Accessories Headlines

Walk This Way: Stuart Weitzman Collection of Shoes Opens at the New York Historical Society

“Give a girl a great pair of shoes and watch her take over the world,” once said Marilyn Monroe. Stuart Weitzman reminisced on the power of that quote while giving a preview of his upcoming exhibition, “Walk This Way: Footwear from the Stuart Weitzman Collection of Historic Shoes” at New York Historical Society.
The New York Historical Society may not be thought of traditionally as the museum of choice for footwear exhibits, but this curation, by Valerie Paley, vice president and chief historian and director of the Center for Women’s History, Edward Maeder, and Jeanne Gardner Gutierrez, places the subject of ladies’ shoes in a cultural and historical context.
“I’ve always believed that shoes tell a deeper story, way more than just covering your feet,” Weitzman said. The designer credits his wife, Jane Gershon Weitzman, for his massive archive of shoes, many seen in the exhibit. Early in their marriage she was unsure about what to gift him and ultimately decided to gift him antique footwear, and from there the collection grew. The archive, he remarked, proved to be a constant source of inspiration.
The exhibit pulls from Weitzman’s private archive as well as pieces owned by the historical society and engages with the

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YNAP Forecasts Fine Jewelry and Luxury Watch Sales of 100 Million Euros by 2020

MILAN – Yoox Net-a-porter Group has debuted the first online destination dedicated to high jewelry and luxury watches on Net-a-porter.
According to YNAP chief executive officer Federico Marchetti, the e-commerce site expects this product segment to reach sales of 100 million euros by 2020.
“High jewelry and timepieces are the perfect complement to high fashion,” Marchetti said. “We saw a high demand for this kind of product in the market and we decided to introduce a new successful category. We think that fine jewelry and luxury watches represent a huge potential for the growth of our online platforms.”
Net-a-porter’s new shopping area currently carries over 40 fine jewelry brands, including Piaget, Cartier, Pomellato, Buccellati and Tiffany & Co, and luxury products priced over 100,000 euros. The section will also feature dedicated content, including a guide explaining how to store and care for fine jewelry.
According to a statement released by YNAP, two-thirds of Net-a-porter’s sales of fine jewelry and watches are finalized by the company’s most loyal big-spending customers, in particular from the United States, U.K. and Hong Kong, and one-fourth of the total purchases are made through the online store’s personal shopping service.
Last year, when Net-a-Porter added Cartier to its product offering, a

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Fendi to Unveil #MeAndMyPeekaboo Digital Campaign

MILAN — Fendi’s staple Peekaboo bags are turning 10 and the brand is launching the #MeAndMyPeekaboo campaign to mark the anniversary with a video and images fronted by Silvia Venturini Fendi, the company’s creative director for accessories, men’s wear and kids’ wear, and her daughters Delfina Delettrez Fendi and Leonetta Luciano Fendi.
The video, which is part of a digital campaign that begins Friday and on fendi.com starting April 24, hinges on the relationship that Silvia Venturini Fendi and her daughters have with the Peekaboo bag, and with one another. “The Peekaboo was born from my desire to do something different from the Baguette, almost a reaction to it, and going back to creating bags the traditional way, with excellent hides, just like only top leather goods makers know how to do,” said Venturini Fendi. “The Baguette was made with many different materials, from denim to mink, but the Peekaboo is more discreet, with the inside revealed only to the wearer; it’s whispered luxury, more intimate. You discover it slowly.”
Venturini Fendi admitted she was moved by the interviews with her daughters, as each was filmed separately, and that she realized “the value an object can acquire, beyond the ownership and the use

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Stuart Weitzman Taps Eraldo Poletto as CEO

Eraldo Poletto has made a leap from a classic Italian footwear brand to a classic American one – jumping to chief executive officer and president of Stuart Weitzman from his former position as ceo of Salvatore Ferragamo SpA.
Poletto will begin his new job on April 30 and will report to Victor Luis, ceo of Weitzman’s parent Tapestry Inc., and will work closely with Weitzman’s creative director, Giovanni Morelli. He succeeds Wendy Kahn, who is leaving the company after serving as Weitzman’s ceo since September 2016.
Poletto suddenly stepped down at Ferragamo in February after less than two years as ceo as the Italian fashion house encountered slower growth and some turmoil in its design studio. Ferragamo is still seeking a fulltime ceo.
Prior to Ferragamo, Poloetto servedf as ceo of Furla from 2010 to 2016 and helped grow and globalize that family-owned brand. From 1997 to 2010, he served in a variety of roles at Retail Brand Alliance, the parent of Brooks Brothers, including as president of strategic development and international business and chief merchandising officer.
“Stuart Weitzman is at important point in the brand’s evolution with the upcoming launch of Giovanni’s first collection and the recent buyback of its Northern China business,

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Nike Creates 3-D Textile for Running Shoes

NEW YORK — Galen Rupp had a secret weapon when he toed the line at Monday’s rain-soaked Boston Marathon: a spanking new shoe from Nike featuring a proprietary 3-D-printed textile that is intended to more effectively wick water. And although he failed to finish, it had more to do with his nutrition than his footwear.
Called the FlyPrint, the sneaker is the latest iteration to be birthed from the Zoom Vaporfly Elite, the shoe worn by Eliud Kipchoge when he ran the fastest marathon ever last year.
Kipchoge was one of three Nike athletes in the brand’s highly publicized Breaking2 project who had attempted to break the two-hour marathon barrier. The Kenyan, who is also the defending Olympic champion, ran 2:00:25 in a private race on a Formula One track in Italy on May 6, 2017, wearing the Vaporfly Elite. His record for the race, which also used a team of pacesetters, was not recognized by the sport’s governing body, so four months later, Kipchoge was ready to take another shot at breaking the world record of 2:02:57 at the flat and fast Berlin Marathon. He won, but in a time of 2:03:32.
One of the problems was heavy rain and 99 percent

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IWC Unveils Sustainability Report

LONDON — IWC is looking to continue its commitment to sustainability and has addressed its goals for 2020 at a presentation held at its New Bond Street store here Monday afternoon. It is the brand’s second sustainability report, with the first one published in 2015.

This is the first report aligned with the standards of the Global Reporting Initiative — a first in the Swiss luxury watch industry. The GRI Standards are global ones for sustainability reporting, and are the global best practices for reporting on a range of economic, environmental and social impacts.

“We believe that sustainable business practices help us to deliver top-line growth and bottom-line results, and mitigate risk,” said Franziska Gsell, chief marketing officer and sustainability committee chair at IWC Schaffhausen. By reporting our progress biannually against measurable targets that are closely aligned with the priorities of our key stakeholders and the U.N. Sustainable Development Goals, we are delivering against our potential for improvement with a sharper and more informed focus on the issues that matter most.”

Among the Compagnie Financière Richemont-owned watch company’s goals set for 2020 include the reduction of packaging by 30 percent, increasing the percentage of women in management positions and reducing greenhouse-gas emissions by 10

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Casadei Celebrates 60th Anniversary With Capsule Collection

SAN MAURO PASCOLI, Italy — Casadei is marking its 60th anniversary this year with the launch of a capsule collection to be unveiled this week at a selection of the brand’s flagships.
The capsule revolves around a single style, a vinyl slingback, trimmed with suede or metallic leather, featuring a new version of the brand’s signature Blade heel, which creative director Cesare Casadei first designed in 2010 and after a series of tests and prototypes finally went into production the following year.
For the capsule, Casadei transformed the sculptural 5-inch Blade heel, crafted from hardened steel, in a kitten version encapsulated in a Plexiglas case.
“This is a pretty, feminine shoe which is extremely easy to wear,” said Casadei, who was inspired by Andy Warhol’s creative Factory in the selection of the materials and the colors, including bright tones of red, yellow, hot pink and blue, as well as metallic shades of gold and silver. “I think this style perfectly embodies the essence of our brand, which perfectly combines artisanal craftsmanship and technology.”

Casadei 60th Anniversary Capsule Collection
Courtesy Photo

Named creative director in 1994, Casadei is the son of Quinto and Flora Casadei, who founded the company in 1958.
Their story mirrors that of the birth and development

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Street Signs: Fila to Unveil Mindblower Footwear and Apparel Collabs, Pop-ups

With a history that dates to 1911, Fila has a lot of heritage to draw from. And Louis W. Colon 3rd, vice president of heritage and trend for the North American arm of the company, has been mining that history since he joined the brand in 2010.
Colon, who had operated Laces sneaker boutique in New York and also created the MySneakers app and Kicksclusive magazine before joining Fila, calls himself a “sneaker entrepreneur.” Since joining Fila he has overseen limited-edition releases, collaborations and brand partnerships within the heritage category for the company, both in the U.S. and internationally.
On April 20, Colon will spearhead the reveal of Fila’s most aggressive offering to date: the reintroduction of its Mindblower running shoe from 1995 that will include a complementary collection of men’s and women’s apparel and accessories for the first time, as well as the opening of three pop-up shops.
“Fila is not known for running shoes, but we actually had a rich history in that in the Nineties,” he said. “And with the chunky shoe and dad trend, we were looking for a place where others have left a void, and that’s retro running shoes.”
Colon said Fila opted to reissue the Mindblower because

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Felix Gray Expands Its Blue Light Filtering Lens Technology

Felix Gray eyewear is entering the prescription lens market.
The collection features lenses that have blue light filtering technology to protect the eyes from digital eye strain. The company was cofounded by David Roger and Chris Benedict in 2015. Roger serves as the company’s chief executive officer.
According to Roger, the blue-light filtering lenses, which also feature an anti-reflective coating, counter the two key issues for consumers who are on their computer screens — or other digital device — all day long: digital eye strain and glare. While initially meant for people who have 20/20 vision or contact lens wearers, the ceo said the company entered the prescription lens market because of demand from its consumer base. The company has been working on the development of the lenses for the last 10 months, he said.
“We started Felix Gray as the solution for the all-too-many people who deal with symptoms associated with staring at a screen for long periods of time. Because it’s our own lens, it was difficult to move into prescription right away,” Roger said.
In addition to eye strain and possible risk of macular degeneration, Roger said one complication from too much blue light — and even LED lighting — is

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Hublot, Italia Independent Sign Licensing Agreement

MILAN — Hublot and Italia Independent have signed a licensing agreement for the production of an eyewear line under the Swiss watch maker’s brand.
The first collection will debut in September.
“This licensing agreement is extremely important to us because it highlights our ability to attract brands of excellence and strengthens the process of relaunching Italia Independent, allowing us to enter a premium eyewear segment with Hublot, a unique company in terms of style, innovation and creativity,” said Italia Independent chief executive officer Giovanni Carlino.
This is the first license between Hublot, which is controlled by French luxury conglomerate LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, and Italia Independent, but their collaboration first kicked off at the end of 2014 and it has generated three limited-edition capsule collections, including exclusive timepieces and frames.
“With this agreement Italia Independent crowns a synergy that has been built up over time, a partnership the fruits of which are destined to last over time because it offers a unique, personal experience that is able to excite and make people dream,” said Italia Independent founder and creative chairman Lapo Elkann. “I am proud of this extraordinary love story that has given Italia Independent the opportunity to share its propensity for innovation and creativity with a

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Raf Simons Designs First Full Eyewear Collection for Calvin Klein Inc.

Raf Simons has unveiled his first full range of eyewear for Calvin Klein Inc.
Produced and distributed by Marchon, the assortments for Calvin Klein 205W39NYC, Calvin Klein and Calvin Klein Jeans will be released incrementally throughout this year.
Simons has thus far only designed one-off sunglasses styles for the brand but not a full offering.
Calvin Klein 205W39NYC eyewear is to encompass both sun and optical styles, ranging from $425 to $525 retail. They will be offered through an exclusive distribution that will include Barneys New York, Neiman Marcus, Dover Street Market, Isetan, Jeffrey and Harvey Nichols.
Calvin Klein brand designs will also include sun and optical styles, priced from $139 to $260 retail. They will be distributed with department store partners such as Bloomingdale’s and Nordstrom.
Calvin Klein Jeans eyewear will include both categories of eyewear as well, priced from $99 to $239 retail. These glasses are to be exclusively distributed through select optical stores. The aforementioned two brands will also see select distribution with optical retailers.
Steve Shiffman, chief executive officer for Calvin Klein Inc., said of the launch: “Raf Simons’ powerful brand vision is driving Calvin Klein forward around the world, category by category. We are extremely proud of the innovative new eyewear

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Marcolin Group, Moendi Establish Marcolin Mexico

Marcolin Group has teamed with Mexican distributor Moendi to form a new venture called Marcolin Mexico.
Marcolin Group will control 51 percent of the new company, which will distribute throughout Mexico the collections of some of the brands manufactured by the Italian firm. The remaining 49 percent will be held by the Goldwasser family, which founded Moendi in the Seventies.
“We are proud to establish this joint venture with the Goldwasser family. Their long-lasting experience in the wholesale and retail eyewear distribution across Mexico will allow Marcolin Group to further grow and strengthen its presence in that area,” said Marcolin Group chief executive officer Massimo Renon.
“Our family is extremely proud of the new JV partnership with an industry leader like Marcolin Group, making us very excited to represent its leading brand portfolio in Mexico,” said Moendi founder Mario Goldwasser. “Thanks to the common business vision which is the pillar of our partnership, we will work together to enhance Marcolin Group’s market share in our country.”
Marcolin, which in 2017 sold about 14 million eyeglasses, produces and distributes eyewear collections under licensing agreements for brands ranging from Tom Ford, Balenciaga and Moncler to Ermenegildo Zegna, Tod’s, Emilio Pucci and Dsquared2.

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Van Cleef & Arpels Brings Art Deco Items From Aga Khan Royals to Paris

PARIS — Van Cleef & Arpels has brought a collection of intricate, gem-encrusted boxes from the Art Deco era to L’École, the School of Jewelry Arts in Paris, in the house’s latest effort to spread appreciation of its luxury trade among the broader public.
The exhibit, which runs from April 4 to 25, shows how the period’s most skilled jewelers blended Eastern and Western influences to make refined vanity cases for a generation that reveled in freedom.
Signed by Lacloche Frères, Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, among others, they were gifts from Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan to his wife Princess Catherine, marking life passages over a nearly 30-year stretch. About half of the 100 pieces in the collection are being shown on this leg, the second of its trans-Atlantic tour.
It follows a stop at the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum in New York, where they were part of a larger exhibit centered on the American jazz age.
Many of the pieces were fashioned just a stone’s throw from the show, on the Place Vendôme.
“It’s magic to have all these houses of the Place Vendôme here — both the existing ones and those that disappeared — returning to their source,” said Nicolas Luchsinger,

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Scotch & Soda to Add Footwear

Scotch & Soda is getting into the footwear business.
The brand has signed a long-term licensing deal with HS Footwear GmbH, a subsidiary of Hamm Market Solutions GmbH & Co. KG in Osnabrück, Germany, for the international distribution of footwear. Scotch & Soda footwear will launch for spring 2019.
“The new Scotch & Soda Footwear collection is fully in line with the unique characteristics of the brand,” said Moritz, Hamm, managing director of Hamm Market Solutions. “We’re inspired by the world and curated by Amsterdam. This mindset enables us to develop a collection which will represent cool and edgy style looks for ladies and men. The utilized high-quality materials will be combined with special washings, handcrafted treatments and details.”
Dirk-Jan Stoppelenburg, chief executive officer of Scotch & Soda, said Hamm “understands our love of authentic craft and attention to detail. Our previous, one-off footwear styles were met with great enthusiasm, and we look forward to the same response for what will be a comprehensive footwear lineup.”
The collection will be shown to footwear stores, department stores and other authorized dealers in June.

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Heritage Leather Goods Brand Létrange Relaunches

PARIS — Paris has a new reawakened heritage luxury leather goods brands in its midst: Létrange — with seventh-generation family member Sébastien Létrange behind the reboot.
Overseeing the artistic direction of the brand is Mathias Jaquemet, the former senior bag designer at Christian Dior Couture.
The company’s debut collection has entered the Galeries Lafayette Haussmann store here on exclusive.
Létrange was founded in 1838 by Auguste Lespiaut, a saddler at the former stables of the Palais du Louvre, and at one time was bigger than Hermès in size, according to its reviver.
As the company grew, the range of goods, as a supplier to the French army and the post office among other diverse clients, spanned hunting and travel accessories and molded leather bicycle and photography equipment, said the entrepreneur during an interview at the brand’s atelier in the eastern Paris suburb of Montreuil. The firm at its height had a Parisian workshop and sprawling factory in Montargis in the Loiret region. “At one point the company had grown so big there were plans to enter the stock exchange, but then World War I hit,” said Létrange.
Over its history the firm moved from being a leather goods specialist to a high-end shirtmaker for clients

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Watchmakers Show Off Survival Tools for an Apple Age at Baselworld

BASEL, Switzerland — Acclimating to life with an 800-pound gorilla, watchmakers at Baselworld showed they are finding their footing by fine-tuning strategies to survive in territory invaded by Apple.
A focus on mechanical skills underpinned the wide range of responses to competition from the Apple Watch — similar to the Swiss watch industry’s method for weathering the onslaught of quartz timepieces in the Eighties. High-end players such as Breguet, Patek Philippe and Bulgari continue to build on their luxury heritage and offered delicate chiming minute repeaters while more accessible brands emphasized affordability, with Tissot offering automatic watches in cheaper price ranges.
A growing number of brands are pushing into the connected watch business themselves and Hublot marked its splashy entrance into the field by hosting a soccer game with star sports figures including Diego Maradona and Usain Bolt to introduce its soccer-themed Big Bang referee watch. The brand plans to limit connected watches to special partnerships.
Watchmakers also continue to home in on specific technologies to maintain relevance. Citizen, the Japanese light-power specialist, celebrated its 100th anniversary with a sapphire crystal pocket watch called the Calibre 0100, reaching new levels of accuracy through internal mechanisms — more or less a second over a year. The concept

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Newness in Accessories Coming From Young Designers, Buyers Say

Accessories for fall continue many of the same trends as the past few seasons, while displaying the category’s pricing evolution, buyers said.
Shoes exhibited similar commercial trends to those introduced for spring, including boots and party shoes, while handbags displayed the most innovation within the strengthening midtier market — where new brands offer high-quality, fashion-forward designs at retail prices averaging $300 to $900.
“We definitely saw that the trends weren’t as call-out has they have been in previous seasons,” said Cassie Smart, Matchesfashion.com’s buying manager for shoes and handbags, of the fall season. “They’ve become quite diluted and transitional from spring 2018. So we are still seeing the return to the boot and emotional glamour shoes.”
Boots, according to Moda Operandi’s vice president for nonapparel, Jodi Kaplan, “remain a year-round staple for us and are really driving our footwear business.”

Marine Serre RTW Fall 2018
Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Saks Fifth Avenue’s senior vice president and fashion director Roopal Patel, among others, felt that the season’s trend for western boots could prove a big hit. “The big western influence in shoes is great — we saw it at Calvin Klein, at Fendi, at Isabel Marant. It’s a great statement accessory,” she said.
Kaplan noted that sneakers continue to be

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Skira Unveils Book on Gianmaria Buccellati

MILAN — Marking the 10th anniversary of the Gianmaria Buccellati Foundation, Milan-based Skira has published a volume celebrating the career of the Milanese jeweler, who died in March 2015.
Through a series of essays written by experts in the sector and Buccellati’s friends, juxtaposed with a wide range of colorful images, “Treasure of the Foundation — Gianmaria Buccellati” highlights the signature style of the jeweler, who joined the company founded by his father Mario in 1929 and then established his namesake label in 1971.
“Through an incredible gallery of images, this book explores part of Gianmaria Buccellati’s wide production and at the same time gives an overview of his thoughts and of his personality,” said art historian Paola Venturelli, who — during her presentation — shined a light on a series of artworks, called “Precious Objects.” Buccellati started the production of these special pieces, which mainly include precious cups and luxury ornamental items, in 1970, inspired by a visit to the “Medici Treasury” collection exhibited at Florence’s Palazzo Pitti.

“The Treasures of the Gianmaria Buccellati Foundation”
Courtesy Photo

Among them is the “Queen’s Cup,” which Buccellati created in 2002 combining crystal, yellow gold and multicolor sapphires, as well as the 2003 upscale “Great Dame” brooch crafted by the jeweler matching an

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Sneaker Start-up Allbirds Lands in Canada, Eyes U.K., Asian Expansion

TORONTO — Allbirds will break into the Canadian market with the launch Thursday of an English-language web site.
“We’re trying to build the brand by regions,” said cofounder Joey Zwillinger, who teamed with former New Zealand World Cup soccer player Tim Brown to launch the company in 2016. “The U.K. and Asia present big opportunities. We don’t ship to these areas yet and won’t until we can do it right. But these regions are definitely on our radar.”
Speaking of the new web site, Allbirds.ca, he said, “It’s a three-click buy here. Canadians can expect incredible service from us and rapid delivery.”
Allbirds will also unveil its five-week [email protected] initiative on Friday at Toronto’s Eaton Centre and Nordstrom Pacific Center in Vancouver, where brand newcomers will be able to experience five exclusive styles, as well as a full range of products.
Lastly, a limited-edition gray wool runner embroidered with a red maple leaf will be sold exclusively on Allbirds.ca for $135 Canadian.
Canadian flagships have yet to be revealed, yet Zwillinger remains confident that Allbirds will have a physical presence in Canada within a few months’ time. Vancouver, in fact, could be one of the company’s earliest store locations. “Vancouver is all about the active life

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