Mens

Milan Men’s Fashion Week Reflects Industry Changes

MILAN — The latest Milan Men’s Fashion Week schedule reflects the changes in the men’s wear industry, according to Carlo Capasa, president of Italy’s Camera Nazionale della Moda.
“The concept of how men’s wear is shown has changed and so has the concept of the calendar — everything is combined together and there is more and more cross-pollination,” Capasa contended. “The shift is real.”
The shows will start on Jan. 12 with the Ermenegildo Zegna evening show and will end on Jan. 15, anchored by the Giorgio Armani and Fendi shows. Overall, the runway shows will be 31 in total.
Capasa said the evolution has led the association to create a new format for the calendar, which now “combines presentations and shows in a single tale that each brand offers in line with its own aesthetic and vision.”
The first chapter of coed shows, as Capasa called it, will take place in January, followed by the second chapter in February. Next month these will include Diesel Black Gold; the Italian brand Isabel Benenato founded by Isabel Vitiello; Neil Barrett; Marcelo Burlon County of Milan; Dsquared2; Daks; Sartorial Monk; Palm Angels; GCDS, and Frankie Morello. A number of brands, including Gucci, Bottega Veneta and Missoni, have chosen to

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Lutwyche Opens Bespoke Shop on Madison Avenue

The British invasion into New York City continues.
Following in the footsteps of Huntsman and Thom Sweeney, two U.K. tailors that recently set up shop in the city, Lutwyche has also entered the fray.
The London-based bespoke maker has opened an appointment-only shop at 717 Madison Avenue, where it will create custom clothing for customers from an upscale location on the third floor.
The brand was founded by Tony Lutwyche in 2000 and currently offers bespoke and made-to-measure clothing as well as a small ready-to-wear collection. The ready-to-wear is carried at several Saks Fifth Avenue stores and Lutwyche also hosts trunk shows at the Saks stores twice a year.
His new 3,000-square-foot shop will not carry the ready-to-wear but will focus exclusively on custom and made-to-measure clothing.
Before starting his business, Lutwyche attended the Royal Military Academy at Sandhurst and was a major in the cavalry. It was there that he got his first taste for sartorial dressing when he had to buy his officer’s uniforms from Savile Row tailors. “They were reassuringly expensive,” he said, “but the experience was disappointing and the product was great, but musty.”
Once his military service ended — and a short stint in the banking world proved not to his

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#Heineken100 Capsule With BAPE Balances Accessibility With Exclusivity

The #Heineken100 project, an annual campaign that aligns the beer company with fashion brands such as Public School and Union Los Angeles, is taking a different approach this year.
The label has partnered with streetwear brand A Bathing Ape (known as BAPE) to produce a small capsule collection, but for the first time the product will be made available to the public. Coltrane Curtis, founder and managing partner of Team Epiphany, which produces the campaign, said this shift is an attempt to open the initiative up to more people while maintaining some mystique.
“The challenge for this year’s #Heineken100 partnership is maintaining exclusivity and staying connected to the culture, while at the same time increasing the program visibility,” said Curtis. “Today’s luxury brands like Fear of God and Off-White are doing a great job at finding a balance between mass and exclusivity, and we believe this year’s program does that as well.”
The co-branded collection, which retails from $112 to $413, includes a half-zip pullover shark hoodie, a camo coach jacket, a T-shirt and a six-pack bottle carrier. Instead of being sold at A Bathing Ape locations, it will be made available today to customers over 21 at a pop-up shop at Izakaya

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Team Kith

Over the course of two years, the staff at Kith has grown from 50 to almost 200 employees. It’s been good for business, but Fieg admitted that leading this many people has been an adjustment.
“I’m a perfectionist, so making sure things are perfect is really difficult,” said Fieg. “I can’t be in my Miami store with a salesperson as they are speaking about the new product that comes in. I can influence, but I can’t control how people feel and think about the product we spend so much time on.”
According to Fieg, the conversations he has with Kith staffers have made him think differently and have also helped drive the business forward.
Here, WWD speaks to Kith team members about what they’ve learned from Fieg and how they see the business evolving.
Nick Annacone, vice president
Year Started: 2011
WWD: How do you complement Ronnie?
Nick Annacone: Ronnie is very much the dreamer and I do whatever I can to help bring his ideas to fruition. With this said, I am extremely pragmatic and really try to follow the “measure twice, cut once” mantra. In such a fast-paced environment, I understand the importance of keeping things moving and trying to stay a step ahead.

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Street Signs: Inside the Restless Mind of Kith’s Ronnie Fieg

NEW YORK — It’s easy to imagine loving shoes, but imagine loving shoes so much that, at 13, you’d rather spend time with them in a stockroom than hang out with friends. Now imagine, 10 or so years later, partnering with Nike, Asics, Adidas and others to rework the designs you used to study in that stockroom. And then imagine finally selling those shoes and wearing those shoes, but, to your surprise, they don’t quite fit. This is how Ronnie Fieg, creative director and chief executive officer of Kith, feels at the moment.
“Where I am right now is like walking around in a pair of shoes and they look fly and you love them, but they are too small. Well, actually, they are too big now. It’s not too big. I don’t want to say that, but the business is a lot bigger than I imagined,” Fieg said in an interview at Kith’s brand new SoHo office in Manhattan, which is a stone’s throw away from its recently opened store on Lafayette Street and a couple of floors above Kering’s New York headquarters. “I’m always uncomfortable because I’ve never been here before. There is no formula. There is no guideline.

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Street Signs: Commonwealth Rises in the Arts District

It’s style, not fashion, Commonwealth seeks to serve under its roof as the streetwear specialty retailer marks a move to the Los Angeles Arts District.
The business, started by Omar Quiambao and Larry Incognito in 2004 as a concept shop with the tag line “For the Greater Good,” brings its street- and skate-inspired boutique to yet another growing pocket of the Arts District where Silverlake Wine, Guerrilla Tacos, Base Coat Nail Salon, CES Gallery and the Museum of Ice Cream all reside. Just footsteps away, Dover Street Market is expected in the spring.
The area reminds Quiambao of New York, where he last resided, and is close to where he now lives in downtown. Opening the 1,500-square-foot shop represents the first time he’s living in the same city as a Commonwealth store.
Quiambao, a graduate of Pratt Institute, has spent the better part of nearly two decades now being a purveyor of what those standing from the outside might call youth culture melded with skate and streetwear. Commonwealth’s brand of that lifestyle mixes high fashion with the street for a store that includes brands such as Pleasures, Wacko Maria, Brain Dead, Padmore & Barnes, Stone Island, APC and Comme des Garçons Play, among

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Original Penguin Bets on Genius, Wale to Remain Relevant With Customers

Original Penguin, like many other brands, is trying to figure out how to speak to the Millennial consumer in an authentic way. According to Kristin Dicunzolo, the vice president of marketing and communications at Original Penguin, working with Genius as its only media outlet for the entire season was a way to do that.
“In the past we’ve used a variety of media partners, but we wanted to go all in with Geinus to have 100 percent of the shared voice,” said Dicunzolo, who added that it was important for the brand to work with a platform outside of the fashion space.
Genius, which was founded in 2009, primarily focused on publishing lyrics to rap songs – it was originally called Rap Genius. The platform has since expanded its content – lyrics, news, videos, artist interviews, etc. – to cover all music genres.
In 2016 Genius signed a deal with Spotify, the music streaming service, to integrate annotated lyrics into the music playback experience. Brands are beginning to play with selling merchandise on these platforms. Pat McGrath recently launched a line of beauty products with pop star Maggie Lindemann over Spotify.
“Music resonates with the Millennial customer and we want to make sure we

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How Extra Butter Aims to Reach a Broader Audience

Extra Butter is sharpening its focus to reach more customers.
The sneaker chain, which was cofounded by Jason Faustino, Ankur and Nick Amin in 2007, has homed in on Faustino’s love of film with its newly designed boutique on the Lower East Side.
The space, which is located at 125 Orchard Street, mimics a movie theater. Sneakers and clothes are displayed on the perimeter of the store and theater seats sit in the center. The outside of the flagship features a marquee and a ticket window. When the store is closed, a screen comes down over the storefront that streams movies throughout the night.
“After 10 years in business, we wanted to refocus what our brand DNA and message is,” said Bernie Gross, Extra Butter’s creative director. “We wanted to emphasize film and cinema and translate that into an elevated retail experience.”
This redesign comes after Extra Butter has made some internal staff changes and expanded the team. Since TSG Inc., Extra Butter’s parent company, acquired Jeff Staple’s Reed Space last year, Staple has come on to help with creative direction. The company has also hired Paul Lee, who was formerly the creative brand director and senior buyer at Ubiq in Philadelphia, as general

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Tailored Brands Profits Rise 30 Percent in Third Quarter

The picture is brightening for Tailored Brands Inc.
On Wednesday, the men’s wear retailer reported that net profits in the third quarter ended Oct. 28 increased 30 percent to $36.9 million, or 75 cents a diluted share, from $28.4 million, or 58 cents, a year earlier.
Earnings per share came in 21 cents ahead of the 54 cents analysts projected and helped push shares of the company up 12 percent, to $19.26, in after-hours trading Wednesday.
Sales for the three months ended Oct. 28 fell 4.3 percent to $810.8 million from $846.9 million.
“While we still have more work to do, we are pleased with the progress in our business in the third quarter,” said Doug Ewert, chief executive officer. “We posted positive comparable sales at Jos. A. Bank and sequential comparable-sales improvement at Men’s Wearhouse and K&G, resulting in our second consecutive quarter of positive comparable sales for our retail segment.”
In the period, comparable-store sales at Jos. A. Bank increased 4.9 percent. Comps at the Men’s Wearhouse division fell 1 percent, Moores in Canada was down 2.6 percent and K&G was down 0.6 percent, he said. But on a late-afternoon earnings call with analysts, Ewert said both Men’s Wearhouse and Jos. A. Bank are

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Mack Weldon Moves Into Accessories

Mack Weldon continues to grow outside of the innerwear space.
The men’s basics brand is venturing into the accessories category with the ION Series, which will be available today on Mack Weldon’s e-commerce site.
“We were always talking about what was missing from our accessories. It felt really similar to what led us to reinvent men’s basics,” said Brian Berger, who cofounded the brand. “Everything out there felt just too sporty or too high fashion for our needs. Once we started hearing similar feedback from our customers, we knew it was time to go to work.”
The line, which retails from $28 to $148, includes a backpack, weekend bag, dopp kit, wallet, glove and hat. Matthew Congdon, creative director and vice president of design, said he and his team have layered innovative features into the items. The wallet, which will be available for spring, includes a mini charger along with RFID lining and a zip closure to keep things safe. Travel kits have antimicrobial silver lining and extra travel size bottles. And the weekender is made from industrial grade waterproof fabric and also includes a charger.
This line comes after Mack Weldon has introduced apparel, swimwear and an active line that launched with Equinox.
“In many

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Rochambeau Aligns Distribution to Art World Calendar

Rochambeau is taking a different approach for the release of its spring 2018 collection that was designed in collaboration with artist Aaron Curry.
Instead of following the traditional fashion calendar and waiting until January to ship the spring collection to stores, Rochambeau founders Joshua Cooper and Laurence Chandler are kicking things off at The Webster on Dec. 7 during Miami Art Basel.
The collection will be showcased in an experiential space that references one of Curry’s shows — the walls will be wrapped in a hatch print Curry created to make the area feel like a gallery. Avery Dennison, which frequently partners with the brand, will set up a station that allows shoppers to customize their own Curry hoodies with appliqués. The Air Force 1s the brand created with Nike for its show will be on display. This will be Rochambeau’s first large activation at Basel.
“It’s exciting for us because we’ve focused our collections on working with artists closely in the studio, not just referencing them,” Chandler said. “I’ve found it cool to not only be on the fashion calendar but parallel with the art world.”
Following the installation with The Webster, which will be up for three weeks, Rochambeau will hold similar

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How Tommy John Introduces Its Brand to Macy’s Customers

Tommy John has made its way to Macy’s.
The men’s underwear brand, which was founded by Tom Patterson in 2008, began as an online-only company, but eventually moved into wholesale partnerships with Nordstrom and Saks Fifth Avenue. Now, the company has secured a selling area at Macy’s Herald Square where Tommy John will operate a holiday pop-up that’s open through January.
“The underwear section of any department can be a very crowded space with hundreds of brands, styles and silhouettes cramped into limited square footage,” said Patterson. “By choosing to launch the Tommy John pop-up in Macy’s Herald Square, we’ve pulled Tommy John away from all the underwear brands on the market and taken over our own space to showcase the product and its features and benefits.”
In addition to a pop-up that showcases what Patterson described as an improved shopping experience that transforms underwear from a commodity to a more considered purchase, the company made a splash with an appearance from comedian Kevin Hart, who invests in Tommy John and recently released collaborative product with the company. The first 200 customers who purchased pieces from the Tommy John x Kevin Hart collection were able to meet Hart, take a photo with him

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Pitti Uomo Gears Up for 93rd Edition

MILAN — On Thursday, Pitti Immagine presented the complete schedule of Florence-based international men’s wear fair Pitti Uomo, running Jan. 9 to 12 at the Fortezza da Basso venue.
The trade show will boost the number of special projects, shows and events for its 93th edition. According to Pitti Immagine, 1,230 companies will present their fall collections at the fair, 541 of which coming from abroad. Among the exhibitors, 227 are the companies returning or attending the trade show for the first time.
The Karl Lagerfeld and Corneliani brands will return to the event to unveil the men’s fall 2018 collections at the Sala dell’Orologio in the Costruzioni Lorenesi venue and in the Sala delle Grotte space, respectively. Corneliani will also showcase its CC Collection Corneliani lineup in the Sala Ottagonale area.
Other returning brands include Italian footwear label Fratelli Rossetti, Paul & Shark and Pepe Jeans London, which will celebrate its 45th anniversary presenting a new denim treatment. Woolrich will also host an installation and unveil a movie retracing its heritage during the trade show.
As reported, Brooks Brothers will fete its 200th anniversary at Pitti Uomo, staging its first fashion show at the Salone dei Cinquecento in the Palazzo Vecchio, along with a retrospective of

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Porsche Design Opening New Concept Store in South Coast Plaza

A new Porsche Design concept store — the company’s first in the U.S. — will open at South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa, Calif., on Nov. 15. The unit replaces a store that first opened in the Southern California mall in 1988.
The new store is nearly 1,600 square feet and located in the Carousel Court in the center of the plaza. It is a collaboration with Porsche Cars North America and will feature a rotating collection of Porsche cars that will serve as the centerpiece of the floor. There will also be a 16-x-9-foot video wall.
In addition, the store will offer men’s apparel, timepieces, electronics, luggage, writing tools, fragrances, smoking accessories, leather goods, eyewear and home accessories.
The only other store featuring this concept is in Milan and it opened in February.
“F.A. Porsche founded Porsche Design in 1972, with the design of a racing-inspired chronograph made for Porsche race car drivers,” said Dr. Jan Becker, chief executive officer of The Porsche Design Group. “Now, nearly 30 years after opening the original store, shifting gears and taking our retail concept to the next level with Porsche cars is a logical progression for us.”

Becker added that since it has operated a store three for

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Men’s Wearhouse Creates Video for Veterans Day

In honor of Veterans Day, Men’s Wearhouse is doing its part to shine a light on U.S. servicemen.
The specialty retailer has created a video for its web site and social media channels featuring a former Navy SEAL, as well as U.S. Army and Marine Corps veterans, fitted them in Aware-Tech suits from Kenneth Cole and asked them to work out while wearing the suits. As part of Operation Tailored Heroes initiative, the company made a donation to the charity of their choice.
Aware-Tech uses 37.5 Technology, a patented process that removes moisture in the vapor stage before liquid sweat can form, and is made from elastic fabrics that help the suit move.
The company brought the veterans to a CrossFit box and filmed them running on a treadmill, doing squats, dead lifts, ropes climbs and other exercises.
Kenneth Cole is also featured in the video detailing how a percentage of all sales from the Aware-Tech line is donated to various veterans organizations including Hire Heroes USA, an organization that helps U.S. military members, veterans and their spouses succeed in the civilian workforce. Cole said that since the line launched, nearly $2 million has been donated to the cause.
The line is available exclusively at Men’s Wearhouse stores.

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Fosun Buys Majority Stake in Caruso, Umberto Angeloni Leaves Helm

MILAN – Caruso is receiving an injection of funds from Fosun, its Chinese partner since 2013. At the same time, Umberto Angeloni, chairman and chief executive officer of the Italian men’s wear company Raffaele Caruso SpA, is leaving his role this month.
He is succeeded by his eldest son Marco Angeloni, chief operating officer of the label, who first joined the company in 2010. Marco Angeloni has an MBA from French business school Insead, and previously worked at Bain & Co.
While financial details were not disclosed, sources say Fosun has increased its stake from 35 percent to the majority in Aplomb Srl, Umberto Angeloni’s and Ruggero Mangoni’s holding company. This will allow to further expand business globally. The two partners will continue to hold a minority share in Caruso.
Umberto Angeloni, who spearheaded Brioni’s growth from 1990 until 2007 and turned it into a luxury lifestyle brand, bought the 35 percent stake in Caruso through Aplomb in 2008. Caruso at the time was a public company listed on the Milan Stock Exchange.
Angeloni was also instrumental in building the label, setting in motion a retail plan that included the opening of important flagships in New York and Milan, and conceiving a communication and

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Todd Snyder Opens City Gym 2.0 Pop-up in Flatiron District

NEW YORK — The Todd Snyder brand has grown quite a bit since the first City Gym opened in collaboration with Champion Sportswear in NoLIta in 2013.
Not only has the label been sold to American Eagle Outfitters, but the designer has operated his own eponymous store in the Madison Park district for the last year. He has also kept busy working on collaborations with brands as varied as Timex and New Era.
But Snyder still found the time to whip up the second iteration of his original retail concept, a pop-up called City Gym 2.0 that opens today at 108 Fifth Ave. at 16th Street.
“The first one did so well, it was open for 1 and a half years,” he said during a walk-through of the store on Thursday. “We had an opportunity to take over this space, so we decided to open City Gym 2.0, a more modern take on what we did downtown.”
The original pop-up had more of a locker room aesthetic, but this has “more of a heritage vibe,” he said.
The store, located across from the Google pop-up, formerly housed North Sails. As a result, Snyder said the location didn’t require a lot of heavy lifting to convert

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Street Signs: ‘Friendly’ Sneakersnstuff Rolls Out Welcome Mat in New York

Erik Fagerlind, who cofounded the specialty sneaker chain Sneakersnstuff with Peter Jansson in 1999, says 80 percent of its business now comes from e-commerce sales — up from 50 percent five years ago. But physical retail remains a significant part of its growth strategy outside of home country of Sweden, having planted shops in London, Paris, Berlin and now New York.
“In a world where everything is available and accessible, you have to provide a little bit more than product,” Fagerlind said. “You have to provide the service to be relevant with your consumer.”
Sneakersnstuff will bring its popular concept to New York in early December. The 3,500-square-foot shop will be located in the Meatpacking District, designed by Jenny Askenfors of Bofink Design Studio and feature a basement bar. Wil Whitney, who has deep roots in the New York skate and streetwear scene — he was a former manager at Stüssy, helped start Nom de Guerre, a men’s wear brand and Brooklyn shop that closed in 2010, and most recently worked for Noah — will manage the boutique. There are plans to open a Los Angeles flagship in 2018.
In Fagerlind’s view, the Meatpacking District was the ideal spot because it’s not saturated with

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Oak Ridge Boys Team With Hart Schaffner Marx on New Suit Offering

The Oak Ridge Boys are doing their part to promote American-made manufacturing and have tapped Hart Schaffner Marx to create a new line of suits under their American Made Collection moniker.
The country music group joined Liberty Legends USA, a program created in 2015 by American businesses to promote products created in the U.S. The program started with the Gatlin Brothers USA Collection of Western jackets and dress jeans made by The Sewell Cos.
Both lines are available on the Mill Town Mercantile web site. Mill Town Mercantile is the fulfillment arm of the Mill Town Music Hall, West Georgia’s largest concert and entertainment venue that opened in 2012 in Bremen, Ga.
The American Made Collection consists of two fits: the Chicago cut, a traditional two-button silhouette in worsted wool with flat or pleated pants, and the trimmer New York cut, a trimmer two-button silhouette. Both retail for $795 and made-to-measure is also offered as an option for both suits and sport coats. American Made was the title of one of the group’s biggest hits from 1983 and the members are nearly always seen dressed in suits.
“If you have ever been to The Oak Ridge Boys concert, you have heard the passion behind

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STREET SIGNS: The Making of a Celebrity Sneaker Deal

Reebok spent a year courting Future.
The relationship began in 2015 when the company started seeding the artist, whose real name is Nayvadius Wilburn, with shoes to wear. Then the team began attending his shows, inviting him to Reebok’s headquarters in Massachusetts and detailing how both parties could help each other.
“They made an effort to connect with him,” said Ebonie Ward, Future’s brand manager. “It wasn’t about sending e-mails. They told him they didn’t want to take advantage of him as an artist and use his fan base. They wanted to build a partnership with him. That’s what sealed the deal with Future. It wasn’t about him throwing on a pair of shoes and thinking people are going to just buy them.”
Athletic companies tapping celebrities, specifically hip-hop artists, isn’t a new concept. In fact, 14 years ago, Reebok offered Jay-Z a deal — the first of its kind — that led to the commercially successful S. Carter sneakers, which, when released, were one of the brand’s best-selling products. But the structure of today’s deals, and the climate around them, has evolved and Future’s relationship with Reebok reflects how the market has shifted.
Future signed with Reebok in 2016 and has played a

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