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Ermenegildo Zegna Couture Men’s Fall 2018

The show space was striking: a snowy runway set by Swiss artist Thomas Flechtner in a Brutalist university faculty building in Milan’s Université Bocconi designed by Grafton Architects.
But the collection’s strength was in the detail and the process, with Alessandro Sartori plucking from the “natural reserves” of Oasi Zegna, the family’s natural park in northern Italy, to expand the definition of luxury.
“One of [Flechtner’s] works is exactly about a modern vision of snow landscapes….This idea of presenting a juxtaposition of craft and technical, handmade and sharp in a Brutalist architecture to me is the same type of philosophy,” said the designer during a preview of the collection.
A new fabric — Oasi Cashmere — came dipped in natural dyes made from flowers, herbs, wood, leaves and roots, developed by Lanificio Zegna over 12 years and using an entirely chemical-free process involving a multilayer deep dyeing process. A small revolution, producing even fluorescent and black tones. (It ain’t called couture for nothing.)
Experimental fabrics — courtesy of Bonotto SpA, the high-end textile manufacturer that Ermenegildo Zegna Group acquired last year — included a matte cotton and wool-blend corduroy used for jackets, and a new woven leather fabric best showcased on a tennis-bag-style, single-strap backpack.
The innovation

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