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Bottega Veneta Resort 2018

Considerations about the weather and different consumer behavior were top of mind for Bottega Veneta creative director Tomas Maier in designing the brand’s cruise collection. “It’s totally changed now. Women like to see clothes in season — when it’s cold they want a coat — and they shop in a different way compared with the past. You see it on daily store results,” said Maier during a walk-through in Milan. “They have different priorities and time is luxury number one for everyone.”
As the months progress, from the early deliveries of the cruise season in October until the later ones in December, so does the weight and colors of clothes change from, say, a ribbed turtleneck sweater in lilac worn with a suede skirt suit in a contrasting rusty color, to lighter tech duchesse skirts or a studded poplin dress with a full circle skirt fit for the festive season, for parties and “going away,” Maier opined. “The darker and shorter the days, women want something uplifting, colorful and appealing, if nature can’t give it to them.”
To wit, Maier opted for unusual combinations and variations of colors and “a bit of eccentricity,” he said, but also monochromatic designs, as in a

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Flagpole Resort 2018

Flagpole’s resort 2018 collection made a case that signature swimsuits in an updated colorway, paired with stunning visuals, make for a fresh collection. From designers Jaime Barker and Megan Balch, the line features figure-flattering swimwear with pristine tailoring. For their new collection, the seasoned designers created an array of swimwear and beach ready-to-wear in a fall-inspired palette of muted and soft maroons and blues. Shot at La Muralla Roja in Alicante, Spain, the location perfectly embodied the spirit and palette of the collection. The new hues were introduced to their signature color-blocked design on both classic and new styles. Standout shapes include a backless one-piece, underwire one-piece and a cropped rash-guard with inside shelf bra. The girls also brought back the front tie style and applied it to a strapless one-piece. Rtw that successfully translates from beach to street includes chic maroon, side-slit palazzo pants; quick-dry trouser boardshorts, and an array of cover-up-esque skirts and knit tops.

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Etro Resort 2018

In keeping with its signature folk-chic attitude, Etro celebrated the flamboyant, vibrant aesthetic of the African continent for resort.
Images of monkeys, leopards and luscious flowers, as well as tribal graphic patterns, mixed and matched with the brand’s signature paisley, were juxtaposed in a joyful patchwork explosion. Veronica Etro balanced the abundance of patterns, all rendered through the most exquisite artisanal techniques, with the chic, linear silhouettes of fluid silk cabans, roomy pants, as well as foulard-inspired feminine dresses. While she avoided taking the inspiration too literally, the designer trimmed the necklines of frocks and coats with sweet crochet details recalling African beaded decorations. These were also echoed in the embellishments of a Lurex and chiffon maxidress featuring a jacquard motif reminiscent of the graphics of the Art Nouveau movement. Infused with a highly sophisticated appeal, this collection offered a rich, new take on Etro’s iconic hyper-decorative attitude.

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Mary Katrantzou Pre-Fall 2017

The designer looked to playing cards — in all their colorful, patterned glory — for this collection filled with classic shapes meant for a range of climates, and a riot of swirls, hearts, leaves and florets.
There was a big focus on daywear, including a sweet jacquard minidress with chunky pearls dotted around the neckline. A Forties-style one with a pussy bow and ruching on the bodice had floral and leaf patterns while a loose printed shirt dress had a scarf hemline.
There were more languid dresses, too, made for poolside cocktails, including a long sleeveless jacquard one with swirling patterns, another with long sleeves and a curling leaf pattern done in red, white and navy. Other silk dresses were printed with abstract ladies’ hands — their nails painted red — holding a set of cards.
For cooler climes, Katrantzou designed tweedy dresses and jackets with flower-shaped buttons dotted down the front, and fox fur stoles in intense shades of royal blue or orangey-red.

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Alexander McQueen Pre-Fall 2017

Creative director Sarah Burton’s collection was all about female power, both creative and physical, with a collection inspired by the British artist and sculptor Barbara Hepworth and by medieval armor and heraldry.
There were eagle, griffin and mystical embroideries on long chiffon dresses, while others resembled tapestries and a silvery pleated one recalled shining armor. Many were accessorized with leather corset belts or long falconry gloves.
The Hepworth aesthetic came through in color and texture – which contrasted with the medieval flourish. The color palette took in gesso, stone and bone, the latter tone was best expressed through a long and dramatic leather topcoat.
One pleated dress had deep V-neck and a marble print, while another was done in cream devoré velvet. Accessories included a necklace with a large stone at the center (inspired by the one Hepworth wore), flat booties and pebble-shaped clutch bags.

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Dior RTW Resort 2018

For Maria Grazia Chiuri’s first cruise collection for Dior, the house created no less than a “Wizard of Oz” moment. Toto, we’re not in Los Angeles anymore.
Technically the show wasn’t in L.A. — it was in Calabasas, the tony suburb in the Valley with famous residents such as the Kardashians. But when guests arrived at the actual venue, shuttled by a military grade supply of SUVs up a dirt mountain road in the Upper Las Virgenes Canyon Open Space Preserve, and then by a smaller fleet of Gators, they might have thought they were on safari in the desert hills. The only thing “Hollywood” about the location in the Santa Monica Mountains was that it resembled a big budget movie set, strewn with retro trailers and modernist tents pitched around piles of pillows, benches and woven carpets. Waiters kept the Moet flowing. Two hot air balloons floating in the background bore the words Dior Sauvage, and as did a sign erected on a hilltop yonder in a nod to the iconic Hollywood sign.
To see the celebrities in the front row, click here.
To see the scene backstage, click here.
“I was happy to find the location — it was not so easy,” said Chiuri in the

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G-Star Raw Fall 2017 and Pre-Spring 2018

Amsterdam-based denim brand G-Star Raw hosted its fall and pre-spring 2018 presentation, showcasing their latest styles in an installation and model format. Their New York headquarters was divided up into four rooms, each one dedicated to elements of the process or styles they wanted to highlight. These were: the Elwood (one of their most popular, which fuses biker and workwear elements); the Denim Fit Zone, the Innovation Zone, and the G Star Elwood X25II (which is the pant styles curated and designed by Pharrell Williams).
“The brand has been around for little bit under 30 years, the way that we design has not changed, we use a design philosophy called hybrid design where we take two existing archetypes and we clash them together making something new and that starts in our headquarters in Amsterdam where we have a gigantic archive,” said Sean Peron, their head of brand strategy. ” This archive is primarily men’s wear garments and utility garments, and if you look back this is because it was men working back then…for us is important to take these men’s wear inspired garments and bring them to modern life and to women,” said Rebekka Bach, head of women’s design.
Military green jeans gathered

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Steven Alan RTW Fall 2017

For fall, Steven Alan’s approach started off pragmatic. “We definitely wanted to have an increased penetration of our brand in the store, so the starting point for me was the shirt,” he said at his presentation.
Alan started off by looking at female icons and how they wore their shirts — Patti Smith stood out. “We went into that era and we picked up on a lot of the jewel tones that were prevalent at that time and the texture, like corduroy, paisley prints, pajama plaids and permanent pleating,” he said.
The resulting lineup felt casual yet inspired. As Alan pointed out, the shirts were the prevailing item — ranging from silky pussy bow blouses to a memorable burgundy with black dot pleated peasant top.
Denim was also important, as he offered patched tops and classic jackets as well as non-stretchy relaxed fit bottoms. The denim highlight: a tied robe jacket version. Knits were also noteworthy — rendered in substantial heavy yarns or superfine versions that could almost pass for T-shirts. “A lot of the factories that we were working with to me could be best-in-class in producing what we were going for, that’s very important. A lot of times with collections the

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Fleur du Mal RTW Fall 2017

Big things are happening for Fleur du Mal designer Jennifer Zuccarini. In 2016, Zuccarini was inducted to the CFDA, and for fall 2017, she’s launching Fleur du Mal’s first full ready-to-wear collection.
With four years of creating beautiful, lingerie-focused collections under her belt, Zuccarini knew the line was ready for the next step. “It all started with the silky suit,” Zuccarini explained. “After doing a lot of slipdresses and feminine pieces, I was craving to do tailoring.” The refined collection successfully embodies Fleur du Mal’s effortless sensuality with soft, silky and smart suiting pieces that can be layered over signature intimates, slipdresses and bodysuits. To add to the men’s wear look, Zuccarini successfully introduced Prince of Wales to the collection à la structured bodysuit with matching suit pant and a lace-trimmed slipdress. Standout pieces included outerwear silhouettes, such as a light pink, velvet bomber and trenchcoat, and a red silk bomber.

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Zuhair Murad Bridal Spring 2018

Zuhair Murad knows how to make a beautifully ornate dress, showing in his latest bridal offering the type of lavish embroidery and sensuality found in his other collections. He was inspired this season by the Jardim Botanico in Rio de Janeiro, working in themes of lush gardens, florals and imaginary birds via tulle and chiffon confections, crystal and pearl embroideries, and a romantic lightness in silhouettes. There was a sense of daring with the introduction of a hand-beaded body-hugging jumpsuit, styled with a voluminous removable overskirt with the magical effect of elevating any slim gown.

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