Mens

The Rebranding of Preppy

One sunny afternoon a gentleman in his late 40s walked into Rowing Blazers‘ New York pop-up on Rivington Street. He asked the brand’s founder, Jack Carlson, to join him next door for ice cream at Morgenstern’s, where he proceeded to offer Carlson unsolicited advice about his line. The man was a Princeton graduate, preppy and pleased with the brightly colored rowing blazers and rugby shirts Carlson designed, but didn’t like the T-shirts he created with Joe’s Pizza.
“He said something like, ‘They have no place in the brand,’” recalled Carlson, who is 31. “I was polite, but in my mind I was thinking it’s my brand and if I think it’s cool, then it makes sense. There are people who don’t quite get it, but you never hear any of these comments from younger people.”
Carlson, who started Rowing Blazers in 2017, can easily be described as preppy. He grew up in Boston and London, attended Georgetown University, studied archaeology at Oxford University and was on the U.S. rowing team. But he stays away from using what he calls the “p” word in relation to his line because of its connotations, which Carlson believes are stuffy and dated. With his collection, which

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Movers and Shakers in the Men’s E-commerce Space

Don’t tell these companies that men don’t shop online.
There are now a slew of men’s wear-focused e-tailers offering everything from designer clothing to socks, underwear to streetwear. While some of these businesses have become household names and others are still flying under the radar, all of them have managed to make their mark. They’ve also attracted some big bucks from outside investors, a key indicator that they’re doing something right.
Here, a closer look at some of the major players and their businesses.
Black Tux
Primary business: Tuxedo and suit rentals
Backstory: The Los Angeles-based company was founded in 2013 by longtime friends Andrew Blackmon and Patrick Coyne, who saw an opportunity to improve the traditional tuxedo and suit rental process. Often referred to as the Rent the Runway for guys, the Black Tux has raised $60 million in funding since it started, the most recent round coming in March when TZP Group — along with Stripes Group, Menlo Ventures and Raine Ventures — came through with $30 million the company said it would use to add more warehouse space. A facility opened in Pennsylvania earlier this year.
Reach: In addition to its own e-commerce site and six of its own showrooms, the company

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Randa Raises Offer, Perry Ellis Agrees to Talk

The market is apparently expecting a bidding war to break out in the quest to acquire Perry Ellis International.
Shortly after Randa Accessories raised its offer to acquire the firm for $28.90 a share on Friday morning, shares jumped nearly 5 percent and were trading on the Nasdaq above the offer price, or over $29.10.
Early Friday, the special committee of the Perry Ellis’s board of directors said it received a “revised, non-binding, unsolicited proposal” from Randa that is nearly $1 higher than its original $28 offer.
As a result, the committee said it would “commence discussions with, and grant due diligence access to, Randa” and “evaluate the proposal.” It told shareholders that they need not take any action at this time and there was “no assurance” the discussions would lead to a transaction with Randa.
As reported, on June 16, the Perry Ellis board unanimously approved a $437 million transaction — or $27.50 a share — to become a private company through an acquisition led by George Feldenkreis.

Randa submitted its offer on July 2 and the committee determined that the slightly higher offer was not deemed in the best interest of the shareholders and declined to engage in discussions with Randa.
Randa executives could not

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Peerless Granted Hart Schaffner Marx Clothing License

Peerless Clothing International has been given the Hart Schaffner Marx men’s tailored clothing license from the brand’s owner, Authentic Brands Group.
Under the terms of the deal, the W Diamond Group will continue to manufacture the collection at its plant in Des Plaines, Ill.
For the past five years, W Diamond had held the license and contracted Peerless to do the merchandising and sales, according to Doug Williams, chief executive officer of W Diamond. He said W Diamond had “manufactured, shipped and invoiced the customers as the licensee and paid Peerless a commission for their services. We collectively decided to move the license to Peerless and W Diamond would continue to manufacture on their behalf.”
Williams added that W Diamond is building a new factory in Des Plaines to replace the existing one. It is expected to begin production in October of this year.
“Over the past five years, ABG, Peerless and W Diamond have continued the heritage of leadership and excellence within the men’s tailored clothing industry, with the support of our customers. With our multi-million-dollar investment, this new partnership will play to each company’s strengths and provide the foundation to continue Hart Schaffner Marx’s leadership position,” Williams said.
Peerless is the current licensee for Hart Schaffner

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-fashion/peerless-granted-hart-schaffner-marx-clothing-license-1202768589/

      

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Prps Names Donadi as Creative Director

Prps has named designer Mattia Donadi its new creative director.
In this role, Donadi will steer and oversee all design and product development at the high-end denim line, including setting the creative tone and positioning of the New York-based brand.
He has quietly been working with the brand since February, right around the time founder Donwan Harrell left the label that he had founded in 2002. However, spring will mark the first official collection designed by Donadi, leading Prps to go public with the news of his appointment now.
Donadi has worked in fashion for nearly 20 years and served as senior director of product development for Helmut Lang as well as director of production for R13. He also founded two consultancies specializing in product design, production and branding prior to joining Prps.
He is considered a leader in the art of denim washing and a trendsetter in denim development and production techniques.
Prps, which stands for purpose, was founded by Harrell in 2002. It now offers men’s and women’s sportswear and lifestyle products in addition to the core denim Prps products, as well as a selvage denim collection under the Prps Noir name. The brand is carried in over 450 stores in 20 countries including Bergdorf Goodman,

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STREET SIGNS: A Ma Maniére Living Merges Streetwear Retail With Hotel Suites

WASHINGTON, D.C. — A Ma Maniére is officially open, but it’s not open. Because of the hordes that lined H Street in Northeast D.C. on Friday, store owner James Whitner told the crowd that he’d postponed the opening, even as a few still meandered about hoping he would change his mind.
“We will never release a sneaker from this location again,” said Whitner, who on that day was releasing the Nike Off-White Prestos, the Adidas Yung-1s and several Jordans. “I’m going to try to tie releases to community outreach initiatives and if you participate, you can buy. I can’t change anything if I don’t change anything.”
For brands such as J.W. Anderson, Greg Lauren, Comme des Garçons Play and Visvim, Whitner’s A Ma Maniére concept is a chance for the brands to introduce themselves to a covetable customer. In most cases, Whitner opens shops in secondary markets such as Charlotte and Raleigh, N.C.; Pittsburgh; Houston, and Tampa Bay, Fla., and is the first person to bring these brands to a particular region. He also runs stores in Atlanta.

A Ma Maniere Living in Washington, D.C.

Washington has a few streetwear and sneaker boutiques, including Ubiq, Diet Starts Monday, a retail store and restaurant and

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-retail-business/a-ma-maniere-living-james-whitner-washington-d-c-1202767066/

      

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Eison Triple Thread Doubles Down on Personalization Via Spotify

SAN FRANCISCO — Never underestimate the power of music. Eison Triple Thread certainly isn’t, with an interesting approach to personalization using Spotify playlists.
The online made-to-measure men’s wear company’s new app, launching Monday, will combine answers from a style quiz, Spotify playlists, artificial intelligence and machine learning to come up with garment options for clients.
“Over the past several months, we’ve been focused on the product piece and getting it right and finding that balance of product efficacy and making sure it fits,” said Eison Triple Thread founder and ceo Julian Eison. “We were delivering things that people actually wanted outside of ‘Hey, it looks good. It fits’ and start thinking about application and utility.”
The company began boosting it data-collection capabilities, automating off-line processes in a bid to find where the drop-off, or the decision to not move forward with a purchase, was happening online.
The app, dubbed Eison Triple Thread Fits, uses machine learning and artificial intelligence to match swatches and fits, while using music as the primary mode of drawing clients in.
“We’re telling them what their optimal wardrobe should be based on the music as the onboarding process,” Eison said. “From there, we make general assumptions on patterns, colors and other

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Brioni Changes, So Does Italy’s Men’s Wear Industry

MILAN — “Brioni is a work in progress, I underline the word progress,” said Jean-François Palus, Kering Group’s managing director, during a call with analysts on Thursday, to discuss first-half results of the Italian men’s wear brand’s parent company. And on Friday, the company revealed it was once again parting ways with its creative director — this time Nina-Maria Nitsche — after only one year. Brioni chief executive officer Fabrizio Malverdi was not available for comment.
What happened with Nitsche is open to interpretation. Kering does not break out sales for its smaller brands, but it was reported that the “other luxury houses” division posted a 34.7 percent increase in sales to 534 million euros in the second quarter, despite continued losses at Brioni. But Jean-Marc Duplaix, Kering’s chief financial officer, said during the call that “Brioni’s top line is on track to gradually better absorb its fixed costs.”
Analysts are skeptical Kering would be looking to sell Brioni now, a suggestion confirmed by Palus, who said the group does “not intend to dispose of any other brands of our current portfolio.” Kering, then called PPR, acquired Brioni in 2011 from the descendants of the company’s founders, Nazareno Fonticoli and Gaetano Savini.
A successor

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Brioni, Nina-Maria Nitsche Part Ways

MILAN — Brioni and its creative director Nina-Maria Nitsche have parted ways.
The men’s luxury company sent a brief statement on Friday announcing the exit of Nitsche, who presented her latest collection for the brand in June in Paris. A successor hasn’t been named yet.
Nitsche joined Brioni in June 2017, succeeding former creative director Justin O’Shea, a women’s retail executive who had no design experience, who left the company in October 2016. Previously, British designer Brendan Mullane held the role of Brioni creative director from July 2012 to February 2016.
A Maison Martin Margela veteran, Nitsche joined the French company in 1989 and, after Margiela’s resignation in 2009, took over the creative direction of the brand. She joined Vetements in September 2016 but left when the company relocated to Zurich from Paris in 2017.

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Descendant of Thieves to Open First Retail Store

Men’s brand Descendant of Thieves is not afraid of all the empty storefronts on Bleecker Street and will open its first brick-and-mortar store on the beleaguered strip in November.
The shop at No. 203 is to house a 600-square-foot retail store and 1,000-square-foot showroom and office. The building has housed only two other tenants in its 100-year-plus existence: a bakery and a leather goods shop. It’s located on the east side of Sixth Avenue, near Minetta Street. Its design will be a nod to the history of the space and will include vintage furnishings and vintage-inspired fixtures.
“Descendant of Thieves is going against the grain in leading a movement to bring back the independent shops of yesteryear and reignite New York City’s retail,” said Matteo Maniatty, creative director and cofounder of the brand. “We chose the 203 Bleecker Street landmarked location because we knew this was exactly where we wanted to be — among other independently owned businesses that give Greenwich Village its unique character.”
The store will showcase a variety of programming including performances, art exhibitions and community events and will also offer 60-minute delivery within New York.
“We are looking forward to re-creating — not renovating — the space back to its original

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Ernest Sabine Named Creative Director of J.W. Hulme

Looks from the J.W. Hulme collection.

Ernest Sabine has just doubled his workload.
The designer and founder of the accessories brand Ernest Alexander has been named creative director of J.W. Hulme Co., a leather goods and canvas products brand that was founded in 1905. J.W. Hulme, which is based in St. Paul, is best known for its handmade, heirloom-quality products and Old School finishing techniques.
Sabine, who started his Ernest Alexander label in 2009, is a member of the Council of Fashion Designers of America and was the recipient of GQ’s Best New Designer in America award.
He said Dean Vanech, the owner of J.W. Hulme, “had been looking for ways to evolve the brand from both a product and branding point of view. My name came up and we connected. It instantly felt like a natural fit — there is a lot of crossover between my background in the men’s bag world and J.W. Hulme’s rich history of making beautiful bags and leather goods.”
Sabine said the initial deal is for one year with the potential to collaborate on future seasons. In addition to overseeing the artistic direction and aesthetics of the brand, he will also be involved in its marketing and advertising efforts.
Sabine said that,

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Does Zegna, Reliance Investment in Rathore Show New Phase for India Luxury Market?

The investment by Ermenegildo Zegna and Reliance Brands in Indian men’s wear designer Raghavendra Rathore marks a series of firsts for all the companies involved — and could signal a major turning point in global companies’ attitude toward Indian fashion.
The investment is the first in an Indian brand by both Zegna and Reliance, while for Rathore it represents another milestone in his career that could help turn him into a designer name recognized worldwide.
Rathore is well-known in the luxury men’s space in India for his tailoring and interpretation of the traditional men’s formalwear bandhgala, breeches and tapered waist coats — with a focus on both sophistication and style. (A bandhgala, which is said to have originated from Jodhpur, is part of Indian formalwear with its high collar, front buttons, and formfitting style.) Designers — many of whom are strongly independent and resist any steering by investors — are interested to see how the growth of his brand pans out with the new investors.
Rathore currently sells his Jodhpur brand in seven stores in India and also has a lower priced line, Imperial India Company. But it is the luxury aspect that the Zegna-Reliance brands’ investment will fuel, focusing on the fast-growing

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Robert Stock to Create New Brand

Robert Stock is ready to do it again.
The founder and former chairman of Robert Graham has transitioned out of that role and will launch another brand next month.
Called simply Robert, the upscale men’s lifestyle brand will be online only and utilize a club concept where customers will pay a membership fee to join Robert’s Club and gain access to the woven shirts, knitwear, sport coats and outerwear.
Stock’s partner in the new venture is Thomas Main, former head of design at Robert Graham, and a 30-year colleague of the designer.
“This is what keeps me going,” Stock told WWD. He said that since the Robert Graham company was acquired by Tengram Capital Partners five years ago and subsequently went public, there have been a series of “ups and downs.” Stock has been serving as a brand ambassador and consultant and has not been involved in the day-to-day operation of the brand.
However, he said the parting was amicable and he remains “on very friendly terms” with the Robert Graham team. “My name is on the label and I’m still a stockholder and have a lot of feelings for the company. So if the situation calls for it, and they need me, I’m always available.”
Stock, a Coty- and Cutty Sark-award winning

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Chinatown Market Collaborates With Good Charlotte

Chinatown Market has jumped into the musician merchandise category.
The Los Angeles-based streetwear brand also runs a consulting agency and has done merchandise work for Warner Music Group and Live Nation, but this is the first time it is lending the Chinatown Market name and logo to product.
Mike Cherman, founder of Chinatown Market, said he was good friends with Josh Madden, brother to Good Charlotte’s Joel and Benji Madden, and after finding out Joel was a fan of the brand, they decided to team up.
“Growing up I was a fan of Good Charlotte,” Cherman said. “And eventually we were at a dinner and just said we have to do this. It was good to work on something this scale, and it’s something to be said for Good Charlotte. They did a BAPE collaboration and now we are reintroducing them on a whole different platform.”
The first drop from the collection includes a T-shirt, hoodie and stickers that retail in different packages ranging from $10 to $105. They are available to purchase on Good Charlotte’s web site. Good Charlotte will release its seventh studio album, “Generation Rx,” on Sept. 14 and will go on a North American tour this fall. Cherman said this will

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Ben Sherman to Return to New York Retailing

Marquee Brands has breathed new life into Ben Sherman since acquiring the label two years ago. And on Sept. 1, the brand known for its bright British-inspired men’s wear will reenter the New York market with a store in SoHo.
The 2,000-square-foot store at 130 Greene Street will be open through the holidays and will offer monthly programming and activations ranging from a speaker series and influencer dinners to concerts. In terms of merchandise, it will carry the entire Ben Sherman collection, which ranges from ready-to-wear and bespoke suits to footwear and jewelry, as well as limited-edition pieces. There will also be a full-service shirt bar that harkens back to the history of the brand, which was founded in Brighton, England, in 1963 as a young men’s, “Mod”-inspired shirt line. It has since evolved into a lifestyle brand targeting men between 25 and 40 years old.
The store will be the only location in the U.S. to carry the entire Ben Sherman x House of Holland capsule collection. The company teamed with British fashion designer Henry Holland for a collection of unisex styles. The collection was shown on the runway at London Collections Men earlier this month and complements the main Ben

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CDLP Collaborates With Tom of Finland Foundation

CDLP is embarking on its second collaboration.
The Stockholm-based men’s underwear brand, which was founded in 2016 by Christian Larson and Andreas Palm, is working with the Tom of Finland Foundation on a capsule collection of underwear inspired by Touko Laaksonen, the artist, whose pseudonym is Tom of Finland, who created some of the most memorable imagery of gay contemporary culture. CDLP previously worked with Swedish film director Jonas Åkerlund.
“On our side there was a strong respect for Tom of Finland and the Foundation from way before we even started CDLP. The honesty in Tom’s work has a deep story to be connected to,” said Palm, the chief executive officer at CDLP. “A story of pure talent, but also the impact that Tom’s work has had on gay culture, equality, and freedom in general. That’s something that’s important to CDLP. Tom impacted a shift during his generation and is moving the needle still to this day.”
Palm said they designed underwear based on pieces that Laaksonen designed in his work that were never produced. They’ve produced the underwear, which will retail from $60 to $85, with lyocell, a biodegradable fiber. The collection, which will be out in late September, will be packaged

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-designer-luxury/cdlp-collaborates-tom-of-finland-foundation-1202759242/

      

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Pal Zileri Changes Continue

MILAN — Pal Zileri is ushering in a new chief executive officer, Marco Sanavia, to succeed Giovanni Mannucci, who has consensually agreed to end his collaboration with the brand’s parent company Forall Confezioni S.p.A.
Since January, Sanavia has held the role of director of human resources at Mayhoola Group, which controls Forall. Before that, he was director of human resources and organization at Forall and Pal Zileri from July 2014. He held a similar role at Geox from 2011 to 2014 and, prior, at Bottega Veneta from 2008 to 2011, after a stint at Gucci from 2006 to 2008.
Mannucci joined Pal Zileri in October 2016 from Boglioli, which has seen its own share of changes after the arrival of a new owner, PHI Industrial Acquisitions, last year and of a new president, Francesco Russo.
Mannucci succeeded Paolo Roviera, who left at the end of July 2016 to join Corneliani under its new owner, Bahrain-based Investcorp.
In June 2017, Mannucci appointed a new creative director, Rocco Iannone, who is expected to remain at the helm of Pal Zileri. Iannone succeeded Mauro Ravizza Krieger, who exited after a three-year tenure.
A graduate of fashion and design school Istituto Marangoni, Iannone previously worked in the men’s wear department of the Giorgio Armani Group for 10

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