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Alexander McQueen RTW Fall 2018

Before her Alexander McQueen show on Monday night, Sarah Burton talked about the various aspects of women’s personalities –strength, fragility, perseverance – and how those aspects flow one into the other. She drew comparisons to nature, always a major touchstone for her. Here, she focused particularly on the metamorphosis through which a cocoon becomes a moth or butterfly, the latter long an important inspiration and symbol for the house of McQueen. Asked whether she had #MeToo in mind while designing the collection, she said, “The McQueen woman has always been powerful. Of course, you’re aware of [#MeToo], it’s in the conversation. It’s important for women to be who they are.”
That notion of speaking to women as “they are” may have impacted Burton’s basic approach to the collection. For all the intensity and lavishness of its butterfly and bug imagery, this was not one of her epic, magical reveries, but rather, a surprisingly retail-friendly runway lineup, with most looks likely to transition directly, sans tweaking. It started with a de-emphasis on magical dresses and and a major focus on feminine tailoring, at times punctuated with a demonstrative sneaker. Burton kept the silhouette powerful but not arch, curvaceous with a broad, sloped

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