Beauty Headlines

India Hicks, Catherine Walsh Create Skin-care Line Unexpected Beauty

If an aristocratic lifestyle guru and former model were to create a skin-care line with a veteran luxury beauty executive, what would it look like?
The answer is Unexpected Beauty, a brand created by India Hicks and Catherine Walsh that marries a simple, natural skin-care approach with high-tech innovations. The five-piece line launches today on Hick’s e-commerce site and via her network of direct sales ambassadors.
“I had been asked for years, ‘Why not do a beauty line?’ since I had bath and body collections with HSN and Crabtree & Evelyn and I did a beauty book. But I never took beauty seriously. It wasn’t my thing,” said Hicks, the model who parlayed her fashion experience into a home entertaining and lifestyle brand that is now available to all through IndiaHicks.com, a California-based e-commerce portal she launched in 2015.
“I was always a tomboy. I didn’t do facials or care what brand I used, but I realized I was about to be 50 and I had lived 25 years in the tropical sun of the Bahamas and suddenly I thought it was time to get serious,” she said.
When she finally went shopping for products, she found the choices confusing. She didn’t have time

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Kim Jones’s last Louis Vuitton show ends in super-charged bang

Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell flank streetwear champ at Paris fashion week

Kim Jones shock decision to quit as men’s artistic director of Louis Vuitton meant his final show at the Grand Palais in Paris was always going to be crammed with the great, the good and the starry. That it was easier to get a reaction from Kate Moss – the world’s most famous, yet most silent supermodel – than from Jones himself, was testament to the significance of his departure.

Moss, who walked into the show with Naomi Campbell, was in good spirits: “It was amazing – of course!” she said of her catwalk appearance, “but it always is,” before adding cheerily, “emotional, yes, but it’s on to the next chapter.”

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Captain Blankenship to Unveil Lower-Priced Line at Target

Organic Indie beauty brand Captain Blankenship is introducing a lower-priced little sister brand exclusively at Target.
Sailor by Captain Blankenship is this month rolling out to 1,668 Target doors — that’s almost all of the retailer’s 1,834 store total — and target.com. The line consists of five skin and hair products that are unisex and formulated with plant-based ingredients. Prices range from $14.99 to $19.99.
Captain Blankenship — which is based in New York’s Hudson River Valley and is in about 250 U.S. doors at retailers like Credo, Follain, sephora.com and Anthropologie — is perhaps best known for its signature Mermaid hair franchise, including a sea salt spray, hair oil, dry shampoo and a gold-flecked shine spray that gives hair an Instagrammable glimmer effect. All of Captain Blankenship’s products are formulated with wild-harvested, organic plant oils, flowers, seaweeds, sea salt and organic essential oils, and without synthetic preservatives, parabens, sulfates and non-natural fragrances. That kind of specific formulation can come at a price — Captain Blankenship’s products run up to $38, higher than the average beauty item at Target.
The retailer approached founder Jana Blankenship about creating an exclusive, lower-priced line based off her Captain Blankenship formulations. A visit to Target headquarters last year proved

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Restorsea Grows in Doctor Channel, Plans to License IP

Patti Pao’s trip to a Norwegian salmon hatchery planted an idea for a beauty business.
After seeing the hands of the workers who herded salmon fry from a synchronized hatching process into their next holding tank, Pao, who has a beauty background that spans Avon, Elizabeth Arden and Guerlain, was stunned.
“Everyone’s hands were in this hatching water…their hands looked like they were 20, and their faces looked a lot older,” Pao said.
Her line, Restorsea, was born after Pao teamed with academics affiliated with the lab to take the water from the hatching zone, which contains an enzyme Restorsea calls Aquabeautine XL that helps the salmon break out of their shells, and pumped it into her products, she said.

Salmon hatching process.
Werner juvik

“They can’t peck their way out like a chicken, so the enzyme dissolves the eggshell and creates the opening,” Pao said. “When you apply this enzyme in a concentrated state to human skin it has the same effect….It’s the only exfoliator that we know of that selectively cleaves. It only digests the dead skin cells and leave the other skin in tact.”
Launched in 2012, Restorsea has 53 high-net-worth backers and has raised $55 million in capital. Pao holds exclusive rights to

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Not Your Mother’s Hair Color: Coty Reveals New Life for Nice ‘n Easy

Coty has a blueprint to revive sales in the dull at-home hair color market. First up is the reboot of Nice ‘n Easy, the biggest update in the brand’s 60-plus year history.
Nice ‘n Easy, which Coty acquired from Procter & Gamble in 2015, is the largest hair color in the company’s stable. Its sales, however, declined 10 percent in the most recent 52-week period, ended Dec. 3, tracked in multiunit doors by IRI to $90 million. To reverse that trend, Coty is transforming at-home hair color into a spa experience rather than a budgetary choice or a nagging chore. Retailers said that’s been accomplished, they feel, by removing the biggest barriers to box choices, namely fear of damage, smell and messy formulas. Many contacted by WWD expect to see Nice ‘n Easy sales expand by at least 25 percent with the new effort.
“Today’s consumers are demanding products that address their top wants, needs and concerns, though true innovation in the at-home color category to address these needs has been long overdue,” stated Laurent Kleitman, president of Global Consumer Beauty for Coty. He added the launch of the new Nice ‘N Easy is the “dawn of a new era for Clairol

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Michelle Shigemasa Joins Murad as CEO, Plans Digital Focus

Murad is upping its focus on digital under new chief executive officer Michelle Shigemasa.
Shigemasa, who had been with the Estée Lauder Cos. for close to two decades, took the helm of the prestige skin-care brand in late 2018. Most recently, Shigemasa was with Smashbox, where she held a variety of roles including senior vice president and general manager for North America, most recently. Before that she was with Bobbi Brown, and before that she was a buyer at Nordstrom.
Murad — a skin-care brand — allows Shigemasa to expand her expertise, she said.
“The category of skin care was very appealing to me as well as stretching my responsibilities into new territory,” Shigemasa said. Her reasons for joining Murad include founder Dr. Howard Murad, the company’s overall wellness philosophy and “last but not least” — free facials, she said. “My skin can use a little work — the doctor is keeping me in check,” Shigemasa said.
Murad, which had more than $100 million in sales when it sold to Unilever in 2014, is on track for double-digit growth in 2018, according to industry sources. The line has a problem-solution approach that targets skin concerns like acne, wrinkles and age spots. It’s sold at Sephora,

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Shiseido Re-opens Flagship Store in Ginza

TOKYO — After several months of renovations, Shiseido will on Friday re-open its flagship store in the upscale Tokyo neighborhood of Ginza. Previously called Shiseido The Ginza, the shop will now be called Shiseido The Store, and will place a greater emphasis on the company’s prestige brands.
“This location is the site where Shiseido’s cosmetics business was first established, “ said Masahiko Uotani, president and chief executive officer of the company. “In 1916, the second generation (company leader), Shinzo Fukuhara, started a full-scale cosmetics business here. It’s a place that holds a very important meaning for Shiseido.”
When the previous incarnation of the store opened in 2011, there was an emphasis on cutting-edge technologies that helped customers to choose the best colors of makeup for their skin tone without having to test the products themselves. The first floor of the store used to be a sampling area for Shiseido’s many brands, ranging from prestige to drugstore offerings. While it was often buzzing with customers, it sometimes felt crowded and chaotic.
Now, when customers enter the store at street level, they will immediately sense its more luxury feel. Focusing only on Shiseido’s prestige brands—currently, Cle de Peau Beauté and Shiseido—it has a more open layout

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Drew Barrymore’s Flower Beauty Blooms in Ulta

Drew Barrymore’s Flower Beauty is growing up.
The brand — cofounded in 2012 by the actor-turned-entrepreneur and design and manufacturing firm Maesa Group — is in February set to roll out to 500 Ulta Beauty doors, its second retail partner after four years of selling exclusively via Wal-Mart. Flower is also sold on its e-commerce site, which was launched last year.
Going into Ulta doors and online are 157 stockkeeping units — about two-thirds of Flower’s assortment. Included in this are four Ulta exclusive items — the Galaxy Glaze Holographic Lip, Miracle Matte Metallic Liquid Lip, Wanderlust Eyeshadow Palette and Beauty Flash Full Face Palette.

Flower Beauty Flash Palette

For Ulta Beauty, the launch of Flower coincides with efforts to premium-ize the mass side of its business, which has not garnered as much attention recently as the sizable expansion of its prestige makeup assortment. The retailer last year added niche, low-priced labels such as E.l.f. Cosmetics, Morphe, Sleek Makeup and Beauty Revolution, and is encouraging its mass brands to upgrade fixtures with features like backlighting and testing stations.
Flower will have about four feet of space in Ulta doors.
The expansion into Ulta marks a new growth phase for Flower, which is just one of Barrymore’s product

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Drew Barrymore’s Flower Beauty Blooms in Ulta

Drew Barrymore’s Flower Beauty is growing up.
The brand — cofounded in 2012 by the actor-turned-entrepreneur and design and manufacturing firm Maesa Group — is in February set to roll out to 500 Ulta Beauty doors, its second retail partner after four years of selling exclusively via Wal-Mart. Flower is also sold on its e-commerce site, which was launched last year.
Going into Ulta doors and online are 157 stockkeeping units — about two-thirds of Flower’s assortment. Included in this are four Ulta exclusive items — the Galaxy Glaze Holographic Lip, Miracle Matte Metallic Liquid Lip, Wanderlust Eyeshadow Palette and Beauty Flash Full Face Palette.

Flower Beauty Flash Palette

For Ulta Beauty, the launch of Flower coincides with efforts to premium-ize the mass side of its business, which has not garnered as much attention recently as the sizable expansion of its prestige makeup assortment. The retailer last year added niche, low-priced labels such as E.l.f. Cosmetics, Morphe, Sleek Makeup and Beauty Revolution, and is encouraging its mass brands to upgrade fixtures with features like backlighting and testing stations.
Flower will have about four feet of space in Ulta doors.
The expansion into Ulta marks a new growth phase for Flower, which is just one of Barrymore’s product

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In the Bull’s Eye: Target Plans to Make More Dollars With Scents

Target has a new formula it hopes will revitalize the diluted mass-market fragrance business. In keeping with chain’s exclusive product strategy, the chain is rolling out its own fragrance line called Good Chemistry. The range of scents was crafted to provide the discounter with entry into the niche fragrance business that is bubbling at prestige retailer doors. Good Chemistry will be sold in all of Target’s 1,834 stores and on target.com.
The upgraded fragrance launch is the latest move by the retailer to rewrite the rules in mass beauty, a category that is estimated to churn out more than $7 billion in sales at Target’s stores. Industry sources project Good Chemistry can yield first year sales of at least $5 million to $8 million. Target did not comment on sales figures.
There is no denying the effort the chain is making in beauty as it seeks to offer first-to-market products that distinguish the discounter from competitors. Target recently lowered gondolas, expanded its Beauty Concierge program and built out areas for product discovery. With those upgrades resonating with shoppers, Target is ready up the ante in fragrances.
“This builds on what we’ve been doing — upgrading our store environment to create that specialty store

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Off-White keeps it business casual at Paris fashion week

While men’s fashion was rocked by a big-name departure at Louis Vuitton, Virgil Abloh stayed cool

The autumn menswear shows in Paris began this week with shock and hype: shock that Kim Jones was stepping down as men’s artistic director at Louis Vuitton, and hype generated by Off-White fashion house, which caused a near-ruckus of bumbags outside the Pompidou Centre on Wednesday morning.

Off-White was founded by Virgil Abloh, a 36-year-old architect, streetwear designer and DJ. Until recently, he was best known as the multi-hyphenate Instagram associate of Kanye West, for whom he has worked as an artistic director and cameo star in Keeping Up With The Kardashians.

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Are there any fashion photographers not accused of sexual harassment?

The suspension of Bruce Weber and Mario Testino, along with Terry Richardson, after multiple accusations, means Vogue has to find some new snappers

Now that Mario Testino and Bruce Weber are suspended from Condé Nast following allegations of sexual exploitation, who the heck is left to take photos for Vogue?
Vanessa by email

Zac the intern using his iPhone? I jest, obviously (all Vogue interns are called things like Lady Charlotte Aristo de Money and Kate Moss’s Daughter). But it’s certainly true that the biggest photographers in the industry seem to be falling like skittles, what with Terry Richardson suspended last year, and now Weber and Testino, felled by allegations of sexual misconduct and abuse of male models and assistants. All deny the allegations, but Condé Nast, to its credit, suspended the photographers as soon as the story was published in the New York Times last weekend, suggesting reaction times have improved of late. After all, Condé Nast International didn’t drop Richardson until – hmmmm, let me check my diary – October last year, even though some of us were writing about the multiple allegations against him five years ago. I guess suspending accused molesters just wasn’t in fashion back then.

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Dr. Brandt Skin Care Thrives Three Years After Founder’s Tragic Death

It has been almost three years since Dr. Fredric Brandt, once called the Baron of Botox, was found dead in an apparent suicide. Under the leadership of Stephane Colleu, Dr. Brandt Skin Care continues to build upon the groundwork established by its founder by building a cadre of experts to continue the vision.
“Our story is very unique because of the situation we had to face, despite having a unique concept being one of the first doctor skin-care lines [Dr. Brandt debuted in 1996],” Colleu, the president and chief executive officer of the company, told WWD. Beyond losing the brand’s mastermind, the company also faced mounting physician brand competition. But thanks in part to tapping the expertise of a Skin Advisory Board, Colleu said the company’s volume is expanding on target. Since Brandt’s death, Colleu reported more than a 40 percent growth rate. “We had our best year ever,” he said of 2017. Industry sources estimated current sales approaching $80 million on the path to $150 million by 2020. The privately held company did not discuss estimates.
The latest addition to the Skin Advisory Board, which sports several high-level skin-care specialists, provides a glimpse of where Dr. Brandt Skin Care is headed.

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Think Tank: Latest Beauty Tech Signals Industry Makeover

To say that technology has “disrupted” beauty is an understatement. Our personal-care devices are all connected — and the quality of biometric data they are able to collect has doubled. Whether it’s how we brush our hair or our teeth, beauty tools can track the behaviors and patterns of our daily life. At the same time, technologies like smart mirrors, augmented reality and machine learning are making the consumer experience more intuitive, custom and inspiring than ever before. But this is all just a foreshadowing of what’s coming next.
This year at CES — the annual mecca for technology and innovation — Beauty Tech stole the spotlight with five trends that are sure to reshape consumer decisions and preferences forever. The beauty routine is about to get a massive digital makeover — and only those who stay ahead of the curve will survive.
DIY Beauty
DIY is rapidly invading the beauty space — making it likely that the beauty expert as we now know it might soon be irrelevant. Technologies designed to put consumers in charge of their own skin emerged this year at CES: from intelligent masks and moisture sprays that put spa-quality facial treatments in the palm of your hand to a bespoke skin-care formulator that

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Chanel Opens First Fragrance and Beauty Store in Milan

MILAN — Milanese beauty addicts can circle a new shopping destination on their maps: On Tuesday, Chanel inaugurated its first fragrance and beauty store here, situated in the city’s iconic Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II shopping arcade.
As reported, the unit marks the label’s third beauty store in Italy, after the openings in Florence in 2015 and Venice last year.
Covering two levels, the 700-square-foot store showcases makeup, skin care and perfume lines in an environment that’s defined by the fashion house’s signature black, beige, white and gold tones.

The Chanel Fragrance and Beauty store in Milan.
Courtesy Photo

Product-wise, the store carries the brand’s full beauty range, including limited-edition makeup and color palettes; Les Exclusifs line of fragrances — made of 16 scents inspired by the life of Coco Chanel — and the signature Huile de Jasmin skin-care product.
The Le Blanc skin-care line, aimed at the Asian market, and the limited-edition Le Signe du Lion powder highlighter are also exclusively available at the store.
In addition, the brand’s latest sunglasses styles are showcased in a dedicated corner.

Chanel’s Le Signe du Lion powder.
Courtesy Photo

To boost the shopping experience, a Beauty Lounge has been installed on the upper level to provide makeup stations and cosmetic treatments to customers, including

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Beauty Brands Focuses on Hair, Makes Growth Plan

The new chief executive officer of Beauty Brands has her eyes on a prize — turning the Midwest beauty chain into “the hair authority.”
Caryn Lerner, who took the helm of the TSG Consumer-owned retailer last February, has spent her first year on the job working toward that goal. She’s also working on updating store interiors and plotting overall expansion, in terms of both the top and bottom line, as well as store count.
“The business was a little stagnant and underperforming when I came on board,” Lerner said. “My role here is to strengthen the vision and the mission of the business.” Hence the company’s decision to hone in on hair.

Caryn Lerner, Beauty Brands ceo.

“It’s an own-able point of difference for us as a brand, and it’s where our heritage is,” Lerner, who has retail experience that spans Bloomingdale’s, Barneys New York and Holt Renfrew, said.
As it stands, about 70 percent of the retailer’s offerings in its 61 stores are in the prestige and professional hair segments. “It’s not just shampoo and conditioner, but all different sorts of styling aids, accessories, color…extensions — men’s grooming we lump into there,” Lerner said.
Beauty Brands has more than 700 salon and spa professionals across its

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The Assassination of Gianni Versace review – a grim portrait of gay life

In his follow-up to The People v OJ Simpson, Ryan Murphy spins the designer’s murder into a compelling story of deceit, ambition and what it meant to be gay at the turn of the century

The title of the new season of Ryan Murphy’s American Crime Story is tailor-made to drum up anticipation: “The Assassination of Gianni Versace”, it reads, invoking one of the most notorious murders of the 1990s.

Where the first installment of the anthology series – The People v OJ Simpson – was about exactly that, this time both the name and the promotional material amount to a shiny, sequined red herring. The assassination in question takes place in the very first scene of the series and, unlike the crimes of which Simpson was accused, there’s no ensuing legal battle that grips the country, collectively watching a White Bronco on the 405. So Murphy, television’s pre-eminent dramatist, quite literally flips the script. Versace doesn’t reach the heights of season one, and it’s slow to boil, but at it’s best it makes for thrilling, macabre, deliciously campy television.

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From Meghan Markle to Marlene Dietrich: who is your pencil skirt icon?

Pencil skirts are back in fashion – Miuccia Prada has decreed it so. And – from Michelle Obama to Marilyn Monroe – there are many ways to wear them

News from the spring/summer 2018 catwalks: according to Prada and Gucci, pencil skirts are back at the sharp edge of fashion. But are you a pencil skirt kind of person?After all, there are pros and cons when it comes to pencil skirts. You couldn’t ride a bike in one. You might not have much luck running for the bus. But as a counterpoint to a voluminous top, or a way to feel more pulled-together in the office, they can be pretty handy, as this quintet of pencil skirt patrons prove.

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Coty Develops Amazon Echo Show Technology

Coty Inc. is getting ready — with Amazon’s Alexa.
The beauty conglomerate has developed a skill specifically for the Amazon Echo Show — the version of the company’s voice-activated service that includes a video screen — called Let’s Get Ready. The program will be deployed in the U.K. Wednesday and offers consumers a way to not only shop across several Coty consumer brands (Rimmel, Max Factor, Boujois, Sally Hansen and Clairol), but to learn different beauty looks.
“What we like to think is that this will show the consumer the value of certain products in the portfolio and help them get what they want, which leads to shopping,” said Fred Gerantabee, Coty’s vice president of digital innovation.
To start, users say: “Alexa, let’s get ready.” Then, the program walks a potential shopper through either beauty trends — like the unicorn look or matte lips — or suggests looks based on events in the user’s life. Let’s Get Ready can also draw data directly to Facebook (when linked), so it can potentially match a party to a smoky eye, for example. Once a look is selected, the program walks users through application steps — pausing after each new direction — and users can elect

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Felicity Jones on Her Latest Roles: Clé de Peau Face and Ruth Bader Ginsburg

British actress Felicity Jones, who earned an Oscar nomination for her role as Jane Hawking in “The Theory of Everything,” will be taking on two very different roles in 2018: the global face of Shiseido-owned Clé de Peau and the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg in the upcoming film “The Basis of Sex.”
The former launches today in the U.S., as the David Sims-shot ads featuring Jones will make their debut at a party honoring her at the Hotel Bel-Air. The latter, which costars Armie Hammer and Ginsburg’s husband Marty, will hit theaters at the end of this year.
Jones sat down with WWD in a suite at The Beverly Hills Hotel, where she was doing global press to support her new campaign, which also marks the cosmetics and skin-care line’s relaunch.
“I knew their concealer very well because it’s in every makeup artist’s kit and it’s fantastic,” she said. “So I knew the products, but in working with the brand I got to know them very well and how they work, and I’ve been impressed by their precision, their attention to detail and their love of quality. They do everything incredibly carefully.”
With her porcelain skin, rosy cheeks and dark blue eyes, the 34-year-old

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