Beauty Headlines

The best deep conditioners for hair

By Sali Hughes

Dry summer hair will lap these up gratefully

I have a very narrow window when I’m keen to test deep conditioners on my hair. In winter, spring and autumn, it responds to rich conditioner like a weeping willow does to a biblical downpour. But in summer, when it gets drier and straw-like, it soaks up the right product gratefully while managing to keep some bounce.

My conditioning mask of choice has mostly been Philip Kingsley’s Elasticizer (£18, 75ml; various, delicious-smelling “flavours”), and I still think it’s excellent some 20 years after first using it (it’s been around for ever – it was formulated by the late trichologist for Audrey Hepburn). Its suggested application – coat the hair, leave for 20 minutes or overnight, then shampoo off – means that my fine hair still feels clean, not waxy, post-treatment, but it also works wonderfully on thick and coarse hair (who may prefer the “Extreme” formula at the same price).

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Via:: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/jul/21/best-deep-conditioners-for-hair-sali-hughes

      

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Jean-Marc Plisson to Exit Shiseido, Joining Tatcha

Jean-Marc Plisson, president of Shiseido’s Beauty Prestige Group, is heading to skin-care brand Tatcha as chief executive officer, WWD has learned.
Plisson will join Tatcha in mid-September, sources said, after finishing his time at Shiseido Aug. 31. Tatcha founder Vicky Tsai is remaining with the company.
Shiseido declined to comment for this story.

Jean-Marc Plisson
Stephen Leek/WWD

At Shiseido, where he was appointed in October 2016 to head the newly created Beauty Prestige Group, Plisson has been overseeing Shiseido, the company’s designer fragrances and Laura Mercier. Before joining Shiseido, Plisson was global chief executive officer of Fresh Inc. He’s also spent time at other LVMH Möet Hennessy Louis Vuitton brands, including Dior, Givenchy, Guerlain and Aqua Di Parma.
Plisson’s appointment at Tatcha comes after the brand took a minority investment from Castanea Partners in October.
The business, founded by Tsai, makes skin-care products inspired by rituals of the geisha. Tsai started the business in 2009 after discovering geisha rituals on a trip to Kyoto that helped clear up her acute dermatitis. Eventually she found a book filled with the geishas’ skin-care and makeup rituals that inspires the company’s product line. Recent launches include The Pearl, a tinted eye-illuminating treatment, $48, and The Silk Canvas Protective Primer, $52.

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Via:: https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/beauty-features/jean-marc-plisson-to-exit-shiseido-joining-tatcha-1202762760/

      

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Tmall Global Encourages Italian Beauty Brands to Enter the Chinese Market

MILAN — Italian beauty labels Kiko Milano, Deborah Group and Diego dalla Palma Group’s namesake line and RVB Lab brand have joined Alibaba Group’s Tmall Global marketplace.
The partnership was officially launched here Friday during Tmall and its consumer-trend division Tmall Discovery’s first European conference, dubbed “The Colors of Italian Beauty.”
Held at the city’s Teatro Vetra venue, the conference saw Alibaba’s senior management illustrating to 300 European cosmetic operators the trends and business opportunities the Chinese market can offer through the example of the four, recently-added Italian beauty players.
During the event, these companies staged a fashion show and installed booths to present their latest products, physically and through on-site screens and apps — such as the Magic Mirror — enabling attendees to try the makeup items digitally.
This represented only one of the digital implementations offered by Alibaba in its “New Retail” approach to business, which combines the best strategies of online, off-line and social media channels to enhance its customers’ shopping experience and enable the companies adopting it to track users’ preferences.
“We aim to be more digital and experiment with new technologies to offer customized products and shopping experiences,” said Kiko’s chief executive officer Cristina Scocchia, underscoring that making makeup “accessible

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Via:: https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/beauty-features/tmall-global-encourages-italian-beauty-brands-enter-chinese-market-1202762671/

      

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Tmall Global Encourages Italian Beauty Brands to Enter the Chinese Market

MILAN — Italian beauty labels Kiko Milano, Deborah Group and Diego dalla Palma Group’s namesake line and RVB Lab brand have joined Alibaba Group’s Tmall Global marketplace.
The partnership was officially launched here Friday during Tmall and its consumer-trend division Tmall Discovery’s first European conference, dubbed “The Colors of Italian Beauty.”
Held at the city’s Teatro Vetra venue, the conference saw Alibaba’s senior management illustrating to 300 European cosmetic operators the trends and business opportunities the Chinese market can offer through the example of the four, recently-added Italian beauty players.
During the event, these companies staged a fashion show and installed booths to present their latest products, physically and through on-site screens and apps — such as the Magic Mirror — enabling attendees to try the makeup items digitally.
This represented only one of the digital implementations offered by Alibaba in its “New Retail” approach to business, which combines the best strategies of online, off-line and social media channels to enhance its customers’ shopping experience and enable the companies adopting it to track users’ preferences.
“We aim to be more digital and experiment with new technologies to offer customized products and shopping experiences,” said Kiko’s chief executive officer Cristina Scocchia, underscoring that making makeup “accessible

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Via:: https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/beauty-features/tmall-global-encourages-italian-beauty-brands-enter-chinese-market-1202762671/

      

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Why does Burberry destroy its products and how is it justified?

By Morwenna Ferrier Assistant fashion editor

News that British fashion label destroyed £28m of clothes and cosmetics has raised questions

Burberry has destroyed more than £28m of its fashion and cosmetic products over the past year to guard against counterfeiting. The news earlier this week raised several questions about the British fashion label’s practice.

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Via:: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/jul/20/why-does-burberry-destroy-its-products-q-and-a

      

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Why does Burberry destroy its products and how is it justified?

By Morwenna Ferrier Assistant fashion editor

News that British fashion label destroyed £28m of clothes and cosmetics has raised questions

Burberry has destroyed more than £28m of its fashion and cosmetic products over the past year to guard against counterfeiting. The news earlier this week raised several questions about the British fashion label’s practice.

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Via:: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/jul/20/why-does-burberry-destroy-its-products-q-and-a

      

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One-piece wonders: why swimsuits have put bikinis in the shade

By Morwenna Ferrier

More modest costumes that can be worn both off and on the beach are the hot ticket

This is the summer of the swimsuit, with sales of one-pieces currently surpassing sales of bikinis across the board. On the high street, a spike in sales at Primark has been explained by a demand for swimsuits, among other seasonal things. At Net-a-Porter, sales of one-piece swimsuits have seen 27% year-on-year growth. According to new brand Les Girls Les Boys, the percentage for sales is roughly 60% swimsuits versus 40% bikinis.

Ever a reliable yardstick, social media is in step with the retail industry, with ‘saves’ of one-piece swimsuits up 132% on Pinterest year on year. That’s more than for bikinis, cut-outs, or the polarising swimkinis (micro swimsuits) as seen on Love Island.

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Via:: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/jul/20/one-piece-wonders-why-swimsuits-have-put-bikinis-in-the-shade

      

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How to wear: a denim jacket

By Jess Cartner-Morley

The denim jacket is fundamentally unimprovable, so never really changes, which is brilliant

This is not about whether you should buy a denim jacket; you already have one. Check the boot of the car. Or that overloaded coat hook by the back door. Told you! The only reason you wouldn’t have one is if you listened to misguided people who tell you to detox your wardrobe and get rid of all the useful stuff in favour of obscure capsule “pieces” that are then deemed over six months later.

The denim jacket is the opposite of a statement jacket. It is so far from being a “piece” that it’s almost invisible, in the same way that a pair of jeans almost disappears from view in a fashion context. It is functional and familiar and essential. You take for granted that it will be there when you need it, like ketchup for your fish and chips. The denim jacket is fundamentally unimprovable, so never really changes, which is brilliant, except that means it never feels terrifically exciting.

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Via:: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/jul/20/how-to-wear-denim-jacket-jess-cartner-morley

      

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Influence Peddler: Sarah Boyd Gives a Voice to Tastemakers

Sarah Boyd began her career in fashion public relations, but she soon realized her passion was connecting people trying to jump-start their careers in the industry.
In 2012, she left her job with the goal to start a company bringing together behind-the-scene experts — stylists, bloggers and others — who she felt had a voice, but needed an avenue to get a leg up in the industry. Her company, Simply, hosted its first conference with about 750 influencers and industry leaders. Fast forward to today and there are several events held across the globe attracting more than 1,200 attendees.
A second component of Simply is helping grow the digital footprint of celebrities, bloggers and content providers. The Digital Network roster includes Alessandra Ambrosio, Audrina Patridge, Lauren Bushnell and Brandi Cyrus. The goal is to help manage digital content from assistance in everything from creating blogs to monetizing influencer campaigns.
In 2017, Nylon Media acquired Simply. Boyd holds the title of president of West Coast operations for Nylon, as well as founder of Simply.
Here she talks about what can go wrong with influencer campaigns, why celebrities want to up their social media imprint and why there’s a deluge of social-content developed beauty brands.
WWD: What

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Via:: https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/beauty-features/sarah-boyd-gives-a-voice-to-tastemakers-1202762246/

      

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Winky Lux to Open Insta-Friendly Experience Stores

Millennial makeup brand Winky Lux is gearing up for its next whimsical experience.
The brand, which houses items in floral packaging and makes products like Disco Gloss ($14), is readying to open a series of stores that take the experiential aspect of Instagram-friendly adventures like 29Rooms, Dream Machine or the Museum of Ice Cream into retail.
“It’s hard to get people to come to retail,” said Natalie Mackey, chief executive officer of Winky Lux. “People want to come…for the experiences.”

Winky Lux Matcha Balm
Matt_Coch

The first Winky Lux Experience Store will open Aug. 8 in New York at West Broadway and Prince, and stay open for six months. Tickets, $10, go on sale today on the brand’s web site. Winky Lux is planning for between five and 10 people to go through the space at a time to avoid overcrowding, and buying a ticket reserves one’s place in line, Mackey noted. The $10 can be redeemed in the retail component of the store for products. That retail section is open to all — tickets or no tickets — for shopping.
The site will feature seven rooms that combine products with experience. One, for example, pairs Winky Lux’s Matcha Balm with a Matcha Zen Garden. Other

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Via:: https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/beauty-features/winky-lux-to-open-insta-friendly-experience-stores-1202761570/

      

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Influence Peddler: Brooklyn and Bailey McKnight on Their YouTube Come Up

Identical twins Brooklyn and Bailey McKnight are growing up on YouTube.
The Texas duo began their digital footprint as hair models on their mother’s channel, Cute Girls Hairstyles, and in 2013, launched a channel of their own. Now with more than five million subscribers, the 19-year-olds are capitalizing on their followings with a mascara launch and a collaboration with Arizona at J.C. Penney.
“Our whole life we’ve been asked what mascara we use because we got blessed with good lashes,” Bailey said. “We spent two years in the creation process of making this picture-perfect mascara for an everyday girl and now we absolutely love it.”
Called Lash Next Door, the mascara launched on the twins’ official web site in May. Priced at $18 with free shipping, the product is made of two formulas — one for lengthening, one for volume — and is free of TEA, DEA, parabens, sulfates and phthalates.
The twins funded production with the help of their subscribers through Indiegogo, and are donating a percentage of the sales to the United Nations’ Girl Up campaign, for which they serve as celebrity ambassadors.
Brooklyn and Bailey also serve as brand ambassadors for J.C. Penney. Last week they unveiled a collaboration with Arizona on

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Via:: https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/beauty-features/brooklyn-bailey-mcknight-youtube-influencers-1202760136/

      

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Cosmetica Italia Releases Positive Projections for Italian Beauty Business

MILAN — Cosmetica Italia, the Italian association of cosmetics companies, is forecasting a positive scenario for the industry this year.
According to figures and projections released on Thursday by the association’s newly elected president Renato Ancorotti, the Italian cosmetics industry is expected to see revenues increase 4.5 percent to 11.5 billion euros in 2018 compared to the previous year.
Projections also see exports climbing 8 percent to reach 5 billion euros, while the trade balance will reach the record amount of 2.7 billion euros, even with imports increasing 1.9 percent in 2018.
Ancorotti underscored the industry’s performance will be boosted by new distribution channels, which are shifting and impacting the sales of cosmetic goods on a national scale, and the performance of Italian supply companies, whose revenues totaled 1.5 billion euros last year and will further increase by 10 percent in 2018. Exports remain a major force for said companies, as Italian suppliers produce 67 percent of the total makeup distributed across Europe.
Regarding the distribution, the mass market covers 41 percent of the national cosmetic market and its sales are expected to further grow by 1 percent to 4.2 billion euros this year.
Sales in professional hair and beauty saloons will continue to increase

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Via:: https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/beauty-features/cosmetica-italia-positive-projections-italian-beauty-business-1202761854/

      

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Avon Partners With Kenzo Takada on a Second Fragrance

THAT MAKES SCENTS: Avon is bolstering its fragrance portfolio with the launch of Avon Life Colour in collaboration with Kenzo Takada. This is the second time Takada has partnered with Avon.
In 2016, the two collaborated on a fragrance called Avon Life, which Avon said broke the company’s sales records with the highest sales for a fragrance in the first quarter after its launch.
“One of my greatest inspirations has always been the power of colors since it is a universal language and impacts how we feel,” said Takada.
“This beautiful collaboration with Avon allowed me to capture, in a scent, the colorful spirit of positivity that we need so much nowadays,” he said of the unisex fragrance created by master perfumers Frank Voelkl and Olivier Cresp.
Avon Life Colour marks the company’s biggest launch since the appointment of Jan Zijderveld, a 30-year Unilever veteran, who succeeded Sheri McCoy as chief executive officer. Zijderveld was appointed to execute strategic change at the company including its new cost-cutting program.
The fragrance will be backed by a large marketing campaign including traditional advertising and a dedicated announcement with Takada during Paris Fashion Week where the brand shows.
“We’re incredibly excited about the potential of this new fragrance and

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Via:: https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/fragrance/avon-partners-kenzo-takada-second-fragrance-1202761829/

      

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Alchemy 43 Hammers Out Growth Strategy

Alchemy 43 is adding two locations in Los Angeles, with plans to expand its accessible approach to microtreatments and injectables soon to Manhattan. The blueprint for growth includes 10 new stores in 2019 on the way to 50 within the next six years.
Next month, the aesthetics bar’s third and fourth sites will open in Santa Monica and West Hollywood. New York is on the radar for the fall, along with plans for Orange County, Dallas and the San Francisco Bay Area.
Often dubbed the Drybar of Botox, Alchemy 43’s growth comes at a pivotal time for noninvasive procedures. According to Market Research Future, the dermal fillers market is expected to grow at an annual rate of 12.6 percent through 2022. Alchemy 43, which takes its name from the number of muscles in the face, specializes in neuromodulators, such as Botox and Dysport, and fillers, such as Juvederm and Restylane. Services are administered by a professional team of aesthetic experts and licensed certified professionals. Dr. Shalini Kapoor, an Oculoplastic surgeon, recently joined as national medical director, bringing about 20 years of experience in the medical aesthetics field.
“The market perception is changing; consumers are becoming more accepting of these microtreatments as part of

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Via:: https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/beauty-features/alchemy-43-growth-strategy-1202761382/

      

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When It Comes to Beauty, It’s an Influencer’s World

Beauty brands are being forced to rethink their digital strategies — all thanks to influencers.
A study released today by Launchmetrics, “Beauty Redefined,” looks at the leading voices in the beauty, fashion and luxury spaces. Media remains the most prominent voice across the fashion and luxury categories, but when it comes to beauty, influencers have emerged as dominant.
“Influencer marketing is the process of collaboration between brand marketers and influential content creators who have organically built an audience of consumers,” said Michael Jaïs, chief executive officer of Launchmetrics. “The result of this collaboration is original content in a form of photo, video or social conversations that authentically integrates a brand’s message. This content is communicated by the influencers across their various media channels and often used by brands in other forms of advertising as a credible reference.”
The report defines the three major types of beauty influencers as vloggers, celebrities and makeup artists. It also categorizes influencers by following size. Micro-influencers have a following of 10,000 to 100,000. Medium influencer followings begin at the 100,000 mark, with macro-influencers starting at 500,000 and mega-influencers at 2 million.
Launchmetrics found that beauty influencers are generally less loyal to one specific brand than fashion or luxury ones. Beauty influencer Tati Westbrook, for

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Via:: https://wwd.com/beauty-industry-news/beauty-features/influencers-changing-beauty-digital-landscape-1202760603/

      

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