Mens

Will a Larger Adidas Yeezy Boost Release Hurt the Brand?

Kanye West always wanted this.
Not having royalties and not being able to produce more sneakers were the main reasons he left Nike. And upon signing his deal with Adidas, which started in 2013, he made it clear that he wanted more people to have access to his sneakers. Today he’s making good on that promise with the release of the Yeezy Boost 350 V2 in an all-white colorway that retails for $220. Customers will only be able to purchase the sneakers directly through adidas.com and the Yeezy Supply web site. They are reportedly releasing 1 million pairs of shoes.
West’s influence, along with scarcity, is what has bolstered the Yeezy footwear line. But what happens when a Yeezy Boost style becomes even more ubiquitous? Will it have the same trajectory as the Jordan brand, which lost market share and cache due to overproduction. WWD spoke with people in the sneaker industry to see if the release will hurt or help the brand.
Matt Cohen, vice president of business strategy and development at Goat, a sneaker resale app
WWD: What do you think of this release?
Matt Cohen: This is an interesting release because we’ve never seen something like this. For one, it’s a restock,

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-accessories/will-a-larger-adidas-yeezy-boost-release-hurt-the-brand-1202829556/

      

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Michael Kors Brings Pesaresi on Board to Helm Men’s Division

Michael Kors Holdings Limited has named Andrea Pesaresi president of Michael Kors Men’s, effective Oct. 15.
He succeeds Don Witkowski, who passed away in June, and will report to John D. Idol, chairman and chief executive officer.
Pesaresi was most recently ceo of Philippe Model, but prior to that, he spent 25 years at Ermenegildo Zegna, where his most recent role was brand director of Z Zegna and Licensing, a post that encompassed product development, brand strategy, international expansion and marketing. Pesaresi joined Philippe Model, an Italian sneaker brand, at the end of 2016.
“Andrea has been in the industry for 30 years and comes to us with extensive knowledge of the evolving luxury men’s marketplace,” Idol said. “Andrea will provide the necessary leadership to enable us to achieve our goal of developing the Michael Kors men’s wear business to $1 billion in revenue.”
The company declined to say how large the men’s business is today, but in the first-quarter earnings call in early August, Idol said that while men’s is “still small to the total company, it continues to grow.” He cited strength in logo sportswear “for Father’s Day gifting, particularly the Greenwich polo and our knit logo baseball jacket,” along with “refined pieces such

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Icecream Relaunches as Luxury Brand

Icecream, which was founded by Pharrell Williams and Tomoaki Nagao, better known as Nigo, in 2005, the same year they started Billionaire Boys Club, is back but with a sleeker, more elevated aesthetic.
Williams, who still owns the brand, and his team took into account how luxury and streetwear are commingling and brought on Matthew Chevallard, the founder of Del Toro, to design the collection, which will be released as mini capsules throughout the year. The Icecream sneakers were originally produced by Reebok.
“We wanted to pay homage to what Pharrell and Nigo created but bring it up to date,” said Chevallard. “We think this can sit alongside brands like Off White, Gucci and Palm Angels. We are also seeing consumers buying more luxury tchotchkes and collector’s items so that will be included in the line.”

Icecream

First up is a capsule that harkens back to Icecream’s diamond and dollars print. The assortment includes a made-in-Italy sneaker with leather laces, a leather-wrapped sole and a gel bottom, a velour slip-on sneaker, suede slides and a trucker hat. The line retails from $195 for the slides to R$350 for the sneakers. The footwear will be sold in clear, acrylic boxes covered with the Icecream logo.
They’ve

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Why Under Armour Collaborated With A$AP Rocky on a Skate Shoe

More than a year after rumors emerged, the Under Armour and A$AP Rocky collaboration is finally available to purchase.
Officially named the AWGE x Under Armour SRLo, the sneaker will be sold today at an experiential pop-up in Harlem. The space, titled AWOL, which was created in partnership with AWGE, A$AP Rocky’s creative agency, and Matte, a creative agency and production company, features four floors.
The basement is dedicated to retail, the first floor is a skate park, the second floor is an AWGE interactive space, and the third floor will host a rave. The shop exemplifies what influenced Rocky when developing the shoe with Dave Mayhew, a former pro skater who helped design the original Osiris D3 20 years ago with Brian Reid. The pop-up will be open to the public from 4 p.m. to midnight.
The skate category is a new world for Under Armour, but they lent Rocky complete creative freedom and tied the shoe back to performance by integrating its Hovr cushioning technology to make it light and comfortable. The shoe retails for $250, one of Under Armour’s most expensive price points, and comes in black along with a black-and-white colorway.
“Rocky is a creative force. He’s like a tornado that

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-accessories/aap-rocky-awge-under-armour-srlo-1202812072/

      

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OVS, Massimo Piombo Unveil New Brand

Italian men’s wear designer Massimo Piombo has a couple of new jobs to add to its résumé.
On Thursday, Italian retailer OVS and the designer launched the new Piombo brand, cutting the ribbon of the label’s first freestanding store here. OVS and Piombo hold a 70 percent and 30 percent stake in the company, respectively.
In addition, the designer, who was named OVS men’s artistic director in March, will expand his role. Stefano Beraldo, OVS chief executive officer, announced that Piombo will take on the creative director post overseeing all the retailer’s lines, which include women’s wear and kid’s wear — a particularly successful segment for OVS according to Beraldo — along with men’s wear.
The fashion direction of the OVS women’s ready-to-wear collections will continue to be led by Caterina Salvador, under Piombo’s guidance.
The first store for the new Piombo brand, which is positioned in the contemporary, affordable luxury segment, is located in the city’s artsy Brera district. The 1,291-square-foot unit will be open for business Sept. 14, along with a second banner in Treviso, in Italy’s Veneto region.

The new Piombo label’s first store in Milan.
MAX ROMMEL

Beraldo noted that he expects to open 15 additional doors for the label by the end

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-fashion/ovs-massimo-piombo-unveil-new-brand-1202811051/

      

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Lathi to Run Daily Operations at Tailored Brands After Ewert’s Departure

Executive board chairman Dinesh Lathi will take over the day-to-day operation of Tailored Brands when Doug Ewert retires as chief executive officer at the end of the month.
The news was revealed during the company’s second-quarter earnings call Wednesday afternoon. Lathi was not named interim ceo, as industry sources had speculated, but will continue to hold his board title while the company conducts “a comprehensive search” for a replacement.
“I am honored and excited to lead the team during the transition process,” Lathi said on the call. “The board has begun a comprehensive search for a new ceo. Our top priority is identifying the best person to lead the company. The board will move forward thoughtfully and will take the time it needs to find the right leader for Tailored Brands.”
He said that when he steps up into the operational role in a few weeks he will be “focused on working with the executive team to accelerate the pace of execution and innovation and our core growth strategies of meeting consumers’ demand for personalization by growing our custom business, strengthening our brands through transformative marketing campaigns, and enhancing our omnichannel capabilities to deliver a superior shopping experience.”
Lathi, 47, is the former ceo of

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Ciongoli’s 18 East Collection Features Artisan Handwork

Antonio Ciongoli knows how things work in fashion — and he’s breaking the rules.
Ciongoli, cofounder of Eidos and one-time deputy creative director of Michael Bastian, on Thursday will unveil his new collection, 18 East, a line of men’s wear created by artisans in India and Nepal.
The line is being financed by RRR Brands, a multibrand platform that acquired the women’s brand Roller Rabbit at the end of 2017. Ciongoli joined RRR Brands as creative director last fall working with Andrew Seibert, who is also founder of the private equity firm Bricker Holdings. Roller Rabbit is also an India-inspired artisan brand.
Since resigning as creative director of Eidos a little over a year ago after a 4.5-year stint, Ciongoli has been working on 18 East. He traveled to India and Nepal and immersed himself in those countries’ handcrafted processes, visiting Jaipur, Delhi and Kathmandu.
The result is a 31-piece collection that incorporates fabrics and techniques that are ingrained in the culture there, including the use of khadi fabric for shirts and outerwear that includes a Mandu jungle jacket with an elaborate Himalayan tapestry textile back panel. Khadi is an entirely handmade cloth that uses no electricity to produce.
He also used kalamkari, a type

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-designer-luxury/ciongolis-18-east-collection-features-artisan-handwork-1202803570/

      

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Sanyo Partnering With Apolis Men’s Brand

Apolis, a socially conscious men’s brand, has inked a deal with Sanyo Shokai to expand the label’s presence in Japan as well as its product offering.
Sanyo will act as a partner, exclusive distributor and licensor for the brand and will oversee production and distribution starting with the spring/summer 2019 season.
As part of the deal, the Apolis e-commerce site will be relaunched, a flagship store will open in Tokyo, the brand will add women’s wear and its men’s wear offering will be expanded.
Creative director Raan Parton will partner with the Sanyo team to design the product, which will be manufactured in the Japanese company’s factories in that country along with Apolis’ network of global artisans rounding out the production.
Collections will be produced globally and will continue to adhere to Apolis’ sustainable standards and environmental conscientiousness. The brand was certified as a B Impact Corporation in 2012, a designation for businesses that meet the highest standards of verified social and environmental performance, public transparency, and legal accountability to balance profit and purpose.
Isao Iwata, president, representative director and chief operating officer of Sanyo, called Apolis “an early adopter of sustainable practices and socially aware production. Sanyo has also been a company with a

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-retail-business/sanyo-partnering-with-apolis-mens-brand-1202792001/

      

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Bonobos to Expand Into Big and Tall

Bonobos is now targeting the big guy.
The Walmart-owned men’s brand today will launch an extended sizes collection that will include everything from suits, dress shirts and neckwear to sport shirts and knitwear.
Brad Andrews, copresident, said expanding into extended sizing “is a natural extension for us. We’re a brand built on better-fitting clothes and we feel this is an underserved market.”
Extended sizing has long been a challenge for most traditional brick-and-mortar retailers since it requires an investment into inventory in a wide range of sizes that may not move quickly. The biggest player in the field is Destination XL, which has more than 340 retail stores and an e-commerce site that sells branded as well as private-label goods.
“The fact that we’re e-commerce gives us an advantage as we’re able to deliver a broader size range,” Andrews said.
A dedicated landing page for the offering will launch today where Bonobos will talk about the details of the collection. It will also be marketed in all stores and store windows as well as in a catalogue that will be mailed this week.
“We spent a lot of time on the details,” Andrews said. For instance, woven shirts have a lowered neck drop, a two-piece sleeve

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-retail-business/bonobos-big-and-tall-offerings-1202790454/

      

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Descente Athletic Collection to Break in U.S. Market

After more than eight decades making its mark in the Asian market, Descente is setting its sights on America.
The Japanese athletic brand has created a wholly owned North American subsidiary, Descente Athletic Americas Inc., that is based in Atlanta, as well as an e-commerce site that will launch today.
Although Descente has sold its Mountain ski collection in the U.S. for some time, this marks the first time its Athletic lifestyle offering will be sold in America.
Fritz Taylor, a 30-year veteran whose résumé includes Nike, Under Armour, Brooks and Mizuno, has been tapped to serve as president of Descente Athletic Americas and to introduce the collection to the U.S. market.
Taylor admitted that when he was approached by Descente to join the company, he wasn’t interested. “The market is so crowded. Do we really need another sportswear brand?” he asked. But he agreed to make the trip to the brand’s Japanese headquarters, where he was impressed by Descente’s craftsmanship and innovation. “I felt like there was something really unique there,” he said, so he agreed to join.
“The sportswear market is at an interesting time where consumers are either gravitating toward disposable fashion or fewer but higher-quality garments,” Taylor added. “Our attitude is

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-sportswear/descente-athletic-collection-to-break-in-u-s-market-1202790435/

      

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Activist Investor Questions Perry Ellis Acquisition Deal

The battle for Perry Ellis International might be heating up again.
On Thursday, Water Island Capital disclosed a 5.5 percent ownership stake in the company and in a Securities and Exchange Commission filing said it “does not believe that the merger consideration” by Feldenkreis Holdings LLC “represents fair value to the Issuer’s shareholders.” It went on to say that it is “considering various options and remedies to maximize the value of its shares in connection with the merger.”
As reported, in mid-August, the Perry Ellis Special Committee ended discussions with Randa Accessories which had submitted a higher $444 million offer for the company and reiterated a commitment to a $437 million transaction it inked with former chief executive officer George Feldenkreis to take the company private. Randa had offered $28.90 a share to Feldenkreis’ $27.50.
The special committee said the decision was a response to news that an inbound licensor would not approve a change in control of the license to Randa should it buy the company. It said the inbound licensor was the company’s largest, leaving speculation that it was Nike Inc., which has a business with Perry Ellis valued at more than $100 million.
Randa’s expertise is in accessories while Perry Ellis manufactures

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-retail-business/activist-investor-questions-perry-ellis-acquisition-deal-1202788943/

      

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Knot Standard to Dress NYCFC Soccer Club

Knot Standard is partnering with the New York City Football Club to become the soccer team’s official provider of pre-game formal attire.
Starting on Sept. 8, prior to NYCFC’s home match against D.C. United, players and coaches will arrive at Yankee Stadium wearing custom suits, manufactured and tailored by the New York-based custom men’s wear brand.
John Ballay, chief executive officer and cofounder of Knot Standard, said, “There is a close connection between sports and fashion, especially in New York, and having NYCFC in our own backyard is the perfect opportunity to showcase soccer and style together.”

The NYCFC will wear Knot Standard when arriving at the stadium.
Brady Robinson

Knot Standard worked with the team’s players and coaches on measurements and fabric selections that are customized but at the same time pay homage to the NYCFC colors and badges.
Ballay said, “The biggest and most compelling aspect of this partnership is that fans will get to see New York City Football Club players and coaches arrive to every home game wearing custom suits from Knot Standard.”
For home games, a lightweight navy wool suit, paired with a crisp white shirt and white pocket square, will have the NYCFC logo and player signature embroidered on the interior. The

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-clothing-furnishings/knot-standard-to-dress-nycfc-soccer-club-1202782927/

      

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Alpha Industries Shifts Marketing Efforts

Alpha Industries has a new marketing plan.
The heritage military brand used to focus on product in its campaigns, but in an attempt to broaden its appeal as a lifestyle brand, Alpha Industries enlisted a group of heroes that work in entertainment, fashion, sports and the military for its Heroes series.
“In the past we were very focused on marketing initiatives that highlighted product,” said Alpha Industries chief executive officer Mike Cirker, whose grandfather Samuel Gelber founded the business as a military outfitter in 1959. “But I think now we are more focused on who our customer is. And who is Alpha and what do we stand for. When we think in those terms it allows us to expand the underlying tenets of the brand and we thought that heroism was a great thing to highlight.”
The campaign, which was released as a video series, features Kiari Kendrell Cephus, also known as Offset of Migos, Public School’s Dao Yi Chow, writer Minya Oh, also known as Miss Info, and Rodolfo Franklin who goes by DJ Clark Kent.
The campaign debuted with a video of Offset, who was filmed with his daughter, detailing the heroes in his life including his grandmother, who died of cancer. That

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Woolrich Repositions Its Branding

Andrea Canè doesn’t want Woolrich to be “vintage” anymore.
Canè, Woolrich’s creative director, and his team want to reposition Woolrich as an inclusive, progressive and diverse brand, which they hope is reflected with their “Woolrich: American Soul Since 1830” campaign, featuring artist Lauryn Hill, who has never appeared in a fashion campaign before.
“We knew that we needed to have an American perspective,” said Canè, who is Italian. “And as an iconic brand, we needed an iconic performer to offer her own testimonial. And Ms. Hill represents an iconic American soul.”
To celebrate the campaign, Hill will perform on Wednesday night with her children, Josh and Selah Marley, Onyx Collective and Team Vicious in New York.
Canè said Hill, who celebrates the 20th anniversary of “The Miseducation of Lauryn Hill” this year, had complete creative control of the campaign, which was styled by Mel Ottenberg and shot by Jack Davison. She wore Woolrich’s staple pieces — the Arctic Parka and the Silverton Coat in a red Buffalo check. Hill updated the pieces with embellishments, text and images of herself. Canè said they’ve made 20 pieces of each style, which will be available for preorder on Sept. 20 and retail from $1,500 to $3,000.
This campaign

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-fashion/woolrich-repositions-branding-1202783782/

      

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Public School’s Next Act

Public School is like a cat with nine lives.
The pioneering streetwear brand, which launched in 2008, has been in and out of the limelight over the past decade as it navigated the vagaries of the fashion industry.
And when it opens the doors to its pop-up with Nike today, it will mark the latest reinvention strategy for the brand.
Last year, Public School collaborated with Nike on a sneaker centered around the Air Force 1. Although the initial design was created for the shoe’s 35th anniversary, it was never released to the public. That will change today when the sneaker will be front and center — along with complimentary apparel — at PSNY’s pop-up space at 3 Howard Street in Manhattan. The shoe will be released globally on Wednesday.
This is the first time Public School has worked with the core Nike collection, although the designers collaborated on the company’s Jordan brand since 2014.
To celebrate the new partnership, the designers and Nike will host a Streetball Classic event on a court on East Houston Street before the store opens to the public tonight.
“We’re doing a basketball tournament in celebration of our AF1 collaboration,” explained Dao-Yi Chow, who designs Public School with Maxwell Osborne. He

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-designer-luxury/public-schools-next-act-1202781853/

      

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Christopher Bates to Sell Men’s Collection to Nordstrom in Canada

Canadian men’s designer Christopher Bates will be celebrating his 10th anniversary with a runway show Tuesday night during Toronto Fashion Week at the same time he reveals a deal with Nordstrom as the brand’s exclusive department store partner in Canada.
“Spring/summer 2019 is by far one of my most technically advanced collections and having it launch with such an iconic retailer as Nordstrom is a dream come true,” said Bates.
The spring collection is inspired by vintage tennis and cycling wear and includes a focus on technical fabrics and modern tailoring. Each piece is created with luxury textiles from Italy and include 3-D textured bomber jackets, jersey travel blazers, colorful knitwear and lightweight jackets and coats.
In addition to ready-to-wear, Bates has a bespoke business, working with a master tailor in Toronto to produce suits, tuxedos, jackets and shirts. For five seasons, Bates has partnered with Canadian specialty retailer Harry Rosen on a shoe collection, which will be rolling out from four to 10 stores next year, and he is creating a line of sneakers in collaboration with MTV that will launch in October 2019. He also produces a line of unisex eyewear. He was tapped to create the uniforms for Air Canada that

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-designer-luxury/christopher-bates-to-sell-mens-collection-to-nordstrom-in-canada-1202782383/

      

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Undefeated Forges Partnership With Esports

Esports is tapping into streetwear.
The gaming league has teamed with Undefeated, a sneaker and streetwear retailer based in Los Angeles, to create a jersey for the New York Excelsior, which is New York City’s first professional eSports franchise. It is one of the 12 founding franchises of Activision Blizzard’s Overwatch League, which is owned by Sterling.VC, a venture capital fund supported by Sterling Equities.
“Excelsior wanted to create a unique approach to team apparel,” said Collette Gangemi, the head of merchandise and consumer products for the New York Excelsior. “Most eSports apparel is semi-juvenile. I was brought on to take more of a streetwear collaboration approach. When you are starting a league in New York and trying to build a community, having apparel that people can buy into helps that.”
Undefeated has worked with EA Sports on an NBA Live 18 event, but this is its first time partnering with eSports. James Bond, the cofounder of Undefeated, sees overlap in the streetwear and gaming communities.
“Most of today’s sneakerheads have grown up computer-savvy and for a lot of the kids, playing games is second nature to them. Even my son, who is 11, is starting to get into video games. This isn’t just

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-lifestyle/undefeated-forges-partnership-with-esports-1202780968/

      

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Destination XL Narrows Losses in Second Quarter

Destination XL Group cut its losses in the second quarter as comparable-store sales rose and a spring advertising campaign paid dividends.
In the period ended Aug. 4, the Canton, Mass.-based big and tall men’s retailer said losses fell to $1.2 million, or 2 cents a diluted share, from $3.7 million, or 8 cents a share, in the same quarter last year. Comparable-store sales rose 3.3 percent in the period while total sales rose 0.9 percent to $122.1 million, up from $121.1 million last year.
On a non-GAAP basis, adjusted net income for the second quarter was 1 cent a diluted share, as compared to adjusted net loss of 3 cents a diluted share for the prior-year second quarter. Adjusted earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization for the second quarter was $8.8 million compared to $6.7 million in the prior-year quarter.
David Levin, president and chief executive officer, noted that this was the third consecutive quarter of comparable-store sales growth for the 343-unit chain. “The performance was broad-based across channels and all regions of the country and was achieved with 8.4 percent less inventory than we had a year ago. This was another quarter of successful execution against our strategic initiatives and we are well positioned for continued progress

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-retail-business/destination-xl-narrows-losses-in-second-quarter-1202780833/

      

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Ewert Departure Seen as His Decision, but Firm Ready for Next Chapter

It was Doug Ewert’s choice to leave Tailored Brands, but his departure as chief executive officer is also seen as an opportunity to get some fresh blood into the company.
That was the consensus of the men’s wear community on Wednesday as they continued to digest the surprise news late Tuesday that the longtime leader of the Fremont, Calif.-based company would be exiting at the end of September. Ewert, 54, said after the market closed on Tuesday that he would be retiring after a 23-year career with the men’s wear retailer.
Wall Street was apparently not rattled by the news since the company’s stock rose 4 percent Wednesday to close at $23.39.
On Wednesday, Ewert told WWD he would be open to providing more details about his decision and future plans after the company’s earnings are released on Sept. 12.
Coincidentally, the news of Ewert’s impending departure came at the same time Bruce Thorn, president and chief operating officer, said he too would be leaving Tailored Brands. Thorn, 51, has been named president and ceo of Big Lots Inc. He will assume that role at the end of September.
Once both Ewert and Thorn are gone next month, that leaves Tailored Brands without its two

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-retail-business/ewert-departure-seen-as-his-decision-but-firm-ready-for-next-chapter-1202779782/

      

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Mike Amiri Details Retail Strategy

Mike Amiri’s Los Angeles-based line is only four and a half years old, but he already considers brands such as Prada and Gucci his peers. And because of this, he thought it was important to debut his fall 2018 collection, which he calls his most comprehensive, fully realized effort so far, in Paris instead of the U.S.
“I believe there is new space for independent brands in the context of luxury to have a voice,” Amiri said. “Before there were so many different walls. But playing on that stage is important and it shows the collection in the context of brands who I consider peers. We only sell to shops where we are adjacent to these brands.”
Amiri was speaking on the phone from Tokyo where he’s recently opened a pop-up within Restir, an independent boutique, that will sell his fall 2018 collection along with a capsule that he created in collaboration with Warner Bros., which is inspired by the Eighties movie the “The Lost Boys.”
“Restir is one of the few accounts we sell to in Japan and I like that it’s an independent shop that’s off the beaten path,” Amiri said. “I thought it was time to have more of a presence

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Via:: https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-retail-business/mike-amiri-retail-fashion-line-strategy-1202780322/

      

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