Mens

Cremieux to Replace SoHo Unit With Hudson Yards Store

NEW YORK — Count Cremieux as the latest upscale tenant to sign on at Hudson Yards.
The French men’s wear brand, which got its start in Saint-Tropez in 1976, will open an 800-square-foot store at The Shops and Restaurants at Hudson Yards, a key element of the neighborhood that is being built on Manhattan’s far West Side. When completed, Hudson Yards will include more than 18 million square feet of commercial and residential space, more than 100 stores, a collection of restaurants, 4,000 residences, a 750-seat public school, a 200-room Equinox hotel and 14 acres of public open space.
The Cremieux store is expected to open in mid-March and will join anchor Neiman Marcus as well as Dior, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Coach, Kiehl’s, AG Jeans by Adriano Goldschmied and Forty-Five-Ten.
At Hudson Yards, the store will be located near Ralph Lauren, Vineyard Vines and other brands with a similar aesthetic, said Stephane Cremieux, chief executive officer of Cremieux and son of founder Daniel Cremieux.
The shop will replace the 700-square-foot, two-level unit at 65 Mercer Street that closed in June. That store had been open for four years but the lease was up for renewal and the landlord would not reduce the rent, Cremieux

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Lucas Ossendrijver Exits Lanvin

PARIS — Lucas Ossendrijver is exiting Lanvin, WWD has learned.
The move comes in the wake of sweeping changes at the historic French house under its new owner Fosun International.
After 13 years at Lanvin, Ossendrijver’s final collection as its men’s designer is the pre-collection being presented to buyers at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris, according to an industry source.
Lanvin is expected to pull out from the runway calendar for the upcoming Paris Fashion Week Men’s in January, the source said.
Lanvin could not be immediately be reached for comment.
Contacted by phone last Wednesday, Ossendrijver told WWD that he was still at the house, adding: “No further comment for the moment.”
Lanvin has been without a women’s designer since the departure of Olivier Lapidus last March, and it has yet to make an official announcement regarding his successor.
WWD broke the news on Oct. 8 that Lanvin has settled on Bruno Sialelli, the former head of men’s wear at Loewe, to design its women’s and men’s wear collections. It is understood it is in negotiations with Loewe parent LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton over a non-compete clause.
Finding new design and management leadership has been job number one for Fosun International, which acquired the French luxury house in February.

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Varvatos Sticks to His DNA to Survive Fashion’s Vagaries

NEW YORK — The secret to success is to stay true to your own unique DNA and not be swayed by the whims of fashion.
That’s been the path John Varvatos has followed for nearly two decades since launching his eponymous brand in 1999.
In a conversation with Nick Sullivan, fashion director of Esquire, at the Fashion Group International’s Tastemakers breakfast at the Cosmopolitan Club here Tuesday morning, the designer said: “Brand DNA is everything to me personally. There’s fashion and then there’s style. Fashion is more immediate and of-the-moment, but style evolves and matures. I look at what we do as evolutionary, not revolutionary.”
In fashion, he said, many brands burst onto the scene, make a major splash and then burn out. But to survive and prosper in the long term, they need to stay true to their core mission and not alienate the customers who are drawn to their aesthetic.
“When you create product, hopefully you build a client base that has some loyalty,” he said. “My job is to continue to deliver interesting product that will compel them to spend their money.”
Varvatos said the fashion industry is a very different animal than it was when he started out. “It’s an interesting time

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B.U.M. Equipment Signs Men’s Sleepwear License

B.U.M. Equipment is expanding its reach.
The brand has signed a licensing deal with Vandale Industries for men’s loungewear and sleepwear starting with the fall 2019 season.
This brings the number of licenses for the young men’s and juniors brand to 12.
Stephen Wayne, chairman of B.U.M. Equipment LLC, who has owned the trademark since 1997, said: “The signing of Vandales will be a great addition to our product assortment offered in the U.S. market. It gives us another 10 to 15 additional sku’s [stockkeeping units] in the men’s area, which we relaunched last back-to-school with Urban Outfitters.”
Wayne, who acquired the trademark out of bankruptcy court 21 years ago, relaunched in 2017 on B.U.M.’s 30th anniversary.

Founded in 1986 as a street fashion brand, its heyday was in the mid-Nineties when it had some 35 licenses and sales of around $3 billion. But Chauvin International Ltd., B.U.M.’s owner at the time, saw a sales decline, which contributed to financial difficulties for the brand and its bankruptcy filing in 1996.
Wayne said he continues to seek additional licenses for the U.S. and overseas.
Vandale was established in 1982 as a women’s intimate apparel company and holds the license for Vince Camuto in men’s and Jessica Simpson, Izod and Lucky Brand in women’s.

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Pitti Immagine Names New Tutorship Director

MILAN — Pitti Tutorship, Pitti Immagine’s business division aimed at supporting emerging designers in the development of their brands, appointed Luca Rizzi its new director, effective immediately.
Succeeding Riccardo Vannetti, who left Pitti Immagine in June to join Salvatore Ferragamo as chief marketing officer, Rizzi, 34, worked for several fashion companies, including Tomorrow Ltd. and Metradamo, prior to joining Milan-based fashion consultancy Lagente in 2011 and then funding his own agency, called Creative and More, in 2014.
“With this appointment we kick off a strategy aimed at reinforcing what we have done with Pitti Tutorship from 2012 to today,” said Pitti Immagine chief executive officer Raffaello Napoleone. “We are also creating a group of professionals supporting our team,” he added, citing Franco Penè, honorary chairman of Onward Luxury Group, and fashion education guru Linda Loppa, as the new members of the Pitti Tutorship advisory board.
As part of Pitti Tutorship’s effort, British designer Eleanor McDonald, who in June scooped up the ITS Award for best collection, will present a special capsule collection at Pitti Uomo, which will run in Florence Jan. 8 to 11.
In addition, due to the support of Pitti Tutorship and ICE, the Italian trade agency, Italian emerging brand Ice Surface Temperature, designed

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Why Jerry Lorenzo Opted to Design a Basketball Shoe for Nike

Jerry Lorenzo is no stranger to basketball.
While his father has deep ties to the Major League Baseball — he was a manager and now serves as an analyst — and Lorenzo worked for the Los Angeles Dodgers out of college, his Instagram was filled with shots of him sitting courtside at NBA games with his sneakers usually taking up the frame. And, according to Lorenzo, his Fear of God line was influenced by his day-to-day wardrobe during the Nineties when he was in high school and got dressed for the classroom and the basketball court.

Nike Air Fear of God

“As you can imagine, there are tons of opportunities that get brought to the table when two brands come together and try to find the common place to build from. We discussed other sports. We talked about football and training, but when the basketball opportunity came to the table, it hit a sweet spot for me,” said Lorenzo. “I have a true emotional connection to the sport and I thought I could really bring what I believe are my gifts and talents from a design perspective and be of best service to Nike.”
Lorenzo worked with Nike basketball designer Leo Chang on two basketball

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Bikkembergs Celebrates 30th Anniversary With Capsule

MILAN — The Bikkembergs men’s wear label is celebrating its 30th anniversary with the launch of a capsule collection.
Called “30,” it includes 13 pieces combining luxury sportswear and urban streetwear. Defined by the Bikkembergs logo combined with two bands, one green and one red, the designs span from hoodies, T-shirts, polos, trousers and basketball pants to accessories, such as sneakers, bags, backpacks, slides, textile items and underwear.
The “30” collection will be launched with an online media campaign starring popular Italian rapper Emis Killa.
“We wanted to bring new ideas into the Bikkembergs world, without betraying our sporty DNA,” said Bikkembergs creative director Lee Wood. “Realizing this capsule collection, which mixes streetwear and music, has been highly stimulating. Emis Killa, with his strong and dynamic image, is the right testimonial for this project.”
The capsule, which inaugurates the company’s new distribution strategy based on different seasonal drops, will be available for pre-order online at Bikkembergs’ e-commerce Nov. 13–30 and will hit the stores at the end of April.
“This commercial strategy fits the needs of a market which is faster and faster and reflects the company’s strategy aimed at establishing a continuous dialogue with its customers,” said Bikkembergs chief operating officer Dario Predonzan.
The Bikkembergs

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Kiton Opening Shop at Wynn Resort in Vegas

Kiton is expanding its retail presence in the U.S. market.
The Italian luxury brand on Friday will open a 1,937-square-foot boutique at the Wynn resort in Las Vegas.
The store will feature a new design that is centered around the brand’s exclusive fabric collection. For example, the chairs and sofas, furniture and curtains are all created from the fabrics also used for clothing. Walnut wood, similar to that used at the Kiton headquarters in Arzano, Italy, and its Palazzo Kiton in Milan, is used as an accent, and special pieces of artwork commissioned for the store will serve to decorate the space.
The store will sell the men’s and women’s apparel collections as well as accessories. It will also offer Kiton’s bespoke service with a special selection of products that are exclusive to the Las Vegas store.
Kiton, which has been in the U.S. market since 1980, has 20 retail stores or in-store shops in this country.

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New & Lingwood Opens Store on Upper East Side

The British invasion of New York continues.
On Thursday, New & Lingwood, the men’s wear brand that traces its history to Eton High Street in 1865, opened the door of its first store in the U.S. The 2,300-square-foot, two-level unit at 970 Lexington Avenue, between 70th and 71st Streets, is only the third location for the label and joins the original 153-year-old shop in Eton as well as the flagship that has been on Jermyn Street in London since 1922.
The New York store offers ready-to-wear and furnishings on the main floor — including a vast selection of socks — and made-to-measure, formalwear and limited-edition silk dressing gowns on the second level. The store also boasts an unusual feature for Manhattan — an outdoor garden in the rear, which New & Lingwood can utilize for events in the nice weather.
New & Lingwood is one of several U.K. brands to make a move to Manhattan. In June, Harrys of London, the footwear and accessories label, opened a boutique at Park Avenue and 57th Street. Harrys is owned by billionaire real estate developer Charles Cohen, who also owns a majority stake in Richard James and is close to opening a 2,000-square-foot flagship for that brand next door.

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Virgil Abloh Thinks Streetwear Can Be a Trap

Virgil Abloh used the term zigzag often during his appearance at WWD’s Apparel and Retail CEO Summit. It describes how he’s climbed the ladder in fashion to launch his own line, Off-White, and land the artistic director position at Louis Vuitton men’s. Streetwear was how he got his foot in the door — the zig — but once he got inside he’s pushed himself past the confines of “streetwear designer” — the zag.
So far, the element of surprise, along with balancing his many other creative jobs, is working and he’s not looking to disrupt the industry as much as he wants to evolve it. In a conversation with WWD’s editor in chief Miles Socha, Abloh spoke about the sustainability of streetwear, how he avoids clichés, and what younger customers are looking for that most luxury brands don’t offer.
WWD: You trained as an architect, so you are an outsider of sorts to fashion design. Has this helped you to break rules and what principles do you bring from architecture?
Virgil Abloh: I first studied civil engineering at the University of Wisconsin at Madison and then architecture at the Illinois Institute of Technology. But I would say my sort of education started well

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Ermenegildo Zegna Launches XXX Capsule in the U.S.

TRIPLE X: Ermenegildo Zegna has teamed with Farfetch to launch its Ermenegildo Zegna XXX capsule collection in the U.S.
Designed by the brand’s creative director Alessandro Sartori to “match the identity of society’s boldest and most visionary members,” the capsule breaks the boundaries between streetwear and tailoring to offer a wardrobe of urban pieces, combining a contemporary, metropolitan look with sartorial quality. Ermenegildo Zegna officially kicked off its XXX project this year.
Retailing from $375 to $2,450, the Ermenegildo Zegna XXX capsule collection includes graphic windbreakers, bombers, T-shirts, sweatshirts, knits, as well as accessories such as fanny packs, pouches, basketball caps and hand-stitched sneakers, all embellished with the lineup’s signature XXX pattern.
Dedicated to the U.S. market, this capsule will be exclusively on sale on Farfetch beginning Monday.

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EXCLUSIVE: Aldo Maria Camillo to Unveil Namesake Brand at Pitti Uomo

MILAN — Aldo Maria Camillo will unveil the first collection of his namesake label at Pitti Uomo, running in Florence Jan. 8 to 11.
The designer was selected by the international men’s wear trade show at its Pitti Italics Special Event.
“Aldo Maria Camillo works exclusively and with great focus on men’s fashion studying the masculine silhouette, with the aim of giving a new imprint and freshness to men’s wear. His cultural references belong to an intimately classical background, supported by solid stylistic training and an acute sensitivity to current worldwide events — which goes beyond fashion. He has talent, imagination, and a sense of material,” said Pitti Immagine director of communications and events Lapo Cianchi. “The new project of Aldo Maria is very personal and immediately engaged us, because we believe that in men’s wear it is essential to return to the standards of elegance nonetheless, re-read and renewed in a modern key. We want to join him in this adventure — the launching of his self-named brand — which now more than ever before requires courage and determination.”
A graduate from the New York Fashion Institute of Technology, Camillo kicked off his career in 2003 as an assistant fashion designer at Valentino. Three

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How the Lo Lifes Feel About Ralph Lauren Collaborating With Palace

The Lo Lifes feel robbed.
The Brooklyn crew that used to steal, wear and sell Ralph Lauren in the Eighties is frustrated that the iconic American brand is working on a collection with Palace instead of them.
According to Willie Esco, who founded the Lo Life brand in 2016, which sells apparel online inspired by Ralph Lauren’s most iconic pieces, someone from Palace’s team reached out to get a blessing from members of the group. But most of the Lo Lifes, who skew older, weren’t familiar with Palace when it announced earlier this month via billboards in Tokyo and Instagram posts that it would be collaborating with the brand they’ve collected, the designer they’ve worshiped and the clothes they’ve helped popularize in urban communities for more than 30 years.
“Look at what Gucci did with Dapper Dan. Ralph should have did [sic] something like that with the Lo Lifes,” said Esco, referring to Gucci-backed efforts to reopen Daniel Day’s Harlem store and atelier, which shut down in 1992. “I wasn’t shocked by the decision. It will generate great sales, but it feels like a money grab from both sides and dilutes what they are all about.”
A year and a half ago, WWD explored how younger consumers

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Isaia to Open London Flagship

Isaia will open its first store in London, a 4,800-square foot shop at 45 Conduit Street, on Nov. 4. This marks the first store in the U.K. for the Naples-based luxury men’s brand, which operates some 14 stores elsewhere in Europe as well as in Asia and the U.S.
Gianluca Isaia, chief executive officer and third generation of the family-owned company, said: “I visited London for the first time in 1976 when I was 13 years old and have loved it ever since. London is truly one of the greatest cities in the world. The history, sophistication and the love of tailoring make it the perfect place for Isaia to have a home.”
The store is being designed by Ferrari Architetti and will be decorated with art and artifacts sourced by interior designer Alberta Saladino that speak to its legacy near the Bay of Naples. It will include features also found in other stores such as a vintage Campari bar and a red lacquered piano.
It will be divided into distinct areas intended to spotlight the full range of offerings, including sportswear, tailored clothing and accessories, and there will be a separate made-to-measure area and a “Vesuvio” VIP room.
Conduit Street in London’s West End

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‘Made in France’ Brand Rue Begand Opens First Store

PARIS — One is in Troyes, a city in eastern France with a deep-rooted textile history. The other is located in the Haut Marais, a trendy shopping district in the center of Paris.
Rue Begand — the men’s fashion brand — has opened its first brick-and-mortar store on the Rue Charlot, after launching wholesale in January at L’Exception in France and United Arrows in Japan.
Doubling as the label’s headquarters, the shop sports a photo studio in its basement where the fall 2018 and spring 2019 collections were shot for the Rue Begand e-shop, set to launch in a couple of weeks.
Named after a street in Troyes that used to house a number of clothing workshops, the brand is a celebration of local savoir faire.
“Eighty percent of our clothes are made in Troyes,” said Rue Begand’s founder Samuel Granata, adding that the remaining part is manufactured in a nearby town, with a few of the more voluminous pieces being made in Tunisia.
Rue Begand works with L’Atelier d’Ariane, a historical clothing manufacturer based in Troyes run by Granata’s mother Véronique. “My family has had the atelier for over 20 years,” said the 25-year-old founder, who runs the brand with his brother Arthur. “I spent most of

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Peter Hunsinger’s Latest Chapter: Socks Sized Like Shoes

Peter Hunsinger learned a lot about fashion during his three-plus decades working for Condé Nast. And now he’s putting that knowledge to work for himself.
Hunsinger, who left the magazine company in 2017 after 36 years at GQ, Vanity Fair, Architectural Digest, Gourmet, Golf Digest and more, is now going into the sock business.
He teamed with Tom Kallish of Tommie Copper to create Kane 11, a direct-to-consumer business that will provide a unique take on socks: The assortment will be sold in individual shoe sizes rather than in the range offered by other brands. Hunsinger said the company has applied for a provisional patent for the sizing model.
“There are two things I learned during my time at GQ working with Jim Nelson and Jim Moore,” Hunsinger said. “Guys really put an emphasis on fit and personal style. And there’s a revolution in men’s fit in the direct-to-consumer business with brands such as Proper Cloth, Untuckit and Bonobos.”
Add to that, guys’ propensity to buy more online and Hunsinger saw an opportunity.
“Nobody that we know of has made socks in individual sizes,” he said. Rather, they’re sized 9-12, small, medium, large or one size fits all, he said. So he and Kallish found

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Crooks and Castles Returns

Crooks and Castles is making a comeback.
The California-based streetwear brand, founded by Dennis Calvero and Robert Panlilio in 2002, was best known for parody graphics fusing luxury logos with its own flourishes — the Versace medusa head covered with a bandana being its most popular. Calvero said with luxury brands now working more directly with streetwear lines, it was an ideal time to revamp Crooks and Castles and bring it back to the market.
“Now that everything has caught up to what we’ve been doing for the last decade, we thought it was time to tell the younger consumer that we are one of the originators of this luxe street image,” Calvero said.
The assortment, employing graphic language that’s a bit more political, features T-shirts, sweatpants with smaller versions of Crooks and Castles signature medusa graphic, chain link motifs and logo imagery. T-shirts are priced at $45 while track pants run up to $148 — slightly more expensive than previous incarnations because more items are made in L.A., and due to limited runs on garments made from Japanese military fabrics.
After launching, Crooks went on a short hiatus when Calvero moved to New York and took a job at Ecko Unlimited where he

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Michael Strahan Expands Into Jeans

NEW YORK — Michael Strahan is expanding his fashion brand.
The former Giants defensive end and media personality is launching jeans to add to his successful men’s wear collection at J.C. Penney.
He teamed with denim guru Eric Goldstein of Jean Shop, RRL, Gap and Denimrepair.com fame to create a collection under the Collection by Michael Strahan moniker. It is being offered in one straight fit in four washes, ranging from light to dark, and also includes a denim jacket. The washes are named after neighborhoods in New York: Gramercy, SoHo, Astoria and Williamsburg.
The line is priced at $70 for the jeans and $80 for the jacket but the out-the-door prices are $34.99 and $39.99, respectively, and will be merchandised within the Michael Strahan clothing department at 300 J.C. Penney stores as well as online.
In an exclusive interview at the “Good Morning America” studios, Strahan said he has high hopes for the jeans, which will join his tailored clothing, furnishings, ath-leisure, luggage, shoes and underwear collections at Penney’s.
“It’s launching in 300 stores and a lot of our products are in more than 600 stores, so we’re halfway to where we want to get,” he said. “For Penney’s, they’ll roll it out in

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New York Fashion Week: Men’s, Vegas Date Overlap Causing Angst

Eeny, meeny, miny, moe — make your choice — New York Fashion Week: Men’s or MAGIC.
A shift in dates by Project, the flagship men’s wear trade show of the MAGIC Marketplace in Las Vegas, to a week earlier in February is forcing many brands and retailers to choose between the two events or, in the case of smaller designers, create extra samples in order to have a presence at both.
NYFW: Men’s will run Feb. 4 to 6 in New York City while Project will run Feb. 5 to 7 in Las Vegas.
Already Liberty Fairs and Agenda have had to leave their longtime home at the Sands Convention Center in order to align with Project’s dates and have secured a spot in downtown Las Vegas for their shows.
Sharifa Murdock, co-owner of Liberty, said she’s aiming to deliver a different experience this time. Liberty will be held at the World Market Center, which she described as an “open space with four big tents” that will allow Liberty a clean slate to “create what we want. We’re going to do something brand new,” she said.
That will include “a lot of activations” that will offer a “fresh” take on the trade show scene. “We

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Tackma to Offer Elevated Unisex Collection

Jeffrey Schottenstein wants Tackma to speak to more consumers.
Schottenstein, the son of Jay L. Schottenstein, chairman of American Eagle Outfitters Inc., founded the streetwear line, which stands for “They All Can Kiss My A–,” in 2011. Now he’s hoping to broaden Tackma’s scope with Tackma Studio, an elevated, unisex collection that’s being guest-designed by Gregory Abbou, who cofounded Taverniti So Jeans in 2003 and has consulted for labels including Iro, Re/Done, Genetic Denim, Guess and L’Agence.
“I wanted to bring more awareness to our brand story and mission,” said Schottenstein. “Tackma is about challenging the status quo and embracing your individuality and I think that this unisex collection embodies that.”
The collection, which is made in Los Angeles, includes T-shirts, hoodies, outerwear and long-line shirts made from French terry, Supima jersey and modal cotton. The pieces come in a mostly neutral palette of ivory, black, gray and clay pink, with special dying techniques to create marbleized tones and hand-embroidery details such as raw edges and seams. It retails from $170 to $525 for outerwear, $75 to $225 for shirts, $168 to $195 for sweatshirts and $170 to $220 for pants. The Tackma collection retails from $25 to $68. Schottenstein said the plan

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