Mens

Street Signs: Will Streetwear Customers Buy a Tie?

Things are changing quickly within men’s wear. When WWD visited Guillermo Andrade a few months ago at 424 on Fairfax, the Los Angeles store he founded in 2010, Dior Homme was setting up a pop-up and Kris Van Assche was the creative lead. Now Van Assche is at Berluti, Kim Jones is at Dior Homme and Virgil Abloh is the creative director at Louis Vuitton men’s, signaling an arrival of sorts for the streetwear category.
Things have also changed with Andrade, who has his own label, named 424, that is carried at retailers including Barneys New York and Selfridges. Andrade has developed a design identity with his 424 armbands, hoodies and T-shirts with subtle social messages, and for spring is inching into new territory with a few tailored pieces.
Tailored clothing isn’t completely foreign to streetwear. Supreme created a seersucker suit with Brooks Brothers in 2014 and Off-White’s fall 2018 men’s wear collection was based on workplace uniforms. Andrade’s expansion could indicate how streetwear might evolve as it aims to stake out more floor space in department stores and grow up with its customers.
WWD spoke to Andrade about growing his L.A.-made streetwear brand, the viability of the category and the possibility of him taking

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Ermenegildo Zegna Exhibit Celebrates 50th Anniversary of Brand’s Entry in RTW

MILAN — Who knew the Ermenegildo Zegna Group produced Emilio Pucci’s first men’s wear collection in 1968? And who knew Anna Zegna, president of Fondazione Zegna, worked with Gianni Versace on the designer’s first men’s collection in 1978?
These are only two of the surprising discoveries made during a preview tour of the exhibition “Uomini all’Italiana [Men Italian Style] 1968” staged at Casa Zegna, near the brand’s storied wool mill in Trivero, a one and a half hour drive from Milan. The exhibit, organized by Fondazione Zegna, celebrates the 50th anniversary of Ermenegildo Zegna’s entry into ready-to-wear and runs May 6 to Oct. 28. “These years were the beginning of the Italian fashion system and lifestyle,” said Anna Zegna. “Women’s wear was more established, while men’s wear was starting at that time.”

The Emilio Pucci jacket produced by Ermenegildo Zegna.
Andrea Pisapia/spazioorti14.it

The exhibit also pays tribute to the namesake founder of the company, and to his sons, Angelo and Aldo. Ermenegildo Zegna first traveled to New York in 1938 to set up a branch, the Ermenegildo Zegna Corp., to meet Italian tailors, to work on direct distribution and “to fight the supremacy of English fabrics,” as claimed by a number of photos, ads and correspondence on

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As Zegna Logs 64% Profit Growth, CEO Eyes More

MILAN — Gildo Zegna wants to be prepared for unforeseen challenges “with a certain degree of coolness.”
The Ermenegildo Zegna Group closed 2017 with a 64 percent spike in net profits, but its chief executive officer says he is never satisfied. “The trend is positive, but our goal is to grow more, we have everything it takes, we have the resources, we have a complex machine that works and we have a team that is supporting Alessandro Sartori, who is making the difference,” Zegna told WWD on Monday, referring to the men’s wear group’s artistic director. Sartori left Berluti in 2016 to return to the Zegna Group, succeeding Stefano Pilati with expanded responsibilities, and his first collection bowed for fall 2017.
In 2017, net earnings totaled 32.8 million euros, compared with 20 million euros in 2016.
In the 12 months ended Dec. 31, earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization climbed 13.6 percent to 142 million euros, compared with 125 million euros in the previous year.
Revenues increased 2.3 percent to 1.18 billion euros, compared with 1.15 billion euros in 2016. At constant exchange, sales gained 4.5 percent.
“Alex [Sartori] is full of energy, he has brought modernity and style to the company and his way

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Ermenegildo Zegna Group Profits Climb 64% in 2017

MILAN – A new brand strategy and a turnaround in markets including China, the Russian Federation, Macau, Singapore and Japan helped the Ermenegildo Zegna Group post a 64 percent jump in net profits last year. In the 12 months ended Dec. 31, earnings rose to 32.8 million euros, compared with 20 million euros in 2016.
Earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization climbed 13.6 percent to 142 million euros, compared with 125 million euros, in the previous year.
Revenues increased 2.3 percent to 1.18 billion euros, compared with 1.15 billion euros in 2016. At constant exchange, sales gained 4.5 percent.
“The positive results of 2017 are the outcome of many factors which have interacted nicely thanks to the brand strategy that was inaugurated with the arrival of Alessandro Sartori as artistic director,” said Gildo Zegna, chief executive officer of the family-owned group. “The success of the collections, the development of capsules able to integrate the offer of seasonal collections, and the intensification of marketing initiatives starting with communication campaigns that support storytelling linked to our products and events have allowed Zegna to participate in the recovery that is characterizing the global markets. Thanks to the omnichannel, or the integration between physical and virtual channels, we have not

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Hennessy Taps Jean-Raymond for First Apparel Capsule

NEW YORK — Kerby Jean-Raymond bristles when it’s suggested that he’s a streetwear designer.
But there’s no denying the founder of Pyer Moss is popular with the trendsetting Millennials who define the movement. His first sneaker for Reebok, which dropped earlier this month, sold out within minutes and is being offered on resale sites for more than $500.
Now Jean-Raymond has designed a capsule collection for cognac brand Hennessy’s Wild Rabbit “Never stop. Never settle.” project.
The designer was commissioned to create a line inspired by Marshall “Major” Taylor, an African-American track cyclist who won the sprint event at the 1899 ICA Track Cycling World Championships in Montreal and went on to compile a storied career in the sport. However, Taylor, who died in 1932 and was once esteemed as the fastest man on two wheels, is largely unknown today.
But with the help of Hennessy, ESPN and Jean-Raymond, that’s about to change.
On Thursday night, the brands will unveil the MMT 140 x Pyer Moss for Hennessy Capsule Collection, a mash-up of vintage cycling gear and streetwear staples, as part of an event that will celebrate the athlete. The program will include an ESPN-produced documentary, a voiceover performed by Nas, and a monument called

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Corridor Men’s Sportswear Fetes NoLIta Store

Creating a fashion collection is a far cry from working for the Federal Bureau of Investigation, but that’s the journey Dan Snyder took with his men’s brand, Corridor.
Snyder started his business career as an independent contractor for the government agency but hated the way his suits fit. So he borrowed his aunt’s vintage Kenmore sewing machine and learned how to sew. He started making shirts in his East Village walk-up in New York and decided to take a booth at the Capsule show to test the waters. He wrote orders with 12 independent men’s wear stores from that one rack in 2013 and was on his way.
Today, Corridor, which Snyder refers to as “new American sportswear [that] melds Northeastern prep with New York City’s modern sensibility,” is now carried in 90 stores in the U.S. and internationally including Stag, Unionmade and others that serve a contemporary men’s shopper. The line has also grown to include jackets, pants, shorts, accessories and a small women’s wear component.
And on Thursday, the company will host a party at its store on Mott Street in NoLIta to introduce the brand to press and influencers.
“We’ve grown organically since we started,” Snyder said. “And we believe it

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Tommy Hilfiger, Lewis Hamilton Team for Capsule Collection

Lewis Hamilton, British Formula One racing driver and four-time Formula One World Champion, is gearing up to introduce a men’s capsule collection in collaboration with Tommy Hilfiger. They will introduce the first Tommy x Lewis collection for fall retailing.
The news comes a month after Hamilton was named a global brand ambassador for Tommy Hilfiger Men’s, starting this spring, as reported. Hilfiger is owned by PVH Corp.
Hamilton revealed the collection logo to fans at an exclusive event in Shanghai on Wednesday, putting his own stamp on the Tommy Hilfiger flag. The Tommy x Lewis flag was unveiled in an art installation that shared the inspirations behind the design, including street art influences and projections of Hamilton’s own body art. The logo is a take on Hilfiger’s signature flag trademark positioned behind Hamilton’s initials in navy, reflecting the brand’s colors and the font used in the British Formula One racer’s own tattoos.
The collection will be revealed to editors on May 7.
As reported, Hamilton was named the face of Hilfiger men’s, which includes the Collection and Tailored lines as well as underwear and swimwear. The appointment is aimed at driving the growth of Hilfiger men’s worldwide and bringing the next generation of fans

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Knot Standard Gets New Investor

Knot Standard has gotten another infusion.
The New York-based custom men’s brand has received what it characterized as “a significant minority investment from Provenance,” a growth equity investment firm based in Los Angeles. Terms were not disclosed.
In 2015, the brand received an investment from Traub Associates.
Founded in 2010, Knot Standard currently operates showrooms in seven cities across the country and will use the investment to add showrooms in other markets around the country.
“Knot Standard created an extraordinarily loyal and valuable customer following in the premium/luxury segment of custom men’s apparel, with a true omnichannel system and culture,” said Anthony Choe, founder of Provenance. “We’re proud to partner with the company to replicate their success in other markets throughout the country.”
John Ballay, chief executive officer and cofounder of Knot Standard, said, “Provenance brings tremendous insight as we embark on the next level of growth. Their approach to create value through customer analytics is unparalleled in the investment community.”
“Provenance is a value-added investor and really understands our business and brand,” added Matthew Mueller, Knot Standard’s chief operating officer and cofounder. “We look forward to our continued fruitful partnership for years to come.”
Ballay said that in addition to new markets, the company will “also

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Pitti Uomo, Revolver Copenhagen Sign Partnership

Pitti Uomo has teamed with Revolver Copenhagen Int. Fashion Trade Show to bring a hint of Scandinavian lifestyle to Florence.
During the 94th edition of the Pitti Uomo, 15 Scandinavian men’s wear brands will showcase their collections in a dedicated area, called “Scandinavian Manifesto,” located inside the Fortezza da Basso’s Arena Strozzi. The labels will be presented in a customized set, filled with contemporary design items from the Nordic cultural and culinary scene.
“Researching today’s most interesting countries for contemporary fashion is part of Pitti Immagine’s DNA,” said Lapo Cianchi, director of communications and special projects at Pitti Immagine. “The selection curated at Pitti Uomo by Revolver, one of the most interesting trade shows in Europe, consists of both young men’s wear designers and already established brands. Each of them conveys its own individual ideas and together they all express the essence of the Scandinavian design and lifestyle. We are very happy with this partnership established between Pitti Immagine and Revolver, which will further strengthen the appeal of the upcoming edition of Pitti Uomo.”
The partnership between the two trade show organizers is expected to last for at least three seasons.
“We are super proud that
 Pitti Uomo has chosen us to create this project

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Linder Moves Into Print

Linder is trying out different forms of expression.
Kirk Millar, who cofounded the brand with Sam Linder, wanted to offer a print takeaway with the fall men’s collection, which was centered around different ideas of masculinity, so he produced a zodiac calendar that’s available to purchase for $45 on Linder’s e-commerce site.
“The collection was specifically about the interior world of a gay man, and the vibrant inner life becomes visible to others as you begin to accept ​that you are ‘different’ and it’s a gift,” said Millar. “I think the calendar is about this as well, but very directly addresses the wounding and the healing process. It takes time, hence the calendar, and relating to others on a bigger-picture scale of connectedness, hence zodiac, which is a universal large space that sits above us.”
The calendar, which was shot by photographer Driely Carter, features models wearing Linder’s new underwear collection appearing as if they were wounded soldiers. Millar said he was influenced by a Walt Whitman documentary and the writer said he hoped American people would refrain from war by understanding the sanctity of the body.
Millar said going forward he hopes to continue to utilize print platforms to complement the collections.
“I think

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Robert Graham Signs Four New Licenses

Robert Graham is expanding its reach.
In a move that will mark the largest brand extension in the company’s history, Robert Graham has signed four new licenses and two license extensions.
The new licensees are Prodigy Brands for men’s footwear, beginning this spring; Nouveau Eyewear for ophthalmic eyewear and sunglasses, also beginning this spring; Royal Heritage Home for home furnishings including sheets, comforters, duvets and decorative pillows beginning this fall, and Komar for men’s and women’s underwear, sleepwear, loungewear, women’s intimate apparel and daywear starting in the spring of 2019.
“As we continue bringing the Robert Graham luxury DNA and lifestyle to new classifications for men, women and other passion points in which our collectors engage, we look forward to expanding our reach in the U.S. and beyond,” said Andrew Berg, president of Robert Graham.
Robert Graham has also extended its licensing deals with RGA Leatherworks for men’s small leather goods, accessories and bags, and British Apparel Collection, for hosiery. The company also has a fragrance license with Batallure Beauty and headwear with Henschel Hat Co.
Robert Graham is a division of Differential Brands Group Inc., which also owns Hudson Jeans and Swims. The label is sold at high-end retailers such as Bloomingdale’s, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom

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Adidas’ Nic Galway on Building Successful Collaborations

Before joining Adidas, where he’s worked for almost two decades, Nic Galway, the global senior vice president of design for Adidas Originals and Style, studied automotive design. He parlayed that into a job at Adidas, where he helped facilitate collaborations before they were called collaborations — specifically the launch of the Y-3 line with Yohji Yamamoto.
He still works with Yamamoto, but is juggling many more projects, including the successful partnership on the Yeezy line with Kanye West, who he said has pushed him and the team at Adidas to move beyond their comfort zones. Galway sat down with WWD’s style director Alex Badia to talk about merging Adidas’ heritage with the future, the future of men’s wear, and what makes a strong collaboration.
WWD: I’ve seen that car design and shoe design are related. Do you think that’s the case?
Nic Galway: I studied back in the mid-Nineties. And when I joined Adidas, there was no one in the company at all who studied shoe design and sneaker design wasn’t something you could study at all. There are a lot of people who are into automotive who really thought they wanted to study this, but when they got into the world it

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Heron Preston on Breaking the Rules

Heron Preston’s business started with a white lie.
The red-hot streetwear designer admitted that his first independent foray into fashion came when he bootlegged the popular Givenchy Rottweiler T-shirt, reworking it into a deliberate fake by putting the image on a white T-shirt rather than a black one and selling it under the radar through his Instagram post. Since then, Preston has been twisting fashion in a number of unconventional ways that have brought him and his label to the forefront of the popular streetwear movement.
Here, he talks with WWD men’s reporter Aria Hughes about fashion school, pushing boundaries — and where streetwear might be headed next.
WWD: We’re on stage at Parsons where you went to college. How does that make you feel?
Heron Preston: I’m on the same stage where Donna Karan would host these talks with futurists. Now I’m on that stage and it’s kind of trippy. I was a good student because I was excited to have gotten into this school. It was really hard to get into and once I got accepted, I took advantage of all the resources: I was class president, went to all the talks, I really soaked it up.
WWD: You’ve also have written a

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How Bravado Is Extending Music Merch Beyond T-shirts

Bravado has managed to elevate music merchandise and that was always the goal for Mat Vlasic, the company’s chief executive officer who grew up in the music business — his mother, Marsha Vlasic, was — and still is — a rock agent.
For Vlasic, the turning point was when Barneys said yes to Justin Bieber’s Purpose Tour collection, which drew a wide swath of fans, but Vlasic still sees a lot of untapped opportunities within the music merchandise space. He spoke to WWD’s editorial director James Fallon on how he matches designers with musical artists, who is buying the most music merchandise and what prevents them from working with larger brands and retailers.
WWD: What is Bravado?
Mat Vlasic: We do a lot of things, but we look at ourselves as a brand management company for artists. Most of our clients are musicians and we provide them an infrastructure to sell T-shirts, expand into fashion, home decor and other categories where they can extend their brand beyond music. It’s particularly important now as music has migrated to digital and you don’t have a lot of physical touch points anymore. So we spend our day thinking about how can we connect artists deeper to

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Pitti Immagine Cancels Exhibition Curated by Stefano Pilati

Pitti Immagine said on Tuesday it cancelled the “Evolution — Involution — Revolution. Three decades of men’s fashion as seen by Stefano Pilati” exhibition, which was supposed to be inaugurated during the 94th edition of Pitti Uomo, opening in Florence on June 12.
In a statement, the trade show organizer said that exhibition was cancelled due to “curator Stefano Pilati’s binding commitments.” No further details were provided.
After he left the Ermenegildo Zegna Group in February 2016, Pilati took to Instagram Stories in June and January to showcase images of its personal project, called Random Identities, which hasn’t been officially launched yet.
Pitti Immagine said that instead of Pilati’s exhibition, the Pitti Discovery Foundation will present “Fanatic Feelings – Fashion Plays Football,” an exhibit curated by magazines Achtung Mode and Sepp Football Fashion’s founder Markus Ebner and Italian art curator Francesco Bonami.
Promoted by the Florentine Center for Italian fashion and Pitti Immagine and supported by The Italian Ministry of Economic Development and Italian trade agency ICE, the exhibition, opening on June 12 at the Santa Maria Novella complex, will put the accent on the tight relationship between soccer and fashion and how the legendary sport influenced the development of men’s collective imagination.
“Pitti Discovery

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How Brands Are Speaking to the Everyday Millennial Male

Hamid Onifade has an amenable face. In one shot, he can look brooding and mysterious, but with just the slightest tilt of his head or upturn of his mouth he’s innocent and childlike. He has a serene, warm visage that’s accessible, but still genetically superior.
Onifade, a 23-year-old male model from Benin, in West Africa, has been working a lot lately. He’s become the representative of choice for men’s brands and retailers that are hoping to break through the noise and incite the everyday guy, who’s not wholly engaged with streetwear, to shop. Onifade has worked for J. Crew, but he’s also modeled for Target’s men’s line, Goodfellow & Co., which launched last fall, and Goodthreads, a private label from Amazon that was made available in 2017 and is exclusive to Prime members.
Onifade hasn’t modeled for Walmart, but the big-box retailer is also reassessing how it reaches men. Aside from acquiring Bonobos last June, a company for which Onifade has modeled, Walmart recently reintroduced George, a men’s private label from its British affiliate Asda.
The activity within the men’s wear space is quantifiable. According to Euromonitor, the men’s apparel and footwear categories have grown by 19 percent globally over the past five years

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Suitable Statistics

From the missed opportunity for men’s brands using Instagram to which markets are growing fastest and the number of labels holding coed shows, here are some facts retailers and designers might find useful in trying to figure out how to weather the changes buffeting the fashion world.
The Online Opportunity
Men’s wear is expected to outpace women’s wear over the next two years, with a 5 percent annual compounded growth rate, according to the L2 Insight report on U.S. men’s wear. However, few fashion brands have prepared appropriately for the expected demand in their online businesses.
L2 evaluated 59 firms that carry only men’s or both men’s and women’s products and determined that although 86 percent collect gender information from customers at sign-up, only 41 percent use that data to modify the subject lines of their gender-targeted e-mails — which historically achieve higher open rates.
Additionally, nearly one-third of the brands that carry men’s wear fail to feature men’s products on their homepages and another 19 percent push men’s content below the fold. As an example, even though Calvin Klein’s most-viewed product page in the last year was the men’s underwear page, the company’s homepage promotes primarily women’s wear.
The report said that men are

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Between the Lines

Pinstripes, puffers and repp ties remain part of the picture in men’s wear today as revisited essentials — including preppy and utility ones — challenge streetwear’s dominance. Here, 3.1 Phillip Lim’s pinched nylon coat, Versace’s wool blazer, Band of Outsiders’ cotton shirt and Lanvin’s leather pants.

Photographs by Tetsu Kubota; Styled by Alex Badia; Models: Austen Planes at Click Models, PK Holdbrook-Smith at Red Model Management; Groomed by Yukiko Tajima using Oribe at See Management; Casting: Edward Kim at The Edit Desk; Market Editor: Luis Campuzano; Fashion Assistant: Victor Vaughns

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Jack Erwin to Open Store on Madison Avenue

J​ack Erwin​, a men’s online footwear brand, will open its first full-service brick-and-mortar store in Manhattan this summer.
The flagship will be located at ​488 Madison Avenue​, between 51st and 52nd Streets, and will carry the brand’s full line of European-made, handcrafted shoes as well as some exclusives.
“Over the past three years, the Tribeca showroom has shown us that many of our customers not only want to try on our shoes for fit and comfort, but also really enjoy seeing the quality of our materials and craftsmanship while engaging with our team in-person,” said co-founder Lane Gerson. “As Jack Erwin grows, it’s important for us to continue nurturing these customers by improving and expanding our retail experience, and with so many new products launching this year, we think now is the perfect time to introduce Jack Erwin Madison.”
Jack Erwin launched in 2013 and sells primarily online, although it is also carried in Nordstrom.

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David Levin to Retire as DXL Chief

David Levin, the longtime president and chief executive officer of Destination XL Group Inc., is to retire at the end of this year.
Heidrick & Struggles has been retained to search for a successor to helm the country’s largest big and tall men’s retailer. Candidates from within and outside the company will be considered. Levin, 66, has said he will be available to provide support during the transition period.
The company made the announcement at the same time it reported a fourth-quarter net loss of $3.3 million as compared to net income of $1.8 million in the same period last year. On a non-GAAP basis, adjusted EBITDA was $5 million compared to $10.8 million in the prior-year quarter. Adjusted EBITDA for the year was $17.1 million, down from $31.6 million in the prior year.
Comparable-store sales increased 4.3 percent in the quarter and total sales were up to $135.5 million from $122.6 million last year.
Levin attributed the earnings decline to an increase in marketing expenses and said the company would cut back on its store openings to only three stores in fiscal 2018 as it seeks to lower capital expenditures. The company also said Jim Davey, a former Timberland executive, has joined DXL

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