Beauty Headlines

Toni Mascolo obituary

Hairdresser who was the business brains behind the Toni & Guy empire he built up with his brother Gaetano

Toni Mascolo was not in hairdressing for fashion, fame or art. He expressed his creativity not in extreme cut or colouring but in a novel business structure through his family firm, Toni & Guy. From his teens, Mascolo, who has died aged 75, was his own accountant, business adviser and advertising director, with an immigrant’s willingness to work full-speed from 8am to 10pm six days a week and concoct hair lacquer in bulk from raw ingredients in the back room should there be an hour’s slack in trade.

Mascolo understood from early on that the trade was descended from the guild system, where apprentices learned on the job, served time with a local master, then often split to found a new business. Its services were not reliable in standards or geographic spread. He introduced franchising, where every salon provided a brand-guaranteed level of service, but allowed the franchisee independence within a family. There are now almost 500 Toni & Guy salons in nearly 50 countries.

Continue reading…      

Read more

‘The Scent’ Exhibition in Dubai Aims to Spotlight Niche Fragrances

Shahzad Haider, chairman of the Fragrance Foundation Arabia, aims to inject a note of perfume artistry and exclusivity into arguably the richest market in the world with a three-day exhibition, called The Scent.
The event will be held from January 23 to 25 in Jumeirah Emirates Towers in the center of Dubai.
Haider expects to draw more than 5,000 visitors over the three days, consisting mostly of traders, distributors , retailers and marketers, largely from the UAE, Saudi Arabia, Kuwait, Bahrain, Iran, Turkey and Russia. Attendance is by invitation only and there’s no charge, Haider said.
The exhibition will consist of stands manned by fragrance brands and there currently are 70 brands involved. But the list is still being finalized, said Haider, who declined to give names. The head of the advisory board is Chantal Roos, cofounder of Roos & Roos.
Haider described the brands as “very private, very niche, very artistic.”
He estimated that the exhibitors will originate mostly from Europe, the U.S. and Russia, with the smallest number coming from the Middle East.
The region historically has been one of the biggest consumers of fragrance. The show’s brochure states that for every 100 milliliters of fragrance sprayed in the rest of the world, three

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Read More…      

Read more

Augmented Reality Makes the Jump to Beauty Training

Augmented reality has a new role in the beauty industry.
Estée Lauder, in conjunction with Perfect Corp., is launching a live AR makeup education program for the brand’s more than 17,000 beauty advisors around the world. The Estée Lauder Augmented Reality Training powered by YouCam technology is an interactive live-stream platform offering the ability to host real-time trainings and product briefings directly from the beauty advisors’ mobile devices.
The private, live channel elevates the method in which the brand connects with its beauty advisors and sales teams, according to the company. The channel, which is exclusive to Estée Lauder, is accessed via the YouCam Makeup App. The training tool will use AR to educate and inform in an entertaining avenue. Additionally, the advisors will be able to interact and virtually try on featured looks throughout the session. They can also follow along on slide show presentations and ask questions in real-time.
“We are leveraging YouCam technology to create a livestream classroom. Learners have the ability to interact with the teacher and each other in real-time — they can do this by commenting, asking questions, sending likes and virtually trying on looks,” said Colleen Gaetano, vice president, global education for Estée Lauder.
Lauder’s global advisors can connect for

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Read More…      

Read more

Bertrand Lemont Named President of Drom Fragrances North America

Drom Fragrances announced Bertrand Lemont as its new president of North America on Tuesday. Lemont started the position on Sept. 1.
Lemont, who worked at Drom Fragrances in Paris 22 years ago as global account manager, returns to the fragrance company to drive strategy and business development in the U.S. and Mexico.
“I have always been very fond of [Drom Fragrances] and its people,” Lemont said. “In the current U.S. market environment, Drom has an amazing opportunity to capture market shares within the midsize high-growth domestic brands. These brands are looking for the right partner like us that can provide highly creative solutions to their needs while being very agile and quick to market.”
Lemont comes back to Drom with two decades of experience in the fragrance and beauty industries, managing fine fragrance accounts like Estée Lauder, Yves Rocher, L’Oréal, Unilever Prestige, Coty Inc. and Avon. He most recently worked as an industry consultant at large beauty companies and investment firms helping with creative development and fragrance strategy.
He replaces Robert Stapf, who held the role for 15 years and left the company last fall after a restructuring at Drom Fragrances U.S.

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Read More…      

Read more

Lessons Learned: Ilana Jivago Reenters Fragrance Business After Cracking Counterfeiters

Ilana Jivago was flying high in the early Nineties. Her Jivago 24K fragrance, featuring gold leaf pieces suspended in the bottle, eclipsed sales of $100 million.
The thriving business hit a roadblock several years later, the victim of counterfeiters knocking off the original and flooding the market with fakes. Like handbags, counterfeiting is a big business in premium fragrances. Upward of $75 million in annual losses are attributed to counterfeit products in the beauty industry, according to estimates.
“We were growing nicely and had a strong and developing business in high-end department stores and perfumeries,” recalled Jivago. But then she started hearing reports of retailers getting their hands on her premium fragrance that weren’t in her distribution scope. Some customers complained the fragrance wasn’t lasting. “At first I was so busy running my business I couldn’t pay attention and it was just a trickle.”
A keen-eyed border patrol agent in Laredo, Tex., saw a truck loaded with 32,000 bottles of her scent and contacted the company to make sure it was an expected delivery. That’s when Jivago realized counterfeiters were siphoning off her business. She embarked on a five-year journey to trace the sources and shut down the counterfeiting ring. Along the way, she

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Read More…      

Read more

Juara Adopts Social-Selling Model

For Juara’s new social-selling model, the natural skin-care brand is looking to its foundation in Jamu, the herbal healing tradition of Indonesia.
“In Indonesia, the way that the Jamu tradition is passed on is through a local healer in your village, like a neighborhood doctor,” said Metta Murdaya, cofounder of Juara. “They become known in the community as someone you go to for help and someone who knows about wellness, so really our Juara guides are like that because she is our modern-day Jamu woman.”
Calling its representatives “Juara guides,” the company is recruiting customers as brand ambassadors to sell its skin-care products directly to other customers. The brand is scaling back its retail distribution, working with Birchbox, QVC and Credo Beauty, and focusing mainly on the social-selling model in order to give back to its loyal customers.
“What we find challenging post-recession is everyone wants to be big, but how do you be big but also feel small and connected to people?” Murdaya continued on why the brand adopted the new selling model. “This is our way to grow, but still maintain a personal feel.”
While Juara guides earn a 35 percent commission on their sales, the brand sets no sales quotas or

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Read More…      

Read more

Stars are the new stripes: why fashion is turning to the spiky side

In Europe, fashion’s ubiquitous stars are wrapped up in astronomy and tarot imagery, in the US they have a more political charge. But, from Dior to Clavin Klein, the message is one of spirituality, renewal and inspiration in our fractured times

Shooting through the sky, they bring good luck. In a tarot card reading they mean hope, spirituality, renewal, inspiration and serenity. On Tinder, a blue one is a “super like” (you swiped up, instead of just right, to show that this potential match is your favourite that day). On Snapchat, a large gold one means popularity (someone has replayed your snap in the past 24 hours), while a cluster stands for friendship (you are in a group chat). A marble and brass one on Hollywood Boulevard stands for celebrity; on Uber, the same symbol relates to your manners on late-night journeys home, with particular reference to whether you can hold your drink or are likely to be sick. A red one is communism, but on the US flag a white one stands for one of the 50 states. (More of which later.)

Continue reading…      

Read more

Toni & Guy Cofounder Giuseppe ‘Toni’ Mascolo Dies at 75

LONDON — Giuseppe “Toni” Mascolo, chief executive officer and cofounder of Toni & Guy hair salons, Essensuals and Label.m, has died aged 75, in London, his family said.
“It is with deepest sorrow that this weekend we said our final goodbyes to our founder, leader, husband, father and grandfather, Giuseppe Toni Mascolo,” wrote his family in a statement. “We all loved him in life as we will love him in death. He will be dearly missed.”
In 1963, brothers Giuseppe (Toni) and Gaetano (Guy) Mascolo started Toni & Guy, Britain’s first unisex hair salon, after learning the craft from their hairdresser father Francesco Mascolo. The pair’s brothers Bruno and Anthony joined the company in 1973.
Born in Southern Italy, Mascolo was one of five sons who emigrated to the U.K. with their parents in 1955. Their father, Francesco, taught Toni and his siblings how to cut hair at a young age and Toni later became Francesco’s assistant at Viccari’s salon in Cox Street, Mayfair. In 1963, Toni & Guy opened the doors of its first salon in London’s Clapham.
The family further expanded their business in 1979, launching the Tigi brand, which offered gel and accessories such as rollers and scissors. Thirty years later

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Read More…      

Read more

Cold comfort: how to be warm and fashionable at the same time

Getting the balance between stylish and snug has never been easier – thanks to faux fur, snow boots and blanket chic

In case you haven’t noticed it’s VERY COLD outside. It is forecast to be 6C and raining in London on Wednesday, 4C in Edinburgh, 2C in Belfast – and even colder at the weekend. So, what can you wear to look even vaguely fashionable when what you really want to do is swaddle up in layers of blankets? Er, swaddle up in blankets. Thanks to blue-chip catwalk brands such as Burberry, Céline and Balenciaga, it is entirely acceptable – alpha, even.

Other items that will keep the chill out but make sure you’re not letting style standards slip could feasibly come from Blacks, the outdoors shop. Looking like you go hiking on the weekends, even when you’re actually eating crumpets and catching up on Blue Planet II, is very fashionable currently. Invest in a gilet, chunky socks and a pair of walking boots.

Continue reading…      

Read more

Toni & Guy co-founder Giuseppe Toni Mascolo dies aged 75

Italian-born hairdresser founded global hairdressing chain and brand with younger brother in London more than 50 years ago

Giuseppe Toni Mascolo, the co-founder of hairdressing chain Toni & Guy, has died aged 75, his family has said.

Italian-born Mascolo established the first of the salons in Clapham, south London, in 1963 with his younger brother Gaetano, known as Guy.

Continue reading…      

Read more

NYX Professional Makeup’s Newest Tool: Virtual Reality Tutorials

NYX Professional Makeup, which already operates some of the most technology-loaded retail doors in the beauty industry, is launching virtual reality makeup tutorials in select stores starting on Dec. 18.
The L’Oréal-owned beauty brand teamed with Samsung Electronics America to fuse beauty and technology using Samsung Gear VR.
Called the “Impossibly NYX Professional Makeup” experience, NYX turned to a VR product agency called Cubicle Ninjas to help link NYX customers to brand ambassadors. Several technologies, such as light field capture, are harnessed to enhance the experience featuring three makeup tutorials lead by beauty vloggers Kristen Leanne, Mykie (also known as “Glam & Gore”) and Karen Sarahi Gonzalez. Consumers can use the Gear VR Controller powered by Oculus to select products they would like to learn more information about, and at the end of the experience, users will receive a special offer to purchase the products featured in the tutorial at a special price. NYX stores already offer experiences such as scanners to learn more about products, selfie sharing and in-store video tutorials.
“NYX Professional Makeup is a digitally native brand with millions of followers across our global social media platforms,” said Mehdi Mehdi, vice president of digital at NYX Professional Makeup. “We aim to

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Read More…      

Read more

Writhing in linguine is fine, Emily Ratajkowski, if that’s your thing – but it’s not feminist

The model took part in a fashion video where she danced around while rubbing pasta on her oiled body, drawing criticism from some quarters. Our style expert, in her weekly column, says not everything needs to have an ideological underpinning

I see there’s been controversy about Emily Ratajkowski. What is this about? Samantha, by email

Here’s what I think about Emily Ratajkowski: I think we should all think a lot less about Emily Ratajkowski. For those who think so little about her to the point they don’t even know who she is, allow me to catch you up. Ratajkowski is, well, I guess one would call her a model, but it’s a little more complicated than that. She is best known for appearing in the video for Robin Thicke‘s once ubiquitous and now totally forgotten 2013 song, Blurred Lines, and since then she has done some acting but primarily made a career out of looking sexy. And sure, why not? You live your life, Emily.

Continue reading…      

Read more

Unilever Builds Another Brand, Love Beauty and Planet

Unilever is at it again — building a new personal-care brand designed for young consumers in the U.S. market, that is.
Love Beauty and Planet, a line of hair care, styling and body-care products developed with sustainable packaging and ingredients, will rollout to U.S. mass and drug retailers in January.
The Anglo-Dutch consumer goods giant has made headlines during the past few years for its persistent string of acquisitions in both its personal-care and prestige beauty portfolios — the latest is Sundial Brands, announced in November.
But Unilever is not just acquiring brands — it is building them as well, and Love Beauty and Planet is the second to launch in the U.S. market. Last month, WWD reported first that the Anglo-Dutch consumer goods giant will in January rollout ApotheCare Essentials — a botanical-based hair and body cleansing line, incubated by a small, start-up-style team in less than a year at its U.S. headquarters — to a mix of drugstore and e-commerce retailers in the U.S. The line is already available at CVS.
While ApotheCare is a masstige play targeted at Millennials shopping mostly on e-retailers such as Amazon and Birchbox, Love Beauty and Planet is said to be launching with a much wider mass,

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Read More…      

Read more

Former NYX Head Hopes to Work the Same Magic at Bellami

Scott Friedman
Getty Images for NYX Cosmetics

Scott Friedman is ready for his next act.
In his six-plus years as chief executive officer of NYX Professional Makeup, Friedman helped fatten up the company’s sales to exceed an estimated $100 million a year. L’Oréal scooped up the makeup artistry brand, founded by Toni Ko in 1999, three years ago.
After spearheading expansion of NYX into retailers such as Walgreens Boots Alliance and Macy’s, Friedman left his post in August. But the lure of building another company (after a month of global travel) encouraged Friedman to accept the ceo role at Bellami, a hair extension brand. “It doesn’t feel like work,” said Friedman of his new role. “I decided I wanted to do something that is fun and exciting.”
He has a blueprint for growth for Bellami. The brand had estimated sales of $30 million last year, and Friedman sees the potential to build that to more than $1 billion within four or five years. Among the plans are a new headquarters set to open in El Segundo, Calif., next spring and the goal to expand the staff to gear up for growth.
Here, Friedman discusses his vision.
WWD: Were you familiar with Bellami?
Scott Friedman: I had been introduced

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Read More…      

Read more

The Great Essential Oil Debate: The Argument For and Against

To formulate or not to formulate with essential oils?
That has become a key question many skin-care brands now have to ask before developing the cleansers, moisturizers, face oils, masks, serums, essences and more that make up their lines. With the beauty industry divided on the issue — most either firmly for or against these plant extracts, with few in between — the market is left with two opposing camps: natural- and organic-driven lines laden with active essential oils or clean, nontoxic brands that steer clear of them.
While a divide in philosophies has always existed — albeit more behind the scenes — a backlash has emerged as of late. The result: a public outpouring of opinions from customers to brands speaking out against the potential risks essential oils pose for skin. These risks range from allergic reactions to photo-sensitivity to irritation and sensitization of the skin.
A story about a 24-year-old woman in London enduring severe chemical burns on her face and eyes from an essential oil diffuser making headlines last month didn’t help. It only heated the conversation up further.
A move away from chemicals and harsh ingredients in skin care has also spurred a reliance on essential oils for many brands,

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Read More…      

Read more

Eau de humanity: our guide to the best in Christmas perfume gift ideas

Perfume can be the most thoughtful and personal of gifts rather than a last resort, as the Guardian’s resident enthusiast explains

Big perfume has designs on your Christmas. Almost half of all the industry’s money is made in November and December, which is why you have been spritzed more aggressively than usual recently in House of Fraser and loomed over by bus-sized versions of Keira Knightley and Angelina Jolie in the streets outside.

These psychological nudges are important, because 40% of fragrance purchases are apparently “panic buys” – a harried, desperate punt on a name that looks sufficiently luxurious to offset guilt at not having put more thought into a present for a partner, sibling or pet (yes, there are perfumes for animals, it’s 2017 and the world is insane). If the last thing you saw was Kit Harington with a giant pair of legs draped inexplicably over his right shoulder, then maybe you’ll go for the Jimmy Choo scent he’s hawking.

Continue reading…      

Read more

Luxururious winter skin products

This is a tough time of year for your skin, so here are some creams and oils to show it some love

Your skin hates winter. It hates dry air, central heating, the alcohol you swill at festive parties and the icy walk home, too. The joy of this is, though, that you can enjoy the luxury of an old-fashioned face cream, morning and night, along with a little massage of your favourite oil. It’s a chance to feel like you’re feeding your skin, nursing it back to the glossy glow you have evidence of in selfies from June.

Beauty Pie Super Retinol Serum £12.11 for members of beautypie.com
Votary Clarifying Facial Oil £65 libertylondon.com
Tata Harper Creme Riche £185 tataharperskincare.com
Clarins SOS Mask £30 clarins.com
Lixir Skin Vitamin C Paste £32 lixirskin.co.uk
The Ordinary Natural Moisturizing Factors £6.80 theordinary.com
Decléor Prolagene Lift Flash Mask £49 decleor.co.uk
IT Cosmetics Confidence in a Cream £38 itcosmetics.co.uk
Tom Ford Radiant Moisture Soufflé £70 harveynichols.com

Continue reading…      

Read more