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Valentino Pre-Fall 2018

No designer with a functioning business can understate the importance of pre-collections, but many — this pre-fall season in particular — have presented them with little fanfare. The past two months have been a steady drip of standard press days and showroom appointments for editors to peruse the racks. Maybe there’s a model, maybe not. Maybe the label decided against publicizing its collection at all.
At Valentino, where the ateliers churn out collections as vast as they are remarkable like clockwork, minimizing the work is not part of the strategy. The only thing low-key about Pierpaolo Piccioli’s spectacular pre-fall presentation was that it was a presentation, not a proper runway show. He filled three grand, ground-floor salons in the early 20th century James B. Duke mansion on East 78th Street in New York, now home to the New York University Institute of Fine Arts, with a modern heritage lineup. In it, he nimbly navigated the worlds of Valentino then and now, while displaying his philosophy on running a luxury house with deep history in today’s complex, casual and attention-deficit world.
“At this moment when everything is confusing with the fastness of information, I think it’s important to stay in your own roots,” said Piccioli

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