Mens

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Men’s Spring 2018: The Paris Medals Race

Paris spent the weekend in dual celebrations. On Saturday the city’s streets were filled with floats and joyous crowds for the Gay Pride March, while that day and Friday saw events all over town to promote the City of Light’s bid for the 2024 Olympics (although snarling traffic to do so perhaps wasn’t the best way to win over the International Olympic Committee).
Here WWD ranks the men’s shows based on how they fared in their Olympian goal: To win a medal. But, designers please remember Baron de Coubertin’s creed: “The most important thing…is not to win, but to take part….The essential thing is not to have conquered, but to have fought well.”
And while Olympians might have to wait four years for another shot at a medal, you — the lucky designers and fashion pack — only have six months until next men’s season. Let the games begin.

GOLD: The designer crossed the finish line a clear winner.
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus
Berluti
Sacai

SILVER: Competitive, but just not good enough for gold.
Dior Homme
Paul Smith
Hermès
AMI Alexandre Mattiussi
Balenciaga
Valentino
Rick Owens
Louis Vuitton
Alexander McQueen
BRONZE: They out-showed the pack to at least make the medals podium.
Lemaire
Thom Browne
Haider Ackermann
Dries Van Noten
Junya Watanabe Man
Cerruti
Lanvin
Balmain
Officine Générale

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Kris Van Assche Reflects on 10 Years at Dior Homme

PARIS — As he prepares to celebrate his 10th anniversary at the helm of Dior Homme, Kris Van Assche is basking in a new sense of freedom.
Having succeeded his former boss Hedi Slimane in the job, the Belgian designer initially focused on refining the razor-sharp tailoring that made the brand a favorite with celebrities from David Beckham to John Legend. In parallel, he channeled the edgy club culture of his youth into his eponymous label.
Two years ago, Van Assche shuttered his own line because — in his own words — juggling the two “was really no fun anymore.” Since then, he has been injecting more of his personal affinity with streetwear into the Dior aesthetic, bringing back a sense of youthful energy with show sets including a skatepark and a funfair.
With this change of direction — reflected in the brand’s fall 2017 advertising campaign starring Depeche Mode singer Dave Gahan and American actor Lucas Hedges — Van Assche believes that Dior can speak to more than one type of customer.
“People like to put things in boxes. Men dress in a certain way, they like to belong to a certain group, whether it’s music or sports or a social group — of bankers,

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Selected Homme Brings Its Scandinavian Touch to the U.S. Market

After 20 years of distributing its collection throughout Europe, the Middle East, Canada, Latin America, Australia and India, Selected Homme is making its first play into the U.S. market.
The brand is part of Bestseller, a privately owned Danish company that operates over 20 brands including Vero Moda, Only and Vila.
“There is a European trend of openness and we believe the U.S. market is poised for a change,” said Selected Homme’s country manager Brian Edgar.
The Selected Homme main line is divided into three separate collections. The heritage collection, which consists of casual sportswear; the indigo collection that’s made up of denim, and an “identity” assortment that offers a new take on tailored classics. Selected Homme also has a directional label called Homme Plus, which features on-trend clothes. The lines retail from $45 to $465.
“All three collections can sit together for optimal representation, or each collection can sit alone,” said Edgar.
While the collection is now available in the U.S. via its e-commerce site, Edgar is currently focused on targeting men’s specialty stores including Modern Anthology, Whiskey Ginger and J3 Clothing Company. Selected Homme operates 44 stores around the world, but has no current plans for building up a bricks-and-mortar presence in the U.S.
Edgar said

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Indochino to Add Four More U.S. Stores

Indochino will add to its retail presence this summer by opening four more “showrooms” in the U.S. over the next two months.
The Vancouver-based omnichannel men’s wear brand will open stores in New York, Chicago, Washington, D.C. and King of Prussia, Pa., between July 7 and Aug. 11. That will bring the number of stores overall to 17. Indochino refers to its storefronts as “showrooms” since unlike traditional retail, the locations carry no inventory. Instead, customers visit the store to be fitted and to personalize their suits and furnishings in a process similar to that employed by Bonobos and Knot Standard.
The first new Indochino store will be located at 25 Broad Street, across from the New York Stock Exchange in lower Manhattan. It’s expected to open on July 7. Next up is a location at The Shops at North Bridge in the River North District of Chicago on July 14. On July 21, a unit will bow at the Tyson’s Galleria in McLean, Va., outside Washington, D.C., and the last one will open on Aug. 11 in the King of Prussia Mall outside Philadelphia.
The showrooms will average 2,300 to 2,500 square feet, although the Chicago unit will be smaller, at 1,600

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Chris Paul on Five Four Collection and Being a Free Agent

NEW YORK – Chris Paul didn’t seem stressed about being a free agent.
The NBA player, who is currently between teams, was in good spirits on Tuesday night while celebrating the launch of his capsule collection with Five Four, a men’s wear subscription service, at Catch in the Meatpacking District.
“This is sort of my first time being a free agent, and I can see how it can become stressful and taxing and you feel like the weight of the world is on your shoulders. But I’m so fortunate to have the family and support system that I have,” said Paul.
Although Paul has worked with the Jordan brand for the past 10 years, this is the first time he’s partnered with a fashion company. According to Paul, some of that had to do with his contract with the Nike-owned company, but a lot of it had to do with the relationships he built with Andres Izquieta and Dee Murthy, Five Four’s cofounders. Paul first met Izquieta and Murthy when he was traded to the Los Angeles Clippers and was intrigued by the Lob City sweatshirts that fans were wearing in the stands, which Five Four used to make.
“It’s been amazing to watch their growth since

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Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli Says Goodbye Suit, Hello VLTN

PARIS — “I like the idea of Valentino goes street. It’s more interesting to me not to be distant,” Pierpaolo Piccioli said as he surveyed the mood board of his spring men’s collection at the brand’s headquarters on Place Vendôme.
The designer has made the bold choice this season not to include a single suit, the better to shine a light on his upscale take on sportswear — think track suits and Windbreakers embroidered with colored beads, and bright sneakers with ethnic flourishes such as detachable leather fringing.
“I wanted to be very precise on this idea of street. I think there’s a dignity in the street and in sports,” Piccioli said. “These pieces are really strong and of-the-moment. They express the culture of the moment and even the culture of the moment of the brand: couture meets street.”
Valentino is no stranger to the casualwear game: In recent years, its Rockstud and Rockrunner sneakers have earned cult status.
But since taking over the sole creative direction of the brand, following the departure of Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior, Piccioli has been pushing increasingly adventurous looks, starting with his collaboration last season with Jamie Reid, the English artist best known for his Sex Pistols album

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Robert Geller Brings Forth New Collection

Robert Geller is branching out.
A perennial men’s wear favorite who launched his namesake collection in 2007, Geller will introduce an entirely new line for spring during New York Fashion Week: Men’s.
Called Gustav von Aschenbach, the collection will be lower priced than his namesake line and will make its debut at a presentation at Cadillac House at noon on July 11.
“This is a completely new project,” he said. “It is not a diffusion line.” As such, the collection will not bear his name anywhere on it. “I don’t want people to see it as a secondary line,” he stressed.
“I was trying to look at the market and see where there’s an opportunity,” he explained. Realizing that retailers were drawn to the Robert Geller collection but that its designer-level price points put the line out of reach for some, he set out to provide an alternative.
“We’re working with a new partner in Japan on this and found some great factories to produce it,” he said. So while the initial idea was to just test the new concept, it turned out so well that he will offer 40 styles in five separate colorways for a 200-piece collection. “When I saw the samples, I

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Retailers Divided Over Milan’s Shorter Length, but Praise Collections

MILAN — Retailers were divided about the shorter fashion week in Milan, but they agreed that creativity was strong and that designers generally delivered.
Bruce Pask, men’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman, said “despite the fact there are fewer shows here, it is still a schedule packed with appointments, showroom walk-throughs and certainly runway shows. Milan Fashion Week is incredibly important and fruitful for us at Goodman’s, always.”
Retro sports looks, including track suits; oversized silhouettes and baggy pants; layering; strong outerwear; a fresh summer color palette that included shades of pale pink; fluid shapes and fabrics, and streetwear references were some of the main trends praised by retailers.
Maud Tarena, director of men’s fashion at Le Bon Marché, said brands are “mixing up lighter and warmer outerwear together” in a seasonless way. “Thom Browne, for example, offered down jackets and swimwear in the same show [Moncler Gamme Bleu]. Even the weight of fabrics is very versatile,” said Tarena, whose favorite show was Prada. It was “energetic and exciting,” she said. Tarena, however, was frustrated by the limited number of shows in Milan and said there were “no strong discoveries, no surprises.” The store’s budget remained stable compared to last year, she said.
Tom Kalenderian,

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Common Trde Hopes to Invigorate the Showroom Experience

Laura Baker and James Waller are introducing a new showroom concept.
Baker, who co-owns the Pblc Trde showroom, and Waller, who cofounded the British streetwear brand Blood Brother, have partnered up to launch Common Trde, a showroom space that will be open during men’s market in Paris from June 22 to June 29 at 18 Rue Commines.
During previous seasons, Baker previewed her brands in either trade shows or rented out space in other showrooms, but with help from Waller, who has used his European network to bring in new brands, they are presenting more of a lifestyle space where brands of various sizes are able to maintain their own identity — each client had a hand in putting the space together — and use shared resources.
“In the past, we did not feel the brand’s individual identity was upheld,” Baker said. “It always seemed only to be about the trade show or that showroom. There didn’t seem to be any shared communication or practices.”
Baker and Waller are hoping to make the process more seamless for buyers and brands. They’ve created a show guide so buyers can preview the brands and speak to their sales managers before coming to the showroom. And instead

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Trending at Pitti Uomo

Safari Adventure: Lardini
Updated Trenchcoat: Pringle of Scotland
Ultralight Parka: Helter Shelter
Summer Stripes: Block & Last
Shirting Fabrics: Corelate
Eighties’ Bathing Suits: Timo Trunks
Colored Lenses: Super Retrosuperfuture
Embellished Denim: Kings of Indigo
Pastel Sneakers: Bibliotek
Camp Shirt: Gitman Bros.
Hippie Necklaces: Made Solid

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