Compression garments with graphic elements, ultrathin outerwear in color-blocked designs and bolder logos throughout are helping to achieve the best performance without compromising style.
For the heads of multimillion-dollar fashion companies — one decades old, another still in its teens — heritage is key to building a brand that lasts.
Missoni creative director Angela Missoni and Rag & Bone chief executive officer, founder and creative director Marcus Wainwright shared the stage at WSJ Magazine’s D.Luxe conference, taking place Wednesday in Laguna Beach, Calif., to talk about their respective brands finding commonality while remaining independent firms.
For Missoni, whose parents founded the company, maintaining the heritage is largely in her blood, she said. “I [was] born with it,” she said. “I grow with it.”
Still, evolving a brand and growing with the customer base is important to remaining relevant, Missoni said of the business, which did $177 million last year in revenue.
“For me, [being] multigenerational is very important,” she said. “I always try to keep the collections, even if you have proportion, but something that my daughter can wear. My mother can wear.”
Wainwright, who took on the full ceo title after co-ceo David Neville parted ways with the firm last year, said Rag & Bone stays true to its roots in creating the perfect pair of jeans.
“I ended up one day in Tompkinsville, Kentucky in a very old
Josie Natori opened her Upper East Side home to the CFDA and its new members Tuesday evening, hosting many of this year’s 14 additions to the CFDA family as well as veteran members, including Vera Wang and Reed Krakoff. Once guests got upstairs — there was a minor elevator incident — there were cocktails, spring rolls and a performance by Natori on one of her two grand pianos. At the request of CFDA president and chief executive officer Steven Kolb, she played Barbra Streisand’s “People” with a vocal accompaniment by men’s designer Jeffrey Banks. “If you’re successful, you will also have two grand pianos in your apartment one day,” said Kolb.
Among the new members were Julia Jentzsch and Becca McCharen-Tran of Chromat, as well as jewelry designer Temple St. Clair and Bonnie Young, some of whom may be new to the CFDA but are not new to the business. “You know it’s funny, I’m going into my 31st year right now and in 1990 Colette Malouf came to me and said, ‘You really should join the CFDA,’” recalled St. Clair. “I was a one-woman show, so it’s taken me a few years but, better late than never.” Young, who worked
PARIS — Seeking to create a more selective, showroom-like atmosphere, a number of players at the recent round of apparel trade shows here scaled down in size, targeting quality over quantity.
Tranoï had let go of its Cité de la Mode location to concentrate on its two remaining venues at the Carrousel du Louvre and the Palais de la Bourse, where it has started hosting fashion shows as part of the official Paris Fashion Week calendar. In addition, organizers launched Tranoï Week, a small showroom/trade show hybrid in the Marais district featuring some 35 French and international designers.
“Before we offered too much to choose from,” said Tranoï director David Hadida. “So we decided to go for the best, basically. We have focused in on ourselves and become more concentrated geographically as well. We’ve narrowed down our offer and added several strings to our bow.
“It’s our duty to reinvent ourselves and to make people dream,” the show director added. “And it’s so exciting to work on a project for six months or a year, and to see the immediate results all at once.…It’s a first step toward change. This is just the beginning.”
The well-received first edition of Tranoï Week was held at
Instagram has become the ultimate starting point for influencers, especially those who are a part of the streetwear scene. WWD asked five streetwear stars with sizable followings about their favorite brands, stores and pieces. See what Alexandra Hackett (@miniswoosh), Feifei Fu (@ifayfu), Bloody Osiris (@bloodyosiris), Aleali May (@alealimay) and Coco (@coco_prinkprincess) had to say below.
Alexandra Hackett, @miniswoosh Follower count: 52,000
Cred: One of 12 featured in Nike’s Vote Forward campaign, studied men’s sportswear design and makes most of the pieces she wears.
Home base: London
Estimated $ spent: About $5,000 over the past year.
Brand(s) of choice: Nike
Favorite place(s) to buy: “eBay, 100%.”
Most prized piece: “I’d say my first custom Nike sample — a fisherman’s gilet made from a Nike duffel bag.”
Feifei Fu, @ifayfu Follower count: 65,300
@ifayfu / Instagram
Home base: London; from Beijing
Estimated $ spent: “Probably hundreds of thousand[s of] dollars”
Brand(s) of choice: Used to prefer Japanese brands like Bape and Visvim; these days, she’s more into Supreme, Balenciaga and Off-White’s Nike collaboration.
Favorite place(s) to buy: Supreme, Palace, Dover Street Market; Grailed and eBay for rarer pieces.
Most prized piece: A Supreme x Louis Vuitton denim jacket. “They are not in stores in London, but my best friend blessed me.”
Bloody Osiris, @bloodyosiris Follower Count: 120,000
Modesty was one of the main trends to surface during Bridal Fashion Week in New York, with long sleeves a feature of covered-up gowns in every major collection, like this Tadashi Shoji lace number.
MILAN — Innovation, creativity and high-end quality emerged as the key elements of the fall 2018 collections presented at the 93rd edition of three-day international leather trade show Lineapelle, which closed here on Oct. 6.
This season, the fair registered a 2 percent increase in the number of visitors up to 21,687. Although the percentage of international buyers was stable, Lineapelle saw a 5 percent growth in Italian visitors as an effect of the reshoring strategies adopted by several fashion and accessories companies.
A range of innovative products and techniques was introduced at the fair, which at the same time demonstrated that the fashion market is also rediscovering timeless classics.
For next fall, Montebello, which celebrates its 50th anniversary this year, focused on searching new solutions to pair leather with other materials. For example, the company matched super soft leather with elastic fabrics, as well as with boiled wool with a goffered effect. Leather was also paired with a copper net to obtain a futuristic look.
“This new product doesn’t only guarantee a new aesthetic result, but it is also great for people’s health because metals interact with the body enhancing well-being,” said Montebello chief executive officer Franco Dalle Mese.
Montebello also offered a new take on
Stance is moving into the intimate apparel category.
The California-based brand, which launched in 2009 with socks, will introduce women’s intimates for fall.
According to Candy Harris, the executive vice president of the women’s division, her team started developing the assortment two years ago after feeling like there was something missing in the category.
“We wanted to develop product that wasn’t existing in the market with our aesthetic,” said Harris. “In this category women are marketed to in a very one-dimensional way and we wanted to shatter that and broaden the creative approach to the category.”
Harris said the design team took cues from fashion, streetwear and performance. They’ve brought the DNA of Stance into the line with bold prints and tapped Lauren Wasser, an amputee model and activist who suffered a near-death experience due to Toxic Shock Syndrome, to model the collection. Wasser will also join Stance’s Punks and Poets brand ambassadors roster and be featured in Stance’s new video series, “A Verse of Her Own.”
“Lauren kept showing up on our mood boards so we decided to just reach out,” said Harris. “When you meet her there is a sense of confidence that’s so compelling. She’s a major part of the storytelling and
Donna Karan has remained in Los Angeles since her role in the Weinstein story erupted. On Friday afternoon, she spoke on the phone with WWD’s executive editor Bridget Foley. She couldn’t fully explain the “asking for it” comment, saying that she can’t believe those words came out of her mouth. That they did is now Donna’s albatross to bear.
Here, excerpts from the interview.
WWD: What were you asked about Harvey exactly?
Donna Karan: What did I think about what happened to Harvey. And I was confused by the question. I mean, I hadn’t been paying attention to any of the news, and you hear little stories here and a little story there. And quite honestly, it wasn’t my place to say anything. Sometimes the press can kind of gear you on, and I didn’t feel it was appropriate.
WWD: But you did say something.
D.K.: I talked in general that under no circumstances, absolutely none, whether it’s Harvey, whether it’s any man, [no one] has any right whatsoever to touch a woman, to — I mean it’s unacceptable. I mean, certainly from me. That’s just who I am as a woman, as a mother.
WWD: But that’s not what you said. So let’s go back. I understand
SHANGHAI – The Prada Group has unveiled its latest restoration project: Rong Zhai is a restored mansion in downtown Shanghai, which will be used as a multi-purpose brand and cultural space.
As well as re-showing Prada’s resort 2018 collection and inviting a select group of influencers and celebrities – including director Baz Lurhmann, actress Zhang Ziyi, model Liu Wen and artist Cao Fei – for an intimate dinner at the mansion on Wednesday, the doors of Rong Zhai were thrown open to 1,000 guests for a cocktail party on Saturday night.
The evening included a performance by actor and musician Ansel Elgort, the face of Prada L’Homme fragrance, and among the guests were Du Juan and Alexander Wang.
The unveiling of Rong Zhai – the name translates to “Rong House” – comes following a six-year renovation. Miuccia Prada and her husband Patrizio Bertelli, chief executive officer of the Milan-based group, are not new to such initiatives of preservation. They have supported the restoration of Milan’s 19th-century luxury shopping arcade Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II and Palazzo Ca’ Corner della Regina, an opulent Baroque palace on the Grand Canal in Venice that was reconfigured as an art space for Fondazione Prada.
“The first question people ask
“In Morocco, I realized that the range of colors I use was that of the zelliges, zouacs, djellabas and caftans. The boldness seen since then in my work, I owe to this country, to its forceful harmonies, to its audacious combinations, to the fervor of its creativity. This culture became mine, but I wasn’t satisfied with absorbing it; I took, transformed and adapted it.” — Yves Saint Laurent
“When Yves Saint Laurent first discovered Marrakech in 1966, he was so moved by the city that he immediately decided to buy a house here, and returned regularly. It feels perfectly natural, 50 years later, to build a museum dedicated to his oeuvre, which was so inspired this country.” — Pierre Bergé
“We immediately fell in love with the city, the people, this country. We were so enamored that at the end of our stay, in the plane taking us home, we already had a binding sales agreement in our hands for the house we would purchase in the medina — Dar el Hanch [The House of the Serpent]. It’s when our passion for Morocco began.” — Yves Saint Laurent
“I have a real passion for the gardens of Marrakech. And for their colors that are
MARRAKESH, Morocco – “I am sure that they are watching us from above and that they are insanely proud,” said Betty Catroux, as she toured the Yves Saint Laurent museum in Marrakesh on the eve of its inauguration.
The couturier’s longtime muse, instantly recognizable with her skinny frame, pole straight white hair and dark glasses, was soaking in the main exhibition hall at the museum: a cavernous black space where a row of black outfits faced off against creations in a riot of bright colors inspired by the Moroccan city.
The institution is set to open to the public on Oct. 19, a little more than a month after the death of Pierre Bergé, Saint Laurent’s longtime companion and business partner, who supervised every aspect of a project that crystalized both his love for the designer, who died in 2008, and the country that was their second home since the Sixties.
“I feel very emotional,” Catroux said during Friday’s preview visit. “Fortunately, being religious, I feel emotional and high, instead of emotional and depressed.”
She recalled coming to Marrakesh alone and joining Saint Laurent in a little pavilion between the two villas where they were staying.
“We would meet like lovers, have drinks and gossip.
NEW YORK — After 15 years of personal and professional partnership, Proenza Schouler founders Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez seem close to becoming a single creative entity.
It’s impossible to tell who drew which sketch for their most recent collection and they even dress in a similar, staunchly normcore fashion; like Larry David, if he were a young aesthete. During Thursday night’s talk with former CNN host Alina Cho at the Metropolitan Museum of Art here as part of the museum’s “Atelier With Alina Cho” series, McCollough dressed in a red pullover and black Adidas Gazelles, while Hernandez wore a black pullover and black Nike Air Force 1s. They had on almost identical charcoal skinny jeans.
This “morphing,” as McCullough put it, started in design school and probably lent itself to what seems to have been a conflict-free decision to move their runway presentations to Paris after spending their entire careers in New York.
“It was bittersweet for us to leave New York,” McCollough said. “I think New York is so good at fostering the young and up-and-coming and I think if we’d lived in one of the other fashion capitals, we wouldn’t have necessarily had the same opportunities that we had being
True Religion wants in with the “in” crowd. To do that, the Manhattan Beach, Calif.-based denim firm is set to launch a limited-edition capsule Monday, linking with Hypebeast and Hypebae on the rollout.
The media company focused on men’s streetwear and fashion and its sister site Hypebae, aimed at women, was seen as the “premier partner in publishing” to align with, explained True Religion chief marketing officer Tara Peyrache.
“We have a pretty strong following and folks that really love this brand for the aesthetic value around fleece and denim and thought this was definitely an assortment we wanted to get our arms around,” Peyrache added.
The collection, dubbed The Great Revolt Capsule, totals 30 unisex pieces described as a blend of influences between the street and military. The pieces, all made domestically, include a reversible Sherpa jacket, wide-leg cargo pant and oversize parka with details such as raw hems and neutral color palette of black and muted Army green.
The Great Revolt is priced from $89 to $499 and will be sold on the True Religion web site. Special events kick off in Hong Kong Monday followed by a shopping event at True Religion’s Carnaby Street store on Oct. 18. New York will cap
Anastasia Beverly Hills
Athletic Propulsion Labs
Athletic Propulsion Labs
Founder and CEO
Matteo Del Vecchio
President, North America
Fear of God
Creative Director and Founder
Lauren Bush Lauren
Founder and CEO
Founder and CEO
Director of Fashion Partnerships
Founder, President and CEO
Cofounder and CEO
Ministry of Supply
Cofounder and President
Carrie Fisher Tharp
Neiman Marcus Group
Chief Marketing Officer
Rebecca de Ravenel
Rebecca De Ravenel
Designer and Owner
Creative Director and CEO
Rent the Runway
CEO and Cofounder
Founder and CEO
Founder and Creative Director, Tim Coppens, and
Executive Creative Director, UAS (Under Armour Sportswear),
Brand Ambassador and Investing Partner
Cofounder and CEO
Principal, Store No. 8, and Vice President, Incubation, Wal-Mart Global E-commerce
Cofounder and CEO
Cofounder and Creative Director
Cofounder and CEO
The Black Tux
Cofounder and Co-CEO
Janki Lalani Gandhi
For more on the 40 under 40:
WWD Toasts 40 Industry Leaders Under 40
LONDON — Gucci’s new anti-fur policy made waves when it was revealed on Wednesday night, and the question remains whether other megabrands will now be under pressure to follow suit.
Saga Furs, the Finland-based auction house that supplies the likes of Fendi, Louis Vuitton and Versace, believes that many brands — large and small — will remain committed to fur.
Charlie Ross, Saga’s head of sustainability, said on the sidelines of the company’s presentation and sales campaign at the Savoy Hotel here, that demand both from established and young labels is high — and that prices have been rising.
“We’ve had a great 15-year relationship with Gucci, we were sorry to see them go, but we are happy that this is not a Kering decision. We have spoken to Kering and many other Kering brands will continue using Saga-certified furs,” Ross said the day after Gucci revealed its decision to go fur-free. In addition to Gucci and Stella McCartney, which also doesn’t use fur or leather, Kering owns Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen, Bottega Veneta and Saint Laurent.
The group said it wants to allow its brands freedom to make their own decisions regarding the use of fur.
“Gucci’s new policy was based upon a decision taken
Considering that it is a garment worn by a near estimated 100 million women in India alone and many more around South and Central Asia, the sari has gone relatively undocumented.
Realizing there was a knowledge gap and that increasing urbanization was eroding some of the sari’s daily wear in favor of western dress, Malika Kashyap decided to begin The Sari Series. The non-profit project comprises an anthology, documenting how to drape over 80 sari styles through short films, and three videos exploring the garment’s past, present, and future.
The project’s aim is multi-pronged. First, it acts as a record preserving regional variations, which are myriad. What most people picture when they think of a sari is in fact a single style of draping, known as the Nivi. Secondly, the series also asks viewers to ponder the garment’s role going forward, and it’s Kashyap’s hope that it will serve as inspiration for people to continue innovating with the sari.
Kashyap spoke exclusively to WWD about the project, a $175,000 undertaking backed by luxury Indian sustainable retailer Good Earth and Kickstarter:
WWD: How was this project conceived?
Malika Kashyap: The idea behind this project is two-fold. First, to develop an accessible cultural documentation of the sari though film and
PARIS — For the second chapter of its handbag collaboration with Jeff Koons, Louis Vuitton has co-opted two icons of French Impressionism: Claude Monet and Édouard Manet.
The new installment of the Louis Vuitton Masters collection, due to go on sale in 150 Vuitton stores worldwide on Oct. 27, will feature prints of paintings including Monet’s “Water Lilies,” on show at the National Museum of Western Art in Tokyo, and Manet’s “The Luncheon on the Grass,” now in the Musée d’Orsay in Paris.
“Manet has always been one of the most important artists to me. To work with the image of ‘The Luncheon on the Grass’ gave me the opportunity to emphasize the importance of artists giving it up to each other,” Koons said in a statement.
“Within ‘The Luncheon on the Grass,’ Manet is referencing Titian’s ‘Pastoral Concert,’ as well as [Marcantonio] Raimondi’s engraving ‘The Judgment of Paris,’ which was based on a drawing by Raphael. It’s a history of humanism, of artists enjoying each other’s work and learning to find their way through each other,” he added.
One of the bags featuring Monet’s painting appears in an advertisement for the collection starring Léa Seydoux, one of Vuitton’s brand ambassadors, perched on a giant
ANTWERP, Belgium — “It marks the closing of a perfect 20-year cycle,” said Olivier Theyskens during a preview Wednesday of his retrospective “Olivier Theyskens: She Walks in Beauty” at the MoMu fashion museum here, which traces in strict chronological order the five key phases of his career.
Named after a line from the poem penned by George Gordon Byron, aka Lord Byron, in 1813, as a piece that chimes with Theyskens’ own penchant for dark romance and historical references, the show — organized as a series of graphic black-and-white spaces that the visitor walks through, with Theyskens’ creations grouped in powerful tableaus on podiums — follows the designer’s evolution from the creation of his namesake line in 1997 to his explorations of French elegance at Rochas and Nina Ricci, from 2003 to 2006 and 2006 to 2009 respectively, followed by a curveball three-and-a-half-year stint at American sportswear label Theory from 2010, and wraps with pieces from the current fall collection of his resurrected signature line. Positioned as a prêt-à-porter brand with a “couture spirit,” the new direction is a little purer in essence but with all the signatures in place, including Theyskens’ deceptively simple tailor’s cuts.
Highlights of the show include a