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Netflix Nixes ‘Girlboss’ Series

PARTING WAYS: The much buzzed about “Girlboss” Netflix series starring Britt Robertson and chronicling the rise of Nasty Gal has been canceled after its first season.
The news was revealed on Instagram Stories where Nasty Gal founder and former chief executive Sophia Amoruso herself disclosed the news to followers.
The show aimed to capture Amoruso just before she founded the Los Angeles-based e-tailer as well chronicle its rise. The show debuted in April and was written by Kay Cannon, whose credits include “30 Rock” and “New Girl,” with Charlize Theron serving as executive producer.
Amoruso later posted another message on Instagram Stories, countering an article that implied she had criticized her own show with the announcement when she expressed the opportunity to be had in moving forward to tell her own story.
“I absolutely loved the show and am so sad it’s over,” she wrote. “I am grateful for it all. But how a website can conflate ‘throwing shade’ with saying that a woman is excited to own her narrative after bankruptcy headlines, false lawsuits and a dramatized series is created (which I will repeat: I loved and am proud of) is bonkers….”
In real life, Amoruso paved the way for many born-online brands with

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Paris Cocktail Celebrates Willy Vanderperre’s Fanzine

‘ZINE SCENE: The fifth and sixth releases of Willy Vanderperre’s 12-issue fanzine, called /12 that’s being done throughout one year in association with Idea Books, was celebrated in Paris on Saturday evening.
Fans of the photographer and the two models — Kiki Willems and Jonas Gloer — who feature in the editions flocked to the Comme des Garçons Trading Museum Paris for the event. That’s also where the publication was launched exclusively prior to being introduced worldwide and online starting July 1.
Just 300 copies of each issue are available, and every one in the series, each of which features one model — such as Julia Nobis, Clément Chabernard and Abbey Lee — has followed the same format. This includes a double-page spread shot with a flash of the person wearing makeup; a photo of a detail of the model, usually their ear, and a loose-leaf format. It’s almost Hockney-eque in its multifaceted perspective and approach.
“He builds a portrait of the person rather than the model,” said David Owen, a cofounder of Idea Books, which has worked on numerous projects with Vanderperre. Owen added that often there is a waiting list of 300 people for each edition of /12.
“I don’t think there

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Paris Kicks Its Heels Off at Birkenstock

HAPPY FEET: It was the perfect day to be wearing Birkenstocks. With Paris in gridlock thanks to the conjoined influence of its 2024 bid to host the Summer Olympic Games and the Gay Pride parade, the fashion set spent much of their day on foot.
“I don’t know if we’re part of fashion, but we’re part of the fashion industry,” chief executive officer Oliver Reichert said. “So here we are in Paris, having some drinks and having a nice time.”
The comfortable footwear brand invited one and all to step away from the hectic pace in a temporary Orangerie set-up in the Tuileries Garden, complete with soothing pebbled rivers, grassy stretches, the newly launched natural cosmetics and the comfortable beds it also produces, and, of course, the full footwear range Birkenstock has to offer.
On display was an array of styles, from the Red Dot Design Award-winning extruded EVA to the classic two-buckle designs to more unexpected ones, such as a knee-high hiking boot.
Top of the class were models that fused past and future with tech-looking materials dressing the traditional cork foot bed; colored outsoles, metallic leather uppers and new buckle shapes, and studded styles, particularly tricky to execute as the metal needed

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Kilomètre Paris Looks to Vintage Workwear

HAVE SHIRT, WILL TRAVEL: Alexandra Senes is not lacking in inspiration for her travel-themed brand, Kilomètre Paris. The editor-turned-designer has expanded her offering of vintage men’s shirts embellished with embroidery channeling travel destinations, t0 50 locales from 20 since it launched just three seasons ago.
But finding sufficient stock of “liquettes” — the 19th-century shirts from the South of France she uses to make them — is proving more of a challenge as demand grows, said Senes at the opening of a pop-up space at L’Eclaireur’s Rue Boissy d’Anglas store Thursday evening.
“I need to find disused stock, it’s quite challenging — let me know if you have any leads,” said Senes, who found the original item that inspired the brand’s creation at a flea market.
As such, she is diversifying to new categories. Cushions, scarves and bags are already part of the mix.
For fall, Senes is adding a range based on traditional French blue workwear, or “bleu de travail,” that will launch in September. “I found an old stock of it,” she explained.
Kilomètre Paris’ shirts are embroidered by hand, some taking as long as six weeks to adorn, and each is accompanied by a “passport” describing the destination by which it was

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Stars of Theater, Ballet Align in Balmain Spring 2018 Front Row

DOUBLE DAZZLE: At Balmain, the French stars of ballet and theater competed with the designs of Olivier Rousteing for the audience’s attention as he showcased a very Gallic collection in the gilded décor of the hotel Potocki.
Fresh from the performance of “Renaissance”, a 27-minute ballet for 16 dancers to a violin concerto by Mendelssohn and written by Sébastien Bertaud, principal dancer Dorothée Gilbert, one of the “étoiles” of the Paris Opera, was a vision of grace in a Balmain creation, an emerald green draped jumpsuit. “You can dance easily in Balmain, and the costumes catch the light beautifully. The weight did take a few rehearsals to get used to,” the prima ballerina said. “Unfortunately, the costume department kept everything. I could so see myself in that little bolero jacket with a white tee and jeans. I should have made a run for it when I was wearing it!”
Off the stage, she is to appear onscreen as Emma, a ballerina in “L’Essence d’une Etoile,” a short film with Catherine Deneuve and Pierre Deladonchamps. Having been submitted to several festivals and picked up for broadcasting by France 3, one of France’s public service channels, it serves as a teaser for a feature-length

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Front Row at Dior Homme Men’s Spring 2018

Jamie Bell kept a cool head despite heavy police reinforcements around the Grand Palais venue of the Dior Homme show on Saturday. The roads around the site had been blocked off due to a series of promotional events around Paris’ bid to host the 2024 Olympics. But he’s had good training. The actor in his latest film, “6 Days,” plays a member of the SAS, Britain’s counter-terrorism unit, that went in on the Iranian Embassy siege that took place in London in 1980. “It was a very specific moment in British history where Margaret Thatcher wanted to flex her military muscle.”
Christian Slater was taking in the intriguing show set, with fresh grass underfoot and rows of curtains of glistening black tape overhead. “An interesting choice, but it’s cooler in here. I’m looking forward to seeing what kind of characters come out.”
Dressed in a gray suit and sneakers, the “Mr. Robot” star said he’ll soon be heading to London to rehearse for a play in the West End due to open in September, which is still under wraps. “The stage is definitely my first love, and it’s one of the classics, a dream-come-true situation,” he teased.
Asked if he was into fashion, he

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Swizz Beatz Accuses Balenciaga of Copying Ruff Ryders Shirt

DEJA VU: Balenciaga is the latest Kering brand to be faced with accusations of plagiarism.
Music producer Swizz Beatz has accused the French fashion house of ripping off a shirt produced by Ruff Ryders, the record label founded by his uncles and aunt, in its latest men’s collection.

An Instagram post from Swizz Beatz.

This comes after Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele was criticized for including a copy of a puff-sleeve bomber jacket designed by Harlem tailor Dapper Dan in its cruise 2018 collection. The brand later issued a statement describing the look as an “homage.”
Two other artists have since come forward claiming their designs were also copied by Gucci in the show. A Gucci spokesperson said the brand was in contact with the artists.
On his Instagram account, Swizz Beatz posted an image from Wednesday’s Balenciaga show with the caption: “@balenciaga we must have a talk about this Ruff Ryder shirt ASAP 🤔 Dapper Dan with Gucci now this 🤔 thoughts ?????? Blessings.”
He also posted a version of the original shirt, which bears strong similarities to the Balenciaga version. The stylized “R” on the original shirt has been altered into a “B” and the name across it from “Ruff Ryders” to “Balenciaga”. A

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Front Row at Berluti Men’s Spring 2018

INNER CIRCLE: Heading the Haider Ackermann fan club at the Berluti show on Friday, held in the courtyard of the Monnaie de Paris, was Olga Berluti. Mingling with guests before the show, Berluti said she was very touched by the changes afoot in the brand she helmed for decades.
“Haider is a true artist in my opinion, and he understands the spirituality of Berluti, the soul of our clientele,” she said. “In my mind, the emotion is linked to so much youth at Berluti, to knowing that it has, without changing soul, without changing spirit, federated a youth that didn’t exist previously.”
French actor and director Jalil Lespert was enjoying the fresh air, both in terms of the courtyard and Ackermann’s arrival at the luxury house. “Being outside is great, and I loved Haider’s first Berluti collection. I really like the brand, many of my friends wear their shoes and it can quickly give that ‘Enarque’ look,” he said referring to the National School of Administration, or ENA, a French “grande école” created in the Forties to democratize access to the senior civil service. “But with this wind of renewal sweeping through, I am really curious to see it develop.”
“I’d love to

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Mr and Mrs Italy to Open Stores in Beijing, Miami and Hong Kong

The luxury utilitarian outerwear company Mr and Mrs Italy will be opening stores in Beijing and Miami, and has aims to double sales to $100 million in the next five years.
In New York from the company’s headquarters in Rimini, Italy, creative director Geraldina Bassani Antivari detailed some of the brand’s plans. Since joining the company four years ago, sales have increased from $1.5 million to $47 million. Now the goal is to hit $100 million by 2021, she said. She praised chief executive officer and owner Andrea Bucalossi for being “highly organized” and “having that Italian vibe of doing and moving and being quick and fast. Managing sku’s for him is a daily war.”
The eight to 10 producers in Italy that the company relies on know they need to continually research new techniques, cuts and furs. “We don’t want to work with companies that don’t respect the ethical laws,” Antivari said. “We work very closely with all of our wholesalers because we want to be one of those companies that gives service or something that was made for New York or for China.”
Researching military uniforms is a recurrent practice for her to get a better understanding of functionality. But those

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Moda Operandi, Amazon, Curalate Roll Out Social Shopping

Moda Operandi is embedding Amazon Pay’s technology even further into its e-commerce experience — this time on Instagram. The retailer is leveraging marketing technology firm’s Curalate’s Like2Buy tool with Amazon Pay to allow for a more streamlined checkout process. Users visiting Moda Operandi’s Like2Buy shoppable gallery on Instagram can click the Amazon Pay button on any item they wish to purchase, which automatically fills out shipping and payment information via their Amazon account. “We know our client is engaging with us on mobile for content and more recently, shopping,” said Keiron McCammon, chief technology officer at Moda Operandi. While the entire process doesn’t take place on the social platform — the customer is then rerouted to Modaoperandi.com to confirm their purchase — it’s definitely a “simpler and easier path to purchase,” according to Apu Gupta, chief executive officer of Curalate.
Moda Operandi first teamed with Amazon Pay in April of last year, making the six-year-old e-commerce sit Amazon Payments’s first luxury partner. At launch, the luxury retailer added a Pay With Amazon option on-site to allow shoppers to use their Amazon identities to check out and Amazon implemented an advertising product that can target consumers on its own platform and direct

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