eyal, whose dancers opened the show and performed throughout. Exquisite. And also problematic, at least if you’re a dress that wants to be noticed. Over the years, fashion has seen some seriously theatrical presentations. But when the Instagram-worthy theatrics, whether impending shark attack or bodies in remarkable motion, are separate and apart from the clothes, they can distract from what’s supposed to be the event’s primary purpose. That’s what happened here. (It didn’t help that the dancers were better-lit than the models.)
As for the clothes, this

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2019/paris/christian-dior/review/

      

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Jacquemus RTW Spring 2019

Simon Porte Jacquemus’ spring collection was titled La Riviera, but Sex on the Beach would’ve done, too. His sun-drenched childhood memories from the south of France often color his collections, and what an imagination he had as a kid. “I see myself back then, when I was little, I was already trying to visualize her,” his show notes explained. “It’s a bit cliché, I know, but she was going to the casino on the seashore, she was dancing and drinking cocktails.”
A classy gal? Not necessarily. But definitely up for a good time. Porte Jacquemus pursued the same super-French brand of beachside come-hither style that he’s been on for the past few seasons. His sweet spot has been at the intersection of sophisticated and hedonistic, but for spring he tipped the balance in the favor of the latter. The collection was for women who are captivatingly secure in their tackiness.
Held in the garden of the Italian embassy in Paris — because there’s an Italian Riviera, too — the show featured a runway raised to eye level. The front row got a good look at more than the clothes as the models walked by in stilettos that laced up their ankles, carrying

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2019/paris/jacquemus/review/

      

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Antonio Berardi RTW Spring 2019

Antonio Berardi decided to pay homage to the woman who has helped build his brand and channel his creativity: Sophia Neophitou-Apostolou, known for her killer heels, uproarious laugh, and far-flung fashion projects — including her magazine 10.
Instead of unveiling his spring lineup with a runway show or a presentation, he created a photo gallery of several women, including Neophitou-Apostolou herself, Net-a-porter president Alison Loehnis, Jimmy Choo creative director Sandra Choi and Italian fashion editor Anna Dello Russo, who personally picked their favorite looks from the collection and posed for the camera.
This format definitely exalted the versatility of the lineup, which this season included a range of revamped styles and themes from Berardi’s past.
The designer kept his constructions a bit simpler and softer. Kimono jackets, still enriched with Berardi’s couture-like techniques, were designed to gently wrap the body, while maxi multi-layered dresses were splashed with fresh floral patterns. Toile de jouy, used for asymmetric dresses and feminine blouses, portrayed gender-fluid scenes, while a magnified lace pattern, inspired by the British Pearly Kings and Queens tradition, gave a graphic, tribal feel to dresses with drawstring sleeves.

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2019/milan/antonio-berardi/review/

      

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Giuliva Heritage Collection RTW Spring 2019

The traditional suit may be fading into the history books, but tailoring is thriving at Giuliva, where married founders Gerardo Cavaliere and Margherita Cardelli have lent their skills and style to a women’s collection, which for spring was packed with coat-dresses, trenches and wide-lapel jackets with a Seventies feel and a Neapolitan touch.
Giuliva’s outdoor presentation in a vast private garden off Corso Magenta was one of the week’s sweetest events, with the linen, cotton and alpaca pieces hanging artfully from the branches of trees and blowing in the breeze of a warm day.
Matchesfashion.com, which has just begun carrying the year-old brand, co-hosted the event with Giuliva at La Vigna di Leonardo. Highlights included a blue linen coat-dress lined with men’s shirting fabric, a white one with a shawl collar, an unlined trench and a white eyelet dress with long sleeves. The list goes on.
There was also tailored, lightweight denim and a special collaboration with Superga using the fabrics from the collection for sneakers. It was the only nod to streetwear. The two have also created a capsule of velvet jackets and formal trousers for Matchesfashion.com, which is set to land in time for the holidays.
The stylish couple — Cavaliere is the founder

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2019/milan/giuliva-heritage-collection/review/

      

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Manuel Facchini RTW Spring 2019

Manuel Facchini’s signature gothic and rock ‘n’ roll vibes took on a military feel for spring. The traditional epaulettes of army jackets, which got a glamorous makeover via sparkling accents, decorated a long wrap dress, an asymmetric jacket with cutouts on the sleeves, as well as a shirtdress/bomber jacket hybrid.
While the skin-tight leather pants and the biker jackets interwoven with vinyl felt a bit rigid, embroidered dresses with ergonomic cuts and sheer inserts offered a more wearable version of the brand’s futuristic femininity.

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2019/milan/manuel-facchini/review/

      

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Albino Teodoro RTW Spring 2019

Albino Teodoro’s spring mood board was filled with images by Viviane Sassen and featuring a range of African and African-American women. Their bold look and proud attitude inspired the designer’s spring collection, which exuded modern elegance.
Playing with sumptuous silhouettes, Teodoro designed gowns and tops crafted from a range of fabrics spanning from a technical cotton poplin to silk faille and more lightweight silk voile, added draped, knotted details at the bodice. The roomy shirtdresses were punctuated by asymmetric ruffles, while a gown was embellished by a charming jacquard forest motif.
The concise lineup and restrained color palette — neutrals juxtaposed with lively purple and red shades — included chic ballerina-inspired frocks and silk jacquard jackets.

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2019/milan/albino/review/

      

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Winonah RTW Spring 2019

Like many designers and brands this season, Winonah de Jong gave in to her wanderlust, and took a trip — a safari to be precise. She sent out a glamorous — and travel-friendly — collection that was full of easy, classic pieces including cotton blouses, jumpsuits and safari jackets. De Jong put her personal spin on the trench, slipping a belt on the inside so that the coat could be cinched and still remain drapey at the front. A cinnamon cotton safari suit came with an elastic nipped waist and a midi skirt, while a jumpsuit in a similar shade was belted at the waist.
A camouflage print crept over long and languid trousers, a jumpsuit and a skinny minidress with long sleeves and built-up shoulders — a Winonah signature. Other summer-ready looks included a pink cotton dress with ruffle sleeves that gathered at the elbow, and a similar style done in white with embroidered black animal shapes hand-drawn by de Jong. Those black-on-white, naif drawings were a highlight of the collection, with a menagerie of African beasts striding across pieces including a ruffle-front skirt, high-waist trousers and a blouse with puff sleeves.

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2019/milan/winonah/review/

      

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A. F. Vandervost RTW Spring 2019

Belgian designers An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx celebrated their 20th wedding anniversary on the catwalk as the milestone inspired their brand A.F. Vandevorst with a series of looks reminiscent of the ethereal wedding dress tradition.
”After our very first collection, Filip proposed and asked me to marry him — 20 years ago,” Vandevorst told WWD. “And as our private life is always mixed with our work,” this was the best way to celebrate their anniversary, she concluded. The designers gave new life to fabrics taken from real vintage dresses, mixing them with other materials ranging from silk satin to wool and crispy cotton poplins.
White was obviously the key color, sometimes mixed with black.
A young bride with a light veil covering her face and a cross embroidered over that veil marking her eyes and her nose stood out on the catwalk. Another model wore a white mask, preciously embroidered, while another one walked in a long skirt, her chest covered only by a big fresh bouquet of flowers. The wedding looks included black jackets, trawl dresses and oversize hoodies, all finely embroidered or printed. The collection was balanced with a few sartorial looks, such as the pantsuit featuring a double-breasted cropped and

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2019/milan/af-vandevorst/review/

      

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Piazza Sempione RTW Spring 2019

Designers Stefano Citron and Federico Piaggi upped their game for spring, sending out a crisp, mostly cotton collection that was packed with simple, tailored shapes bound to flatter a variety of figures. They dipped skirts and tops in tie-dye, covered a trouser suit in a chalk print and jazzed up white poplin blouses with feather-light, laser-cut panels. There were shirtdresses for day, and a black viscose, linen and lace dress for evening. Among the chicest pieces was a mustard three-button cotton topcoat and a white caban in washed cotton.
In a bid to honor the past, Piazza Sempione also hired a group of female photographers to snap pieces from the spring collection any way they wanted. The only condition was that they shoot in Milan’s Piazza Sempione, where the business began in the early Nineties. The brand is also putting a greater focus on its digital communications and is rapidly building its business in the U.S., its largest market, which generates 50 percent of sales. The brand is set to open more doors soon at Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus.

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2019/milan/piazza-sempione/review/

      

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Bally RTW Spring 2019

Bally is leveraging its formidable past as a boot and shoemaker and its logo-filled archive to great effect, turning out capsule ready-to-wear collections and putting the focus on men’s and women’s bags, footwear and other accessories. Over the past few seasons, the company has been gaining steam, with a new owner in the Chinese giant Shandong Ruyi, double hubs in Milan and Caslano, Switzerland, a new worldwide eyewear deal with Marcolin along with a steady rollout of stores.
A few days ago, the brand raised a hoarding over the retail space that will soon be Bally’s new Milan store, on the corner of Via Montenapoleone and Via Manzoni, formerly home to Vertu. The three-floor space spans 6,000 square feet and will come on the heels of an opening at China World in Beijing.
The men’s and women’s clothing and accessories collections presented at Bally’s Milan showroom were designed by the in-house team and inspired by the idea of wanderlust. Clothing was inspired by vintage stores and flea market finds, with fuzzy teddy bear jackets and shearling coats and bright, color-block knit tops with a “B” for Bally on the zip pull. Leather coats came with papery or plastic-y finishes, while a gray

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2019/milan/bally/review/

      

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Fay RTW Spring 2019

The inspiration for Arthur Arbesser’s spring collection for Fay was pretty obvious from the presentation set: a picturesque, but not particularly summery, beach scene complete with sand, lifeguard stands and a striped lighthouse in front of a gloomy sky backdrop. He drew on Sylt, an island off Germany in the North Sea, to come up with riffs on classic workwear-inspired outerwear and rain gear for men and women. It was a nice update on tradition — not too far afield from the brand’s signatures, including the 4 Hook jacket, without being boring.
Arbesser recast classic trench coats, workwear vests, and raincoats in soft colors, adding yellow, cyan, pale blue and silver to the mix of neutrals. He also employed clever takes on marine stripes as the main decorative effect on jackets and pants. They came bleached on denim, printed or laminated on canvas, and done in multiple colors or transparent on nylon.

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Via:: https://wwd.com/runway/spring-2019/milan/fay/review/

      

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